(Topic ID: 322405)

Trident 2022 - a multiball version of Trident

By DickHamill

70 days ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 67 days ago by cfh
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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TroughSwitchWiring (resized).jpeg
IMG_5063 (resized).jpeg
Schematic_TroughSensor_2022-09-17 (resized).png
TridentSwitchMatrix with Connections (resized).png
7-PlayfieldAutoPlunge (resized).jpeg
6-PlayfieldFlipperRelief (resized).jpeg
5-PlayfieldTopGuides (resized).jpeg
4-PlayfieldBallRamp (resized).jpeg
2-PlayfieldSlotCut (resized).jpeg
3-PlayfieldTroughMounted (resized).jpeg
1-PlayfieldFlipperRotated (resized).jpeg
Upper Trough Assembly (resized).jpeg
Auto Kicker (resized).jpeg
Four Ball Trough (resized).jpeg

12
#1 70 days ago

Video of game play here:


How to video here:

Instructions
============
Breaking with tradition (my own tradition of adding boards to control the MPU, but not altering the playfield), I decided to modify the playfield of Trident. After rotating the right flipper assembly a bit, cutting out a chunk of wood, and shortening a bottom rail, I added a 4-ball trough and an auto-plunger. There were plenty of vacancies on the switch matrix to support the 5 new switches. For the trough kicker, I used the original solenoid assignment. The auto-plunger is attached to one of the driver board's unused "continuous" solenoid channels.

By attaching the "ball 4" position to the original trough switch, and using the original solenoid channel for the trough kicker, the game still plays the original, unmodified code as expected.

#2 70 days ago

Parts
=====

Ball Trough Assembly (4-Ball)
PBL-100-0015-00
$99.95
https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-trough-assembly-4-ball.html
Four Ball Trough (resized).jpeg
Upper Ball Trough Assembly (2-piece set)
PBL-100-0002-00
$34.95
https://www.pinballlife.com/upper-ball-trough-assembly-2-piece-set.html
Upper Trough Assembly (resized).jpeg
Shooter Lane Auto Kicker Assembly
A-21022
$59.95
https://www.pinballlife.com/shooter-lane-auto-kicker-assembly.html
Auto Kicker (resized).jpeg
(Qty 2) 6.7 kOhm 1/4W Resistors
(Qty 2) 68 Ohm 1/2W Resistors
(Qty 2) 1 kOhm 1/4W Resistors
(Qty 2) Diodes (1N914A or 1N4004)

#3 70 days ago

Mechanical Details
==================
With the playfield flipped, the right flipper (now on the left) can be rotated about 50° clockwise. To rotate the bracket, remove the solenoid, arm, and screws, and situate the bracket on the other side of the protruding screw and nut (these belong to the apron holder).
1-PlayfieldFlipperRotated (resized).jpeg
Remove the metal rail from the underside of the playfield (it's under the shooter lane) and cut off about 5" (just enough to fit the auto-plunger).

Cut a rectangular slot in the playfield to fit the new trough (see pictures). I used a reciprocating saw with a wood blade to extend the rectangular slot that already exists.
2-PlayfieldSlotCut (resized).jpeg
Mount the trough assembly to the underside of the playfield.
3-PlayfieldTroughMounted (resized).jpeg
I installed a wooden ramp (end grain, hardwood) to prevent the ball from rolling back into the trough. The new code uses the "jam" sensor to detect rollbacks and clear them, but the old code doesn't know about that and will malfunction if the ball sneaks back in after bouncing off the far rail.
4-PlayfieldBallRamp (resized).jpeg
Install the ball guides on the top of the playfield.
5-PlayfieldTopGuides (resized).jpeg
Drill new relief holes for the flipper insert screws (50°~60° off from originals).
6-PlayfieldFlipperRelief (resized).jpeg
Cut a slot under the shooter lane for the new shooter lane sensor.

Install the auto-plunger.
7-PlayfieldAutoPlunge (resized).jpeg

#4 70 days ago

Switch Wiring
=============
The switch matrix on Stern SS games uses 5 strobe lines going out to banks of 8 switches. After going through a diode and the switch, there are 8 return lines to take the signals back to the MPU. This gives the machine the ability to read 40 switches, but Trident has many open slots in the switch matrix (for our purposes, 34-38 are open). To connect into the matrix, we'll chain off of the strobe of the original outhole switch (number 33) to go to the leading edge of the diodes for each of the new switches (Ball 3, Ball 2, and Shooter Lane). The optical switches will require a special circuit board.

The strobe for the original outhole switch (number 33) is yellow with red. Attach that wire to the leading edge of the diode on the Ball 4 switch. Then, daisy chain that strobe to the leading edge of the diodes on Ball 3, Ball 2, and the Shooter Lane switch. A final daisy chain will go to the board to interface with the optical switches.

The return for the original outhole switch is brown. Attach that to the return contact of the new Ball 4 switch (center contact). The returns for Ball 3, Ball 2, and Shooter Lane will go to other switches on the matrix.

Run a new wire from the return (center contact) of the Ball 3 switch over to the Right Return Lane switch (number 18). Attach this new wire to where the Gray wire returns the switch signal to the MPU (I1).

Run a new wire from the return (center contact) of the Ball 2 switch over to the Left Return Lane switch (number 19). Attach this new wire to where the White/Orange wire returns the switch signal to the MPU (I2).

