(Topic ID: 166541)
Linked Games
Tales of the Arabian Nights
Williams, 1996
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Quoted from dmacy:When off the purple caps look better.
Lookin forward to see it when on.... test both configurations together and share pics here before making up your mind and mount the ramps, will ya?
Quoted from AlexSMendes:Lookin forward to see it when on.... test both configurations together and share pics here before making up your mind and mount the ramps, will ya?
Will do. I'm pretty far away from ramps. Just got the light harness on yesterday and still need to put in the bulbs and test them all, solder the pop bumper lighting, solenoid harness, finish tumbling, etc. Hopefully soon!
Rio Rancho, NM
Quoted from dmacy:I should have taken a picture of the underside, but I did get the switch harness cleaned up in the ultrasonic and in place. So far, 99% of all dimples were dead on. For those that haven't done this swap, or any swap, the dimples are still a guide. I always check each one because sometimes you need to deviate for a perfect alignment. But this being my 2nd CPR play field has been great as far as hole locations/dimples. But predrill as mentioned and use a drill stop!
Light harness is drying so hoping to get that put in tomorrow. I put on the rubbers. Ironically, the Marco set included 2 1.5" rings. I wasn't doing a double take until I realized that they accidentally sent these instead of flipper rubbers. Never hurts to have spare rings and i have SuperBands on anyway so I have little use for the flipper rubbers.
And for Mrs. MezelMod, I finally have an excuse to put on your plastic here. Any chance you'd make these in other colors?
Good news- we now have this available in clear! Thank you to ULEK store for creating this replacement piece. Let me know via our [email protected] and I'll get you set up!
Hey Dmacy- what is your most important learning or thing you wish you would have done differently? I've been reading the Playfield Swap Guide thread and plan on using it as my 'bible' for the project. Would love to hear your perspective.
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:Hey Dmacy- what is your most important learning or thing you wish you would have done differently? I've been reading the Playfield Swap Guide thread and plan on using it as my 'bible' for the project. Would love to hear your perspective.
That's a great thread to use. The only things different is 1. I wish I would've sent out the new playfields for a professional clear coat. 2. That I purchased an ultrasonic a long time ago. 3. Having the right tools and spare parts when something needs fixed or replaced is huge time saver.
Quoted from TaylorVA:Looking good!!
How did the playfield rails fit on the repro playfield? I've had some alignment issues with reproduction playfields but it might just be games with multiple runs like TZ.
No they fit great as always! And look fantastic.
Quoted from dmacy:That's a great thread to use. The only things different is 1. I wish I would've sent out the new playfields for a professional clear coat. 2. That I purchased an ultrasonic a long time ago. 3. Having the right tools and spare parts when something needs fixed or replaced is huge time saver.
Are you saying your not happy with the CPR clear on this one?
Quoted from mollyspub:Are you saying your not happy with the CPR clear on this one?
It's ok. Having one machine I swapped in a playfield for that was professionally cleared, the quality is obviously better and it's held up great with a few thousand plays. I'm just becoming more particular.
Quoted from Spyderturbo007:I'll expect my invitation to play this in the mail any day now.
I don't know since you've slowly been hustling everyone that you play there and taken GC scores! 
Waiting on some parts so I tested out the BriteCaps. Still not sure which one I like more.
Quoted from mollyspub:I'd stick with the purple caps! Ive been courious to see how these look on totan. Any other LED mods planned ?
I'm leaning that way more and more too. I already have LED's in it so planning to just transfer. I found that I thought I put in WW frosted in most of the upper GI but had CW frosted. Purple frosted are in most of the lower GI like slings. Going with some WW frosted and keeping the color matched inserts (with WW for red and yellow inserts) and pink for the ORB inserts. Had it that way before and really liked the look.
Ok little left until I get some parts. LED's in and tested. All harnesses installed and soldered where needed. Going with the regular purple caps. Thinking of going with Harem drop hole in the back using purple strip.
