I'm getting some quotes from a manufacturer so I can stop sweating getting PIGS built and start designing again.
I'm currently all caught up and I have a few ready to ship if I get orders.
It's tough to say exactly how far "outside the lines" you can go with the light cycles. The safest bet is to get as close to a 4.5v DC power supply as you can. If the chip they're using to control the on/off timer is designed to run on 5v dc, then peaking at 6.3v is less likely to damage anything than if it's running on chip(s) designed to run at 3.3v dc.
If you're running a TRON LE, the best solution (cheapest and reasonably safe) is to determine the current draw of the light cycle, and then choose the appropriate resistor to drop the 5v to 4.5v, and solder directly to the LED insert boards.
If you're running a TRON PRO, the easiest safe solution would be to buy a PIG to drive the light cycles. You still need to choose the appropriate resistor to drop the voltage to 4.5v. The cheapest solution is to create a small circuit with a bridge rectifier, a capacitor to smooth the voltage, and a couple of resistors to act as a voltage divider to convert the 6.3v AC to 4.5v dc. However, you're not going to get as clean a 4.5vdc this way as the light matrix is noisy as hell compared to the 5v coming from the game's power supply.
If it were my game, the PRO that is, I would use the PIG and just go with the 5v and not worry about getting 4.5v. I'm sure the .5v variance (10%) is within manufacturers spec and would work fine.
If I had an LE. I would just use the 5v coming off the inserts, again, without worrying about dropping it to 5v.
One guy's opinion.