Quoted from indypinhead:Does anyone know where I can get the spot target face like the one in the Rickwh's post but in RED
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1761
This one should be close in size.....
Quoted from indypinhead:Does anyone know where I can get the spot target face like the one in the Rickwh's post but in RED
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1761
This one should be close in size.....
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Those are the original batteries and I am willing to bet that the number of plays is accurate. They didn't keep shipping out all TSPP with the same code. they made the game for many years, and as new code came out, they shipped the game with that code.
That is actually a very clean/low use TSPP. Nice find...
Thanks! I think i was very lucky as well. Im gonna change out the batteries tonight. No need to zip tie them? I guess folding the head may make them pop out... I will definitely be moving them off the board or doing the nvram thing. Ive never messed with a board before though so not sure the best way to handle that.
But getting new batteries in there is def needed soon. Thats something u do with the game powered on right? So it doesnt loose the settings?
Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for everyones feedback!
Quoted from Rickwh:Thanks! I think i was very lucky as well. Im gonna change out the batteries tonight. No need to zip tie them? I guess folding the head may make them pop out... I will definitely be moving them off the board or doing the nvram thing. Ive never messed with a board before though so not sure the best way to handle that.
But getting new batteries in there is def needed soon. Thats something u do with the game powered on right? So it doesnt loose the settings?
Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for everyones feedback!
Yeah, just clip the zip, and swap them out. If you leave the game on, you wont lose any settings, but if you are going to 5.0 it isn't going to matter anyways.
Yours is very low plays, that shooter lane wears pretty much instantly. I believe there is a shooter lane protector you can get to prevent further wear.
You are going to want to get mylar for the flipper buttons and the start button. Those wear really quickly, even in home use.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Those are the original batteries and I am willing to bet that the number of plays is accurate. They didn't keep shipping out all TSPP with the same code. they made the game for many years, and as new code came out, they shipped the game with that code.
That is actually a very clean/low use TSPP. Nice find...
Good point! I stand corrected.
Quoted from shimoda:Mine has the same clip - strange. I'm jealous yours came with a manual. I purchased a goodie bag and still need to order a manual. TSPP ColorDMD will be here soon!
The clip is there to stop the ball getting stuck there on the plastic - cheap option during manufacture. I removed mine and haven't had a problem over the past 5 years.
Quoted from Rickwh:The kwikemart plastic with a shake and a hotdog on mine has a plastic clip on it like it would hold a wire. I dont see that on other pics of this machine. Anyone else see this before?
20150126_070249.jpg 160 KB
Had the same clip on mine. Took it off. Have noticed no difference in gameplay.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Yeah, just clip the zip, and swap them out. If you leave the game on, you wont lose any settings, but if you are going to 5.0 it isn't going to matter anyways.
Yours is very low plays, that shooter lane wears pretty much instantly. I believe there is a shooter lane protector you can get to prevent further wear.
You are going to want to get mylar for the flipper buttons and the start button. Those wear really quickly, even in home use.
On this board, the solder points for the battery holder on the right. So if you put AA's in, all the weight is on the solder points on the right side. I'm sure that's why that have that clip with the zip tie going through.
changed out the batteries. one of them did have some blue fuzzy "acid" on the negative end of it. After removing the batteries there was some of that stuff on the springs of the batter holder. I used a qtip and some vinegar to wipe/clean it off (saw that tip on youtube). Installed new batteries and all is good.
Hardest part was getting that damn stiff zip tie off. cutting it was no prob, but it was so stiff that it wouldn't feed back out through the slots in the board so I could get it out. had to loosen to of the grounding screws to allow some space for it to come out.
adjusted the switch on the upper right VUK as sometimes it would wait on ball search to notice a ball in there and kick it out. Got two balls in there tonight and man did it have a time trying to get that out.
Quoted from DocRotCod:On this board, the solder points for the battery holder on the right. So if you put AA's in, all the weight is on the solder points on the right side. I'm sure that's why that have that clip with the zip tie going through.
That is true I did notice that the battery holder was only mounted on two points on the right hand side.
I figure its ok for now as I'll put the remote battery holder in soon.
