Each time I turn on my Tri Zone, the F2 solenoid fuse blows.

Here is what I have done so far:
1. Replaced driver board with new interconnect
2. Replaced drop target coils (x4)
3. Replaced ball release coil
4. Replaced eject hole coil
5. Replaced credit knocker coil
6. Cut power (red) wire to coin lockout coil

Here is what I have NOT done:
1. Replaced jet (pop) bumper coil (x3) - appear to be good - no burnt wire - free movement through coil
2. Replaced kicker coil (x2) - appear to be good - no burnt wire - free movement through coil
3. Replaced any capacitors

Here are items I have noticed that may or may not be related:
1. Horseshoe clip on one drop target is broken - not making connection to board (looking for replacement)
2. Credit knocker mechanism is missing (only coil present - don't even know what I need)
3. Weight from plumb bob tilt missing (wire is there, but not weighted - no clue where to get one)

I have not replaced any capacitors on the power supply board, and don't know if any would cause this to blow. I also have not added fuses to the bridge rectifier (solenoid or lamps). I picked up the supplies to do that this weekend, but have not had a chance to put them in yet.

Is there any way to check if the non-replaced coils are any good? I have a multimeter, but am a complete n00b and have no clue what I am doing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Don't know if this will help or not, but here are the pages from the manual that are relevant.
Copy of Tri Zone Manual05.jpg
Copy of Tri Zone Manual06.jpg
Copy of Tri Zone Manual11.jpg
Copy of Tri Zone Manual12.jpg
Copy of Tri Zone Manual15.jpg

stangbat - thank you. I am not in front of the machine right now. I only replaced the coils that were visibly burnt. The coils are all similar (24-875 & 23-900), and per advise received, replaced them all with 23-800. I will have to double-check that the orientation is correct, but I know they are all the same (reds always on the same side on all coils).

I will check the transistors this evening, though the driver board was rebuilt by someone else, and visually appears good.

No coils fire before the fuse blows. I will check out the wiki tonight, too. Thanks again.

So sorry for the delayed response. I have not been on in quite a while. In my case, the issue was with the coil for the plumb bob tilt. The previous owner had put the coil on backwards. So when I replaced the coil, I matched their settings - and put it on backwards. I was able to back-trace the issue and switch the coil around. Since then, it has been working great!