TFA - Funny you say that as that was when the light turned on for me to. Was reading through post and saw that posted and realized that was what happened.

These are a must for almost every game. I love these protectors. Best thing Stern came up with ever. Especially if you have decal machines.

Can you explain why the metal protectors are a better choice over the plastic?

From what I understand, the metal protectors are better because the sit completely behind the legs (the are smaller than the leg) and give enough of a gap so that the leg cannot get to the decal. The plastic larger protectors sit wider than the leg and press into the decal which can be seen b/c it is sitting outside of the actual leg. I'm about to order the metal ones for my tfle combo that is on the way. I'll probably go ahead and get the felt ones and put them b/w the metal protector and the leg as well just incase i need a little more clearance.

My ACDC shipped with plastic protectors -- they're fine and I won't replace them. To me, there's not a huge difference, but I went with metal (stronger) vs. plastic when buying aftermarket.

If you're concerned with the few $$ difference, no problem with plastic.

EDIT:

If you're talking about the leg protectors BEHIND the legs, not a huge difference between metal & plastic.

If you're talking about the plastic protectors that sit about 1/2 inch OUTSIDE of the legs, don't use them with decals. Your decals will bunch up.

With respect to the Megatron drop target, I have mentioned it before, but I would love to see someone make a decal for the top of the target - one to match the playfield (i.e. have part of MT's face on it, and eliminate the stark whiteness of the target when it is down). And when it is up, you wouldn't notice the decal on the top due to the placement of the plastic overtop (i.e. the one that reduces airballs).

If anyone makes such a decal, I am in for one.

I used to hate the drop target but not I've learned to accept it.

For one, the plastic are complete crap. They ruin your cabinet even worse. They extend the dig in damage out beyond the leg area, making it impossible to even cover the damage with the legs alone at that point. The metal protectors creates a buffer, so the outside edges of your legs, never even touch the cabinet anymore. Resulting in no dig in. Wrinkling is caused by the edge of the leg being tight against the cabinet. From shaking and settling, the leg works like a chisel and as the cabinet settles downward, the top and sides of the leg dig upward. Creating mass damage. The plastic protector don't help as they dig in just like the legs do.

No...you'll just have to get some bigger ones next time...then the "grande" after that.
Well...it works for outlet/switchplate coverings anyway

I think there's a confusion here. You're talking about the plastic pincab protectors. They're good for covering up wear, but prob not a good idea for a new game.

Stern has now replaced their factory metal "protectors" with plastic ones which should have the same effect and make no difference. They make it so the leg is slightly off the machine and doesn't rub the decal.

yea, I was talking about the Plastic ones that cover up existing damage, but many claim them as protectors, which they are not. If anything they should be called damage extenders. Plastic or metal inner ones work the same, tho I think metal will last longer and not crack over time.

True...but even if they crack - if they're tightly pressed against the cab by the leg - you'll never really notice and it will still perform the same function.

Wow, they are plastic now?

Yup. Cheap, but hopefully one of those things that ultimately doesn't matter.

I'm working on that. Thinking of replacing the drop Target with a black one and putting a mylar covered decal on the top. Also working on a new mini playfield plastic that will stop the airballs into the playfield through the hole on the top. Just trying to figure out the design for the top that will look nicer.

One more 'dialing in' question:

I've gotten tons of stuck balls behind Starscream in the corner (added some drop dead foam -- still troubleshooting). Also a few stuck balls as the ball rounds the corner from the shooter lane into OP -- the ball just kind of sits there and will jar loose after a serious nudge.

Is this my pitch (about 6.7)? Or is this a common issue?

I had the stuck ball problem early on with Starscream. I discovered that the ball was hanging up on a screw for a decorative plastic in the left corner. I removed the screw and no problems with that hang up ever since-a year and a half and about 1000 games. Hope that helps.

Got you covered on both of those.

OP - probably pitch. But first make sure nothing is lose there and causing a hang up. Also put some wax on the pf Bach there to.

Behind starscream - go to home depot, Walmart or Lowes and pic up so 1 inch to 1.5 inch weather stripping for doors/windows. Should be almost like memory foam type material. It will come in a roll for about 5-10 bucks depending on the roll. Cut off about 1 inch of it. Now cut the foam at an angle where one side is tall and the other is at the ground level (looks like a wedge). Now put that in the corner behind ss with the high part against the back wall. It basically makes a ramp over the screw it gets stuck on. The weather stripping has double sided tape so no glue or anything is needed to mount it. Since doing this I haven't had one stick there again.

Edit - adding pic as I'm sure that isn't explain as well as it should be. TF2.jpg

My Ironhide PF doesn't move around like it should. Ball won't even leave the bottom of the PF.

Obviously it's rubbing on something or too tight or something.

Haven't had the time to get in there and dismantle it and sort it.

Anyone else had a similar issue?

rd.

Guys, thanks for all the great suggestions.

I re-calibrated the game's pitch (also known as getting my iPhone on the playfield and double checking everything) -- and indeedy do, the pitch was out of whack. Adjusted, and the game plays like butta.

