(Topic ID: 266491)

Trouble with Earthshaker

By Jagdad

4 years ago


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#1 4 years ago

New guy on the site with a reasonably good Earthshaker, Williams 11B System in the basement and no experience, at all in Pinball. My game quit about a month ago and I finally decided to take a shot at repair. Found the manual and got up to speed. Found two problems. Lamp coil circuit of the transformer was dead! Easy fix, new trans.
Second problem was the game lost it's programming everytime I turned it off. More research showed the game had batteries that I didn't even realize. Changed the batteries but realized the battery holder was toast. Not too bad, got a battery replacement mod from Todd at TNT Amusements for the coin battery modification board. Pretty simple install, fit like it was supposed to and I reinstalled the board. Powered up the game, changed one item in programming to free play, closed the program and the display went to every segment lit up. Game now locks up with full segment display at the end of programming. Before I changed to the coin battery, I could still play the game. Now it won't play at all.
The display flickers slowly once it displays all segments but never allows play.
Tried everything I could think of all to no avail.
I sure would like to hear if anyone else has run into this problem. I don't know where to go from here
Any help would be greatly appreciated

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

First is make sure the game is booting. https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#MPU_boot_issues
If it is, I would remove the battery you installed. If that doesn’t work either, try removing the new battery holder you installed.
You can play it without batteries, it just won’t save any settings or high scores.

Thanks for the suggestions
Game is booting correctly according to the manual.
I had already tried removing the battery but tried again. No luck so I removed the newly installed battery board.
No luck. Still locks with all segments of the message board lit.
Bummer!

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Reseat both ends of that display cable, with power off. Also please post a picture the the MPU surrounding the battery holder. i hope there is no battery damage.

Tried the cable with no luck. The display seems to work fine until it locks up at the end of programming. I did think maybe the cable was the issue since it's been on and off so many times. MPU photo along with the display once it locks up
Thanks very much for trying to help

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#8 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Can you flip both ends of the ribbon cable? So pin 1 of the ribbon cable will be at pin 26. This should rule out the cable for sure. Honestly, I would not mind seeing a video of this problem. Pinside only accepts links to videos from elsewhere. I do not know what you mean by "locks up at end of the programming". Do you mean once a game ends? Is the diagnostic LED still blinking when the display locks up?
What game ROM version is in it? It should show when you turn on the game. Can you go through the display test and let it run a couple of cycles?
What other games do you have?

Flipped the cable, still acts the same. I don't think the display is the problem, runs through the display test fine
Status LEDs don't change and diagnostic is still flashing
ROM version is LA3
No, I don't have any other games.
I have a video of what happens but not sure how to make it available

#13 4 years ago

If I turn the game on with the coin door open, the display reads 'Factory Reset'. If I turn it on with the coin door closed, the display says 'Adjust Failure" because it has no battery installed. If I install a battery and turn it on with the door open, it stays like the photo above, all digits lit. By pressing the advance button, the display indicates the Earthshaker, ID00, 568 and LA3. Pushing the Auto-Up/Manual-down button to the DOWN position and then pushing the ADVANCE button once, the display reads INSTALL FACTORY AD70 and DONE. When I press advance to finish the settings, it lights all digits on the display like the photo above and locks up. Once that happens, none of the programming buttons do anything. Display also goes into a slow flicker but stays lit.

The game locks after exiting the settings menu and no, the display is original, not an LED replacement
Far as I can tell, all the boards are original

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

OK, I reread the whole thread.... maybe a power supply issue at this point? The Mpu looks really decent I don't see any damage there, but segments locking on at bootup could happen with low voltage - the game wouldn't come out of reset at that point.

The segments don't lock on bootup, only when I exit the settings menu

#16 4 years ago

Here's a link to the video. I turn on the power with the door open.
Jit the advance button to the Earthshaker display
Push the red button down and hit advance to 'back into' AD 70
Push the red button to raise it up and push Advance
Lock up!

#17 4 years ago

So I guess by the crickets I hear, no one has a clue what’s wrong
Can anyone tell me where to go from here?
Do I send the MPU out for repair?
Worst part of this is the game worked before I started “repairs”!
It just wouldn’t retain programming
Suggestions please!

