Prairie Village, KS
Is there a substitute for an sgs122 transistor on my Data East CPU board? Can I use a tip122?
(Topic ID: 95434)
Linked Games
Last Action Hero
Data East, 1993-
Tales from the Crypt
Data East, 1993
According to the schematic in the manual, Q45 is a TIP122. If you don't have a TIP122 handy, replace that with a TIP102.
Marc
I have both of those. I'll give it a try. Thanks! Can you tell me on which page in the manual you found that?
Page 71. Top right side is a bank of driver transistors.
I assume you're replacing a shorter transistor?
Marc
I thought I was. But it didn't help. My ball release coil won't fire. With the game on, even when I ground the transistor, I get nothing. I don't even get a spark, so I don't know whether to go upstream or down. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.
I checked it while it was on the board and it seemed to be ok. However, grounding it didn't fire the coil. I took it off to test it off of the board and while doing to, on of the legs broke. I replaced it with a tip122 and the coil still doesn't work.
Grounding the tab gives a direct path to ground. If the coil does not fire there is a wiring/connector issue or the coil isnt hot.
There is continuity from the transistor to the coil. This is a machine I picked up that needs a lot of work. I had to replace the same coil because it was locked on and went bad. After replacing it and working on some other things, they coil worked fine until last night. I assume there is something bad before the transistor. Any ideas on where I should look first?
Quoted from GoodToBeDad:There is continuity from the transistor to the coil. This is a machine I picked up that needs a lot of work. I had to replace the same coil because it was locked on and went bad. After replacing it and working on some other things, they coil worked fine until last night. I assume there is something bad before the transistor. Any ideas on where I should look first?
Then the coil is not hot or it is open. Measure for DC voltage at both lugs of the coil. If DC is only on one lug of the solenoid, than your solenoid is OPEN (winding broke likely at the solder lug).
Something is not adding up. Is your backbox and cab grounds at different potentials?
How about ground right at the solenoid lug using a known good ground, like the ground braid in the cab.
This is fixed. Thanks for all of your input. There were some bad connection on the PPB board.
But now there's a new problem. When some of the flasher solenoids fire, they fire solenoids too. From what I've read, this may be a bad relay. Any thoughts?
That's the overlay relay (on WMS sys11 games, it's the "A/C Select", DE has a similar function relay).
Basically, you take a bunch of solenoid outputs, and you either energize a solenoid power line, or a flasher power line.
Therefore, you can fire the driver output, and depending on the relay settings, it fires either solenoid or flasher.
When you get solenoids firing when flashers should be, it means the relay isn't engaging and switching over to flashlamps enabled.
Check that it's working, reflow the solder points to it, et al.
Quoted from GoodToBeDad:There were some bad connection on the PPB board.
Did you not connect something 
Quoted from Atomicboy:Did you not connect something
Ha! No. The solder joints were really bad. 
Quoted from _litz:There should be a selection for the relay in the solenoid test. It should click when that driver fires.
I don't see one. There's a test for the GI relay.
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