@85vett & PC, I'll keep the drop dead foam over the screw unless I have another issue. If I have another hangup, I'll remove the screw (cheaper!), and if that doesn't work, off to Lowe's.

Once again, thanks for the help. We need to re-title the thread 'Help Mudflaps dial in his new game.'

Good to hear. I created a new thread with these and some other fixes to help out as I agree several people that may have the same issues may not read this thread.

I'm a newbee with tech stuff so I don't get to contribute much to the site so I'm just happy I can pay it forward for once.

Yeah, the elbow of the IH toy is dragging on the backboard. Shave off the back of his elbow(s) with an X-acto knife and/or bend the backboard back a bit. Even just a little drag from the IH toy will totally ruin your ability to crawl the ball up the mini-pf.

Thanks Rare .. That was my thinking too. Something rubbing or the cable harness too tight.

Just got to pull it out and fix it

rd.

You don't even have to take the mini pf out. Just x-acto a bit of his elbows w/ the playfield on the service rails. The arms are kind of a soft rubbery plastic...they slice like butter.

Hmmm ... Buttery arms .... Uuuurrrrrrrrgggggg

Homer.

Peace out to the lovers and haters of TFLE. I stand with the righteous! Autobots...ROLL OUT!!

Bang for your buck this LE is turning into a pretty good deal. They are around $5,200 shipped NIB, for a two flipper fan layout LE game compare that price to what the flippers are holding so many of the METLE's hostage for . . . not a bad deal.

@Tigerlaw
I didn't know you could still get these NIB. Can you please tell me who might have some for $5200 shipped?

Among others, Automated has them. I think many of the distros have them but I don't know the prices. Automated has the only price I a aware of that is $5,200. That was a couple weeks back; they moved some at that price point and may have raised it back by now.

That may have been short-lived. My distro quoted me $5700 a few weeks back, but you never know with Automated. It's worth a few phone calls, because $5200 shipped will probably be as good as it gets.

Automated still has the Combo at $5,295, but it doesn't indicated free shipping. I though of going this route, but found a HUO one local with about 50 plays. I paid $4,800.

Thanks, guys! I'll look into it.

My understanding from a friend, I do not have direct knowledge of this, is that if you call them they will negotiate that price to $5,200 shipped. That was a couple weeks ago and as Mudflaps pointed out things change quickly with Automated.

5k shipped is my magic number for it NIB . . . I'm not a huge fan of the theme but would like a fan layout game in my collection as I don't and have never had one. I guess I will have one with BSD and Predator soon.

Thanks again for the advice. I'm a childhood fan of TF, and at that price it's an LE I can actually afford. I'm a little torn between TFLE and LOTR (non LE). Most everyone would agree that LOTR is the better game, but is a great ten year-old game a better buy than a good NIB LE? Thoughts anyone?

I suspect you might get a *few thoughts* coming with a question like that

I own them both. LOTR NIB about 10 years ago, and TFLE(Decepticon) NIB.

That's all I'll say for now, not ready to write up a detailed side by side comparison just yet

Two people that I know of on Pinside have traded LOTR for TfLE, and I'm one of them. I think LOTR is the better game - top 5, maybe best ever IMO - but Im glad I made the trade. Id exhausted the possibilities of lotr rafter 3 years of play. TFLE is a great new game. Buy the TFLE while theyreout of favor and the value is low. You are getting a newer Limited Edition pin that's a great value for a good price. Lotrs are easy to find, and while they will always cost a fair amount themselves they Ae in abundance. Can't lose either way IMO.

^^
It's tough to have folks re-review based on updated code as the damage has already been done (with regard to first impressions). Same issue with X-Men.

Understandably, many folks didn't initially like TF based on many valid complaints (code, ball hangs, trough issues, etc), but those issues have been mostly fixed with time and patience.

I was late to the field with this game, so fortunately I started with code V1.8. My other issues have required lots of patience and forum searches. TF LE really is a great game with awesome flow, colorful art, and a nice sound package. All the fake OP call-outs in the world are forgotten as soon as Peter Cullen says "Megatron!" right before Megatron multi-ball. F$%^g love that one.

I had a similar issue with mine and found that the elbow was just barely touching. I did shave off a tiny section but also found an adjustment in the service menu to actually boost ironhide's playfield power. I turned that feature on, and now I can get the ball all the way up to the top with just one flipper if I wanted to. You may want to look into that. (not sure about older versions of the code, but I do have the new code that came out a month or two ago) Its not in the standard adjustments, but rather in the game feature adjustments.

Good luck!

New member to the TFLE club- loving the game. Got Mudflaps dialed in game- thanks for the effort- plays great.

You got an awesome pin! I know as I was once a former owner of this pin. Its only had great owners who really care about there collection. The combo TF:LE just looks so pretty and sounds are second to none in any themed pin. Better to have this dialed in pin HUO rather than new in box. Enjoy your new pin!

I enjoy my TFLE a lot.

I thought you were reselling it before opening it? Glad you're liking it!