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

It definitely is not a commonly seen issue. Seems like it has a problem resetting after exiting the adjustment menu. After turning on the game, can you add credits, start a game and play through a full game and it ends a game properly?

Can't do anything. When I turn it on with the door open, I get what the video shows. Factory Settings, Earthshaker screen etc.

#23 3 years ago

Thanks again for your help Guys. I'll try to answer questions in sequence
1. Tried the door closed startup and on/off with no help
2. Sequence of changes:
When I turned game ON, I would get Factory Reset or Adjustment Failure depending on whether the door was open or closed
Cycled the adjustment items to AD70, left item in Factory Reset and hit advance to close Settings.
Game played normal til I turned it off, then needed to set Factory Reset to play again on startup. Battery holder was corroded so I removed and installed Lithium Battery Board.
Game NEVER worked again
Then, testing indicated the 5.6 volt transformer winding was open and no general illumination worked at all.
Purchased an old used transf. from TNT and installed in place of my original transf. Lights now work but nothing else changed.
Removed new transf. and re-installed original transf. Nothing changed
Removed MPU and removed Lithium Battery Board. Nothing changed
You mention a Factory Reset but I believe that is what I'm doing at AD70 by clicking Done

New development. I removed the MPU yet again to more closely inspect the board and found some repairs previously unnoticed.
These are obviously old repairs but I have included photos.
The repairs appear to have replaced Q33 and Q29 transistors. Traces for both components lead to J11 connector pins on the board. This connector is located on the MPU in the lower left corner when the MPU is mounted in the game
Both appear to be in a single solenoid circuit.
Don't know if this could possibly cause my problem but I'm grasping at straws
Photos attached address a question or two and also show the repaired section

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#30 3 years ago

Thanks again for ALL your help
Today's update as follows:
1.Re-installed the replacement transformer. (I had removed it to test the original transformer) Neither transformer changes the display problem
2. I re-installed the TNT Lithium Battery Board ( I DID NOT install a battery) When I had a battery in previously, I had to remove it to unlock the display once it locked.
3. I re-installed the MPU and carefully checked all connectors when plugging in
4. Checked the power as directed on the power supply board. J3 Pts. 8 & 9 reads 92.4 VAC J3 Pts 2 & 4 reads 10.32VAC Pts. 4 & 6 also 10.32VAC
5. To answer a previous question, I can do anything in the adjustments section including Auto Burn IN at AD67 . Everything works fine, Music Test runs, Lamp Test, Solenoids, etc.
One last item. I have noticed while in the adjustment section, the flippers work normally. Once the screen goes to all digit display and the game locks, flippers won't work.
Last comment. I would do NVRAM if I thought it would help in any way. As I mentioned, when I install a lithium battery and the game locks up, I have to remove the battery to get into the settings menu again. Seems to me that indicates the battery and installation are okay.
Also included the solder side photo of the re-installed Battery board

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1 week later
#35 3 years ago

Just a final heads up
Took your advice and shipped the CPU off to Chris Hibler for NAVRAM and analysis
Thanks for your tip and all your help

2 weeks later
#38 3 years ago

WELL... I'm back!
As discussed, I sent the MPU to Chris Hibler. Re-installed it this morning
Review is at


Video shows the board modified, tested and working fine
Here's what my game looks like after re-installation
Disappointing to say the least
Back to square one. Obviously not the MPU
I did try flipping the ribbon cable to the display on the MPU side as we talked about that cable at one point
Strangely, display stays locked and nothing changes

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#39 3 years ago

One last item for analysis
I did not send the power supply with the MPU
Should this be my next step or is there something I can test first?

#41 3 years ago

Chris, I don't know where the DE/WMS jumper is so can't check that. I did reread the whole thread and PBM40 suggested I press the CPU Reset Button
Grasping at straws as I am, I pressed the reset and Display 1 reads MEM.PROT.FAILURE
Any hints?

#43 3 years ago

Soon as i release the CPU reset, display goes back to all segments lit and locked up. None of the buttons do anything

#46 3 years ago

Slochar!!!!!
You are The Man!!!
Disconnected the door and game went to Attract.
I'll trace and read the harness and replace all three switches
THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH

#49 3 years ago

Thanks for the input Jmckune.
i unplugged the connector to the door and the game works
The memory select switch you reference is on it's own circuit and not on the connector
Thanks again guys
You are the best!!

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