HEP covers it in this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-totan-build
He has detail about each and every type of post and how he installs it.
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HEP covers it in this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-totan-build
He has detail about each and every type of post and how he installs it.
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:Post of the week for certain- spent a good hour reading through this post- SO helpful. thank you for mentioning it. That post technique is absolutely awesome and worked like a charm.
Glad to help. Good luck with the rest of the work. Great game and worth the time!
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:One more question- then I'll have more photos of my 'progress so far' - its slow and steady, not like Rotor Dave is so fast- but that's ok, I'm learning.
Should these orbits be coated so they don't get that ball groove? Thought I read somewhere about that as an approach but can't remember.
Don't coat them. They will get ball grooves slowly and that's just fine. The ones you're cleaning now took 20 years
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:Ok, so the consensus is to keep on rolling with the ball guides. Stay with the 80 grit then- what say you all. It is looking really great and want to continue without wrecking it.
No luck yet on the broken post- tried vice grips but can't get a bite. Tomorrow will ask our machine shop neighbors for input.
Sorry about your broken post. Maybe High_End_Pins has a good solution.
Suggestion: you don’t need that playfield protector. In home use, that game will stay clean and perfect.
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:Well- this won't be an HUO (good news and bad news I suppose). We run a small arcade- 505 Pinball- and have seen our share of wear and tear on the collection. Really want to keep this one in good shape! I went back and forth given advice on both sides of the protector vs. not. Because we are going to be carrying a similar product in our webshop, I thought this would be a great test case for the product in an arcade environment.
In that case, that makes a ton of sense. Good luck with the rest of the work - it's going to be great when completed.
T nuts are really more about thread than anything, so put bolts through them and see to be sure what size they are. Pretty sure things mount under the PF and attach through the T Nuts.
As for the back panel, it’s tricky, but you can clamp just in front of the back panel and have it still work. Sometimes you need a clamp with a wide enough mouth, etc.
Great trick for those is to install them lightly enough so that the threads just pole out of the underside of the playfield. Then get a nut and nut driver and slowly draw the pop bumper nail down by tightening the nut.
Stops you from having to hammer, etc.
If the holes are too small and you hammer the screws in, the wood can split like that. Jay is right that you won’t see it once done.
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:Oh and what is the best technique for these dumb pop bumper lamp socket wires.
Just shoot me and put me out of my misery.
What sockets? Bare flat wire or braided/insulated.
Marc
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