Link... suggestions? Thanks!

You guys could use my ModPS in order to tie it into the GI. I'll be making a 9v dc interface cable that will just bring the 12v from the game down to 9v.

Tonight I'm doing some final design work to see if I can get it working with Insert lights (and possibly game switches). But at a minimum, it's current capabilities will work perfectly for tying this mod to GI as well as protecting things by having it fused.

I plan on shipping very soon.

It's on the cover page of www.dkpinball.com.

Let me know what you think. Thanks!

Mike
DK Custom Pinball
www.dkpinball.com

Some interesting info thanks for posting this info for us!

It was me that did this a while back with the interference results. After a week of being unable to play, pulled it all out and it's just sitting on the floor now. I'm most likely going to order this driver and wire combination and see what happens. If it works, then I'll have to see if it's the wire or transformer that caused my problems.

I would go with a glue gun. Easy to add, easy to remove, dries clear.

Yeah I thought it looked great.
Better in person.

Markmon did you show them your tron arcade mod also?

Very well moded pro. I would never buy an LE after seeing his with mods.

I am sure I said this before but very nice job.

Thanks again for sharing

So after googling for about an hour or so all things point to RF interference. I'd suggest trying to shield your driver with tin foil or running it outside of the game first to see if you get any better results (before spending more money)

I want a Tron Pro someday so I'm looking forward to the results

Good luck!

Foil Does not work. I believe it is the noise sent through the wire. I will know more when I try other drivers.

Hey markmon - I notice you install your PBL cup holders on the opposite sides so that they are in the front of the machine instead of the side; do you find they get in the way at all during play?

Really? I will have to eat a Dolphin and play and see if it takes me back as well

Holy cow that BLUE. Awesome!!!

Any update on this ckorth ??

I modded my Tron pro ramps with Kimballs EL wire with the sound controller. It is a great look and the sound control works great. I used clear scotch tape to attach the wire to the ramps - I saw the other suggestions of museum putty, hot glue, glue spots - I tried the u-glu dashes and glue dots from hobby lobby - but both failed or looked bad. Clear scotch tape is nearly invisible against the ramp sides and holds best. The great thing is that tape wraps around the wire outside, and the ramp sides aren't totally clear and hide the tape well.

I also added Kimballs lit recognizer, and a four way splitter for the 12v.

The 12v splitter allows the two kimball bods, a Laseriffic topper, and room for either a flynn sign or whatever?

I have the pinhacks replacement cab and video screen - which is an incredible upgrade.
I added the sticker for the 3 bank, and changed out the light cycles.

pics are at http://s1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii630/dgarrett0/tron%20pro%20mod%20-%20kimball%20EL%20wire%20install%20steps/

Dan

Iv only heard passing comments about his mod. Its not on his site. Would you care to do an in-depth review and let those of us who are waiting to see what the best ramp wire mod is know whats up?

Ok - I've had a few requests here and on RGP for a more detailed review on Kimballs EL wire. Kim's put a sound reaction controller to pulse the wire light to frequency and volume of sound (i.e. reacts to the music and ball strikes) - the execution is well done on the wiring and easy to install. Kim did a good, neat job with the connectors that tie into the end of the EL wire. The blue and yellow EL connectors come together and end in one 12v connector that can go to the factory 12v plug near the front right of the cab. I opted for Kim's extra splitters for $8 a connector - I got one with 4x 12v plugs that come into a single connector to the 12v accessory plug (for me I've got 12v mods that include a laseriffic topper, Kim's recognizer and Kim's EL wire + a spare 12v for a FLynn side or ??). I also have the pinhacks tronarcade mod, but that goes to the accessory wire in the left backbox.

The install of the EL wire to the ramps was a breeze. I used the factory drilled holes through the PF at the side of each ramp, using the inside hole first, and just routed the wire up and followed around the ramp, with the end of the wire coming back through the outside hole. The blue wire started and ended on the left side, Yellow on the right. You could widen the holes to accomodate removing the ramps with the EL wire attached, as the connectors need just a bit bigger hole - I opted to just use the existing diameter holes knowing I'll have to remove the EL wire to remove ramps in the future.

I used clear scotch tape, pressing the wire against the underside lip of the ramp and surrounding with a strip that centered on the wire, and smoothed down the side of the ramp, and under the lip.
Zip ties would work ok, if you swapped out pro ramps for drilled LE ramps. Keeping the pro ramps was the way to go for me - I tried glue-dots, u-glu dashes, hot glue, "invisible" scotch tape - all were poor adhesive and looked messy. Clear scotch tape is the best, and nearly invisible on the ramp sides (which aren't really clear and smooth, which helps hide the tape even more).

The pics at the photobucket link a few posts back in this thread, show the goo stuff v. opaque tape v. clear tape. I went back and removed all glue dots after these pics, using goo gone or oops as needed, and went with clear tape everywhere and it looks great.

