(Topic ID: 204237)

Trident - are these boards toast?

By n1teowl

2 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by dasvis
  • No one calls this topic a favorite


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#1 2 years ago

I picked up a Trident that I knew had some issues. After getting into it, I see some things that worry me. The power board is unplugged and it looks like one of the resistors is cracked. The MPU board has some crazy hack which makes me afraid to plug it in. Are either of these boards salvageable? What is going on with that MPU board? What would you suggest for how to go about turning this thing on for the first time? I'm not sure why the power board is unplugged but I'm sure it can't be good. Thanks for any advice you have, I'm a newbie to these early solid states. Cheers.

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#2 2 years ago

Without checking every wire is in the right place the Rectifier board looks fine just need to replace that resistor.

That MPU hack is the battery I think. If you removed it starting the game would be fine it just wouldn;t keep settings....but again that rectifier board needs a new resistor first

You can check the wires and more info here


Edit: the other red wire is probably just jumping through hole?

#3 2 years ago

It looks like the batteries were removed after they leaked and it was not cleaned up properly.

That "battery" replacement is the strangest.

Also, I can't tell if it is the angle, but it looks like disc capacitor C30 on the MPU is blown in half.

#4 2 years ago
Quoted from Taxman:

That "battery" replacement is the strangest.

Yeah they got it off the board at least... Kind of

#5 2 years ago

Cool. I'll cut that off and not worry about it. You are right, that disc capacitor is also blown. Guess I have some parts to order. Thanks for the help.

#6 2 years ago

Both of the resistors on the Rectifier board look damaged (one cracked, the other completely missing all the insulation). Hard to tell if MPU board is OK but showing lots of corrosion. The light driver board (LDB) also showing lots of corrosion (see all the green tabs on the SCR's going roughly in a straight line from the top of the board all the way to the bottom of the board).

#7 2 years ago

I have several stern/ballys from this era I have found it is much easier to just get a repo MPU board and be done with it when it comes to MPU alkaline damage. The time and frustration saved is worth the 200 you will spend. That being said your power rectifier board doesn't look to bad and could easily be fixed. Also repinning the connectors on your MPU and power driver board will also make your life easier as well. Good luck my Tident was my first pinball I played and have had one in my collection for several years it is a great game...
Good luck with it.

#8 2 years ago

They both look much better than every board that I have repaired.....

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