(Topic ID: 112118)

Tron cracked insert...

By marcd

9 years ago


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  • 14 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by vid1900
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 9 years ago

Hi,

I noticed lately while I was cleaning my Tron Pro playfield that one of the Lightcycle insert near the recognizer shows cracks on its edges. The insert right corner has been pushed 1/16 of an inch below the playfield. Probably by one of the many airballs you get during the game. You can really feel it when you pass your fingers on it.

tron_insert.JPGtron_insert.JPG

I was wondering if this was normal and if I should do something about it (cover it with mylar ?) to avoid further wear.

Any thoughts ?

Thx

Marc

#2 9 years ago

I can't see the crack in the photo, but if it has just sunk below the level of the playfield, you can raise it back up and glue it in place.

#3 9 years ago

Hi vid,

I added a red line around the crack so you can know where it is on the original pic.

tron_insert_highlight.jpgtron_insert_highlight.jpg

What is the best way to raise it without cracking the clearcoat ? Also, what type of glue would you use ?

Thx a lot !

#4 9 years ago

OK, that's a "sunken insert" not a "cracked insert" (and that's a good thing).

Easy repair:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

RAISING INSERTS:

Sometimes you find that inserts have sunk below the playfield surface. Not cupped, but actually fallen in.

Cupped inserts can simply be filled with clear coat, but if you can see the wood beneath the playfield around the edges, you need to raise it up.

Heat the insert from above and below with a hair dryer.

Keep one hand on the face of the playfield to control the insert, as you push the insert from behind with the largest socket from a wrench set that will fit in the hole.

You may have to reheat while you work.

If the insert is really loose, and you can easily remove it, do so (rough up the side edges with coarse sandpaper, prime with plastic primer and re-glue with epoxy).

If the insert is really tight, then just level it with the face of the playfield and re-glue the entire insert perimeter from the back of the playfield with epoxy.

Don't spare the epoxy, better to have a heavy coat that no ones sees from the back, than to have the insert move around in the future.

So in short, I use a hair dryer and level it with the face of the playfield ? Do you think that it will crack the clearcoat even more ?

Thx a lot for this precious information !

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from marcd:

So in short, I use a hair dryer and level it with the face of the playfield ? Do you think that it will crack the clearcoat even more ?
Thx a lot for this precious information !

not unless you lift it above the PF.

#7 9 years ago

let us know how it goes...

good luck

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from marcd:

So in short, I use a hair dryer and level it with the face of the playfield ?

Yes, take your time, warm from both the top and bottom of the playfield.

Glue with 2 part epoxy to set it in place for good.

Quoted from marcd:

Do you think that it will crack the clearcoat even more ?

Just score the insert outline with a brand new Xacto knife. That way you control the the edge from breaking.

#9 9 years ago

OK, I'll give it a shot and let you know how it goes !

Once this is done, should I fill the insert outline with some clear or should I just leave it like that ?

Thx again.

#10 9 years ago

I'd fill the outline to keep the wear to a minimum.

#11 9 years ago

Well, I was able to lift the insert back up without scoring the insert with an X-Acto. The initial crack is a little bit more visible but at least my insert is leveled with the playfield. I now have to glue it back in place. Need to go get the epoxy first.

Vid, what would be the best approach to mask the crack on the edges of the insert ? After reading your "you deserve an award" thread on restoring playfield, I was thinking of using an X-Acto to apply a thin line of createx black in the crack. Does that seem like the "proper" way to do it ?

Then, once this is done, I wanted to apply some clear on the outline to avoid further wear. Should I use an airbrush or a manual brush ?

Thx

#12 9 years ago

Light up the insert from behind as you work, so you can see that your black has 100% coverage.

If you don't have an airbrush, use a 0000 brush and the black Createx paint.

Fill the crack with a 1/4 drop of clear, spread with a 0000 brush.

#13 9 years ago

ok, I'll keep you posted... Should I use an automotive clear (PPG JC660) ? or are there other easy to find options ?

#14 9 years ago

PPG JC is a proven solution.

You may experiment with other clears and keep us posted with your results.

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