(Topic ID: 50801)

The Simpsons Pinball Party (TSPP) Owners Club..... Members Only!!!

By kwiKimart

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 41 hours ago by allsportdvd
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There are 7,278 posts in this topic. You are on page 121 of 146.
#6001 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Homer head is really tight. I thought mine was going to break. It did not. I put in a LED flasher.
The clip is probably to stop a ball trap. Mine has the clip also.

The clip being there to prevent a ball trap has been the general concensous over the years. I've never heard anyone come up with a better reason. Maybe early, early production games don't have it?

#6002 2 years ago

Just finished our 11 piece Protector Set for TSPP. Here's a link to my site page.
Thanks
https://www.etsy.com/your/shops/ColorGuardProtectors/tools/listings/1096126279?ref=listing_card_body&from_page=/your/listings

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#6003 2 years ago

I've problems with the link.
Can't even find the article with the search function.

#6004 2 years ago

45k today! Best score ever so far hehe

I lighted all the board but couldn’t figure out how to start alien invasion?

Only got one extra ball too

#6005 2 years ago
Quoted from Paseb:

45k today! Best score ever so far hehe
I lighted all the board but couldn’t figure out how to start alien invasion?
Only got one extra ball too

Start all of the modes and the board will have all its lights flashing in a pattern, shoot the couch to start AI.

#6006 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Start all of the modes and the board will have all its lights flashing in a pattern, shoot the couch to start AI.

I think you just have to shoot the TV loop to start it, right?

#6007 2 years ago
Quoted from Biju:

I think you just have to shoot the TV loop to start it, right?

Yes. Shoot the tv to start AI

#6008 2 years ago
Quoted from Biju:

I think you just have to shoot the TV loop to start it, right?

Sorry, yes, tv.

#6009 2 years ago

thanks guys, i will try again

it was my 1st time lighting all the missions

#6010 2 years ago

Anyone installed a Trough Lighting Kit on his tspp?

I have sunlight led in my game so im assuming it would be best to get the same color for the trough?

Do you get a 4in or 8in matrix?

Frosted or clear?

Alligator clip is the best option?

Thx

#6011 2 years ago

Man I didn’t realize how much a color dmd helps this particular game out , my Simpsons like
“Pops” now. A must have for TSPP

#6012 2 years ago
Quoted from Paseb:

Anyone installed a Trough Lighting Kit on his tspp?
I have sunlight led in my game so im assuming it would be best to get the same color for the trough?
Do you get a 4in or 8in matrix?
Frosted or clear?
Alligator clip is the best option?
Thx

Use a Frosted GI Bulb with a Tap, if you can, over clips.
You might set any additional lighting on the apron, trough, or elsewhere to your taste.
Frosted everything, for diffusion.
Swinks has a 3D printed trough Holder, others have this premade, in their own way.

#6013 2 years ago

My Comic Book guy is tremendously discolored. There are may different versions from PLAYMATES on ebay. For those that have replaced yours, what should I be looking for? Series 15? Series 20?

Also, do these replacements have holes already drilled in the bottom? The original comic book guys look like they came drilled with the figurine.

Any suggestions welcomed

#6014 2 years ago

I’ve had this game for a couple weeks now.

Got what I consider to be a great deal on it at $4800, with only 3 downsides: Flipper button cabinet decal wear, start button cabinet decal wear, and no back box key.

I know the seller fairly well and trusted him that there would be no surprises in the back box. Even though I knew the batteries were seemingly fine as the game kept score memory, my skepticism prevailed and I got my security torx bit set and opened th sucker up.

Though not converted to NVRam, he did remove the battery case from the board and it was wrapped in electrical tape on the side wall. No corrosion, but the batteries were dated 2014 as year of manufacture.

Also, apparently one of the boards doesn’t match the serial number of the others. I know I’m only the 3rd owner of this machine and that it was routed through a Retro Video Game store for about 10 years. Have no intention to ever sell, as it’s the crown jewel of my collection.

