(Topic ID: 17422)

TRON Halmark Light Cycles question


By marksf123

7 years ago



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  • 100 posts
  • 34 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Sc1f1
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    There are 100 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
    #1 7 years ago

    How long do you think the light bulb will last if it is on all the time during game play? Has anyone taken one apart to see how hard it is to replace the bulb? or how many bulbs are in the toy? What kind of bulb in in there?

    #2 7 years ago

    Won't last forever. I ordered a couple spares.

    #3 7 years ago

    I'm assuming/hoping there are led's inside. Long life expectancy if so.

    #4 7 years ago

    Umm good question.. I bought an extra set of spares just incase one didnt work.. let me see if I can tell if they are led's

    #5 7 years ago

    My CLU cycle stopped lighting up after about 7 months - not sure if it was because of the wear and tear of having them constantly on with the slightly higher 5 volts (the batteries power them at 4.5 volts) or if it was just a faulty unit.

    I had a couple spares, so I replaced it. But to mitigate further failure, I've now hooked them up to their corresponding inserts, so they'll flash, etc, and not be constantly on. Also looking forward to using Mike's PIG to see what other options I may have.

    #6 7 years ago
    Quoted from Gexchange:

    Umm good question.. I bought an extra set of spares just incase one didnt work.. let me see if I can tell if they are led's

    I'm thinking that these must be LED lit as they turn off instantaneously without the light lag of an incandescent bulb. (Plus their level of brightness seems more than a typical bulb)

    #7 7 years ago
    Quoted from Tommi_Gunn:

    Won't last forever. I ordered a couple spares.

    +2
    I got two spares each after finding them cheap in eBay.

    Also, I'm wiring mine to 3-pin molex connectors designed to plug into the PIG.
    This means they will light up during a specific mode or with specific lamps, but not on all the time.

    #8 7 years ago

    Thanks - I guess i have to go to the backyard to pick some more money off the tree so I can get a few spares....

    Also when is the pig going to be available - that looks interesting (if I can figure out how it hooks up in the game).

    #9 7 years ago

    Reminds me, I still have to install mine.

    Anyone have a link/thread on how to install these?

    #10 7 years ago
    Quoted from marksf123:

    Thanks - I guess i have to go to the backyard to pick some more money off the tree so I can get a few spares....
    Also when is the pig going to be available - that looks interesting (if I can figure out how it hooks up in the game).

    The bikes aren't too expensive... unless they've gone up? I got mine for about $25 for a pair shipped.
    Mike sent out an update today that he has all his parts and is assembling and shipping the PIGs in order of purchase.

    Quoted from RobT:

    Reminds me, I still have to install mine.
    Anyone have a link/thread on how to install these?

    If you want them on all the time, try this method:
    http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-help-newbie-how-to-hook-up-tron-cycles

    #11 7 years ago

    Well, I don't know how you could ever replace anything in the light cycle. It is not meant to be opened. My first clu cycle did not light up. I missed the return deadline.

    Well, now I can confirm that it does use LEDs.

    1 light cycle was killed in the making of this post

    IMAG1427.jpg

    #12 7 years ago
    Quoted from Boatshoe:

    Well, now I can confirm that it does use LEDs.

    1 light cycle was killed in the making of this pos

    Boatshoe,

    I thank you for all the TRON owners - thanks for taking it apart. It is off to ebay for me to buy some spares.

    #13 7 years ago

    Amazon has the CLU cycle pretty cheap right now if you want to buy some spares. They were cheap enough where I bought 3 extras. I am still trying to find a cheap place for the other light cycle. If you know of a place send me a link.

    #14 7 years ago

    Nice sacrifice! Thanks boatshoe.
    Clu is easy enough to find. It's the other one that seems to be scarce.

    #15 7 years ago

    No problem. I really tried to open it without breaking it at first. It won't just split down the middle and pop apart. Finally I just started hacking away at it.

    I am searching the internet for an alternate mod source. It's apparent the hallmark bikes won't last and aren't going to be in great supply. So far I haven't had any luck finding anything.

