Hey guys -

With a little help from you lads at Pinside, I have my Flying Circus just about 100% up and running ... just a couple of little things to tweak.

Mainly, the one point relay in the head is stuck on. It stays at zero, but is humming (and on) upon start of game.

Wondering what the is the best path/order for troubleshooting this stuck relay might be.

Any advice appreciated!

Thanks - G

Thank you!

That was kind of my thinking ... it’s not a switch on the actual relay, I did check that.

Will check playfield next ... hoping it would not be a score reel issue.

G

Yes - I actually did check that. (Secretly hoping that was the problem!)

Thanks!

G

Great troubleshooting list, Mark!

Will check all out.

Thank you.

G

Observations: (please forgive any rookie misconceptions)

1. It appears none of the one-point switches on playfield are unintentionally closed. (Checked all eight)

2. One-point relay in head is not stuck at game start - it sticks after manually activated. (Unplugging playfield does not release it) It only releases when entire machine is powered down.

3. Also, when this relay is stuck, the solenoid on the 0-9 unit (continuous rotation unit?) also energizes and will not release until machine is powered down. (Not sure if this is normal with a stuck point relay)

4. While the one-point relay is stuck, the ten and one hundred relays are able to manually advance score reels, while the one-point relay remains stuck.

5. Also removed player one score reel (ones) and manually advanced with internal solenoid - movement/advancement seemed normal.

6. New game resets all score reels correctly at start up.

7. Also noticed that pop bumper relay below playfield is energized (and stays energized/does not release) at game start. (Maybe this is normal, (?) but it sounds a bit louder than it should.)

Thanks for all of your help - I’m really trying to take my steps carefully here and not bark up the wrong tree.

G

Thanks guys. It’s a Gottlieb Flying circus.

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Thanks guys - will check out all advice ... might take a couple of days, as my twin seven-year old girls and my wife (not in that order) keep me pretty busy!

FYI
Pop bumper coil - 7.0 Ohm
One point coil - 3.3 Ohm
0-9 unit coil - 3.5 Ohm

All within normal range (?)

G

Which numbers on the coils do you mean? Model numbers?

FYI - Removed one lead from the 0-9 coil and one-point relay still stuck. (No change.)

That red looping wire is not connected to anything, (or have metal contact) it appears to a fix from a previous owner to secure the assembly. Seems stable enough - should probably just leave it alone I think. (See picture)

The score motor seems to be acting properly ... I was having an issue with that, but solved a couple of weeks ago. (Was a misalignment on wheel that was not closing a switch.)

Thank you!

G

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Hmmm - it does look like it is keeping the mechanism from working ....

Note the machine did work for a year after I bought ... then it sat for a while (after my twins were born) and when I fired up, it had developed multiple problems.

As far as the red wire issue, I probably wouldn’t have noticed the lack of “bumper” caused by the rigging.

My knowledge of pinball and the general functioning of the machine has increased tenfold as I have researched how to fix my machine.

So, should I explore the dubious red wire fix? (Keeping in mind that the machine seemed to operate correctly with it, previous to its current issues.)

G

Check out video link ...

https://vimeo.com/508526696

There is nothing attached to the shaft ... also no hole for access to playfield. And notice the worn area above it ... maybe it’s a playfield knocker?

Also note that those captive balls never get released ... you hit the bottom one with the play ball and it knocks them side to side ... all five on one side wins points.

G

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Howard - without disassembling the score reel mech, I was able to put a piece of cardboard to open the circuit on EOS switch on the “ones” score reel.

With the EOS switch left in open position, the one-point relay does not stick! It advances the point reels and the 0-9 stepper does not stick. (Seems like normal operation.)

I’m a bit reticent to take the reel apart to see why it’s not being activated (cue the flying springs across my basement lol) ... did I read somewhere that the reel can actually operate without an EOS switch? If so, a bad idea?

Is reel tricky to disassemble ? ... I found a description on Clay’s site (pinrepair.com) but it was a hair vague.

G

Switch is kind of hard to get to (circuit board is in the way) but I will give it a shot.

Thank you!

G

Well, I’ll be damned - it is a ball lock ... the coil controls a little gate that traps two balls at a time.

The red wire was defeating the gate it but holding spring down, keeping in in its lowered position.

I removed it and the little gate popped right up!

The think one on the leads to the coil had been lifted ... I ended up soldering it back on the lug recently, as I noticed it was loose and thought I had knocked it off during my troubleshooting explorations.

The coil must have been already disconnected when I bought the machine and played it for a year, yes?

In other words, the person who defeated that ball capture feature would have done it physically (wire restricting spring loaded gate) and electronically. (Removing a lead from the coil.)

Anyway Alex, good eye!

Removed the restricting wire did not change the locked pop bumper coil, though. (that is next focus)

Thanks again guys!!

Greatly appreciating the help and support, as so am gaining more confidence to dig into areas that were too intimidating not so long ago.

G

The only coil with an issue now (stuck on at start) is the pop bumper control relay, marked R20-5 #30.

All switches on this relay seem to be adjusted correctly.

Okay - dumb question: this stuck pop bumper control coil (or any stuck coil) is stuck because on an accidentally *closed* switch/circuit, not an accidentally open switch/circuit, yes?

That being said, I’m not exactly sure how to troubleshoot quickly ... makes sense to trace all wires back to next immediate switch in series, and check for misadjusted switch (stuck closed?) will also check for errand solder that may be accidentally closing a circuit.

Does that make sense? (The best way to troubleshoot?)

Thanks - G

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Ok - did some more research and I think I know what to do ... thank you all for your help and advice. Greatly greatly appreciated.

G