Having said all that, I have 4 questions:

1. ColorDMD: LCD or LED or not at all?

2. Mirror Blades: Yay/Nay?

3. How essential is NVRam conversion?

4. If game seems to work and play perfectly fine, should I just ignore the fact that one board was replaced or should I dig deeper in case it might be an issue in the future (I.e. find out why, etc).

Thrilled to be a SPP club member!

#6015 2 years ago
Quoted from prl867:

I’ve had this game for a couple weeks now.
Got what I consider to be a great deal on it at $4800, with only 3 downsides: Flipper button cabinet decal wear, start button cabinet decal wear, and no back box key.
I know the seller fairly well and trusted him that there would be no surprises in the back box. Even though I knew the batteries were seemingly fine as the game kept score memory, my skepticism prevailed and I got my security torx bit set and opened th sucker up.
Though not converted to NVRam, he did remove the battery case from the board and it was wrapped in electrical tape on the side wall. No corrosion, but the batteries were dated 2014 as year of manufacture.
Also, apparently one of the boards doesn’t match the serial number of the others. I know I’m only the 3rd owner of this machine and that it was routed through a Retro Video Game store for about 10 years. Have no intention to ever sell, as it’s the crown jewel of my collection.
Having said all that, I have 4 questions:
1. ColorDMD: LCD or LED or not at all?
2. Mirror Blades: Yay/Nay?
3. How essential is NVRam conversion?
4. If game seems to work and play perfectly fine, should I just ignore the fact that one board was replaced or should I dig deeper in case it might be an issue in the future (I.e. find out why, etc).
Thrilled to be a SPP club member!

Boards go bad. No biggie.
ColorDMD yes.

#6016 2 years ago

Definitely get a colour DMD and nvram.

Mirror blades are really a personal preference.

Quoted from prl867:

I’ve had this game for a couple weeks now.
Got what I consider to be a great deal on it at $4800, with only 3 downsides: Flipper button cabinet decal wear, start button cabinet decal wear, and no back box key.
I know the seller fairly well and trusted him that there would be no surprises in the back box. Even though I knew the batteries were seemingly fine as the game kept score memory, my skepticism prevailed and I got my security torx bit set and opened th sucker up.
Though not converted to NVRam, he did remove the battery case from the board and it was wrapped in electrical tape on the side wall. No corrosion, but the batteries were dated 2014 as year of manufacture.
Also, apparently one of the boards doesn’t match the serial number of the others. I know I’m only the 3rd owner of this machine and that it was routed through a Retro Video Game store for about 10 years. Have no intention to ever sell, as it’s the crown jewel of my collection.
Having said all that, I have 4 questions:
1. ColorDMD: LCD or LED or not at all?
2. Mirror Blades: Yay/Nay?
3. How essential is NVRam conversion?
4. If game seems to work and play perfectly fine, should I just ignore the fact that one board was replaced or should I dig deeper in case it might be an issue in the future (I.e. find out why, etc).
Thrilled to be a SPP club member!

#6017 2 years ago
Quoted from prl867:

I’ve had this game for a couple weeks now.
Got what I consider to be a great deal on it at $4800, with only 3 downsides: Flipper button cabinet decal wear, start button cabinet decal wear, and no back box key.
I know the seller fairly well and trusted him that there would be no surprises in the back box. Even though I knew the batteries were seemingly fine as the game kept score memory, my skepticism prevailed and I got my security torx bit set and opened th sucker up.
Though not converted to NVRam, he did remove the battery case from the board and it was wrapped in electrical tape on the side wall. No corrosion, but the batteries were dated 2014 as year of manufacture.
Also, apparently one of the boards doesn’t match the serial number of the others. I know I’m only the 3rd owner of this machine and that it was routed through a Retro Video Game store for about 10 years. Have no intention to ever sell, as it’s the crown jewel of my collection.
Having said all that, I have 4 questions:
1. ColorDMD: LCD or LED or not at all?
2. Mirror Blades: Yay/Nay?
3. How essential is NVRam conversion?
4. If game seems to work and play perfectly fine, should I just ignore the fact that one board was replaced or should I dig deeper in case it might be an issue in the future (I.e. find out why, etc).
Thrilled to be a SPP club member!

