hi all from oz, the other day my bart skateboard switch stopped working,tested it in diag. n wasnt registering,so today replaced switch with new one making sure to get wires n resistor/diode( unsure what theyre called sorry)round right way.turned machine back on n switch still isnt working,have a few questions ,when soldering can holding the heat on one point too long damage the resistor and or switch?would i just have a switch problem or something else?any help be greatly appreciated and pinside rocks

thank you for your response todd,ive checked the connector and switches with the green/orange wire they all test fine ,checked cpu sound board where the orange/green and white/violet goto to make sure c5 and c7 plugs are in properly,can u explain in more lamens terms bout jumping the two wires.do i place a diode across the two diff coloured wires just a few cms above the switch? and i ask again can shitty soldering and to much heat for a period of time damge the diode and or switch? if so there i will get a new diode n try another new switch, this is all new to me as im trying to learn so thanks again

i will ask also bout this in tspp owners forum ,sorry but im really really slow on tech but trying to undertsand with sumone who has sum patience,but does switch 23 barts skateboard actually trigger in switch test or active switch test mode with the playfield up,meaning do i have to have a game goin with captive ball going back to actually trigger the reward ,as this is only switch on table which actually triggers reward when switch is open.and to double check to make sure i got white violet wire on outside no2 like the top switch 22's white n blue wire, or am i wrong there, and the green orange wire goes in middle of switch like the top switch22's orange green wire?and the grey mark on diode goes same way as switch 22 and on the outside(no1),hope people understand what im asking ,thank you all and spending few hrs here n there n learning beats pays a guy 80-100$ an hr here to look at machine

Is it possibl for a diode to b faulty

Thanks a lot for the pics an effort.hope the new switch from marco is goodas its same part number in manual but has diff numbers on the switche.once again can a diode b at fault?.if not wots next?tracing wires thru harness?thanks again all.also what does triggering switch with ball do compared to triggerring with a finger.

the part number for switch is 180-5190-48 the original switch which i thought was faulty as wasnt triggering reward when captive ball hit reads ss-5-f 5a125vac-3a250vac and the new switch from marco reads ss-01-ft 0.1vac-0.1a30vdc .does this mean anything?and how does one go about testing a wire and connector?thanks again all n sorry if they seem like stoopid questions, btw bring the fuck on mmrle

still thanks again for all ya help,sounds daunting following all the wires back through all that harnessing but 1 step at a time

so looks like tracing the wires is the go,as changed diode and made sure wires r right way and still nothing, so do i now have to follow white violet and the two green orange wires bit at a time back thru the harness all way to backboard? thanks rlerman for ya help if after tracing wires i find nothing looks liek time to pay professionals to do it

ty again 4 reply , i have checked all them switches n targets n trough on both wires they all work ,should i now check the wiring like u suggested that runs thru the harness wires( them small wires dissapear easily in all that wiring lol) and then check connectors( do i just undo n repush em closed again?or is there a way to check connector to make sure wiring in connecter is registering), will then reflow the soldered joints on wiring ,and im def learning to have patience and kind o f enjoy trying to work this out. i give a rest for a few days then look back into it again and let u know how i go also curious why theres 2 green orange wires coming off of tha switch when switch 22 has a single green orange wire running from it?do both wires run diff places? i think its tequila time

ok will check continuity,then will triple check the switch n probably change it again after reflowing the solder, do the diff numbers on old switch n new switch make a diference,one reads 5A125vac-3A250vac and new 1 reads 0.1vac-0.1A30vdc

hi there just wanted to say ty and in end was a simple fix,switch wasnt broken in first place so i wasted 40-50$ on new switches i didnt even need,oh well,in end was a loose white violet wire goin to adv pop target,silly me