    I haven't installed my light cycles yet. When I do I guess I'll just enjoy them while they stay lit!

    #16 7 years ago

    Has anybody tried replacing lightcycles from some other source than Hallmark? If these are indeed getting harder to get, maybe there is a better/different solution out there.

    Quoted from Boatshoe:

    I am searching the internet for an alternate mod source. It's apparent the hallmark bikes won't last and aren't going to be in great supply. So far I haven't had any luck finding anything.

    Yep, this is exactly what Im wondering.

    #17 7 years ago

    Robt.
    Remove batteries from cycles.
    Drill small hole in bottom of battery cover to feed wires through for + &- voltage. Next solder a seperate wire to each battery terminal for voltage (1 wire to one terminal for + voltage, other wire to other terminal for ground)
    Run wires through game and tap into 5v. I tapped into the same harness that is powering my lcd scren.
    Remove old diecast lightcycles and put on your office desk so you have something to look forward to win you get home.
    I screwed 1 smal hole in the bottom of each lightcycle and used the standoff that was used with the diecast cycles to mount it to the plastic.
    Finally super glue down the on/off button (the identity disc) so the cycle is illuminated all the time.

    They look badass!

    #18 7 years ago

    Anyone selling this mod?

    #19 7 years ago
    Quoted from hassellcastle:

    Finally super glue down the on/off button (the identity disc) so the cycle is illuminated all the time.

    What type of glue did you use?

    #20 7 years ago

    Super glue gel. I think that what its called

    #21 7 years ago
    Quoted from hassellcastle:

    Robt.
    Remove batteries from cycles.
    Drill small hole in bottom of battery cover to feed wires through for + &- voltage. Next solder a seperate wire to each battery terminal for voltage (1 wire to one terminal for + voltage, other wire to other terminal for ground)
    Run wires through game and tap into 5v. I tapped into the same harness that is powering my lcd scren.
    Remove old diecast lightcycles and put on your office desk so you have something to look forward to win you get home.
    I screwed 1 smal hole in the bottom of each lightcycle and used the standoff that was used with the diecast cycles to mount it to the plastic.
    Finally super glue down the on/off button (the identity disc) so the cycle is illuminated all the time.
    They look badass!

    Thanks!

    How did you tie into the 5v when your lcd arcade screen mod was already using it? Did you have to get a splitter?

    Can you give more details on how you mounted them? It will probably make more sense when I actually look at them.

    #22 7 years ago

    I got a feeling amazon is going to sell out.

    TILTed post. Sign in to be able to view TILTed posts.
    #24 7 years ago
    Quoted from RobT:

    Thanks!

    How did you tie into the 5v when your lcd arcade screen mod was already using it? Did you have to get a splitter?

    I am going to use Kimballs splitter going into the 5V by the coin door. I am getting a 5 splitter for the following:

    1) Recognizer Mod
    2) Flynn sign
    3) Backbox LED Mod
    4) Light Cycles
    5) Spare (future mod?)

    #25 7 years ago

    Yes, I had to use a splitter.
    Make sure the splitter you buy from Kim has the middle wires for the 5v. The one I just received from him for my Backbox animation board, does not have the 5v line in it and I have to mod it. I noticed after installing his splitter my flipper buttons weren't illuminating like they were previously. His splitter is lacking the 5v wires.

    #26 7 years ago

    This splitter is diff then the one that Kimballs makes ??

    http://shop.cointaker.com/product.sc?productId=813&categoryId=77

    #28 7 years ago

    Both of those are fine (CoinTaker & Pinballlife). I see the middle wire that is for the 5v on them.
    The last one I got from Kimball did not have the 5v (center wire).

    I know Kim very well and he made it for me in a pinch while I was on the way out to his house. He may have just left it off as he thought all I needed was the 12v. It's not a big deal to add the 5v wire in there and perhaps he overlooked it on mine. I'm not downplaying his...just saying. If you are buying one from him, be sure it has both voltages in the splitter. (5v & 12v).