Another vote yes on ColorDMD and NVRam

#6018 2 years ago

LCD color dmd and side art not mirrors

#6019 2 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

LCD color dmd and side art not mirrors

I'll second this. and cliffys if you don't have 'em installed already...protect those plastic ramps.

#6020 2 years ago

Cliffys, colordmd, LEDs and NVram are a must on this game.

#6021 2 years ago

I’m having some issues with the ball getting stuck on the Cliffy’s outhole protector, anyone else had this problem or have ideas for a solution?

#6022 2 years ago
Quoted from Fez:

I’m having some issues with the ball getting stuck on the Cliffy’s outhole protector, anyone else had this problem or have ideas for a solution?

I did, i move it to the right a little
Problem solved but not 100% protected now

#6023 2 years ago
Quoted from Fez:

I’m having some issues with the ball getting stuck on the Cliffy’s outhole protector, anyone else had this problem or have ideas for a solution?

When ever I use those outhole protectors, I file the edge so the ball can more easily roll up it....still occasionally I still get one...may try moving it over a bit next time the glass is off

#6024 2 years ago

Thank you so much for the opinions and advice!

One more minor one. Why does this pop up in between each ball? I’m in Vegas not UK.

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#6025 2 years ago

And what does it mean? In the UK, there is “Skill only” pinball by law or something?

#6026 2 years ago
Quoted from prl867:Thank you so much for the opinions and advice!
One more minor one. Why does this pop up in between each ball? I’m in Vegas not UK.
[quoted image]

Check to make sure that the dip switch settings are properly set to the US. All should be off, I believe. If that doesn't do it you need a new rom.

#6027 2 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Check to make sure that the dip switch settings are properly set to the US. All should be off, I believe. If that doesn't do it you need a new rom.

Will do. This did not start occurring until I changed the batteries (causing the machine to reset, obv).

I know this machine has always been in the US, and has standard USA voltage. I may have accidentally bumped the dip switches when I was changing the battery pack.

Will check shortly. Thanks again!

#6028 2 years ago

Hi! Finished 2nd part tutorial for TSPP, English subs included.

#6029 2 years ago
Quoted from vbobrusev:

Hi! Finished 2nd part tutorial for TSPP, English subs included.

Those are both outstanding videos. Thorough, easy to follow, and even good production value with your camera angles and ability to showcase different parts of the play field.

I don’t speak Russian, but the English subtitles are easy to follow and spot on.

Thank you for posting!

#6030 2 years ago
Quoted from prl867:

Those are both outstanding videos. Thorough, easy to follow, and even good production value with your camera angles and ability to showcase different parts of the play field.
I don’t speak Russian, but the English subtitles are easy to follow and spot on.
Thank you for posting!

Thank you for your feedback, now I know that subtitles is easy to understand for English audience

#6031 2 years ago

Nvram installed. Couldn’t have been easier.

I went through and changed all coil stops and replaced sleeves. Plunger mechanisms all look great. Ran a business card through the EOS. Playfields waxed.

I am having some difficulty making the couch shot. I can get it up there but sometimes it doesn’t make it up. Maybe my timing isn’t that good or consistent, but is there anything I can do other than what I’ve already done to make that shot a bit easier?

My right upper PF flipper is pointing at the little alignment hole. Anyone have luck setting it a bit in front or behind the hole?

#6032 2 years ago

Found a very old thread where someone put electrical tape around the bushing of the upper right flipper. The thought was if the flipper is loose meaning you can wiggle it, you capsules be losing some power. He added two layers of electrical tape around the plastic bushing so it fits tight in the upper playfield.

I took a 3” piece of tape and cut it in half horizontally and wrapped the two pieces around the bushing. Now there is no play in the area around the bushing. I played one game and think it made a difference. I even got 2 super jackpots in couch mb and scored my highest game over 30 million. Hopefully this will help others

#6033 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Nvram installed. Couldn’t have been easier.
I went through and changed all coil stops and replaced sleeves. Plunger mechanisms all look great. Ran a business card through the EOS. Playfields waxed.
I am having some difficulty making the couch shot. I can get it up there but sometimes it doesn’t make it up. Maybe my timing isn’t that good or consistent, but is there anything I can do other than what I’ve already done to make that shot a bit easier?
My right upper PF flipper is pointing at the little alignment hole. Anyone have luck setting it a bit in front or behind the hole?