Quoted from Rickwh:changed out the batteries. one of them did have some blue fuzzy "acid" on the negative end of it. After removing the batteries there was some of that stuff on the springs of the batter holder. I used a qtip and some vinegar to wipe/clean it off (saw that tip on youtube). Installed new batteries and all is good.
Hardest part was getting that damn stiff zip tie off. cutting it was no prob, but it was so stiff that it wouldn't feed back out through the slots in the board so I could get it out. had to loosen to of the grounding screws to allow some space for it to come out.
adjusted the switch on the upper right VUK as sometimes it would wait on ball search to notice a ball in there and kick it out. Got two balls in there tonight and man did it have a time trying to get that out.
Be careful! I just did this on my LOTR. It had some corrosion on the terminal and the diode below it. Otherwise it looked clean. After further investigation it has completely rotten and eaten the legs of the socket where the ram chip is. Had to replace the socket. Make sure it did not go any further down.
Quoted from DocRotCod:Be careful! I just did this on my LOTR. It had some corrosion on the terminal and the diode below it. Otherwise it looked clean. After further investigation it has completely rotten and eaten the legs of the socket where the ram chip is. Had to replace the socket. Make sure it did not go any further down.
Took your advice. Completely removed the cpu board from the machine and inspected it front and back. Even gently lifted the battery holder to look between it and the board. There is nothing corroded or anything at all. Everything looks clean. Glad it wasnt messed up for sure.
Buttoned it back up and even reinstalled a zip tie to hold my batteries in place and keep the weight of the batteries from stressing the two mounts/solder points to the board.
Thanks everyone!
Quoted from Rickwh:Took your advice. Completely removed the cpu board from the machine and inspected it front and back. Even gently lifted the battery holder to look between it and the board. There is nothing corroded or anything at all. Everything looks clean. Glad it wasnt messed up for sure.
Buttoned it back up and even reinstalled a zip tie to hold my batteries in place and keep the weight of the batteries from stressing the two mounts/solder points to the board.
Thanks everyone!
Good call. Better to be safe for sure. Those boards aren't cheap!
Quoted from DocRotCod:Good call. Better to be safe for sure. Those boards aren't cheap!
Best of all it worked when i put it back together again... Haha. First time handling a pinball board.
Is it normal for the coil thats in the tv on the upper playfield to rattle something awful when it is activated? It seems to work just fine, but makes a horrible sound. Is there a fix for this?
Quoted from Rickwh:Is it normal for the coil thats in the tv on the upper playfield to rattle something awful when it is activated? It seems to work just fine, but makes a horrible sound. Is there a fix for this?
Mine does this as well. Coil stop?
Quoted from ralphwiggum:If you leave the game on, you wont lose any settings, but if you are going to 5.0 it isn't going to matter anyways.
Questions, i need to go from 4.0 to 5.0
best place to buy the updated ROMS?
Also, will i lose high scores when doing the switch?
Quoted from arcadenerd925:Questions, i need to go from 4.0 to 5.0
best place to buy the updated ROMS?
Also, will i lose high scores when doing the switch?
A local pinsider burned them for me, so I can't make a recommendation, but can confirm that swapping them out will reset everything. Scores, settings, play counts, etc.
google john wart roms. you will lose your high scores and all other settings, including the free play setting
Very nice vid. Noticed your Itchy and Scratchy kicks out to the right flipper. Mine sends it to the left. What's "correct"?
Quoted from JeffA:Very nice vid. Noticed your Itchy and Scratchy kicks out to the right flipper. Mine sends it to the left. What's "correct"?
Left.....
Quoted from papazit1963:A little fun with my Gopro and TSPP. A bit long, so feel free to fast forward..
» YouTube video
Mike
Cool vid....
One thing I noticed.... Your flippers are out of alignment. On Sterns, the holes in the playfield go to the tip of the flipper. TSPP is already hard enough, no need to make it harder
Quoted from JeffA:Very nice vid. Noticed your Itchy and Scratchy kicks out to the right flipper. Mine sends it to the left. What's "correct"?
