(Topic ID: 223380)

Trying to bring a kings of steel back from the dead (no signs of life)

By majicman110

5 years ago


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#1 5 years ago

Ok. I went dumpster diving for the first time this past weekend and ended up picking up a Kings of Steel from a guy on Facebook that was just going to pitch it. It is in very rough shape but I am trying to see if I can even get it working before worrying about any of the Aesthetics. When I bought the machine it was absolutely dead and had no signs of life. I purchased a new power supply board from K's arcade and switched over Altec solenoid, mpu, and lamp boards from a Bobby Orr power-play than I have. Now the backglass lights in the back box light up and a single LED is lit on the solenoid board, but other than that there are still no signs of life. Any suggestions on where to start troubleshooting from here? The only other thing is that the utility Outlet located inside the machine is functional.

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1 week later
#3 5 years ago

Ok. Something on the cheap squeak sound board is blowing the fuse on the rectifier board immediately upon startup. If I leave the soundboard unplugged, the mpu boots and the game will play, but I still had no lights except for the backbox gi. Absolutely no illumination on the playfield. Replaced a fuse holder on the rectifier board and now I have gi on the playfield but no controlled lights. All test points on the lamp driver and auxiliary lamp driver board are showing of 5 volts so I guess I need to start repinning connectors. Any other suggestions? I should probably just repin everything but figured I should start on the board in the back box instead of the lamp board under the Playfield?

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

The 5 volts on your lamp boards is only for the logic circuits on the boards. Power for the feature lamps goes directly from the rectifier board to the playfield and backbox, so check the rectifier to make sure all voltages are correct.

Just repinned all connectors on the rectifier. All voltages on the rectifier test points are correct but still no controlled lamps

#7 5 years ago

There are two main light boards under this game and I put about half a dozen new LEDs in each just in case all the lamps had died. Took out one lamp board and the pins and connectors looked good.
I apologize for my ignorance, but what do you mean by braid under the playfield? I assume you don't mean the ground braid in the cabinet.

#9 5 years ago

So there are very few of those feature lamps that are not on the green lanp boards with twist out sockets. The few that are mounted to the playfield are all reading 0.75. The gi on the playfield are all reading 0. I am testing these by putting one lead on the bare wire and the other on a nearby ground braid in the backbox. (Just in case im doing something wrong). Also I believe I mentioned this before but my controlled Lance in the back box are working. It is only the controlled lamps on the Playfield that are not showing any signs of life.

#10 5 years ago

Holy crap. Well I started tracing wires from the rectifier to the playfield and found 2 damaged and one cut wire. No idea why/how that would ever happen but I now have controlled lighting!!!

Now all I have to do is get the third flipper working ans fix the cheap squeak board. The wires for the third flopper were hanging down into the cabinet and no end of stroke switch was present. The cheap squeak board looks like it's missing a capacitor.
so the Adventure Continues.
If anyone can send me a picture of the wiring of their upper flipper on a Kings of Steel I would appreciate it.

#12 5 years ago

Well, I have a three flipper rebuild kits on the way. After I finish those the sound will be the only thing keeping this game from being fully functional. Does anyone know what size upper flipper was originally used on this game. I have seen all types used and cant seem to find anything by searching the original bally part number. Mine came with a 3" flipper that matches the two main flippers.

While im waiting for my flipper kits to come in, figured I would start on the sound board. Clearly there are two capacitors missing at the bottom of the board, just left of center. Does anyone see anything else glaring on this board or recommend anything that tends to always fail on these cheap squeak boards? The rectifier board fuse is blowing if the cheap squeak board is plugged in when the game is on but figured the first step regardless is the finish populating the board.

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#15 5 years ago
Quoted from chas10e:

the image you posted in the first post shows a 2" upper flipper bat as mine has. but I could see how a 3" bat would fit

Sorry, you are correct. Mine came with a 2" flipper but I have seen videos of refurbished machines that appear to use standard 3" flippers like in this video from TNT
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=kings+of+steel+pinball+abbreviation&&view=detail&mid=9509146A7EBFFC6BC5159509146A7EBFFC6BC515&&FORM=VRDGAR

Sometimes figuring out what the modern day equivalent of these old Bally part numbers is a chore. I guess either flipper would work, just wondering if anyone knew which size flipper was supposed to be used.

#16 5 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

The missing components aren't capacitors. D6 is a diode, the other one looks the same as the two red components at the bottom right.
Pinwiki has a photo: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Bally_Cheap_Squeak.JPG
Edit: IPDB has a manual with schematics. Page 36 of that manual shows the Cheap-Squeak board layout. D6 is described as a VR332, GP30 and L1 is described as a 10 UH Choke.

Thanks the cheap squeak info I found online was pretty much unreadable due to size/scan quality. Any recommendations on where the heck I can find these? I typically buy thru Great Plains Electronics, but can't find these on their website.

3 weeks later
#18 5 years ago

Thanks to everyone for their help. I apologize for showing my ignorance in some of my earlier posts, but thanks to you all, I now have a fully functioning Kings of Steel!!
Although my backglass is 90% flaked off and the cabinet is barely salvageable.

Now for the big question... Should I try to restore it and find a new backglass and create new cabinet art, or just retheme it?

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