I just completed my first playfield swap on The Addams Family. I was pleased to see the game light up and start a game on power up. No errors were reported. After running through some tests and a few games I found that all of the pop bumpers, sling kickers were not working. These are all on connector J127 and J107-2. I checked continuity from the J107-2 to each component. I found fuse F104 was blown. I replaced it and it immediately blew again. I did molex each of these components as part of the swap. Fairly confident I reconnected them correctly. All of the violet-orange wires to J107-2 are connected to each other through the connectors.
Could someone give me some suggestions on how to troubleshoot this short problem?

I have to get a few more fuses then I'll start checking by removing J127. From what you wrote my understanding is that if the fuse blows with J127 off then I need to look at the board components, likely transistors? If not, then disconnect all of the coils and start adding them in one by one until I find which one is causing the problem. Correct? Is there away to check the coils with a meter. J127 also has the left magnet on it but it does not use the F104 fuse on the power driver board so I assume that could not be causing the problem.

I isolated the coil that was causing the fuse to blow. It was easy since I molexed them all during the playfield swap. Sometimes it just hard to troubleshoot DUMB! When I put the molex on the left sling I soldered both wires to the same lug. Now that is a SHORT. I am out of fuses and they should arrive shortly. I am fairly certain this will solve the problem with all seven coils.

After correcting the short on the left flipper and replacing the 3A SB fuse I started a game. The left sling coil was stuck on and got warm. The fuse did not blow. I disconnected the left sling and the other components now work (right sling and the pop bumpers). So where do I begin to get the coil unstuck?

What is the correct way to check if the transistor is shorted? Here is what I wrote down when researching this problem earlier
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"For TP 102 place the black lead of DMM on the metal tab of the transistor. Probe each of the flanking leg with the red probe. .4 to .6 volts is normal.
Probe the center leg with the red probe. A short should be seen, if not the transistor failed." Anything else you would add to this? Does this adequately test for a shorted transistor?

"For 2N5401 put the black lead on the center leg and probe to the flanking legs looking for .4 to .6 volts."

I checked transistor Q48. .6v + to one leg but zero v to the other. The pre-driver 2N5401 tested okay. I replaced the TIP102 and hoped that the coil wasn't ruined as a result of the short. Once the driver transistor was installed the left sling fired and the game is good to go. I am pleasantly surprised that I did not have more problems to track down after an 18 month playfield swap.