(Topic ID: 291500)

Trouble with JackBot illumination

By Mr_Pinball

3 years ago


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  • 17 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by PinMonk
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#1 3 years ago

A couple of weeks ago, I picked up my first 'modern' pinball machine, a Williams JackBot. The owner didn't seem to know much about it, and the whole playfield didn't light up except for one bulb. Speaking of which, the playfield was rather dirty and seemed as if it was never cleaned before. After taking off the translite, none of those bulbs worked either! I soon got to work on it and replaced the old bulbs with new ones, and the playfield and translite soon lit up. The ramp on the machine had trouble going up and down, but a little greasing and cleaning fixed the problem. I soon realized that the upper playfield lights never came on (the ones in and behind the opening visor) and the flashlamps on both the cabinet and playfield never worked. There is also one strand of lights that does not work in the backbox and the coin door bulbs don't light up. I'm fairly new to pinball and don't know a lot about the electrical components, but I have a feeling that it might be a fuse. Any suggestions?

#3 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Might be a fuse, but more likely a burned connector for the GI. This is not unusual. Look on the bottom row of the power driver board in the backbox. You should see a yellowed/brown/black connector.

Just removed the connector and it's perfectly clean. If it's not that, what else could be causing the problem?

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Is it upper GI only, or inserts/flashers/feature lights, too? I don't think there's a fuse for just upper GI by itself.
Could be oxidized connectors, too. Try inserting it/removing it a few times to "wipe" the pins and connectors.
You're probably looking at a bad transistor driving the upper GI (Q14 a BT138E - highlighted on the board pic) or a physically broken wire in the GI chain. Do you have a multimeter to test transistors? If the transistor's bad, you'll also need thermal paste to put between the new one and the heatsink when you replace.

It is the upper GI and the inserts/flashers/feature lights. The flashers don't go off as they should, and the whole upper playfield doesn't light up. I do have a multimeter and could test the transistors.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Are you testing the flashers with the white post on the left inside of the coin door frame pulled out? Otherwise the high power cutoff will not allow them to light.
On the power driver board, I'd check fuses then if you have that much out. With your multimeter set to continuity, remove and check F106, F107, F108, F109, F110 (all GI), F111 (flashers), and F114 (insert controlled lights). All should be 5A slo blo except F114, which is 8A slo blo. Don't check them in the holders.

I made sure to close the coin door before testing. After testing the fuses, F106, F107, and F108 are out. No power is shown going through them, so they might be done for. I did notice that F108 was strictly a 250V, while F106 and F107 were both 250V/313. I did notice that F111 is also a 250/313, but features a different ampage which is 3. F108, F106, and F107 all have an ampage of 5. Are the fuses the same for each, but have a different ampage? Also, what would be a good place to find fuses?

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Somebody put the wrong fuse in. It should be 5A slo blo according to the documentation. Replace the fuses and boot one at a time in case they were killed by a dead short. Nothing worse than losing a handful of new fuses at once due to an undiscovered problem. Replace one, boot, if good, power off, replace another, boot, repeat...
313 isn't amperage, it's just the class of fuse - glass slo blo.
https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/electronics/datasheets/fuses/littelfuse_fuse_313_315_datasheet.pdf.pdf
You also probably will want to get the jackbot manual pdf from the ipdb site (scroll down to documentation):
https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?any=jackbot&search=Search+Database&searchtype=quick
[quoted image]

That makes sense! I've got to order new fuses. Would these work?

ebay.com link: itm

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Highway robbery. I'll send you some. PM me your address.

Just sent. I appreciate your help. I'm new to pinball and would have never figured this out.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

I'm sending you enough 3A and 5A slo blo to get you going with some left over.

Thank you! So the slo blo fuses can go in any slot as long as the ampage is matched?

1 week later
#16 3 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

So now that you have all the fuses replaced that were out and 108 is still blowing, you need to look at the Q14 transistor. Test that and see if it's good. If it's okay, then you need to follow the white/yellow wiring from GI socket to GI socket and look for a short or screw through a wire or something that would make a short.

I have a new problem! Went to turn the machine on today, and the lights under the playfield don't light up. An error message on the display says "check fuses F114 and F115." I checked those and they get power through them. Is it yet another transistor?

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