The hallmark are diecast I think, while the disney brand from toys r us were plastic. Both work.

100% wrong.

The hallmark, bar none, are the best option for you to have them in the game and not look completely ridiculous, and your ONLY option if you want lighted cycles.

The Spinmaster toys at similar scale (and that come on the machine from the factory) are die-cast. The plastic ones that Spinmaster made are GINORMOUS for a pinball machine, like literally four times the size of the Hallmark ones, which are almost double the size of the die-cast ones. They're NOT useable in the game IMO.

Why would you "thumbs down" a dude for chiming in?

kits are available. DO NOT BUT THEM FROM KIMBALLS PINBALLS! You will regret it. Pinball decals have them and usually you can get them from pinsiders pretty cheap.

I guess I'm confusing "thumbs down" with "tilt", then. Regardless, I don't think northvibe deserved either for trying to help you out.

omg...rtfm.. seriously.

Thumbs down = "I disagree" which I CLEARLY DO SINCE HIS INFORMATION IS WRONG..

Jesus, you people...

Exactly.

Yes. they just unscrew out. No big deal.

What's wrong with Kim's? I know the guy, (I think he might even have a username on here?) if it's a legit issue other than price (lol) and he's still building them I can advise him there's an issue. It's been a long time since I looked at his site since I'm a DIY type person.

I thought people were using the non hallmark ones. I don't have mine yet, so I didn't know for sure.

I would love to. I bought all the Spinmaster toys, found out that the vast majority are just WAY too big, even if they would fit under the glass.. If you have them and still want to use them for something, my best suggestion is a custom topper. Of course, the die-cast ones fit, but it's really hard to put lights in a diecast toy.

Are these the "stock" ones stern used?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-toys-closeout-insanity

or did they have another toy? I haven't looked to heavily into the modding of the toys, those are plastic I think. Can those be modded? Or do you kind of want the pre-lit/led ones so you just swap to directly powering the unit.

All the vehicles in that pic are die cast. Stern used the light runner (Bottom right), the three light cycles above it (Blue orange yellow), and the enemy plane in the top left (orange), depending on when you got your game.

If you're persistent enough, you can do anything. But you will never make the wheels glow on a die cast toy short of putting EL wire around the rims, which to me just looks cheesy. They're solid metal. It's CRAP metal, but it's still metal. The Hallmark toys are already set up to run close to 5v, I've never seen ANY issue with them being run at 5v (NOT GI, WHICH IS 6.3 OR SOMETHING... THEY DON'T LIKE THAT!), some people even put leds in there. I'm too lazy for that, it's too risky for me to tear up a 30 buck mod to try it. The hallmark cycles are already *extremely* fragile as-is, IMO. We had to superglue pedals and other things back on when doing ours the second time around. I'm pretty sure Sam's head fell off and had to be glued too.

If people are interested I'm confident I can make a set of light cycles that light up the cycle as well as the driver, same size as the originals -- so using the original mounts, etc. All you'd have to do is clip to the insert / GI socket of your choice. I know these Hallmark pieces are getting harder to find, and they unfortunately burn out after ~100 hours it seems.

The ones I put on 5v on my Tron that I sold over a year and a half ago still work... that game had way more than 100 hours on it. Hell. It had 30+ hours on it just from TPF right before I sold it. It's been in two other collectors hands and they still work, and they are wired for constant power. It sucks, but the issue really is between 6.3v and 5v. You can't use insert or GI power on these little things if you want them to live.

+5v from the aux power connector is good. Not running them constantly and only triggering them via the PIG2 is WAY better.

Your stuff is awesome. That might be a tough choice.

Yes, totally true! If you've converted your Hallmark cycles to 6.3v or are running them on a 5v power source you definitely have nothing to worry about. If not, then do so ASAP!!! or they'll burn out for sure. Just a heads up.

I'll tinker with this idea on one of the cycles and see what I can come up with. Always nice to have an alternative, and some people like the smaller cycles anyway. These will essentially be stock cycles that light up. I'll keep everyone posted.

- B

SIA for this long winded diatribe but I'm really getting tired of hearing QuarterGrabber's bashing and diarrhea of the mouth in nearly every TRON MOD topic that I happen to make a TRON MOD for.

Ryan,

LOOK: Let's set the record straight -
After 18 detailed emails discussing the TRON LC's, how they are made, how are they installed, who has the best ones, what Voltage are they, where do they connect etc. (which is all OK, as I dig taking about Pins in general & how my MOD's and others work).

I offered you a set of USED Hallmark LC's w/Plug & Play Wiring Harnesses that the Timing Circuit & LED's in the LC's had been burned out in, I told you that they had been completely disassembled and had all the LED's replaced with brighter LED's for $150, you knowingly and gladly accepted that offer fully understanding that the LC's had been disassembled, re-LED'ed & reassembled!
I'd be more than happy to post ALL our email exchanges chronologically if that would help refresh/jog your memory of the chain of events.

Of course this was all AFTER you had already ordered them online from Joey@Pinball Decals Inc.
You cried to Joey that you couldn't afford them and had changed your mind (Hell I even gave you Joey's Ph #), while it really was more like:
Hey Joey I found them cheaper somewhere else & don't want yours anymore.

