(Topic ID: 210310)

Troubleshooting Help Request: Solenoids #9-16 not firing NBA Fastbreak


By PinballOut

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by PinballOut
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 1 year ago

Hi Pinside, long time reader and recently got my first pin for the family...NBA Fastbreak. We loved it the first week we had it but I've been trying to fix it for a couple weeks now and the kids are anxious to start playing it again (and me too!).

Machine is in excellent shape but solenoids #9-16 aren't firing (confirmed running T.4 test), the biggest issue being I can't get the ball trough ejector to fire so no balls come up into the shooter lane. I've read on this site and others and watched lots of videos what could be the problem (and learned a lot in the process), but am at the end of what I know to try. I think I'm missing something or perhaps tested something wrong.

I tested the optos and they seem to be in good order, fuses all test good, all wiring/connections look intact, resistance tests with DMM where it should be, transistors look good. I notice in the manual the solenoids not firing (#9-16) connect to J113 and J133 and these all look good too. I'm not sure exactly how to best test these wires and think the problem could be related to J113 or J133 even though they look good/intact.

Thank you for any help!!!!
Josh

#2 1 year ago

Aren’t all those on the same fuse?

#3 1 year ago

As mank mentioned all of those solenoids are on the same fuse. Here's a great resource for spotting patterns like that.

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

Click on tech charts (on the left) and then search for the game you're having an issue with.

#4 1 year ago

Yes, fuse is F104. I checked the fuse and it looks good and tests good...thank you for any advice!

#5 1 year ago

If the fuse tests good with a meter pulled out of the circuit, you’ll need to start looking under the playfield and follow the wires that connect each of the solenoids together on that string and see if there’s a broken wire. The coils are chained together, so a break at the beginning of the string could explain this. Good luck.

#6 1 year ago

terryb thank you for linking that resource...compiled in one spot so much of what I have spent lots of time looking thru manual to find!

#7 1 year ago

Thanks mschonbrun. I'll go thru those solenoid wires and look for a broken wire now...would you guess the possible broken wire at the beginning of the string would be nearer one of the solenoids or the driver board?

#8 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballOut:

Thanks mschonbrun. I'll go thru those solenoid wires and look for a broken wire now...would you guess the possible broken wire at the beginning of the string would be nearer one of the solenoids or the driver board?

The way I would tackle this is to start with voltage. It’s the fuel for your car and without it nothing is going to work. So, if the fuse is good, get a meter on DC volts, one lead on ground strap/braid and then touch each coil that isn’t working and see if any of them have voltage. If none of the do, start looking for broken wires. You can also reduce complexity by testing each coil to its next on the string with a continuity check. They have to be connected to one another for voltage to flow. Report back.

#9 1 year ago

Thanks again mschonbrun. I think I'm doing something wrong testing DC volts. New to all of this. My multimeter settings are below. Would you kindly provide more specific detail on where I should be placing the leads for the ground and each coil, or from each coil to the next on the string? I keep getting a very small negative reading...thank you!

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#10 1 year ago

Checking voltage: Meter is set correctly above. Black lead should tuck into the grounding braid in the cabinet. Red lead can touch either lug of the solenoid.

Checking continuity: Meter moves to the right of “OUT”. In this setting, the leads will beep when they touch each other, and when they are spanning connected components. So, one lead on coil A, and the next lead on coil B as you follow the wire where they’re physically connected.

When you checked the fuse, you pulled it out of the game and checked it with the meter set to continuity?

#11 1 year ago

Forgot one thing, if you had the coil door open when you test, you need to pull the interlock switch or close the door—voltage is cut for safety reasons when the door is open.

#12 1 year ago

Ahhh, thank you I pulled the interlock switch and am getting DC voltage readings of about 70 now to all solenoids. Yes I believe I did pull out the fuse and check it with DMM set to continuity. What do we think next? Thanks!

#13 1 year ago

I just triple checked the solenoid #9-16 fuse is good by pulling it out and running a continuity test successfully on it.

I also checked continuity from the coils #9-16 and they all test good.

Any other ideas? Thank you!