I am towards completion on this same project,my game was routed most of it's life.There are other threads to read on this. The tiger magnet just plain will not fit on the CPR, you can get a new magnet at Marco that will,& convert it to an adjustable height style like TZ. Lots of the holes are full of clear coat. This was my first swap,what a job,but,will be worth it.Good luck,it is looking good.
Quoted from HIPPY:I am towards completion on this same project,my game was routed most of it's life.There are other threads to read on this. The tiger magnet just plain will not fit on the CPR, you can get a new magnet at Marco that will,& convert it to an adjustable height style like TZ. Lots of the holes are full of clear coat. This was my first swap,what a job,but,will be worth it.Good luck,it is looking good.
There weren't any issues with the tiger magnet on mine but there was a major problem with clear in the holes. See posting 25. I wish I had know this then.
I had the same problem on mine with the holes. I also had trouble getting the shooter lined up . I ordered a sword on eBay from a favorite mod seller of mine. This is for the plastic sword next to the launch. His is stainless steel,cut-outs for the jewels,slow changing LEDs, his eBay name is Judge Dredd pinball,$85, free ship,check it out,his stuff is always top quality. My game had been in bars & routed all it's s life,no protection. Lots replaced,still fixing it,but, it will be a beauty.That is a great idea on the back drop hole light.
Well after all I did stick with the plain pop bumper caps. I'm nearly done other than putting in the cabinet and a few odds and ends parts waiting to get.
I did notice the same with the tiger magnet: seems to sit a bit low with the original core so I may convert to adjustable one.
So far the hex posts look like they'll be working fine. Both side ramps were fitted and appear to be good.
New plastics installed on all but the outlane guides. I have them but haven't installed them yet.
Installed the small purple LED strip for the rear drop hole. Tied to GI and attached to the metal "U" bracket as point to mount. Tested before the ramp install and ball doesn't hit there. Have it set up with a disconnect in case it's too bright or distracting. Honestly it's lost back there with all the ramps.
Also installed an extra warm white LED socket for the left rear hole. There's two back there so tied to the smaller one as the larger is for the ramp magnet wiring.
Lastly, I'm thinking I'm going to try installing some purple LED's or color changers to the center clear plastic at the scimitar (where ball sits on from shooter to skill shot). I'm sure some others have done this but seems to be a nice effect.
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I thought I got it from Peter: http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/
I spent the time yesterday wrapping most of it up. I had some switch adjustments to make for the ball lock area and two back switches.
Couple of suggestions that may help others:
First problem: Even with hand checking switches, I still had to tweak some especially for the ball lock area. If you don't have the second ball lock switch right, it will assume the ball is in play which is self explanatory. Plan on spending time with this using several balls to test that once the first one is locked that where the second ball is triggers the switch and doesn't move past it "unactuating" the second ball switch. I had to take my time getting this perfect. Tested multi-ball and was working normal as it should.
Second problem: In my case double checking everything once before moving the playfield into the machine and double checking again once in I still had no right slings working. After some time tracing everything out several times over, I finally found the white/red (Manual calls orange/red) wire disconnected at the top right red targets. Was really hard to see with all the wiring that's in that area, so I had to undo all the zip ties I had done to trace it out. Resoldered it back and all working again!
Third Problem: I had adjusted the pops to be sensitive like I always do and installed new spoons as well as every other new part for the pop bumpers. I have to a bit too sensitive so other coils firing like other pops will set the others off. I haven't adjusted this yet but will this week.
Fourth Issue: All most posts were correct, but I did have to add some washers to the skill shot assembly. It was perfect before but perhaps I had a washer that I installed that wasn't on a post before. Just be prepared to tweak with some washers, but my post guide worked dead on for me. Hope that it helps others.
This may be common sense too, but take your time cleaning the playfield slider brackets before installing on the playfield and putting into your game. Mine were all gunked up with dirt and grease and I did install a pair of new springs since one was mangled up. I put a very conservative amount of Superlube gel on the areas that slide. The playfield now slides in and out with ease.
