It does have 5 flippers so being a little louder is expected

Regarding the clunk…. The flippers are loud no doubt. I’m have wondered if putting some sound deadening foam in the cab would help take some of the edge off. So one also made a mod so that the upper playfield flippers only flip when the ball is up there…. But I read concerns that it may not be able to track it all the time. Someone else may be able to chime in…… but that would definitely reduce the noise a bit.

Played a ton last night celebrating new years with the fam. Had a couple games playing with my little one (hes just about to turn 2). So awesome seeing him more and more interested in the silver ball.

Hey all. Question for those with the color DMD mod. From the ones I’ve seen for TSPP, the individual dots in the art are lost and everything is filled in with solid colors. In other games (most others) the dots are preserved but just colored. I really prefer the latter look. Just wondering is this a setting that can be adjusted in the mod for TSPP?

Yes, there are settings for the lcd colordmd that can make it look like a cartoon or with dots.

I see, so it sounds like all the mods can be either way, and it doesn't depend on the game. Thanks.

My TSPP restoration is coming along, backbox is now done, onto the cabinet!

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Looks great! What decals are you using?

I finally got around to doing the "hum fix." It was a piece of cake, and sounds so much better. Why did I wait?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-speaker-humbuzz-fixed

These were the parts I used... no problems.

Clips: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007XRCLTG
Pots: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01A0VH5L0

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Using the alternative pink donut decals from Retro Refurbs as I plan a pink donut theme throughout

Make sure you post pics when it's done

Can someone explain to me what the EOS switch on the flipper does on these machines (and all Sterns)? I realize mine wasn't set correctly and opening and I don't see a difference in performance of the flipper.

Certainly will! Lot to go yet lol

I believe it switches it from high power to low power. You'll eventually burn up the coil and shrink the coil sleeve if you don't fix it.

OK I get it now. Thanks. I already fixed it. The Williams machines have the 2 coils in 1 (3 wire coils) to do just that but Stern went about it differently by lowering the voltage. That is where I was confused. I figured if the button was held, the CPU would know and lower the voltage.

Interesting that the upper flipper doesn't have the EOS....guess it's a weaker coil.

On Stern games (and all Sega, and later DE games with the TY-FFASI flipper board), the electronics re-kick the flipper (hard) when the EOS switch is opened and the flipper button is being held. That is, there's a timed initial hard kick, followed by the "hold" voltage; if the EOS switch indicates the flipper is not at the end of its stroke, the electronics will re-apply the oomph.

This fixes an issue where there's a kicker that fires the ball at the flipper (which is why they added this switch on DE Jurassic Park). If this switch is not working, a fast-moving ball will drop the flipper, and it will rise slowly if at all, because the electronics are only applying the hold voltage. (if I got the operation of the EOS switch backwards, my point stands, I just don't remember which state is normal.)

For all of the upper flippers on Simpsons, there is no EOS switch, and that's fine, since those flippers are not likely to get held up and face fast-moving balls.

Thanks for this explanation. Makes sense now!

On my tmnt I was able to turn down the power on my flippers and ball launch (from the trough). Is that possible on tspp? If so, I’m not seeing the adjustment. My ball launch is ejecting really hard. I’m still on the original software.

Thanks

It's all coils or nothing. On some older Sterns where you are not able to adjust individual coils, I change the power to "low" instead of "normal". Sometimes this works and sometimes this doesn't. On one of my machines it didn't have enough power to put a ball in the shooter lane. You can try experimenting. This adjustment is primarily used if you have house voltage that is either too low or high. (someone can correct me if I'm wrong here)

I have a Homer head that will not come off. I’ve worked on a couple in the past. Take the rubber off and slide him up. I know his head sits in the lower bracket. Is there anything I’m missing? FYI, it’s never been removed before.

Mine was super tight also.
I had to just muscle it off.

Matt.

I was pulling up on it and lightly tapping down with a hammer. Looks like the hole in the head is smaller than the stem. I had to stop trying

Mine was also very tight. Use some muscle and wiggle the head through the shaft at the top of the head. You’ll get it

Mine was the same. Scary to use so much force. It will come off though.

Just to pile on, mine was the same way when I stripped down the PF. Just a little extra will do the trick.

Ok, thx for the support guys. I’ll make another attempt.

After months of searching I was finally able to track down the donut shooter!

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Johnbeatle any more of those where you found it? I've been looking forever as well.