Left
Quoted from JeffA:Very nice vid. Noticed your Itchy and Scratchy kicks out to the right flipper. Mine sends it to the left. What's "correct"?
I say anywhere but between the flippers is good. I hate when that happens!
Mike
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Cool vid....
One thing I noticed.... Your flippers are out of alignment. On Sterns, the holes in the playfield go to the tip of the flipper. TSPP is already hard enough, no need to make it harder
Really? I just line them up for a straight ball roll of the metal guide. I'll look at them again tonight. Thanks and yes this pin is tough. But really fun!
Mike
Quoted from JeffA:Very nice vid. Noticed your Itchy and Scratchy kicks out to the right flipper. Mine sends it to the left. What's "correct"?
Mine hits the left flipper, and roughly 50% of the time will bounce right back to the I&S hole before the drops pop back up. A pretty easy way to start the first I&S multiball. And subsequently annoying thereafter.
Quoted from J_Striker:mine shoots like a freaking bullet to the left flipper
Yeah, they are supposed to..... I use this kickout shot to practice my live catches. The thing comes out like a rocket.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Yeah, they are supposed to..... I use this kickout shot to practice my live catches. The thing comes out like a rocket.
Same here, i always try catching the ball.
Was playing mine last night and the I&S hole has been shooting out almost straight left to where it hits the left sling or lower cooling tower. Don't really mind it for now but will probably adjust it; as the I&S hole isn't registering right away when a ball enters. Has to go through ball search once or twice before it'll "take".
Quoted from animesuperj:Was playing mine last night and the I&S hole has been shooting out almost straight left to where it hits the left sling or lower cooling tower. Don't really mind it for now but will probably adjust it; as the I&S hole isn't registering right away when a ball enters. Has to go through ball search once or twice before it'll "take".
What a piece of crap.... I would seriously think about selling it for more rare arcade titles that are marginally fun to play and weigh a metric shit ton.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:What a piece of crap.... I would seriously think about selling it for more rare arcade titles that are marginally fun to play and weigh a metric shit ton.
I really should just call whoever sold me this piece of junk. I'm pretty sure it came with a lifetime warranty since he had so much free time.
other than the VUK fork switches, and the couch rollover switches... any other switches that i should stock in the ole toolbox for one something else breaks down?
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:Mine hits the left flipper, and roughly 50% of the time will bounce right back to the I&S hole before the drops pop back up.
Exactly the same for my TSPP too!
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:Mine hits the left flipper, and roughly 50% of the time will bounce right back to the I&S hole before the drops pop back up. A pretty easy way to start the first I&S multiball. And subsequently annoying thereafter.
+2! I couldn't agree more that it is subsequently annoying thereafter.
Quoted from jalkelly:+2! I couldn't agree more that it is subsequently annoying thereafter.
Well, I think there's a setting that makes it possible to start the subsequent I&S multiballs off of those hits, but I try to keep things at stock settings.
Probably why I've gotten to Scratchy's Revenge only once, but so be it. It's not like I'm ever going to wizard mode this thing anyway.,
Edit - make that twice. Home from work - played a few games and get further than I've ever gotten. Alien Invasion for the first time - fun and frantic. Got up to 4 balls but kept missing the couch lock shot. Got to Secret Stash - don't remember how many I collected but don't think I finished. Scratchy's revenge again, and Daredevil mania. Had the 2x scoring lights glowing for mystery spot when the game ended. Still nowhere near the wizard mode since I'm terrible at super jackpots (had 2) but a decent run. Still only scored a meager 122 million.
Am I right in thinking that the lights under the characters in the car on the playfield light up as you finish the requirements for the wizard mode? If so, does anyone know which ones correspond to which - or do they just light in order as you complete them?
Quoted from Rickwh:Is it normal for the coil thats in the tv on the upper playfield to rattle something awful when it is activated? It seems to work just fine, but makes a horrible sound. Is there a fix for this?
I dunno if id call the a fix, but it did cut down on the rattle quite a bit.
So the part thats rattling is i guess what youd call the coil stop in the TV? From the pictures i see online and looking at the manual, there is a metal piece of the TV frame where the back side of the coil goes. that piece of metal rattled on my mavchine to make the noise..