I was having trouble with mine awhile back on got some help on this thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/more-power-in-stern-flipper-simpsonspp

#6034 2 years ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

I was having trouble with mine awhile back on got some help on this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/more-power-in-stern-flipper-simpsonspp

Thanks. Good tips in there

#6035 2 years ago

The right upper playfield flipper can bind. There is a long rod from the solenoid to the bat and it can get hung up where it comes close to the right ramp plastic.

#6036 2 years ago
Quoted from WannaTheater:

My Comic Book guy is tremendously discolored. There are may different versions from PLAYMATES on ebay. For those that have replaced yours, what should I be looking for? Series 15? Series 20?
Also, do these replacements have holes already drilled in the bottom? The original comic book guys look like they came drilled with the figurine.
Any suggestions welcomed

The factory Comic Book Guy is the one that comes in the World of Springfield "Comic Book Shop" set. Plenty of good choices for what CBG you have in your machine though. The Green superhero version is popular, and I've got the "Worst Episode Ever" version in mine.

It will not have the hole drilled, but it there's plenty of wiggle room where he is standing. Just size the existing hole and drill a bit into his foot.

#6037 2 years ago

I’m looking for either a set of ramp flaps for the treehouse and moes ramps or maybe even full replacements.

Are these unobtanium now?

#6038 2 years ago
Quoted from zucot:

I’m looking for either a set of ramp flaps for the treehouse and moes ramps or maybe even full replacements.
Are these unobtanium now?

I think Cliffy has them:

http://www.passionforpinball.com/TSPP.htm

I just got some for my Funhouse but didn't get a response through the website but he did respond to a PM here @cliffy.

#6039 2 years ago

I have the protectors installed. Cliffy makes ramp flaps too?

#6040 2 years ago
Quoted from zucot:

I have the protectors installed. Cliffy makes ramp flaps too?

Yes, but they are stainless not the black spring steel.

#6041 2 years ago

Karma_Bum
Thanks- I'll see what I can find on ebay

#6042 2 years ago
Quoted from zucot:

I’m looking for either a set of ramp flaps for the treehouse and moes ramps or maybe even full replacements.
Are these unobtanium now?

Marcos has the black. Ive refinished a bunch now, and coated with museum wax.
Not hard to do.

#6043 2 years ago
Quoted from prl867:

Thank you so much for the opinions and advice!
One more minor one. Why does this pop up in between each ball? I’m in Vegas not UK.
[quoted image]

Found the answer. It’s a standard adjustment. When I changed batteries, it got switched to ON accidentally.

#6044 2 years ago

Can someone please explain how to build up and collect nuclear values? I see that the target behind the pop bumpers is labeled collect nuclear plant, but I never see it lit. Thanks

#6045 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Can someone please explain how to build up and collect nuclear values? I see that the target behind the pop bumpers is labeled collect nuclear plant, but I never see it lit. Thanks

I struggled with this as well but I think they build up with the pops and you collect with the left loop.

#6046 2 years ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

Can someone please explain how to build up and collect nuclear values? I see that the target behind the pop bumpers is labeled collect nuclear plant, but I never see it lit. Thanks

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-owners-club-members-only/page/121#post-6544077 check video from 8:58 and turn on eng subs.

#6048 2 years ago

Hey guys
I installed the couch weld fix yesterday and now the ball doesnt lock anymore when going into the couch?

Is it normal that the coil is like that?

Is it a switch issue? Did i hit something while removing upper pf?

4E47C663-9EBE-48A5-9A9D-3741946B0B0A (resized).jpeg4E47C663-9EBE-48A5-9A9D-3741946B0B0A (resized).jpeg
#6049 2 years ago

The coil is off by default locking the ball. Looks like something is jamming it open.

#6050 2 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

The coil is off by default locking the ball. Looks like something is jamming it open.

Thx, i will need to remove the couch and see i guess?

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