Check to make sure there are not shorts in the harness?

Have you tested Q3?
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Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
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Yes replaced it. Was trying to figure out what in-coming voltage to look for but....Gottlieb...ugg

Does it energize as soon as power is applied? If so,

In this order:

-check for shorted diode on that coil (just replace the diode if uncertain)
-check the resistance of that coil (checking for a bad coil)
-check for a floating ground in the back box (check every board) or, in the lower cabinet (white wires all common)
-reseat/tone out interconnect harness between driver board and MPU. Look for damaged pins with a bright light...

No it doesn't energize right away.. When the MPU boots its resets the drop targets and right bank stays on. We have a set of new boards made by some off brand cant remember the name. But that would rule out the inter connect cable. Nothing is grounded to the ground plate in the backbox. Everything is isolated. Coil tests the same as others. Replaced the diode.

Ok, that's the first problem. All boards should have a common ground run to each other and then all terminated to the metal back part of the back box.

I tried that yesterday, i just used a jumper to ground everything and still the same problem remains. Its Q3 that is driving this target bank reset coil staying energized and i heard that Q3 is supposed to be for the coin lock-out coil? IDK, at this point i'm just going to jump the right target bank coil off of the center bank coil and call it a day. lol

Next step is to check/upgrade the groups in the lower cabinet connecting to the transformer block.

Q3 you say...

looking it up now... nope...

RIGHT 4 BANK RESET IS CONTROLLED BY Q54, NOT Q3! In the manual, it is labeled as Solenoid#3, bit not transistor 3. It's on page 11 of the manual.

You need to check or just replace transistor Q54, it's pre driver transistor, and then check the IC that drives the pre-driver in that order of most likely culprit.

Snyper is correct. I think you had your wires crossed with Solenoid 3 not Q3.

Q54 is an MPS-U45 transistor. I'm not familiar with Rottendog products; on the Gottlieb driver board it's located on the far upper left corner. Doesn't look like it goes through a pre-drive transistor or a latch flip flop according to the schematics...

Is this supposed Rottendog board brand new?

That's why I'm always a fan of the original hardware and not the third party stuff.

Its not a Rottendog its a SWEMMER MPU and I/O and it is the same exact layout as the factory boards. Right, Q54 is the (right target bank reset) but that feeds into another board (A116) and threw another transistor (Q3) then out to the playfield. When i turn the game on it goes threw its normal routine and then resets the two target banks and single target but then it keeps (Q54-Q3) energized every time.

Transistor_driver_board_schem.jpg
Transistor_driver_board.jpg

That all starts from the main driver board here...(Q54, Q55, Q56) They feed directly into (A116) into Q1, Q2, Q3. And that comes from the main control board.

Transistor_driver_board_schem2.jpg

Starts here...

MPU.jpg

I'm going to do the ground mod's by the transformer first tomorrow to see if there are any changes. Just watched one of Todd's video's and am going to do this.

Right, that's why you need to replace Q54. You have only eliminated Q3 out of the equation, not Q54. If it's bad it, could act exactly like your game is acting.

I MUST say, that if a game does not "lock on" a solenoid as soon as power is applied, it's usually a physical problem and not an electrical problem. Are you certain that when you manually move the bank with the game OFF that it does not hang up in the closed position? That could be explained by something as simple as a dirty or worn out coil sleeve.

Yea i check the movement and its smooth. And because its a brand new board i'm hesitant to replace any components on it before i send it back but today i will do the ground mod and see what happens.

So i just repaired the old MPU put it back in and the game plays perfectly. I guess sometimes you can't assume that a brand new board will be bad. Next time i wont be to quick to out rule it...
Thank you all for your help and support. Pinside rules