(Topic ID: 89176)

Trade your Plastics

By galaxian

9 years ago


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  • 946 posts
  • 383 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 31 days ago by ourdave76
  • Topic is favorited by 116 Pinsiders

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#3 9 years ago

I have an entire set of used but nice condition TAF plastics and need some roller games plastics.

#13 9 years ago

someone that wants to take on the role of managing this should start a google doc spreadsheet?

3 years later
#151 6 years ago

Looking for Addams Family plastics >> need both sling and both inlane/outlane drain plastics

Please let me know if you have a spare old set. Yellowed is fine, just hoping for complete rather than buying an entire reproduciton set just to get the inlane/drain ones.

3 weeks later
#178 6 years ago
Quoted from cfh:

I guess i could do a video about how we do plastics. but again, it would assume you have Photoshop, and have Photoshop skills. It's an expensive program! Frankly we use a really old version (v6), well before CSS version numbers. Because what we're doing with plastics isn't really that involved.
But after scanning at 300 dpi, you have to make sure the imported file keeps its size parameters. Otherwise you'll struggle with that! Also the scans are never clean. You need to "clean it up" in photoshop and do color correction and fix missing graphics, etc. Artistic liberties are sometimes taken for pieces that are missing!
Also i often modify the plastic too. A lot of plastics have thin areas that are prone to breakage. Perfect example is on F14 Tomcat, the top center plastic with the flasher domes. They ended up not using 2 flashers in that design, so i made those areas thicker. Still can use my version with 4 flashers, but it's just less prone to breakage because the areas are thicker. Another one i modified was on Creature. That cadillac plastic on the left... we modified that into two plastics, so it's less prone to breakage. and if it does break, we can easily replace it.
I should also mention that to complicate things even more, often there are pieces riveted to a broken plastic. Those have to be removed before scanning obviously. Then after the new plastics is made, re-rivet the piece(s) back in place. We have a rivet press so it's not a huge deal. But you would be surprised at the number of plastics that have flasher domes or little signs riveted to the main plastic. It's another level of complication...
I should point out that we are *not* making plastics for anyone but us. by copyright laws we can do this for our own games. to avoid any issues, we don't make plastics for others. Well, that's not entirely true. I mean "the law" is part of our club and he needed some plastics for his games, and i helped him out. New pinball magic stage doors, a couple meteor plastics (for a $400 meteor i hooked him up with), and those super thin right ramp Whirlwind plastic surrounds (which are always broken). But other than that, really have not done any plastics for others, because of the issues involved.
So how did we get here? i mean what was the push to make this all happen? Well, we're working on a custom game, and plastics had to be created for that. This is what pushed the entire process. After we experimented with a zillion different ideas on how to do plastics, we landed with this. We were quite happy with the results (coming up with something that was cost efficient and not overly complicated). Then we just went through all the 400 games at the museum, and figured out we had a crap load with broken plastics....

well put together tutorial thread with pics and videos are ALWAYS appreciated and will be a great reference for years to come.

If you feel up to it, I am sure many would appreciate the visuals.

#184 6 years ago

I am still looking for TAF inlane and slingshot plastics.

I would prefer to not buy a full set just to grab the inlane plastics.

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