#14 1 year ago

Try reseating the ribbon cable that connects the driver board and the MPU

#15 1 year ago

Reseated ribbon cable from driver board and MPU and everything is still the same. I also notice when I turn it on it sometimes begins with "Factory Settings Restored" lately. Could that be related?

#16 1 year ago

That means either your batteries are dying or perhaps your board has alkaline damage. Can you post some photos of the battery area? Focused and close-up?

#17 1 year ago

Batteries are fresh, see a little green perhaps from battery leakage...

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#18 1 year ago

If that's the worst of it I doubt it's related but do inspect that area carefully. Battery leakaged does odd things and yours have leaked at some point. Any chip legs nearby got corrosion on them? Vinegar and some Q-tips might help clean the battery holder contacts. Game unplugged while cleaning.

Have you reviewed the Pinwiki information? http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work
Does the game's help info give you any clues?
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#.22Help.22_Info_Provided_by_WPC_Games

#19 1 year ago

Thanks YeOldPinPlayer...really appreciate your help. I cleaned off the contacts and they look good...also no corrosion on any other chip legs or other components I can see.

Thanks for the Pinwiki links, hadn't been through those before. I worked through both links and no new progress on getting solenoids to fire. It's a mystery still for me. Appreciate any further insights!

#20 1 year ago

On the CPU board, can you give the big square chip U9 a gentle push into its socket (with machine OFF)

#21 1 year ago

Has this ever worked?

#22 1 year ago

Well that didn't seem to work very well. Now the game when powered on has a blank DMD, no sound, and the mechanicals and lights flicker and fire lightly repeatedly but no full load or ability to reset from buttons inside coin door, start, flippers, or shoot button...

#23 1 year ago

Any cracks in the corners of the U9 socket ?

#24 1 year ago

Doesn't look like any...thanks for the help zaza...

#25 1 year ago

I think that you should consider getting the board out for repair.

#26 1 year ago

Thanks mschonbrun. It is feeling that way to me too at this point. One other note...the last two times I've started the machine the solenoid backup fuse F108 has burned out. Would this line up with an MPU board issue?

Where would you all recommend I send the board for repair? Or should I consider just buying a new one?

Thanks all, I really appreciate your time and guidance!

#27 1 year ago

Chris Hibler and Rob Anthony are both on Pinside and are top notch. As for the fuse, I would discuss this with them; you may want to troubleshoot a little more and potentially send in both boards. Best to speak with them and see what they say.

#28 1 year ago

Great...thanks again!

#29 1 year ago
Quoted from zaza:

On the CPU board, can you give the big square chip U9 a gentle push into its socket (with machine OFF)

This is best done with the CPU board removed from the game and placed on a hard surface.

#30 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Chris Hibler and Rob Anthony are both on Pinside and are top notch. As for the fuse, I would discuss this with them; you may want to troubleshoot a little more and potentially send in both boards. Best to speak with them and see what they say.

chrishibler is Chris, borygard is Rob. http://lockwhenlit.com/ is Rob's website and he goes to pinball shows around the country repairing boards. His 2018 show schedule thread is https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/borygards-show-schedule-18

#31 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

potentially send in both boards.

The blown fuse can be caused due to a problem with the blanking signal. Together with current symptons, it might be wise to let them checked both.

#32 1 year ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

cfh is Chris, borygard is Rob. http://lockwhenlit.com/ is Rob's website and he goes to pinball shows around the country repairing boards. His 2018 show schedule thread is https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/borygards-show-schedule-18

chrishibler is Chris. Cfh is Clay.

#33 1 year ago

Great, thanks again all!

1 month later
#34 1 year ago

Hi all, I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who helped me out...really appreciated it! This is my first pin and within 3 days of getting it had it experience a problem. I had a lot of fun and learned a ton thru the process of trying to figure out what was wrong and how to fix it. The problem for me was everything seemed to test fine. You all led me to Chris Hibler who figured out the issue was on a board, fixed it, put in an NVRAM, and the game is playing perfectly again! My kids are loving playing their own pinball machine. This site is great, full of really good information, and even better, really nice helpful people!

Thanks again!
Josh

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