Weak flippers could be flippers that need to be rebuilt. Your 50V is fine, so that’s not an issue.

Check the ball trough optical switches. Games eject multiple balls when it can’t keep track of balls in the trough. Common problem.

Marc

The 12v is low and that’s what runs your flipper cabinet switches, so there’s something to fix for sure.

You need to follow the power and measure it as it comes into the driver board and measure it from point to point until you find where it drops.

There are only a few components in the 12v circuit. There is a bridge rectifier and the capacitor you changed. Then the 12v is send to port (jumper) J116, J117 og J118 pin 2. See schematics below.

So I would point my attention to the bridge rectifier.
And - also check the capacitor again. It's more or less impossible to change that, without damaging the through hole. So you should check that the repair you have done is solid and you have good continuity and connection from the cap to the PCB.

Good luck

12v (resized).JPG

12v-out (resized).JPG

They are separate circuits. The 50v being that high is totally normal. Your 12v circuit is where you need to look. It’s powering all the optical switches which is the common voltage in all of your issues.

Always suspect prior rework; those caps are delicate. I still don’t like working on them and I finally have the right gear and a decent amount of experience.

Paging zaza

Good luck.

Marc

It’s a 12v circuit not a 10v for a reason

typical values for testpoints are somewhat higher for TP6 and TP8.
But TP1 12Vunr is 14.5-15.0 Volt (without load) so the 10 Volt you measured is too low.
And without capacitor C30 the ir-LED is pulsing at 120Hz. I can imagine that it will cause a weak flipper.

I would send it to ChrisHibler for repair. Let him go over the whole thing and make it right.

Marc

You have a few options here.

The easy option is to follow the suggestion of Marc and send it out for repair. It will take some time and cost some money. But then it's done with!

The other option is to repair it yourself. The - not so good looking - repair requires that you run a jumper wire from the cap. This can be done with the right soldering skills and wire. I'm not a fan - but it will work. The other option is to do the repair the hard way. However - it requires tools you might not have and skills above average. You'll need 1,5 mm rivets and a tool to install them in the PCB. And just for the record - I don't own the tools or skills

If you prefer to go by jumper wire you already have the schematics needed. If you look at the images I posted in my last reply I'll see where the plus and minus of the cap should go.

Good luck!

nitte (resized).JPG

In some cases you don't have to replace the through hole eyelets. You can simply elevate the cap on its leads and solder it to the top side of the board where the traces are (and where the top of the eyelets are intact). To secure the cap against vibration apply a dab of silicone or hot melt glue between the cap and board.

It will be fine in a case like this. If there were traces on more than one side or couldn't get to it because of iron clearance issues, then I'd go for eyelet repair.

Stop...hold it right there. Step away from the board slowly...
First, you've learned to not replace parts without a really, really good reason.
Removing those caps, as noted above, is tough to do without proper tools, technique, experience.
I use an iron tip that reaches both leads so I can heat them both at the same time. No other way works reliably (except ChipQuik).

Perform a "solder stitch". See: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Repairing_traces_or_creating_a_.22solder_stitch.22

If you raise the part off the board, you'll create a "moment arm". The mass of the cap will vibrate and eventually cause an issue. You won't have a solid mechanical connection...even with glue, which is ugly...don't even think of it.

I've used this technique hundreds of times. It works and works well.

You =could= rebuild the through-hole, but it's costly, and you can get by without doing that.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

16.6 is fine. 18 is merely the spec. You'll be OK
Nice job on the stitch.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/contact/
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

So - I'm back from vacation.

Looks to me, like you got the wrong item. Just looking at the height - which by spec says it should be 3 mm. - tells me that something is wrong. You should talk to Amazon and have the item returned and replaced with the eyelet I posted above.

If you look at the screen dump I posted with the 1.5 mm eyelet, you can see the specs in German language. I'm not an expert in German, but as far as I understand it, the measures should be:

Inner size: 1.5 mm.
Outer size: 1.9 mm.
Shaft height: 2.7 mm.
Head size: 3.1 mm.

But keep in mind that you need the right tools also to "install" the eyelet in the PCB.

Good luck and keep us posted on the progress.

Just thought I would add.... it was quite astute of you to notice the flipper behavior. What happened here exactly is your 12 Volt voltage dropped as you noted. This affects the flipper optos so that they send a very rapid on/off repeated pulse to the fliptronics which leads to bad things. Instead of a flipper coil switching from high power coil to low power when the flipper is held, to rapidly pulsing the high power coil only. So rapid in fact, its the same as keeping the high coil constantly energized. This gets the coil very hot in a hurry. If you would have felt it, it would have been extremely hot. When coils get this hot, their power is reduced. Not sure why, but they do. Much more of that and you would have blown the fuse, melted the coil, or a combination of the 2. You're probably ok, but might want to check coil resistance just to be safe. Good luck. Sounds like you are on your way to getting the 12V issure figured out....

-Jeff

F116 low 12v pin(7v) but the 5v pin is good. I’m using a ColorDMD splitter at F116. Which isn’t turning on due to low 12v. Ball trough sometimes ejecting all the balls as Power on to troubleshoot. I believe F116 is the reason as well. I tested
TP1 4
TP2 5
TP3 12
TP4 0.359
TP6 71
TP8 17
Any ideas?
Also the F116 fuse is glowing red as if is overheating.

The Shadow