    #29 7 years ago

    can you daisy chain a splitter? I mean connect another 3 way into one of plugs so you get 5 splitters?

    #30 7 years ago

    Finally started doing mine last night.
    Here are some pics.

    I'm wiring them a bit differently. Both are attached to mini 2-pin connectors (the kind used in RC cars). Both sets of leads will be wired together to a longer harness terminating in a single 3-pin molex connector. I'm doing this so I can connect both bikes to my PIG when it arrives. Mike said he'll be shipping very soon. I Just have to go buy some more connectors.

    With the PIG I can trigger the bikes with a specific lamp (on or off) Any suggestions which lamp to use? I thought of the light cycle inserts, but once you make the shot on the one hooked up to the PIG, your cycles go dark.

    Either way, this should extend the life of the LEDs a bit as they wont be on all the time.

    LC_01.jpg LC_02.jpg

    1 month later
    #31 7 years ago

    Drano, your wiring looks great. Just curious if you took pictures of the leads going to the 3 pin molex connector. kinda new to this crap and I want to duplicate what you were doing for a nice, finished look. Thanks.

    #32 7 years ago

    Also, can someone provide a picture of the wires tied to the GI under the playfield? I have a CLU cycle coming in today and the instructions are clear until the point where the wires are connected to the 5v. Thanks!

    #33 7 years ago

    I just ran the wires from each cycle to it's respective Light Cycle insert just before the ramps. It's not on with GI, but flashing with the insert which I like. You could either solder to the lamp sockets or just push the wires into the insert lamp connectors like I did.
    For a GI connection, there is an unused molex plug in the backbox on the left side where you just connect all four wires from the new light cycles to. I don't have a picture of this, but someone around here does I believe. Pretty easy to do once you see it.

    #34 7 years ago
    Quoted from Toasterdog:

    Drano, your wiring looks great. Just curious if you took pictures of the leads going to the 3 pin molex connector. kinda new to this crap and I want to duplicate what you were doing for a nice, finished look. Thanks.

    Ha Ha! Maybe if I had finished it
    My plan was to wire these to the PIG so they would come on only when a particular insert was lit... Maybe the left and right ramp lightcycle inserts? This should keep the from burning out too early.

    I only just got my PIG a week ago and I purchased the wiring, connectors and other materials last week. I will be completing the mod in the next week or so. I should be able to post pics soon. For now they are just mounted to my game unlit

    The only thing left for me to decide is if I want them to be lit separately or together. This will affect how I wire them. The PIG only has 4 slots so, if I go individual, that will take up two of the slots. That leaves two spots for my recogniser mods and the FLYNN sign.

    #35 7 years ago
    Quoted from shock_me:

    I just ran the wires from each cycle to it's respective Light Cycle insert just before the ramps. It's not on with GI, but flashing with the insert which I like. You could either solder to the lamp sockets or just push the wires into the insert lamp connectors like I did.

    Good call! I'll try that tonight. I think the cycles flashing with the insert would look good, but I'm undecided if I want them on all the time.

    Would still like to see pictures of a molex connection if anyone has them available.

    #36 7 years ago

    I had mine on with GI at first, but I find they are way more interactive now that they flash with the inserts. You could even run them to the main light cycle insert in the center of the playfield, so they would be on or flashing depending if you complete the mode or not. Lots of options!

    #37 7 years ago
    Quoted from shock_me:

    I just ran the wires from each cycle to it's respective Light Cycle insert just before the ramps.

    I think that's the simpler method for sure.
    My plan with wiring them to the PIG was to have the ability to switch them around if I wanted to.

    Tron is my first Stern and, just looking at how the lamps are wired (IDC push connectors), how did you make the connection? Can't exactly use alligator clips

    #38 7 years ago

    Well you could solder directly to the lamp socket idc tabs, or like I did, if the wires on your cycles are a small enough gauge you can press them into the idc type tabs on the lamp sockets. You can splice to the lamp wires too, but I don't like that look. There are tons of ways to skin this cat.