Hope to have some final posts in the next few weeks when I can start really play testing it when the parts come back.
Otherwise, this swap was relatively simple and thanks to the advice from all those that posted in here and other past threads have really helped. I'm waiting to get my ramp magnet bracket back and shooter lane bracket from brass plating so I can install them as well as the wire form (Already brass plated by Mike the other year RIP).
Quoted from jecase:Looks very nice. I wish that somebody (Cliffy or Titan) would make the yellow lantern posts in the material they make their other post sleeves in so that they would not get dirty as quickly and would clean better.
I agree, and most places sell them cut too short. It's a one game only AFAIK, so I guess it's hard to justify. Good idea for one of us to contact and ask. Even if its just a few colors...
Montreal, QC
Sweet looking machine. I am also getting slowly prepared to do the swap. In fact, I am currently working out a few issues with the machine before I restore it.
I could use a bit of help.
- Can someone post a close up photo of the coil that drops the ball below the playfield? I'd like to see the wire connections to the coil and the diodes orientation.
- If anyone feels like taking the dagger plastic above the ramp diverter off ... I would love a photo of that coil and it's connections too.
Basically, my problem is that whenever the ball would try to drop into the playfield (in front of the genie), it would go down part way and then reset the machine.
I switched in another Power Board ... and the reseting stopped, however, I have the same problem that the coil drop would only go down part way then Fuse F103 would blow.
Other notes: The lock magnet is currently not working (possibly needs to be replaced). And I noticed that the Ramp diverter coil seems to be defective and one wire was disconnected, so I took it our entirely, and have ordered another one. Suspecting it had been locked on and need to fix transistor on original board.
So, if you think you know the cause of my Drop Coil blowing the F103 fuse, I'm all ears. Could a defective coil do that? There was a slash/dent on the exterior of the coil.
Thanks for any help.
I'll get some pics to you when I get home today if none else gets those for you.
As for your other questions, I'd suggest also posting in the TOTAN club thread, or even a general WPC95 help as well as checking out PinWIKI. You can ohm out coils to see if the dent is a cause. But I'd suggest attacking each issue one at a time.
3 weeks later
First parts installed over the weekend on my new playfield-- nervous as hell attaching them-- last thing I need to do is screw up this gold playfield. The lower, flipper area is so dirty- found the coils had no covers. Found lots of hodge podge screws and LEDs. So, I'm beginning to order the various replacements.
Any recommendations on colors for flipper rubbers? I also see the Marco rubber ring set is white. My old set is black- what looks better?
Quoted from dmacy:I don't know since you've slowly been hustling everyone that you play there and taken GC scores!
Waiting on some parts so I tested out the BriteCaps. Still not sure which one I like more.
Mind if I ask 1,000 questions now that I'm starting this process? So what made you choose the BriteCaps vs. the LED Pop Bumper rings (Comet) from the Superflux, or the Afterburner (Cointaker). I'm getting tired just thinking about all these choices!
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:First parts installed over the weekend on my new playfield-- nervous as hell attaching them-- last thing I need to do is screw up this gold playfield. The lower, flipper area is so dirty- found the coils had no covers. Found lots of hodge podge screws and LEDs. So, I'm beginning to order the various replacements.
Any recommendations on colors for flipper rubbers? I also see the Marco rubber ring set is white. My old set is black- what looks better?
Looks like you're doing fine!
I prefer white but believe black was the original. Go with your tastes. Some prefer translucent rubbers or Titan's.
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:Mind if I ask 1,000 questions now that I'm starting this process? So what made you choose the BriteCaps vs. the LED Pop Bumper rings (Comet) from the Superflux, or the Afterburner (Cointaker). I'm getting tired just thinking about all these choices!
I liked that the BriteCaps have the option to flash if desired when activated. And was considering their frosted tops. That's was really why. The others have great options too.
