(Topic ID: 171746)

TSPP left flipper issues

By jackd104

5 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by Nobrain
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

Been troubleshooting this annoying issue with my TSPP left flipper. Here's some info. Any troubleshooting help or advice appreciated.

A few months ago, left flipper started developing a problem where every once in a while, it "crapped out". Intermittently wouldn't flip when pressed, or would only raise half-heartedly. Sometimes it stops working entirely. Other times it glitches a bit, then I continue playing a long time with no problems.

When testing the flipper solenoid in PORTALS diagnostic, flipper works fine.

I replaced the left flipper switch - did not help.

When doing a dedicated switch test in PORTALS, it shows the left flipper E.O.S. is on (physical switch is closed at this time). If I manually move the flipper mech opening the switch, it shows "none" in the display (which I guess means the switch is off). Is this normal?

Weirdly, when in the same dedicated switch test, the right flipper E.O.S. switch always shows off whether or not the switch is physically open or closed.

Whether flipper has been working well or not, the dedicated switch test shows the same results.

I opened backbox and reseated all connections - didn't seem to help.

Could a bum fuse cause this? I'm assuming not since it would just tend to not work at all.

I'm starting to suspect a board issue, which I'm not good with, so I'd have to ship it off for repair. So I'd like to eliminate everything else first.

Thanks,
Jack

#2 5 years ago

I'd swap left and right flipper switch. Could be the new one has an issue like the old one.

See if the problem moves.

LTG : )

#3 5 years ago

Actually, it looks like the right flipper EOS is not quite making contact in it's default position. When I press on the leaf (physical switch is making contact) then the dedicated switch test shows the switch is on. So I guess it's normal that these two switches appear as on in their closed positions. And I'm still not sure if these switches have anything to do with the issue

Thx

#4 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'd swap left and right flipper switch. Could be the new one has an issue like the old one.
See if the problem moves.
LTG : )

Hmm, that makes me think - could it be the diode thing (sorry I'm not sure what it is exactly) that is soldered to the switch connectors along with the wires? When I replaced the switch, I reused this part.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from jackd104:

could it be the diode thing

I doubt it.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#6 5 years ago

Solved it. I narrowed it down to be definitely a switch issue. When pressing on the leaves of the switch firmly with my fingers, it registered without fail. When using the flipper button, it registered with the familiar intermittent problem. Turned out the contacts on the new switch weren't lined up exactly and the rather light push of the button just wasn't causing the switch to always make good contact. Some minor manual adjusting of the switch leaves did the trick.

#7 5 years ago

As always, thanks for posting the solution!

Don C.

1 month later
#8 5 years ago

Ok, folks. After some time, the issue reappeared. I ordered yet another new switch (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-10A-48) and installed it. What I'm observing is this: the flipper button closes the switch, I can see physically that the switch contacts are touching. But it's not enough force, seemingly, to register the switch. When I press the switch together firmly with my fingers, like very strongly, it registers 100% of the time in the diagnostic test (and I've done this dozens of times, it's 100% of the time, so I'm ruling out electrical, board issues, etc). It's as if the switch needs to be squeezed together ridiculously hard (much more than the button could ever do) in order for the switch to work. I put a cloth with rubbing alcohol between the switch contacts, and after for a few moments, it worked perfectly - while switch contacts were still moist. Once it dried it, same problem. Is there something I don't know about adjusting or tuning these switches? File the contacts a little or something? How do I improve the conductivity? Is this normal? This is the second switch from Marco with a similar issue.

Thanks,
Jack

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Is there something I don't know about

You mean like where the points on the leaf blade strike each other aren't making a good circuit ?

I'd suspect the points aren't making good contact with the blade they are on. Poor manufacturing.

I'd solder the little bastards to the blade and be done with it.

LTG : )

#10 5 years ago

Well, they aren't the blade type. The two contacts are little cylinders with flat silver tops that touch flush when switch is closed. And what I'm saying is even when they are obviously touching the switch doesn't regist t. they need to be pressed together with force for electrical contact to be made (much more force than the button could ever do).

#11 5 years ago

Maybe someone can recommend an alternate part/supplier?

Thx,
Jack

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Well, they aren't the blade type.

Micro mini switch or leaf blade ? If leaf blade, then they are blade type.

Quoted from jackd104:

The two contacts are little cylinders with flat silver tops that touch flush when switch is closed.

And your little silver tops ( the two contacts ) aren't making good electrical to the blade they are hooked to.

LTG : )

#14 5 years ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Well, they aren't the blade type.

To try and explain better. This is a leaf blade switch.

Red arrow points to one leaf blade.

Yellow arrow points to contacts.

White arrow points to where the contacts are affixed onto the leaf blade.

Now when you push them together hard and they work, hints at a poor connection between the contact and leaf blade they are affixed to.

LTG : )

DSC00173 (resized).JPG

#15 5 years ago

LTG, that's why I like the one I linked to. There are not any contacts affixed to the blades. They just have a raised "/" that is part of the blade itself.

#16 5 years ago

Thanks for the good info guys. I will order the other switch from PBL and give it a try.

Jack

#17 5 years ago

Hello,
i'm interested ! Go exactly the same problem (and with a grand new switch from Marco too)...
Please continue to infomed us about your test !
Rod

#18 5 years ago

I'll try to replace my Q15/Q16 transistor... already done by someone before but was done by an 2 Left hands man !
keep you informed.

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from Nobrain:

I'll try to replace my Q15/Q16 transistor... already done by someone before but was done by an 2 Left hands man !

Grab a meter and check continuity of each transistor leg away from the repair area. To be sure you don't have a cracked or broken trace.

LTG : )

#20 5 years ago

Ok I installed the switch from PBL and it's working 100% now! It seems the ones from Marco are trouble prone since I had the same issue with 2 diff switches. The one from PBL was shorter, so Ihad to screw it to the cab a bit higher which I wasn't thrilled about adding new holes, but it works perfectly now so I'm glad it's done. Thank you all for the help.

Jack

#21 5 years ago

After changing my transistor still the same issue. I'll order a new switch as you Jackd105

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