    The PIG will work of course, but I don't have one.

    #39 7 years ago
    Quoted from shock_me:

    Well you could solder directly to the lamp socket idc tabs, or like I did, if the wires on your cycles are a small enough gauge you can press them into the idc type tabs on the lamp sockets. You can splice to the lamp wires too, but I don't like that look. There are tons of ways to skin this cat.
    The PIG will work of course, but I don't have one.

    Cool, maybe I'll just try to push them in over top of the exisitng wiring. That leaves more space on the pig for other stuff

    Thanks!

    #40 7 years ago

    ^^Or just buy more PIGs!^^

    I actually bought 4 PIGs because I didn't realize there were 4 input/outputs on EACH ONE. Oh well, I'm sure I'll find a good use for all of them.

    #41 7 years ago

    Thanks for the tip guys, keep em coming. I still have not decided how I want to do this exactly. But not being an electrical wiz I can't help but to wonder....can't we put a resistor of some sort in the power wires to the lightcycles to bring the voltage down to 4.5?

    #42 7 years ago
    Quoted from playernumber4:

    can't we put a resistor of some sort in the power wires to the lightcycles to bring the voltage down to 4.5?

    Isn't the lighting in the game already at 5v? I thought that would be fine? But I'm no electrical wix either

    #43 7 years ago

    How are you guys wiring to the pig or GI? The cycles have push buttons that when pushed light the cycle a couple seconds then it goes off. The only way I see is to superglue down this button then wire to an insert. The pig or GI will light it for two seconds until the light goes off and then it will stay off until the circuit power cycles. An insert flashes so the cycle should get up to two seconds each time the insert lights.

    Also, make sure you wire the cycles after the diode so you don't cause ghosting on other inserts in the same row or col.

    #44 7 years ago

    Someone correct me if i'm wrong but i think the voltage is 4.5-4.6. You can use a resistor to bring down the voltage to what the light cycle LED needs.

    Pushing LEDs out of their design spec (volts and amp), can drastically shorten the life of an LED.

    There's a ton of sites that will due the calc, and tell you the banded resistor you need.

    #45 7 years ago
    Quoted from markmon:

    How are you guys wiring to the pig or GI? The cycles have push buttons that when pushed light the cycle a couple seconds then it goes off. The only way I see is to superglue down this button then wire to an insert.

    Quoted from hassellcastle:

    Robt.
    Finally super glue down the on/off button (the identity disc) so the cycle is illuminated all the time.
    They look badass!

    #46 7 years ago
    Quoted from BrianZ:

    Someone correct me if i'm wrong but i think the voltage is 4.5-4.6. You can use a resistor to bring down the voltage to what the light cycle LED needs.

    The bikes take 3 1.5v batteries so, it seems like they require 4.5v already.

    #47 7 years ago

    Great, thanks for your input Shock_me, I like the idea of tying em into the light cycle inserts. Flashing would be better than constant on imo.

    No worries, Drano. I nwo you've been wprking on the all important fiber optic lighting and that really is going to be the must have mod imo. Anyway, would love to see pics when you do complete, but who knows, maybe I will beat you to it ).

    #48 7 years ago

    I wired both of mine to a 5V splitter. They are on all the time but I like the look. I have some pics i can post later. I used a hot solder iron to melt the cycle button so it is always on. Was not hard to wire them to the game and solder the wires to the lightcycles (and I am not the best at soldering).

    #49 7 years ago
    Quoted from marksf123:

    I wired both of mine to a 5V splitter. They are on all the time but I like the look.

    I did the same but I think I will use the PIG to flash them on and off when you hit the ramp spinner.
    Then they will be on all the time but flash with the ramp spinner.

    #50 7 years ago
    Quoted from pinballlooking:

    I did the same but I think I will use the PIG to flash them on and off when you hit the ramp spinner.
    Then they will be on all the time but flash with the ramp spinner.

    How does the pig control voltage based on a switch? Where are the specs on this thing? I thought it was just a power splitter. Didn't realize it had a bunch of logic.

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