(Topic ID: 246911)

Triangle playfield inserts available?


By jojo97222

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 32 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 months ago by frenchmarky
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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Insert (resized).jpg

#1 1 year ago

I need to replace the large blue triangle inserts in my Stern Lightning. These are 1-1/4" wide x 2-3/4" tall. I can't seem to find a supplier that carries them, does anyone know if they are even available?

Insert (resized).jpg
#4 1 year ago

To the top, Like a bump. Trying g to get some action here for ya

#5 1 year ago

I don't know but I have been looking for some for YEARS. Still no luck. I even had a classified ad here for them. No responses.

If I could my hands on a good one, I could make a mold and cast new ones.

#6 1 year ago

Yeah, nobody has those. I looked for years, years ago, and never found any. All of the spare PF's I had picked up were curled up as well, and I sacrificed a couple of those trying to flatten them out. No dice.

6 months later
#7 6 months ago

resurrecting this thread...

I have a 3D Printer at the school where I teach...

I just got some Translucent PLA filament...

I am going to try to reproduce these... Right now the blue I have is too light... but I will see what I can do...

#8 6 months ago

I have 2 of these inserts that I had for years for a Lightning playfield that I was going to restore but never got to. What is the value of 2 NOS blue inserts?

#9 6 months ago

CPR may have tech specs or drawings.

#10 6 months ago
Quoted from Tommy-dog:

I have 2 of these inserts that I had for years for a Lightning playfield that I was going to restore but never got to. What is the value of 2 NOS blue inserts?

PM me TOMMY! I'll buy them off of you... would make it way easier to copy and 3D print them with a real set to measure that is not all jacked up...

lmk

#11 6 months ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

CPR may have tech specs or drawings.

How do I get in touch with CPR?

#12 6 months ago

First prints on 3D printer... Translucent red... Looks good...

20200130_150612 (resized).jpg20200130_150607 (resized).jpg
#13 6 months ago

Shine some light through those, I'm curious to see just how translucent they are.

#14 6 months ago
Quoted from SarverSystems:

Shine some light through those, I'm curious to see just how translucent they are.

Yeah they look rough, real rough

#15 6 months ago

I dont think they look too bad. The edges will be hidden, and the tops can be sanded and polished smooth.

My worry is that they wont actually be translucent when light is shined through them and you'll see the texture from the layers.

-1
#17 6 months ago
Quoted from SarverSystems:

I'm also worried about heat.

No heat from LEDs

#18 6 months ago

Hard to take pics with it lit... Translucency is very good... Slight texture from printing but not bad... Very bright...

20200130_163721_HDR (resized).jpg20200130_163814_HDR (resized).jpg
#19 6 months ago

Better than an insert shaped like a ramp...

#20 6 months ago
Quoted from Lathroum:

No heat from LEDs

LEDs produce heat, just less than your typical incandescent. See the humongous heat sinks on these headlight bulbs? They are there so the heat given off by the LED doesn't destroy the bulb.

Quoted from Lathroum:

How do I get in touch with CPR?

https://classicplayfields.com/contact-us/

NoticeTheHeatSink (resized).jpg
#21 6 months ago

Actually that heat sync is probably because high amperage voltage 12v needs to be dropped... Not the same in a pinball at all... Some home LEDs have them too... To drop 110v down... Not 6v pin LED...

#22 6 months ago

You would do better to make a mold and use epoxy to pour cast some inserts. I do not think the 3d printed one is going to hold up to a big metal ball pounding on it.

#23 6 months ago

Sanding them smooth might be tricky. In my experience, sanding 3D printed models causes them to unwravel like a sweater.

#24 6 months ago
Quoted from RyThom:

Sanding them smooth might be tricky. In my experience, sanding 3D printed models causes them to unwravel like a sweater.

ABS plastic can be smoothed and shined with acetone.... Not sure about PLA...

#25 6 months ago

I think you're still going to see a texture through them, even if they are sanded and polished.

This may end up being a good thing though, because the original ones were completely translucent with no starburst pattern in them, if I recall correctly.

#26 6 months ago

3D printed inserts just look terrible. I'd keep looking.

#27 6 months ago
Quoted from kermit24:

3D printed inserts just look terrible. I'd keep looking.

But would still be better than an insert cupped so badly it works as a ramp...

Guy who said he has an NOS set has not responded on here... I could copy those...

#28 6 months ago
Quoted from Lathroum:

But would still be better than an insert cupped so badly it works as a ramp...
Guy who said he has an NOS set has not responded on here... I could copy those...

I'd try to level the insert by using the dropper method first.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fix-cupped-inserts-without-clearing-whole-playfield

#29 6 months ago
Quoted from kermit24:

I'd try to level the insert by using the dropper method first.

Have you seen how badly these particular inserts cup?

I think there was a thread some time ago of someone removing those inserts and heating them just enough to get them flat again.

#30 6 months ago

That would fill the cupped area great, but do nothing for the pointy part that sticks up above the level of the PF.

1 month later
#31 4 months ago

I made these out of 1/4" lexan. seem to be holding up pretty good

1 week later
#32 4 months ago

Mine are warped too. Anyone ever try cutting out an insert from blue plastic sheet that is thicker than the original insert, or even the same thickness of the entire insert? It would be solid without a cavity but seems like it would look right but I've never tried it. If it wasn't quite that thick you could add a little bit of shim material at bottom of each corner to raise it up to pf level, or just let it be a little 'short' and carefully level it as the glue dries.

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