(Topic ID: 202652)

Trouble shooting Power Play

By Sonora70

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 10 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by BigAl56
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 years ago

Trying to bring a Power Play project back to life. I'm more of an em guy, but I want to learn some solid state repair as well. I have had it for some time collecting the boards etc that I needed to make it complete. I checked all the boards I bought in my Strikes and Spares as I bought them and they seem to be fine. Note that it has been a few months since I checked them.

The game is mostly there with just a few issues lingering......

1st: The up and down post are not working. The up post is not working at all, the down post is energizing when the 10 point chime is energized. This occurs both by activing switches on the playfield AND during the solenoid self test. All of the wires were cut off of the right side flipper and the up and down post coils. With the help of other pinsiders in another post I think I have them all wired correctly based on pictures they posted for me. I've been trying to "read" the schematics online, but I cannot understand the logic and especially can't find a link between the 10 chime coil and the down post coil.

2nd: The upper right flipper is not firing.

3rd: Various lights on the playfield are not coming on.

I would like to get the up and down post situation worked out first. Again, neither post is working when they should, but the down post is energizing with the 10 pt chime. Any ideas??????

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

I think you have 3 unrelated problems. Lets tackle them one at a time.
What happens when you put the machine in solenoid test? Do the firing coils match the solenoid numbers on the display? From your description it sounds like you still have some wires off.
According to the chart on page 15 of the manual, #4 is Down, 5 is 10-chime, and 16 is up. Run the self test and compare the numbers to the firing coils.

In the solenoid test neither the up or down post solenoids fire. The down post is firing at the same time the 10 point chime fires. 4 and 16 are both silent during the test. When #5 in the test fires, both the 10 pt chime and the down post fire.

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Almost sounds like you have cables reversed. J2 and J5 on the solenoid driver board are both 15 pin connectors. are they keyed? If you have the cables correct the up post is a Black/Red wire and should connect to pin J5 pin 7. I would check that one connection and see if there is a blk/red wire in the connector at that spot.

Will check and report back. Thanks

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Almost sounds like you have cables reversed. J2 and J5 on the solenoid driver board are both 15 pin connectors. are they keyed? If you have the cables correct the up post is a Black/Red wire and should connect to pin J5 pin 7. I would check that one connection and see if there is a blk/red wire in the connector at that spot.

The connector is at the correct place. I have fixed one issue but the other remains. A wire was in the wrong place on the connect on J1. It was in pin 2 instead of pin 3 as it should be according to schematic. So...the down post is working correctly now.

The remaining related issue is the up post. I determined that the transistor SE9302 (Q17) on the solenoid board was bad. I replaced it. After I replaced the transistor I turned the game on and it blew the fuse at F4 on the rectifier board and also blew the new transistor. I replaced the transistor again and put a new fuse in and this time I took the black/red wire out of the connector J5 pin 7 and the machine booted correctly.

I physically traced the black/red wire all the way from the solenoid board to the relay thinking I would find a short. Everything looks good. I'm getting continuity from the backbox to the relay.

What could be causing the transistor Q17 and the fuse F4 to blow every time this wire is connected? I had to connect a bunch of wires that were cut loose at the up/down post coil and relay as well as the right side flipper. Based on pictures sent to me from other pinsiders it is wired correctly now. Could one of the diodes on the coils be bad and causing this? I have to assume that it is something on the playfield causing it? I considered running a new wire from the connector at J5-7 to the relay to see if there is a short somewhere. Thanks for your help.

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

Have you tested for resistance (ohms) on the relay that wire goes to? If there's a diode on the relay, have you tested the diode? Actually, i would imagine the diode is on the board. I think you have to remove a diode leg from the board to test it properly, so if i were you I'd replace the diode whether or not it's bad. Couldn't hurt! It's gotta be either a bad coil, a bad diode, a bad chip that's drives the transistor, or some sort of wiring short, i guess. Check the schematic, i imagine there's also a resistor or capacitor or 2 in that circuit as well (on the solenoid driver/power supply board). Not sure if there's much else that would cause that! Good luck, and let us know what you find.

I may have found the culprit. The relay coil I just ordered, a GA-31-2000 is showing resistance of .3 to 0 ohms. According to the chart on flippers.com it should be 47. Being a new coil I never suspected it being the problem. It looks like new but.....

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