(Topic ID: 193563)

TP1, TP8 low voltage

By UltraPeepi

6 years ago


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  • 28 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Gorgar666
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

My TOM had some occasional odd behaviors. The caps were original. I replaced the 25V 15000MF caps with 35V 15000MF.

TP1 measures 10V (should be 12V unregulated)
TP6 measures 67V (should be 50V)
TP8 measures 16V (should be 18V)

Had I expected problems, I would have measure the voltage before.

Clearly the low voltages are a problem. A bit high is OK, but is 67V too high?

I played a couple of balls on it. The flippers were really weak, especially after cradling the ball. Then it started kicking out multiple balls into the shooter lane, so I powered off.

I'm not sure what my next steps are.

#3 6 years ago

>>Your 50V is fine
Great. Thanks.

Flippers were fine before the cap changes. Also, I rebuilt the flippers a few months ago.

My main question is around how I isolate the problem with the low voltage.

#5 6 years ago

Sure. Makes sense. I didn't know if too much current draw might also cause a low voltage - but I suppose it couldn't draw more current than the fuses allow.

#8 6 years ago

Good to know about the caps. A good lesson, I suppose. Next time I won't be so quick to change components. I DID damage some of the through holes, for sure. One had to have a jumper wire because there was nothing to solder to.

I did a continuity check on everything. But I'll do some more testing and report the results.

BTW, a friend who owns MANY machines says he doesn't believe the low voltage is enough to be a problem. I don't know about that. Maybe something else went wrong at the same time; but the flippers were noticeably weaker.

#11 6 years ago

I removed connectors to ensure that there was no load on the 12VU. It still measures 10V. I measure the AC voltage at the input J112 and got 12VAC. It's gonna be awfully hard to get 14-15VU DC on TP1, with a 12VAC input to the BR.

So I'm working my way backward.

Does anybody have a reference of where to go to help me traverse back? The TOM operations manual isn't much help with schematics. My MSF has pretty complete schematics for everything.

#12 6 years ago

OK, on P 3-26, it says J112 White-Green 9.8VAC from xfrmr secondary.

Somebody help me understand, how putting 9.8VAC through a bridge rectifier, and smoothing it with a capacitor, is going to yield > 10V DC.

Clearly, I am rusty with my electrical knowledge.

#13 6 years ago

I think I've found the source of the problem. I removed C30 (that I had recently replaced). Attached are photos of the top and bottom of the circuit board.

HERE IS THE PROBLEM (or at least A problem): I did a continuity test between the top and bottom eyelet ring, and it came up as an open circuit. Because the run is on the TOP of the circuit board, the cap was not making proper connection.

This means I must have pulled the eyelet. I think they sell circuit board repair kits with replacement eyelets.

TOM_Cap - 1 (resized).pngTOM_Cap - 1 (resized).png
TOM_Cap - 2 (resized).pngTOM_Cap - 2 (resized).png

#16 6 years ago

I am definitely going to learn how to replace the rivet/eyelets. Thanks for the image showing the proper size. But for now, I am going to solder a trace wire. I can remove the wires when I install the eyelets. I'll let you know whether it solves the issue.

Hopefully somebody else can learn from my mistake.

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

elevate the cap on its leads and solder it to the top side

I thought of that. I have some silicone around somewhere. So there is no reason to NOT try this first.

#21 6 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Perform a "solder stitch"

I accept your terms.

I was just watching a video where this was mentioned (at the 2:30 mark)

The pinwiki link gives it in good detail. Thanks.

#22 6 years ago

The solder stitch was straight forward and easy. I just scraped off a bit of the run, and soldered some strands of wire. TP1 is now reading 14.4V.

I verified that this was the only replaced cap that had an issue. However TP8 is still reading a bit low: 16.6V, when it should be 18V.

I ordered some eyelets. I'll practice on some useless circuit boards before I install them on my power board. If I install them, I'll post the results here.

TOM_Cap - 1 (1) (resized).pngTOM_Cap - 1 (1) (resized).png
TOM_Cap - 6 (resized).pngTOM_Cap - 6 (resized).png

#24 6 years ago
Quoted from mcklit:

1,5 mm rivets and a tool to install them in the PCB

Help. Here is what I ordered
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018RSYL1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

The product details say
"Total Size : 3mmx3mm(Dmax x H);SIze : M1.5x3 (Dmin x H)"

What I received, however, appears to be much smaller. I measure with my caliper. The outer diameter of the eyelet is 2.1mm, the outer diameter of the shaft is 0.8mm, the height is 2.3mm.

Did I order the right thing, but was just sent the wrong item? It seems so to me. Or did I order the wrong size? If what I ordered was wrong, can someone provide a link to the correct size eyelets?

Thanks.

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