Bump, any tips on how to remedy this? It's so random, in modes or goes hours/even a day or two with no issues then no sound. I searched the forum and didn't see anything. TIA.

Picking up a stock TSPP and wanted to replace the battery holder. I saw an NVRAM on pinballlife.com for 39.99. Anything else i should consider?

Maybe make sure it has the updated 5.0 rom and display rom. If doing led conversion spend the money on the OCD board. It’s well worth it. Also get cliffys for the ramps

Just actually purchased the full LED kit from Comet with the OCD board. Thanks for the reminder on cliffys

I did Ice Blue on the hurry ups. It definitely makes them stand out better. I did pink on all the orange inserts (extra ball & shoot again) everything else was color matched. Game really looks great with Leds

I would buy it directly as I believe its quite a bit cheaper. I bought mine about a year ago and if I'm not mistaken it was around $20

https://www.pinitech.com/products/cat_nvram.php

This is what I was looking for thanks. While I’m here, any other “must have” mods for TSPP?

ColorDMD!

Theres some cool and creative mods out there, but the ones that are really nice to have are color dmd, pin sound + board/speakers, side art or mirrored blades, and Cliffy protectors.

Pinsound white star board

The "hum fix" mod is well worth doing if you aren't switching sound systems. It's cheap, easy, and effective.

I am not a fan of the side art I have seen for most games, but I think it looks pretty good on this one.

Be sure to at least get the minimal Cliffy set which includes the garage ramp protector.

(I hate to say it but I don't like any of the added figures people often add to the game. I also don't like new sound mixes, for me part of the fun is the nostalgia of the game sounding like it did while it was growing on me.)

I recently picked up a TSPP and I highly recommend this! Fairly easy to do, if you can solder. Removes the overall hum which is pretty loud in a home setup.

Also a great recommendation. Just a heads-up, but Cliffy's are back ordered right now, so it might be a matter of months before you get these.

As said before, ColorDMD looks great here. LED OCD is kind of a requirement with LEDs. I also would recommend not getting non-ghosting bulbs. The comet retro bulbs work fantastically paired up with the OCD board.

The nuclear side rails at pinball life might also be a good idea. The cabinet is pretty prone to wear around the flipper buttons.

I recently ordered Cliffys for my TSPP and got them in 3-4 weeks... not too bad. He'll tell ya what to expect.

Oh, good point. At a minimum you need the clear protective stickers.

https://www.pinballlife.com/pinguard-flipper-button-wear-protector-set.html

And if you can't it's a good way to get started. You can build it as a clip-on so you don't solder on to the board. All you have to solder is the pot legs to the clips, which is hard to screw up.

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I am thinking about getting a topper. I have seen two of them out there that I am considering...
1. The old DE topper ("Play pinball man")
2. The TiltTopper one located here https://tilttopper.com/shop/ols/products/the-simpsons-pinball-topper

Does anyone have experience with #1? How do you attach it? I just see those holes. Do I need to get something to hold it up. I've never installed a topper so I might be missing something obvious. Anybody get #2? Would l love to hear what you think about it. Seems to match the translite really well.

i have the 1st one from DE. i used velcro and some L shape braket but it doesnt hold well at the moment.

i need to come up with something better.

Pinsound follow-up from my previous post a page back.

I mentioned that I did not think the sub was working….it wasn’t… if you have an external sub hooked up via clips to the internal sub, neither of the subs has any sound. I disconnected the Polk subwoofer and the internal sub just came to life…. Everything sounds so good! And the equalizer adjustments on the pinsound plus board make it easy to tweak the sound to your liking.

Killer mod. Can’t recommend it enough.

Anyone know why the external sub doesn’t work with pinsound that way ? I think I can add it back in via the RCA connection….just curious why the old way no longer works.

Just started my LED conversion and I'm currently working on the GI. Is the best way to access these lights underneath the ramp by entirely removing it? Or is there something simpler. First timer here

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Hi I removed the ramp to change them. Having said that… I do not like them led’d. I would leave them incandescent. I have comet sunlight in the rest of my GI. But under that ramp. I liked the original bulbs better. The led’s are just too visible as bulbs as opposed to just brightening it if that makes sense.

You know, I was wondering this. Maybe I'll finish the rest off and decide at the end. Thanks for saving me the headache

I put in sunlight frosted from under the playfield in that area. I used green frosted behind the lock targets because the sunlight were too bright. All Comet sunlight clear under the playfield. Mostly frosted sunlight above the playfield.