(Topic ID: 257595)

Travel time pinball coil identification

By pinballman3

4 years ago



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#1 4 years ago

I have an older gentleman that wants me to look at his Travel Time pinball machine and see if I can get it going for him before his family comes over for Christmas. He said everything was working fine and then the ball went in the spot between the flippers labeled START CLOCK. He said it scored but would not kick the ball out. He said it would kinda kick the ball a little but not enough to kick it out. My question is does anyone know what the coil for this spot is called. I am uploading a pic of the schematic showing the coils. There are three places that shoot the ball. What I call the saucer where it says 5000 when lit STOP CLOCK. Then where it delivers the ball to the shooter lane and finally the spot between the flippers that says START CLOCK. I could really use some help figuring out which coil is for each of these spots. To me the way the coils are labeled on the schematics is confusing. I need to know what the coil at START CLOCK is so I can study the circuit for it on the schematic. Also any suggestions of why the coil might not be kicking like it should would be welcomed. Thanks for reading.

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#2 4 years ago

I have never worked under the hood of a Travel Time, but have played one before.

My "guess" would be that Williams is calling that the shooter coil and it is likely getting a weak pulse due to dirty switches in the circuit. You should be able to confirm by checking the wrapper on that coil (if it still has one) and seeing if it is a G-22-550. If so, you'll want to concentrate on the circuit shown at column 9 on the schematic, starting with the level C switch on the #5 cam and follow with the switches on the shooter relay and the special relay.

Interesting that your photo shows the version made by Segasa of Spain. Is that the machine the gentleman owns?

#3 4 years ago

That is the shooter coil. Check these sw. Three score motor sw. are also involved, but they also do the eject hole (mid-playfield above the stop clock) so if that's working ok then don't worry about them).

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#4 4 years ago

Thanks for the replies. The picture is not of his actual machine. I just used the pic as a reference. I did not even notice it being a Segasa version. His is at his house and I am trying to get a good idea of the workings before I go over there. He said his is Williams. What is the difference in the machines by the different companies? Any mechanical differences? Are the schematics the same? I do not know if the eject hole works for sure or not yet. He just said it was all working fine then it went into the shooter hole and would not kick back out. So it could be the other 3 switches on the motor if I get over there and the eject hole does not work either. I will have to look at the schematic and see if I can figure out where those three switches are. Thanks

#5 4 years ago

Segasa was a Spanish co. that built machines under license from Williams, so all the basics should be the same. If the eject hole is not working at full strength either check these score motor sw.
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#6 4 years ago

The switches at Level B of the Index cam pulse the shooter relay, eject relay, and a couple other relays.
It is possible the shooter relay is not getting a strong enough pulse to firmly close the NO switch that passes current to the shooter coil, but I would concentrate on the circuit in column 9 first. Also check the leads to the shooter coil itself as a fractured wire or solder joint could be resulting in a very weak signal to the coil.

#7 4 years ago

I think these are the three motor switches involved. Am I correct?
6-A eject and shooter relay lock
5-C pulses eject coil, shooter coil and replay U. Step up
Index-B pulses eject, shooter out hole and 2000 re.

#8 4 years ago

I think the schematic text for the score motor switches is a little misleading.
The way I interpret the schematic is that the Index cam level B switch pulses (among other relays) the shooter relay, not the shooter solenoid.

If it were me, I would first inspect the shooter solenoid coil itself and make sure it is the correct number and then check the tabs where the wires attach to make sure neither wire is loose, broken off, or has a fractured solder joint.
Next, clean and adjust the switch at level C of the #5 cam, and finally, clean and adjust the switches in the shooter relay and the special relay.

You could use Howard's technique and jumper around the latter 2 switches to see if either makes the shooter coil kick normally.

#9 4 years ago

Well he called me and said he took some canned air and blew out inside the machine some and it started working. One less thing I have to do before Christmas. Thanks all

#10 4 years ago

I marked it resolved

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