Joey & I are friends so I know what you said to him and I also know that he was nice enough to cancel your order AND give you a full refund for his Hallmark Light Cycles.
The PDI LC's ARE Awesome BTW as are most of PDI's MOD's - most of their MOD's are not available anywhere else BUT PDI.
Hell I've bought many of Joey's MOD's (+ I make some for him;-}).

Following your comment that "the front tire is warped", I asked you to send me photos so I could see what you were trying to describe. After receiving them I agreed and told you I was sorry that the front tire had indeed separated and that it may have happened in shipping or maybe after it was installed as it didn't leave my Shop that way
In that same email I said if you're not happy with it please send it back & I'll gladly refund you.
I offered to fix it all you had to do was return it & I'd ship it back on my nickel, no comment from you.
I also said I didn't think you would notice it once it was installed in your Game as it seems to be on the very bottom of the front wheel so please try it and let me know what you think, but again no comments from you.

Here was your reply with the photos:
"Here are the pics right after I took it out of the box. The clu light cycle and recognizer were ok I only had a problem with the Flynn light cycle, which is the hard one to get now. And for that reason I don't want to go through all the crap of sending everything back then waiting a month to get new ones from somewhere else".

For those with inquiring minds please see QuarterGrabber's photos below for "the front tire is warped" - for a physical size reference those are #4 Screw Heads, they are .207 wide, the Phillips Screw Head Slots widths are .111 x .111, so just slightly over 1/10th of an inch and those Screw Slots look wider (IMHO) than the tire separation QuarterGrabber has been complaining about for waaaay too long.

I keep offering this JackA$$ a full refund & he keeps on dissing me on PinSide but STILL won't return my LC's for a full refund???

Like YOU asked I drilled & tapped the LC's at NO CHARGE for you so they would fit your Factory Plastics.
Like YOU asked I gave you a $13 refund on the shipping as I was able to fit everything into a USPS Small Flat Rate Box instead of a USPS Medium FRB ($19.95 vs. $32.95).
In hind sight probably not a great move on my part as maybe that was the cause of the Flynn LC front tire separating & his right arm coming unglued (O' MY GOD!!) but you were all about saving money & I tried to accommodate you as much as possible.

This is the last time I'll make this offer to you so hopefully you'll shut the F$%K UP once and for all !!!

Please, PLEase, PLEASE send my TRON LC MOD back to me & I'll refund your freaking money as soon as they are received back here in the Great State of Texas in the condition they left.

Pin - Kim
http://www.KimballsPinballs.com/products.html

http://www.pinballdecals.com/

IMG_0363.JPG
IMG_0359.JPG
IMG_0337.JPG
IMG_0360-739.jpg
IMG_0337-28.JPG

Go ahead and post ALL the emails (future note to customers of kimballs, nothing of his customers is confidential) but make sure it is ALL of them because I have them all too including the one where you dis Joey at PInball Decals telling me he over charges and gets all his mods from you anyway. And make sure you don't alter them at all like I know you will. You should really get your facts straight before making a long winded unintelligent post as the one above we are so used to. First I never cried to Joey about anything, I told him I was buying them from you instead, of course after you gave me his personal, non business cell number and told me not to tell him you gave it to me, some "friend" you are. You are right about one thing and possibly only one thing, Joey was a super nice guy and refunded my money no questions asked unlike you making me go through a pay-pal dispute, you should take a page out of his book on customer service. My complaints weren't that the tire was warped, it was that the tire was separated permanently with a big gap in the middle and that the Flynn figure was broken in pieces, which of course you didn't post a pic of conveniently. You never initially offered to fix it at all, although it sounds good on pinside, when I told you what condition it arrived in you told me, that it was the post offices fault because it happened in shipping and I should call them about it. Only AFTER I started a pay-pal dispute did you offer anything. All I wanted was the blue light cycle replaced, I wanted to keep everything else. But you knew pay-pal would want me to send everything back for the refund. I asked you to just replace the blue light cycle and I wanted to keep everything else. You being a prick and knowing the pay-pal rules told me "No, I want you to send EVERYTHING back", you NEVER gave me the option to just replace the blue light cycle, although it sounds nice in a story on pinside. I decided to cut my losses and just keep it since I had no issue with the other products that came with it and to never deal with you again. As far as your "offer" I would only want to return the blue light cycle which you never gave me as a option to, but now knowing your shady character, I wouldn't want to take the risk without pay-pal protection. To this day I have never had a worse experience with a "company" then I did with you, worst ever. I would not recommend you to anyone, worst customer service I've ever had, ever, pinball related or not. I buy A LOT of pinball mods (because I'm so cheap and worry about money ) and I've never ever had a problem, except with you and your horrible customer service. Your turn as I know you will need the last word, but I can do this all night if you want.

Like Frax says
If you're running them on 6.3V, you're talking GI Voltage & that's 6.3VAC & its too much voltage.

