(Topic ID: 212293)

Playfield cracks - cleaning questions - Triple Action

By DCRand

6 years ago


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  • 21 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by DCRand
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 years ago

Cleaning up pf on this Triple Action. It has deep dark ball swirls, best thing have found so far on this game is Novus 2 and Magic eraser. One star area pic gently cleaned, the other not. Area just above flippers cleaned. Any better ideas appreciated.

Second and bigger problem are the two crack lines running the length of the pf. There is no lifting, just fine cracks. I am not a talented restorer / pf painter. Any suggestions?

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#2 6 years ago

Renamed topic, and bumping it hoping mostly for advice on the fine cracks in the pf.

#3 6 years ago

Check out this link, and also vids guide on this site.
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/pinball-restoration/playfield/205-repairing-clear-coated-playfield-planking

As far as the dark swirls in your yellow paint, that's very hard to get rid of completely. I had the same thing with my Williams Grand Prix.
I posted where I was also using novus 2 and a ME. It was brought to my attention, that the Novus 2 was not the best thing to use,

Here is a link to my post about that
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-playfield-3

Good Luck!

#4 6 years ago

Hopefully an expert can chime in here. For the cracks, the paint is gone so before doing a clearcoat, the way it looks to me is you have 3 options:

1) live with it as-is
2) repaint those areas. Most look to be in solid color areas, should be relatively easy to mask and paint - if you have all the right stuff for doing it.
3) try rubbing some matching paint into the crack. This should be a lot easier than (2) but getting a color that matches may not be very easy.

#5 6 years ago

The playfield has a condition called "crazing." It's when dirt gets into the fine grain of the wood. The straight lines with missing paint on the playfield are the result of the playfield wood grain separating, because of age and environmental factors.

For the crazing, you can repaint the area, or use a Magic Eraser sponge (melamine foam) with rubbing alcohol...

Using Novus 2 is a way to clean off embedded surface dirt on the playfield, and it will polish the playfield. Some have tried using Novus 3 for extremely dirty playfields, but it seems to be too abrasive for the painted parts of the playfield, but works well on a shooter lane...

The straight lines on the playfield would need to be repainted...

#6 6 years ago

Thanks all, I was reluctant to use the ME with alcohol. Had tried that on a different machine and it really dulled the paint. I don't clear coat, just wax, and the wax helped but never brought that area of that PF fully back to the same gloss. Used denatured alcohol, maybe too strong? So was hoping for something a little gentler.

As for the cracks, I haven't tried touching up the paint on a pf yet, and these cracks have just a little separation so would have to do a very little filling with something before painting.

Probably will just clean with either ME and alcohol or ME and the Novus 2, then wax and leave the touching up for either when I am better at it, or for the next owner.

Thanks again.

#7 6 years ago

Use care with the me near the cracks.

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from bonzo71:

Use care with the me near the cracks.

Well hey, your clear across the country. The only ones I could hit you with were the sarcastic ones.

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

Well hey, your clear across the country. The only ones I could hit you with were the sarcastic ones.

Good one!

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

Thanks all, I was reluctant to use the ME with alcohol. Had tried that on a different machine and it really dulled the paint. I don't clear coat, just wax, and the wax helped but never brought that area of that PF fully back to the same gloss. Used denatured alcohol, maybe too strong? So was hoping for something a little gentler.
As for the cracks, I haven't tried touching up the paint on a pf yet, and these cracks have just a little separation so would have to do a very little filling with something before painting.
Probably will just clean with either ME and alcohol or ME and the Novus 2, then wax and leave the touching up for either when I am better at it, or for the next owner.
Thanks again.

Use 90% rubbing alcohol and magic eraser. It can leave a film so give it a wipe with a clean cloth dampened with alcohol, then polish with novus 2. Do small seat ions at a time with the novus 2 and do not let it dry, just rapidly hand buff to a brilliant shine then coat with a good carnival wax. Caution, alcohol can start to erode old clear coats so don't use excessively and wipe up quickly. Also, ball marks in yellow are almost impossible to remove completely without damaging the paint.

#11 6 years ago

Magic eraser & alcohol will take off the factory varnish/clear coat, try and use some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound it cleans ball swirls and planking in the varnish right up!

#12 6 years ago

Wonder if that blue tack (to hang posters on the wall) stuff would pull dirt out of the microcracks. Or automotivr clay bar. Or silly puddy.
Anybody ever try it??

OT. How's your backglass?

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from CNKay:

Wonder if that blue tack (to hang posters on the wall) stuff would pull dirt out of the microcracks. Or automotivr clay bar. Or silly puddy.
Anybody ever try it??
OT. How's your backglass?

What backglass. Lol was gone whe I bought it. Have been looking for months. Created a printable file from a high res picture someone sent me. Will see how that works.

#14 6 years ago

I think I have seen one triple action on eBay in last few years that was a B- at best. My star action is pretty ruff that's why I asked.

With the invisible, integrated, 100k, 200k, 300k etc I wonder how you can do that?

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from CNKay:

I think I have seen one triple action on eBay in last few years that was a B- at best. My star action is pretty ruff that's why I asked.
With the invisible, integrated, 100k, 200k, 300k etc I wonder how you can do that?

I am not sure how it will work out. Have a friend with a digital sign printer that prints on glass. Going to print the image, then cut opaque vinyl film for the areas that don't light. (I am in the sign business). We will see how that works.

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from DCRand:

I am not sure how it will work out. Have a friend with a digital sign printer that prints on glass. Going to print the image, then cut opaque vinyl film for the areas that don't light. (I am in the sign business). We will see how that works.

Send Pics when done, would like to see the results.

#17 6 years ago

So still a work in progress but have touched up the paint. My first ever attempt. Not perfect but much better. Still outing it back together. Haven’t printed back glass yet.

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#18 6 years ago

Looks good. What type and brand of paint are you using? I'm following behind with a possible touch up.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from Skidave:

Looks good. What type and brand of paint are you using? I'm following behind with a possible touch up.

Thanks.

I’m using Testors enamel. But read Vids playfield guide before u start. I am not clear coating, just waxing. If clear coating, don’t think Testors is s good idea. I am not doing a full restoration, just deep clean up.

#20 6 years ago

I am not clear coating either. Just hoping to improve someone else's years of neglect.

Did you thin your paint with the Testors thinner before painting?

I posted mine here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-bon-voyage-playfield

#21 6 years ago
Quoted from Skidave:

I am not clear coating either. Just hoping to improve someone else's years of neglect.
Did you thin your paint with the Testors thinner before painting?
I posted mine here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-bon-voyage-playfield

Looked at your game link. That is a lot of blue to paint. Yes and no to thining. Did for the darker color, no for the lightest blue, but should have as it dried a little high in a couple spots. Because mine was a fine crack to fill, used a toothpick for a “brush” which worked well.

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