(Topic ID: 174723)

Travel Time- Clock Works, but Pausing

By tengle93

7 years ago



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#1 7 years ago

I thought about adding to my other thread, but this is a separate problem in itself (at least I think it is).

Sure most of you know that Travel Time doesn't have # of balls but works on a clock/pulse unit that counts down in 5 second intervals until there is no time and your game is over. Had a problem with a switch that was causing the clock not to start, that's solved.

What it does (and has done but the other problem masked it), is it doesn't count down when the flippers OR the pop bumpers are working (which is most of the time). When they are not working it resumes counting down, works perfect. The clock is on the DC side of the machine and the pop bumpers also, flippers are AC. Thought the DC capacitor was bad, but that wasn't it.

Stumped...

What I've done...

1. Fixed clock with a new transistor, capacitor and resistor. (see schematic)
2. Checked capacitor just after the rectifier, old one worked but charged up slow so I changed it, same results.
3. Checked DC voltage out of rectifier, about 30+ volts (not sure what it's supposed to be)

IMG_2941 (resized).JPGIMG_2941 (resized).JPG

#4 7 years ago
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

Hi. Don't have that pin, but would chk the "0" position relay switch. thats your power source.
also, the switch on the start relay.
you may also have a bad rectifier. the pops would prob buzz a little, but may stop the clock pulse.
then, chk the other 4 switches on the right side.

Thanks Style Dr, checked Zero Pos Relay. Switch was a little dirty when tested as it was not making great contact, got excited I had found it, didn't help, bummer. Tested the rectifier and got readings in the proper direction, nothing in the other so I'm assuming it's ok. No buzzing on pops.

Quoted from fredsmythson:

It might be a short in the circuit caused by the vibration of the bumpers and flippers when they're activated. I'd first check all the switches that send power to the pulse unit circuit board. Make sure the following contact switches are clean and adjusted properly:
Clock unit relay EOS - switch with green/yellow/white wire and black/red wire
Start relay - switch with green/yellow/white wire and black/red wire
Shooter relay - switch with green/yellow/white wire and black/red wire
Extra time relay - switch with green/yellow/white wire and black/red wire
2000 relay - switch with green/yellow/white wire and black/red wire
Zero position relay - switch with green/yellow/white wire

Went through the whole circuit, tested continuity. Good contact, all seems good. Thanks for the ideas fred.

Hmm. Going to sleep on this.

#6 7 years ago
Quoted from rolf_martin_062:

Hi tengle93 +
I ask pinsiders with knowledge (electronics) to participate.
This post is "loud thinking / asking questions". Here http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2636&picno=65613&zoom=1 I see two buttons for "Start clock" - the Eject-Hole stops the clock - the shooter near the flippers starts the clock, an information light "clock is stopped" and an light "clock is running". In the center of the picture the "Clock" - I believe You can have up to 120 seconds on the clock, every five seconds the clock does one step counterclockwise down towards zero means game ends.
tengle93, question: do these lights work in Your pin ? (clock is stopped / clock is running) ?
I refer to: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2636&picno=4383&zoom=1 --- if You play good: You can play longer.
See the JPG - questions: IS THE (my blue G) Pulse-Relay the one that does actuate and so the Clock-Stepper does one step down ? --- IS THE (blue C) Start-Relay a simple Start-Relay ? At start of a new game it pulls-in and when the Reset (Score-Drums) is taking place: Start-Relay let go and is inactive for the rest of the game ? Well, a PROBLEM of understanding - I would like to see "Switch blue C" drawn OPEN - tengle93 - Switch with wire-color-B-R, wire-color-G-Y-W-I on Start-Relay: When You have an ball in play: IS THIS switch always open ? or always closed ? or what ? I'd have A LOT OF PROBLEMS when this switch would be CLOSED ALL THE TIME, so please write about.
On the bottom of the JPG You see "sinus-wave of AC (red)" - the bridge rectifier kind of uses a mirror and and makes pulsing DC. Its 1.0 Microfarad-Capacitor kind of makes the pulsing DC a bit "straightened / flattened" - a bit more like "ideal DC". tengle93: maybe (maybe) the capacitor is shot and the rest of the circuitry gets "pulsing DC" instead of "straightened DC" - and Your problem occurs ?
Transistors come as NPN- or PNP-transistors - Your pin has an NPN - an amplifier for a guitar uses NPN-transistors, the pickup on the guitar lets a bit of pulsing current flow through "red K", "yellow N", "red M". With some trick this pulsing is amplified - the big amount of (water / electricity) flowing through "red L", "red M" gets the same pulsing - AMPLIFIED (as THERE is much more water / electricity flowing).
Williams uses the transistor (more) as a Normally-Closed-Switch: Hindering water / electricity to flow from "L" to "M" --- all of a sudden: "a lot of water / electricity is allowed to flow from "L" to "M".
Because I see (JPG, blue B) Switch on Clock-Unit-step-down-EOS: I believe the 25 Microfarad-Capacitor acts like a battery - good for ONE stroke - the battery must be loaded for "next stroke to come". In the Combination "25 MF Capacitor --- 4.7 to 29.7 Kilo-Ohm Resistor is the factor "TIME". The 25-KO-Res-Potentiometer is for to "adjust length of "TIME".
tengle93, what is the function (how does it work) of (blue E) Extratime-Relay ? What is so special about making 2000 points (blue F) ? Look up in the schematics at the 6VAC-side: What makes the "clock is stopped" light shine-up ? What makes the "clock is running" light shine-up ? How can You determine "clock does not actuate when a pop-bumper is working" - pop-bumper constantly pulling ? or what ? How can You determine "clock does not actuate when a flipper-bat is working" - flipper-bat constantly pulling ? or what ?
Greetings Rolf

Hello Rolf,

Just getting to this, been busy. Anyhow thanks for some ideas, to answer question one, yes all lights light up when they are supposed to, clock performs its function perfectly, and does everything else EXCEPT when the flippers or pops are active. How do I know this? Well by just observing it while playing, the flippers & pops work fine (the clock freezes), then the clock function resumes if I stop using the flippers.

As far as the transistor, I did change it as the clock didn't work at all when I got the machine. Checked to verify that is was an NPN transistor, it is. Ordered the exact specs from Mouser Electronics.

Checked the Start Relay switch you mentioned and it is fine.

Now on to the relays. The 2000 point relay is important in that the rollover for that also awards 10 "time units" so that is the reason for that being a specific relay. I checked both and they seem ok with good contact.

Thanks again....I'll keep looking and thinking.

Todd

#8 7 years ago

Greetings Rolf

The Start Relay lights up the running/stopped lights. The Zero Pos Relay is energized by the wiper finger on the clock unit at the zero position as well as switch D on the lock relay which is in the circuit.

Since your last post the clock was not running, then partially running, then working correctly with the flippers/pops, played a game and it started alright, but then went back to doing the same thing. I'm close. Think that the zero position switch on the clock unit may be making poor contact even after cleaning and adjusting. Seems to be part of the rivet showing in the middle so maybe that's the problem.

Let you know what I find out.

Todd

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