1 week later
I got the most of my parts from Ron (Thanks Ron it looks great) and was able to wrap this up. I need to get some full games on it that include the wire form and ramp magnet frame and clip that were missing (out to be plated) until now. It played fine but put little play on it after the swap.
It's super fast and smooth. Scores have dropped due to the speed. Lol.
Here's some pics of the finished swap:
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Quoted from dmacy:I got the most of my parts from Ron (Thanks Ron it looks great) and was able to wrap this up. I need to get some full games on it that include the wire form and ramp magnet frame and clip that were missing (out to be plated) until now. It played fine but put little play on it after the swap.
It's super fast and smooth. Scores have dropped due to the speed. Lol.
Here's some pics of the finished swap:
You should do a skeleton mod for your bed of nails. I did my own with a plastic skeleton I bought on EBay. I bought a bag of them. I put the LEDs in the eye sockets and attached them to general illumination. Since the LEDS are not anti ghosting they pulse with the GI electrical surges and it looks like the skeleton is alive. If you want one of these pm me and I'll just send you the skeleton and the LEDs for the eyes. I also have a sword that glues into the skeleton's hand.
I also noticed that you didn't cap your dividers on your skill shot ramp. When I got my TOTAN that skill shot ramp was pummeled. The dividers (between each hole) were smashed flat from the metal to metal contact with the ball. If you take some clear plastic tubbing and slice it, you can fit it right on those dividers and use just a touch of glue or epoxy to hold them in place. You can't see them unles you look right on top of them. It looks factory and it will make that ramp last forever.
I'm about ready to send my stuff out to be re-plated and want to make sure I have everything-- can anyone validate this list?
-Sword
-Apron
-Skill shot (bought a new one)
-Wire ramp
-Fire magnet diverter wire
-Spikes
-these two playfield brackets (photo)
I'm also interested in an alternative to the shiny gold plating on the legs, cabinet, coin door. I've wondered about a more matte finish like the Genie lamp.
What do you guys think?
Quoted from whthrs166:I also noticed that you didn't cap your dividers on your skill shot ramp. When I got my TOTAN that skill shot ramp was pummeled. The dividers (between each hole) were smashed flat from the metal to metal contact with the ball. If you take some clear plastic tubbing and slice it, you can fit it right on those dividers and use just a touch of glue or epoxy to hold them in place. You can't see them unles you look right on top of them. It looks factory and it will make that ramp last forever.
Thanks, and I actually did do that but they keep coming off. I've tried everything but perhaps mine gets played a lot? I just hated taking the glass off every 10-20 games that I decided I'd deal with the damage.
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:I'm about ready to send my stuff out to be re-plated and want to make sure I have everything-- can anyone validate this list?
-Sword
-Apron
-Skill shot (bought a new one)
-Wire ramp
-Fire magnet diverter wire
-Spikes
-these two playfield brackets (photo)
I'm also interested in an alternative to the shiny gold plating on the legs, cabinet, coin door. I've wondered about a more matte finish like the Genie lamp.
What do you guys think?
I think you hit everything most do or at least what I did. I didn't send out the two brackets as I discovered I forgot to ship them, but they're not really noticeable. The spikes I didn't consider but that would look really nice done. I'd get the shooter lane bracket done too. It's its own part and not part of the apron if you didn't know. It looks odd if its not done with the apron. I also did the left metal return hole bracket.
Pics of the stuff I sent out. Ignore the wire form as that was for my IJ.
Quoted from dmacy:I think you hit everything most do or at least what I did. I didn't send out the two brackets as I discovered I forgot to ship them, but they're not really noticeable. The spikes I didn't consider but that would look really nice done. I'd get the shooter lane bracket done too. It's its own part and not part of the apron if you didn't know. It looks odd if its not done with the apron. I also did the left metal return hole bracket.
Pics of the stuff I sent out. Ignore the wire form as that was for my IJ.
So shiny and awesome-- thanks for the validation and for the tip on the shooter lane bracket.
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