I'm working on a Taxi now, I currently have the cabinet cleared out, except the grounding strap. I recently rebuilt the top plate that supports the backbox. I do not have any plans but can take measurements of the cab if you want. Let me know if you need anything specific or if you are just looking for general measurements right now.

Hi Jason,

So this is what I measured.

cabinet overall length front to back: 51 5/8"
cabinet (not including backbox) width: 22"
rear of cabinet (not including backbox) height: 23 13/16", without top plate 22 1/2"
front of cabinet (not including lockdown bar height: 15 5/8"
backbox width: 28 5/8"
backbox height: 28 1/2"
top of backbox depth: 9 1/4"
bottom of backbox depth: 7 3/8"

The front and back cabinet pieces top cuts are mitered at 8 degrees (as is all the top plate angles a well). This would also mean that the cabinet sides lengthwise would be an 8 degree angle cut. I didn't calculate it out but over the overall length of the sides and the difference in height should be around 8 degrees.

The neck portion (what I'm calling the top plate) is in total 6 pieces (not including the four corner triangle supports).

The easiest piece is a 1/2" X 1" X 20 1/2" -- all straight cuts, this is us for extra height (thickness) when mounting the top glass guide to the entire top plate. The thickness of the 3/4" top plate would not be thick enough to mount the guide too. In my pictures this has not been attached yet.

The next piece is 3/4" X 6 3/4 X 22" -- again all straight cuts. It has a 5/16" X 5/16" X 16 1/2" routed channel 3/4" back from the front (front edge of channel to front of piece). Not sure if this is 'needed' if you do not have router as if you glue and nail the entire box to the top plate I would think it would be enough but was on original so I added it. There is also the cut out for the wires to the back box. Front front it is 1 1/2" back 3 5/8" deep and 8 5/8" wide. But if you are making the back box as well you would just want to match up the cut outs so they lined up. Next there are three holes on each side, two for the hinge and one for the bolt to screw down the back box. The center of the hinge holes are 3 1/16" from the front and 3 7/8 and 6 1/8 from each side. The hinge holes are for 1/4" bolts but are larger in diameter 5/16" for the hardware. Again I would say since you are building all of it these would be best to line up once you have everything together and lined up. The third hole needs to be drilled at a 8 degree angle so the bolt can go in straight from the back box. The center of the hole is 4 5/8" from the front and 4" from the side, again can be lined up with backbox and may be easier to drill once all together and not have to worry about the 8 degree angle. Lastly the bottom of the piece has three sides with a rabbit cut 3/4" wide and 3/8" deep along all three sides except the front. This is what sits on the cabinet frame. There are additional triangle support pieces on the three sides of the cabinet and 'top plate'.

The final four pieces make up the rectangle box, I will try and draw these out as I doubt my description will make a lot of sense....

All are 3/4" thick stock, I used hardwood but original was plywood, I had oak and popular stock around so just used what I had.

First the front and back pieces, the bottom cuts are mitered at the 8 degree angle. The side pieces are also cut at 8 degrees but would be on one of the length cuts.

The easy ones, the sides, two of them. 5 1/8" long (straight side), front - 1 11/16" back 15/16" heights. The angle side should be close to 5 1/4" long -- All straight cuts, no miters, just one side on an angle lengthwise.

The back piece - mitered at 8 degrees on the bottom cut. 18 1/2" wide, front side 1" back side 7/8" (3/4" width). In essence a 3/4" X 1" X 18 1/2" piece with bottom miter at 8 degrees to give the 7/8" height on the back side. Also both ends have a 3/4" and 3/8" rabbit to allow the side pieces to connect too.

The front piece... fun stuff.
Again the bottom cut is mitered at 8 degrees but if you are going to keep the routed channel then 1/4" of the very front needs to not be removed with the exception of about 1" on each side, but those 1" cut out still need to be at 8 degrees. This will create the tongue for the channel (groove) you created on the 'top plate'. The piece is 18 1/2" wide, the height on the front side including the tongue is 2", the back height is 1 5/8". Same as back piece this has each end with a 3/4" X 3/8" rabbit for the side pieces to connect too. Lastly are two 5/8" deep by 3 3/8" wide cut outs for the hinge to pass through. They are 1 3/4" in from the edge, but again IMO best to line up everything with the hinges and were you actually mount them. There are also two holes under each cut out for the bolts for the hinges, again line them up with your hinge bracket.

Lastly there are four triangle supports in the for corners, I just cut a piece of stock at a 45 degree angle and then cut to length, no need to worry about the 8 degree as to can just shorten up the piece so it is flush on top, that is how it was also done from the factory.

At this time I can't measure anything with the glass as I no longer have the glass channel guides installed so not sure of the measurements you have with the glass.

The carriage bolts which are the playfield pivot mounts, I measured on center to be 14 7/16" height from bottom of cabinet, and 17 1/4" forward of the back of the cabinet.

I would say you have pretty good measurements, we have very slight differences a 1/16" hear and there. give or take by the person taking the measurements and the tape measure itself

If you need other pictures of the cabinet detail let me know.

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