#1 They don't seem to be as bright on 6.3VAC as running them on 5VDC.
#2 They will definitely burn out sooner due to the higher AC Voltage plus you're essentially slamming them with +6.3V and then -6.3V, 60 times a second or 120 Voltage changes per second total.

These things were designed to run on 4.5VDC + Coin Cell batteries don't have much amperage to speak of.

If you're running them on the Games 5VDC you should be fine BUT just to be safe I usually add in a 30 Ohm 1/4W Resistor & have yet to have one burn out.

I can't tell any difference in brightness between running them on 5VDC with or without the 30 Ohm Resistor.

If the LC's LED's do die its usually within the first few dozen or so times you run them - not to mention all the LC's I've received DOA right out of the box.

I can't say I've ever had an air ball go up there

We've owned two Trons. One of them spent three days (and 650+ plays) at the Texas Pinball Festival. Total between the two I'd say that we've had well over 1400 games played. Neither of us have ever seen or heard of anyone seeing a ball anywhere near either Cycle. No damage to any of the Cycles, either.

Absolutely not your fault & sorry I am tired of QG's comments and ranted in your post.

I've never seen a Ball come even close to the LC's on TRON-LE unlike some other Pins (can't speak to that issue on TRON-Pro).

The LC's are plastic models poorly assembled by hand in china, most have come with at least an leg, arm, both legs, arms, or all fallen off but some have come so glued together (a few quite literally covered in glue) that I have destroyed them trying to open them up to simply MOD the push-button switch.

I'd be more than happy to send you my installation instructions that show you where NOT to Drill the LC's for mounting as its very easy to Drill into the LED's or the LED's Circuitry - just PM me your email address & I'd be happy to send you the file.

popcorn-sock-1.gif

Hrm. I may need that. When I did my original cycles I actually drilled completely through the wheel well. Apparently I got lucky and didn't damage any circuity, just looked a little goofy with the screw poking through.

This time around, I knew that I did NOT want the screw poking through, so I tried to drill partway through, but the stupid cycle kept trying to separate at the wheel, so I stopped. I've tried hot glue and museum wax to keep the thing in place but neither are strong enough. Poor Clu just can't seem to keep himself upright! The real issue is I have the very last run, the holes are in different places since they just ziptied the stupid fighter jet to the plastic. And they didn't even have it upright, it was upside down lol.

Does anyone have pictures they can post to compare the standard vs the upgrade?

FWIW......Kim and Joey have always treated me right......bought TRONLE backbox kit and lit Recognizer from Kim.....worked great....already had Hallmark cycles on mine when purchased....both failed shortly after purchase, but it was due to glued switch, not voltage.....I bought new ones off eBay ( and a spare set) and don't seem that scarce ( yet).....modded them myself.....hot melt to Pinside ramp protectors...done and completely stable...Kim was very helpful and product was ( us) awesome...

Been dealing w Joey for years on various machine mods, and of course, get my
PDI from him.....great guy, as well, stuff is pricey, but has some unique stuff ( TZ custom lamp housing one example) and always top notch.....

Appreciate both their contributions to our hobby and recommend them both....my 2 cents...mark

"Pinbits" not " Pinside".....I do this spelling crap on my iPad at least once a day.....sorry

Very easy to run 5VDC mods using the 6.3V ac from the GI . Simply add two diodes. Run one wire from the GI AC to the positive terminal with the white band of the diode going to the positive terminal. Then run the other wire from the GI AC to the negative terminal with the white band on the diode going to the GI AC. This half wave rectifies the GI from 6.3 AC to a rough 5 V DC (should be approx 4.5-5V DC)

Yes I agree Joey is a really nice guy with great customer service. I disagree with your brown nosing of Kim though....... my 2 cents.

Not brown nosing at all....I had no problems....his product line is limited for me (the machines I own) and don't even know if I'll buy anything from him again unless he has something I want. If he does, I won't hesitate.....mark

I would expect this could make some LED's flicker something fierce. Am I mistaken?

The late runs of Tron didn't even have 2 lightcycles, they put the buggy thing in instead. I wouldn't hold my breath for any improvements to the cycles if/when TronVE pops up. I would bet on a lit recognizer if anything, but not much else.

They'll make them by molding from the original ones like they did the figures for IM.

New guy here, new guy question. When you say "TronVE," where does that fall in the hierarchy of Pro / LE etc..? Would that be a higher than a LE, lower than a Pro/standard or what?

Thanks for the edumacation!

Likely 100% correct here I'd imagine. They will probably be the diecast toys in appearance, but molded and cast in a plastic of some sort.

TRONVE is strictly some letters put together, and strictly speculation .....excessive speculation, at this point......it is not even a real title, until Stern says it is......that's where it falls....sorry to sound harsh, but even if I didn't own one (TRONLE)this topic goes on and on and on and on. Aren't there really nice Tron's out there now, that are still being sold, reasonably, on the secondary market? I just don't get it.....

Whew...rough day at work, and a great way to vent......flame suit on, if required......sorry OP , but I've been accused of " brown nosing" when simply stating my experience with a modder, and really just don't get the continued, repetitive stuff about a non existent machine....nothing personal at all......mark

Does anyone want to post a picture of a machine with and without the mod for a comparison?