(Topic ID: 273005)

Troubleshooting Shadow "check F115 and F116, J112 and opto 12v supply

By Hoser

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Ronkz650
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 3 years ago

I have already done a bunch of research on other threads related to this error message on my Shadow.

Facts:

- error message on startup: check F115 and F116, J112 and opto 12v supply.

- just prior to error machine was kicking out all the balls and launching them. Now (with error message) game won't start.

- ALL optos controlled by The SW10 board are not working in test mode.

- other optos are working

- fuses all good

- power at J116, 117, and 118 all good. (Checked voltage at pin 2)

- The LED on opto sw10 board (under playfield) is NOT LIT.

- Yet there is power going to the board and the ground checks out.

- all other opto boards have a lit LED and their corresponding switches work.

- possibly unrelated, but I was starting to get occasional resets the week before this happened.

I am close to replacing the LM339s on SW1o opto board but just wanted to make sure it isn't something else.

I have checked for a detached wire in the chain and did not find one, but some are hard to follow.

Questions:

- If the sw10 board is getting power, can a bad component on the board keep the LED from coming on? (Bad diode? Bad chip? Bad filtered capacitor?)

Thanks for your help.

#2 3 years ago
Quoted from Hoser:

I am close to replacing the LM339s on SW1o opto board but...

Thats what I would do if you got'em

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Thats what I would do if you got'em

Yeah, luckily have a few on hand and some sockets. Will have at it later tonight with the soldering iron when the kids are down. Unless I'm advised to try anything else first.

#4 3 years ago
Quoted from Hoser:

The LED on opto sw10 board (under playfield) is NOT LIT.

I would bet the electrolytic capacitor leaked and killed power to the board. Does the board look wet around the capacitor? If so, that's it. It is corrosive and eats up traces just as battery alkaline does.

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I would bet the electrolytic capacitor leaked and killed power to the board. Does the board look wet around the capacitor? If so, that's it. It is corrosive and eats up traces just as battery alkaline does.

Did not see evidence of major corrosion at a quick glance, but will check it when I remove the board. Mounted I see mostly the backside of the board though. And the back of that board did seem a bit darker behind where the caps are. Will check those traces when it's off the machine too. Are those prone to leaking? Thanks.

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from Hoser:

Did not see evidence of major corrosion at a quick glance, but will check it when I remove the board. Mounted I see mostly the backside of the board though. And the back of that board did seem a bit darker behind where the caps are. Will check those traces when it's off the machine too. Are those prone to leaking? Thanks.

You have to look at the board on the top side of the board to see whether the capacitor is leaking. I am pretty sure there is just one electrolytic capacitor on the board. The capacitor would have to be removed to see if the traces are damaged under it. Sometimes just get lucky and the capacitor is the only problem.

C2 on the driver board is another one that likes to leak and damage the traces under it.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

You have to look at the board on the top side of the board to see whether the capacitor is leaking. I am pretty sure there is just one electrolytic capacitor on the board. The capacitor would have to be removed to see if the traces are damaged under it. Sometimes just get lucky and the capacitor is the only problem.
C2 on the driver board is another one that likes to leak and damage the traces under it.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message

Thanks for the advice. I will definitely check that out. Had no idea that could be a weak spot. I know about battery damage, now I know to look out for this too.

#8 3 years ago

If the LED is not lit, you don't have power. Don't replace LM339s, won't help. They need power. Power comes into the board, goes through a diode, that there is where the LED gets volts as well as the rest of the board. If LED is not lit, but for sure power is coming into the board, the potential problem area is slim, either the board is somehow open in connection between the 12v input and the diode, open between the diode and the remainder of the board, or the diode itself is open. Quick volt checks with a meter should reel in the open spot in quick order.

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