Kim doesn't have this on his site, because Chris and I were one or two of the first to try it - and we've experimented with length of wire and how to attach it, and have just posted some pics. Kim is working on instructions and how to package the kits - which is why its not on his site yet.

Hope this helps those looking for the "right" light wire mod. I looked at RGP and pinside, checked out some of the controlled light options, etc. and went with Kims because its a better look and reacts better with the game when its sound activated. The controllers also have a sensitivity setting, so you can have them "hear" louder or pulse quicker, which lets you have the ramp wire react to your gameplay tastes. Great to have the pulse timed to the beat and reacting to the ball banging around.

Dan G

Kim just built me one of these as well. I was placing a large order with him and practically begged him to make me one. I did purchase a set of LE ramps to make things a bit easier and more "authentic" if that's possible. I'll be installing it next week. Can't wait to see it in action.
I'm pretty sure he's preparing to package this set for sale on his site soon.

This is where I first saw it:

Actually looks awesome! I had been set on waiting for the PIG controlled LED wire mod that another pinsider was developing, but this has me second guessing that. It seems easy to set up. I think it will come down to price in the end.

I am not sure what the price is for the kit that Kim is selling, but I am pretty sure the LED kit that ecurtz is working on will cost more.

I'm still getting the PIG regardless. Its ability to control other mods is still very cool. I'm going to hook up my lightcycles to it so they trigger in sequence with the ramp switches instead of being on all the time and burning out. Also the Flynn sign and Kim's recognizer will both benefit from being more interactive with the PIG.
In the end, I'm trying several EL wire mods. First, coaster guy's version, but with individual hook-ups to the PIG, Kim's sound activated mod mentioned above, and eventually I might try the true fiber optic version that ecurtz is working on with programming.
I figure I'll just sell the two I don't stick with, but all will look awesome.

No doubt. Kim's kit was fairly reasonable, although he probably gave me a break as it was a bit of a prototype/early unit and I had already bought a bunch of other stuff. If I had to guess, I would imagine the fiber optic version is going to be double... but still much cheaper than a Tron LE!

Im pretty sure too. But if Kim's version is several hundred dollars difference, it give me pause.

Nobody knows what Eli's final fiber optic mod is going to cost so it's hard to comment. What I really like about Kim' mod is how it's a constant orange/yellow and blue color scheme, but still seems integrated.
Eli's will be much closer to the LE, but who knows how the color changing will work. The good news is that he will likely be able to program whatever colors he wants to coincide with several modes. So, if he doesn't want pink, he simply wont use it. In this repsect, it could be even better than the LE lighting. He could have orange and blue for lightcyle mb and standard gameplay, red for disc mb, green for quorra mb, white for Gem/Zuse and so on. The LE does not do this to my knowledge.

Is there a website for Eli's Final Fibert optic Mod? Also when is it suppose to be available?

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wthack-tron-pro-near-98501

I used the pblife Orange kit. My son said half should be blue. I'm not sure if I like the blue or orange powder coat better. Might lean a hair towards the blue.

Tron_Side_off.jpg

I am looking to have the el wire that i am putting into the machine, along with the light cycles to start glowing only after the start switch is pressed. There are a lot of reasons for this and if you arent intending to use a PIG, and just want these lights on all the time, my idea may be a solution for a lot of reasons.

#1, the EL wire has a life span, and for those of you who have it set to be on constant and have your machine on for a portion of the day, the el wire will begin to loose its luminocity unlike the fiber kits which will be out soon.
#2 the light cycles also will have a light span, as these bikes were sold as ornaments with a momentary, and could eventually burn out if left on, especially with the extra .5 volts to the board.

SO here is my idea, and if someone could think of a trigger point, will work

I want to set up a relay for each mod. The el wire inverter will be on one, and the light cycle power feed on another. We interrup the positive feed to the inverter with the relay, and the same on another relay for the 5v to the bikes. Now we just need a trigger to enable these relay circuits.

I want them to enable when a game is started and disable when a game is finished. In this logic you can enjoy the light show, but not have the el wire constantly glowing when it isnt being used. Now we know of a few items which receive power when the start button is pressed. We get music, and we get the high voltage circuit enabled that feeds coils.

Real question from someone who knows pins, is where is a safe circuit to use to trigger these relays!! I was thinking maybe just using a high voltage relay that can handle the coil voltage as a trigger. My other idea was looking for 12v, or 5v which only is on when the game is in play. Are there any power points in this game, features, etc preferably DC that i can use. Any ideas? I really want to see this work and i think it might be something others with 12v knowledge who arent looking to uses a PIG may want to implement. The only thing holding this idea from working is a safe circuit to tap off of to trigger my relays. Will AC voltage even work to trigger them?

Thanks, and i hope for some insight. Sorry for the long post, but you can tell i really want to see this work!

Hello. Im getting the ghost scoring with the el wire plugged into the service outlet. If i power the wire using a 12v battery i do not get any interference. Please help!!

Just wondering if anyone was able to power this using the GI