(Topic ID: 246911)
Linked Games
Lightning
Stern Electronics, 1981
Topic Gallery
Eustis, FL
I don't know but I have been looking for some for YEARS. Still no luck. I even had a classified ad here for them. No responses.
If I could my hands on a good one, I could make a mold and cast new ones.
Yeah, nobody has those. I looked for years, years ago, and never found any. All of the spare PF's I had picked up were curled up as well, and I sacrificed a couple of those trying to flatten them out. No dice.
6 months later
resurrecting this thread...
I have a 3D Printer at the school where I teach...
I just got some Translucent PLA filament...
I am going to try to reproduce these... Right now the blue I have is too light... but I will see what I can do...
Quoted from Tommy-dog:I have 2 of these inserts that I had for years for a Lightning playfield that I was going to restore but never got to. What is the value of 2 NOS blue inserts?
PM me TOMMY! I'll buy them off of you... would make it way easier to copy and 3D print them with a real set to measure that is not all jacked up...
lmk
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:CPR may have tech specs or drawings.
How do I get in touch with CPR?
I dont think they look too bad. The edges will be hidden, and the tops can be sanded and polished smooth.
My worry is that they wont actually be translucent when light is shined through them and you'll see the texture from the layers.
Quoted from PghPinballRescue:I'm also worried about heat.
No heat from LEDs
Quoted from Lathroum:No heat from LEDs
LEDs produce heat, just less than your typical incandescent. See the humongous heat sinks on these headlight bulbs? They are there so the heat given off by the LED doesn't destroy the bulb.
Quoted from Lathroum:How do I get in touch with CPR?
https://classicplayfields.com/contact-us/
NoticeTheHeatSink (resized).jpgYou would do better to make a mold and use epoxy to pour cast some inserts. I do not think the 3d printed one is going to hold up to a big metal ball pounding on it.
Sanding them smooth might be tricky. In my experience, sanding 3D printed models causes them to unwravel like a sweater.
Quoted from RyThom:Sanding them smooth might be tricky. In my experience, sanding 3D printed models causes them to unwravel like a sweater.
ABS plastic can be smoothed and shined with acetone.... Not sure about PLA...
I think you're still going to see a texture through them, even if they are sanded and polished.
This may end up being a good thing though, because the original ones were completely translucent with no starburst pattern in them, if I recall correctly.
Quoted from kermit24:3D printed inserts just look terrible. I'd keep looking.
But would still be better than an insert cupped so badly it works as a ramp...
Guy who said he has an NOS set has not responded on here... I could copy those...
Quoted from Lathroum:But would still be better than an insert cupped so badly it works as a ramp...
Guy who said he has an NOS set has not responded on here... I could copy those...
I'd try to level the insert by using the dropper method first.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fix-cupped-inserts-without-clearing-whole-playfield
Quoted from kermit24:I'd try to level the insert by using the dropper method first.
Have you seen how badly these particular inserts cup?
I think there was a thread some time ago of someone removing those inserts and heating them just enough to get them flat again.
Quoted from kermit24:I'd try to level the insert by using the dropper method first.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fix-cupped-inserts-without-clearing-whole-playfield
That would fill the cupped area great, but do nothing for the pointy part that sticks up above the level of the PF.
1 month later
1 week later
Mine are warped too. Anyone ever try cutting out an insert from blue plastic sheet that is thicker than the original insert, or even the same thickness of the entire insert? It would be solid without a cavity but seems like it would look right but I've never tried it. If it wasn't quite that thick you could add a little bit of shim material at bottom of each corner to raise it up to pf level, or just let it be a little 'short' and carefully level it as the glue dries.
1 year later
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