To fix, i took a piece of dead ball pinball foam and stuck it on top of the tv where the coil stop is. Then i took a small zip tie and wrapped it around the coil and attempted to put aome force down on the metal thing so that it wound rattel
Played a few games with the glass for and you cant hear that annoying rattle anymore.
Quoted from Frankenator:I noticed on my friend's TSPP the machine was having the same "issue" as mine with the qwik-e mart rollover switch not registering on fast shots (which is most frustrating during a hurry up). A slow shot will register I've messed with bending the switch angle I might just replace it does anyone else have that problem?
Sorry if i missed the solution to this problem, but im having the same issue. Well actually mine seems worse. Fast or slow, shots going clock-wise around the quickymart loop seem to not register. But counter clockwise ones are a bit more likely to register.
In switc test my switch will register with my finger, but not likely wih the ball (fast or slow). On the underside the switch rollover wire isnt sitting up against the playfield on the opposite side of the switch. Others do have the end of the rollover wire pressed up againt the playfield. I did attempt to bend the rollover arm, but it didnt seem to help (maybe a little).
Is it just something that fails on TSPP. Seems a few peeps had same issue. Looks like ill be ordering me a couple of these soon.
Wondering if anyone else has had issues with the ground straps that are attached to the display board getting sandwiched against the power driver board and causing issues? If so, has anyone come up with "strap management solution" that I could copy? I find it difficult to make sure this is not happening when I'm closing up the head, and I think it could be causing reset issues. Any info appreciated.
Quoted from aahgo:Wondering if anyone else has had issues with the ground straps that are attached to the display board getting sandwiched against the power driver board and causing issues? If so, has anyone come up with "strap management solution" that I could copy? I find it difficult to make sure this is not happening when I'm closing up the head, and I think it could be causing reset issues. Any info appreciated.
I haven't heard of this causing an issue. Almost every single reset issue on these whitestars has been the connectors.... the big one on the top of the driver board and the smaller one on the bottom of the CPU board. I would reseat those before going too much further.
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:So has everyone ordered the colorDMD for TSPP yet since color will be available 13th Feb 2015?
Didn't know it was coming out, but I know where part of my tax return is going!
Quoted from animesuperj:Didn't know it was coming out, but I know where part of my tax return is going!
I remember the days of getting tax returns
Quoted from animesuperj:Didn't know it was coming out, but I know where part of my tax return is going!
You can pre-order now. Mine already shipped and will prob be here tomorrow. The code can be added once its added to the site the 13th.
My Tax return is always huge. But it always has a negative (-) symbol in front of it...
Quoted from ralphwiggum:I haven't heard of this causing an issue. Almost every single reset issue on these whitestars has been the connectors.... the big one on the top of the driver board and the smaller one on the bottom of the CPU board. I would reseat those before going too much further.
I guess I was thinking the straps could be pressing on the bottom connector, or even the Bridge rectifier itself and might cause the problem. I'm going to run some games through it tonight with the display board out and see if I can force a reset.
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:So has everyone ordered the colorDMD for TSPP yet since color will be available 13th Feb 2015?
I just installed mine Wait till you install yours, huge improvement even without the color.
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:You can pre-order now. Mine already shipped and will prob be here tomorrow. The code can be added once its added to the site the 13th.
My Tax return is always huge. But it always has a negative (-) symbol in front of it...
HA, yeah, I probably should adjust my withholdings so it evens out a bit. Don't mind the refund, though.
Can't wait to get mine in, I needed a new dmd for it anyway. The couple videos out look pretty good with it installed.
Quoted from DocRotCod:I remember the days of getting tax returns
Me too...but barely....been a long time ago....I love owning a Company, I love owning a Company, (repeat until I either believe, or just don't care anymore)....
Quoted from MK6PIN:Me too...but barely....been a long time ago....I love owning a Company, I love owning a Company, (repeat until I either believe, or just don't care anymore)....
It's great, but the stress is a bitch. Especially when the compliancy auditor walks in your front door like they did last week. Oh well we did fine.
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