Let me know what you find out, mine just did the same thing. I changed old coil sleeve, and it worked fine for a few plays, then broken again. I plan on changing coil next to see if that remedies the issue.

I know im redundant but finding ribbon cables vausing failures like thg his esp the small one from logic to driver.

Don’t assume the coil is bad. You have power - now do a quick check and see if grounding the tab of the associated transistor on the driver board causes the coil to fire - that will let you know of the downstream wiring to the coil is sound and if the coil itself works. Report back.

Your game doesn't know what a diverter is.

It does know a switch the ball would trigger on a switch past it didn't work. So be sure switch is working, not #15, but a switch later that has been diverted.

Does the diverter fire in solenoid test ?

LTG : )

you should measure almost the same voltage on both lugs if the coil isn't fired. If one side measures 0 and the coil is not activated, check the coil. Sometimes the thin wire going from the coil to the lug is broken due to mechanic stress. (in this case, unwind the coil one turn and resolder it to the lug)

I had to figure that out today as well. Not sure if I did it correctly, but to ground out the tab, yours will be Q26 for ramp diverter, refer to pg. 3-5 in manual. I placed an alligator clip wire on the tab at the hole, then touched the other end BREIFLY to ground braid or leg of the machine. I had to do that to test Bazaar eject coil, and it fired. Note you will get a small arc or spark, I was hesitant at first, but I think I did it right. I searched high and low for info on how to do that too. Checking the switches before and after the diverter too is a good idea as LTG suggested. Check the resistance on the coil too, that may help others with more experience than I do to help you out.

The test 2pupPinz did is correct, you have to connect the collector of the TIP120 with ground and one way to do this is as described.
If it turns out the transistor is faulty, you should also check the small transistor driving the TIP120, they sometimes fail together and in that case you have to replace them both or the small one wil continue to blow up the tip120 (mostly replacing the TIP120 is sufficient). This test also checks if the connection between powerdriver and coil is OK.
Succes

The TIP's do have 3 legs: TIP120 (resized).png
and it's the collector, that is connected to the heatsink, you need to connect to ground. This way you bypass the transistor.
The emittor is already connected to ground.

But why? Why would they do that unless there was a problem?

Yeah - that’s probably the best bet. Just doesn’t make much sense. Glad you figured it out - TOTAN is a great game.

Easy to go over. Remove the plunger assembly, does it wiggle freely ? Watch the pawl when the plunger pulls it in, anywhere near the long EOS leaf blade ? If so your blade may be worn off enough to snag it once in awhile. Swap the flipper button opto boards, might have a flaky opto or an interrupter not always doing a good job returning and blocking the opto beam.

LTG : )

I think you may need to just rotate the coil a quarter turn so the lugs point out towards the right side (towards pop bumpers). You wil need to remove the coil stop to rotate it.

Been there myself!