Run a new wire from the return (center contact) of the Shooter Lane switch over to the Bottom Left Sling switch (number 14). Attach this new wire to where the White/Brown wire returns the switch signal to the MPU (I5).
TridentSwitchMatrix with Connections (resized).png

TroughSwitchWiring (resized).jpeg
#5 70 days ago

Optical Interface Board
=======================
In order to read the optical switches, the signals from the optical receivers have to be manipulated. This board is simple and requires only resistors and diodes:
(Qty 2) 6.7 kOhm 1/4W Resistors
(Qty 2) 68 Ohm 1/2W Resistors - to current limit the transmitters
(Qty 2) 1 kOhm 1/4W Resistors
(Qty 2) Diodes (1N914A or 1N4004)

To power the transmitter, we'll need +5V and Ground. For those, I ran two wires back to the head of the machine (red & black) and clamped into TP4 (GND) and TP5 (+5V) on the MPU. I'm sure there's a more elegant solution. Please suggest one if you have it. The transmitter LEDs need to be current-limited with resistors. On the trough's transmitter board, it says the LEDs want "100MA MAX EACH." I found that 70mA works well, so I used 68 Ohm resistors between +5 and the + pin of each LED. With 68 Ohms, at 0.073A, the power used by each will be about .36W, so I used 1/2W resistors for each LED. To the transmitter connector, we only need four signals--the two current-limited connections to 5V, and then two connections to ground.

The receiver board will be interfaced into the switch matrix. The receiver sensors act like transistors--if they see the transmitter then they provide a path to ground. We'll use a 6.7 kOhm resistor to connect the strobe to each receiver's positive terminal. This resistor will prevent the receiver from eating the entire strobe, so the physical switches will still see it. Then, the negative terminal of each receiver will have a 1 kOhm resistor between it and ground. Diodes (1N4004 or 1N914A) allow the Return lines I4 and I5 to sense the strobe if the receiver is blocked. In this configuration, the switch will appear "closed" if there's a ball in the way (because the strobe will get through to the return lines), and "open" if there's no ball (because the strobe will be grounded).

I put both of these circuits on the same board (for biasing the transmitter and conditioning the receiver). It's a quick build on a prototype board but might be worth creating a layout for in the future.
Schematic_TroughSensor_2022-09-17 (resized).png
Like the physical switches, the returns for these optical switches need to be wired back into the matrix. The "JAM" sensor return should be connected to the Bottom Right Sling-Shot I4 (White/Green), and "Ball 1" to the Top Left Sling-Shot I3 (White/Black).

The connectors of the transmitter and receiver boards appear to be friction 4-pin Molex at 4mm spacing? If anyone knows where to source these, please comment. I'm using a connector that I cut off an old power supply that I wasn't using. My board is just hanging by the wires. It should be mounted to the playfield with offsets.
IMG_5063 (resized).jpeg

#6 70 days ago

Solenoid Wiring
===============
The wiring for the trough solenoid is the same as the original. The power goes to the terminal with the banded side of the diode, and the ground wire goes to the other terminal.

To wire up the auto-plunger, jumper the power from the trough solenoid over to the auto-plunger solenoid. Again, power goes to the terminal with the banded side of the diode. For ground, we run a new wire up to the head. This new wire will connect to one of the continuous solenoids on J5 pin 7.

#7 70 days ago

Board & Code
============
There are kits available (RoyGBev & Troxel) for the adapter board (make sure you purchase/build at least a Rev 3 board), if you don't want to build it from scratch.
Instructions and code are here: https://github.com/BallySternOS/Trident2022

#8 70 days ago

That's impressive...

#9 70 days ago

Where in the world did I miss the bus? You sir are a genius!
I don't own one but if I did I would retrofit it
Great work!

#10 70 days ago

Super cool!

#11 69 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

That's impressive...

Thanks!

#12 69 days ago
Quoted from 2manypins:

Where in the world did I miss the bus? You sir are a genius!
I don't own one but if I did I would retrofit it
Great work!

What bus?
You didn't miss anything--it's all right here. There are a bunch of us doing "fan rewrites" of these machines.
I've done a bunch (Stars, Meteor, Galaxy, Black Jack, Silverball Mania, Stellar Wars).
Also check out Eight Ball Plus:


Beyond Future Spa:


Centaur 2022: https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1588490489

This is the first one I've done a multiball for, but it wasn't difficult to add it in to the rewrite.

#13 69 days ago

Thanks!

#14 69 days ago

Great Work! I will be modding my Trident for this multi-ball mod too.

Also, I've done a new rewrite of Paragon here:

#15 69 days ago
Quoted from PinballHelp:

Great Work! I will be modding my Trident for this multi-ball mod too.
Also, I've done a new rewrite of Paragon here:

Yes! Sorry--left out Paragon!
And the Flash Gordon remake:

#16 68 days ago

Pintastic New England would welcome any of these games at our 2023 show (Sept. 7-10). We give extra Bonus Points for games with custom software, and we are planning an improved and expanded showcase area for customized games!
.................David Marston

#17 68 days ago
Quoted from dmarston:

Pintastic New England would welcome any of these games at our 2023 show (Sept. 7-10). We give extra Bonus Points for games with custom software, and we are planning an improved and expanded showcase area for customized games!
.................David Marston

Sounds like fun!

#18 67 days ago

There is a far better approach to this that gives 2 ball multiball, and you don't have to modify much to make it work. basically you take the ball trough idea used in other Stern games like 9ball or flight2000. which mean adding ONE SWITCH (opposed to an entire ball trough!), and a ball direct guide. switching back to original code is easy, no modifications needed. and you can re-purpose the playfield tilt switch as the 2nd ball switch. this approach IS WAY EASIER (and cheaper) than that mess you outline above with a $100 ball trough. just saying...

did this approach to Flash and TriZone multiball, and it works quite well. A little messing around in the software ball feed timing is needed, but that's pretty easy since you're re-writing all the code!

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