TOTAN PLAYFIELD SWAP- the journey

(Topic ID: 234742)

TOTAN PLAYFIELD SWAP- the journey


By mrs_mezelmods

21 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 33 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by pintechev
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 21 days ago

Hoping to document my journey swapping out to a CPR gold playfield. But much of what I’m hoping is for insights and support from the experts.

#2 21 days ago

I’ve already removed everything and in the process of reassembling. Today I’m tackling the posts on the upper playfield.
I’ve run across my first challenge with these posts.
They don’t easily screw in. Assuming they should be flush with the pf, any insights into how best to get these in?
Scared shitless to use a drill

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#3 21 days ago

I have always found a bit just a little smaller and put in the whole and trim around the hole in slow speed and seems to work well and use wood new drill bits.
or some times to can tab but can cause a crack in clear if not careful. However, I use the first method all the time and works well. trim a little then see if it slides in and then try again until it fits nicely.

#4 21 days ago

You will need to drill. I did the same with my Funhouse new playfield.

#5 21 days ago

HEP covers it in this:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-totan-build

He has detail about each and every type of post and how he installs it.

#6 21 days ago

Go hard, Mrs Mods!

rd

#7 18 days ago
Quoted from wdpvideo:

I have always found a bit just a little smaller and put in the whole and trim around the hole in slow speed and seems to work well and use wood new drill bits.
or some times to can tab but can cause a crack in clear if not careful. However, I use the first method all the time and works well. trim a little then see if it slides in and then try again until it fits nicely.

You are the best for taking the time to share. Can I hit you up for more tips of this nature?!

#8 18 days ago

This weekend I'm going to try the drilling- still a wee bit frightened but I'm going to take the plunge. Will update my progress.

My next question is about these slingshot switches- from what I can tell from the manual, this switch on the left is the correct one however there is not a metal bracket like the one on the right. Is it possible I have the wrong switch or is there a technique for removing this bracket?

#mydumbquestions

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#9 18 days ago

Drill out the rivets and replace with new rivers or small screws/nuts

#10 18 days ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Drill out the rivets and replace with new rivers or small screws/nuts

so much drilling! i'll be a pro by the end of this (hopefully I'll also have a working game)

#11 18 days ago

Heres the proper ones ... or, as stated, you can use the brackets off your old ones.

rd

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-set-of-slingshot-switches-with-brackets.html

#12 14 days ago
Quoted from pintechev:

HEP covers it in this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-totan-build
He has detail about each and every type of post and how he installs it.

Post of the week for certain- spent a good hour reading through this post- SO helpful. thank you for mentioning it. That post technique is absolutely awesome and worked like a charm.

#13 14 days ago

Thanks to everyone helping. It allows me to sit in the corner and drink beer.

#14 14 days ago

My view.

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#15 14 days ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Thanks to everyone helping. It allows me to sit in the corner and drink beer.

This is not a revelation.

And downvoted by the Mrs!

Bruuuuutal! Lol!

rd

#16 14 days ago
Quoted from rotordave:

This is not a revelation.
And downvoted by the Mrs!
Bruuuuutal! Lol!
rd

I cant upvote on my own posts to help me out. Come on!

#17 13 days ago
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:

Post of the week for certain- spent a good hour reading through this post- SO helpful. thank you for mentioning it. That post technique is absolutely awesome and worked like a charm.

Glad to help. Good luck with the rest of the work. Great game and worth the time!

1 week later
#18 6 days ago

Was excited to make progress yesterday but had two steps forward, one back.
Two challenges- pulled out the bench buffer and don’t really know how to use it. Used an 80 grit sanding ball on the drill with these parts (showing with and without). They are noticeably better but is this as good as I should expect? Should I finish these with the buffer?

Second, I broke off a post in the playfield- no clue what to do. It’s a screw, not a through post . Any tips would be appreciated.

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#19 6 days ago

Is enough of it sticking up to get a pair of vice grips and carefully twist it out?

#20 6 days ago

You should be able to remove all marks on the ball guides unless it’s a dug in groove. The finish comes with the progressive higher grit passes.

#21 6 days ago

Yep, good start on the ball guides.

Keep going till they are nice and smooth.

Then I use a metal polishing kit in my drill press and polish them up nice and shiny.

Like this one:

https://m.harborfreight.com/14-piece-aluminum-polishing-kit-98707.html

rd

#22 6 days ago

Ok, so the consensus is to keep on rolling with the ball guides. Stay with the 80 grit then- what say you all. It is looking really great and want to continue without wrecking it.
No luck yet on the broken post- tried vice grips but can't get a bite. Tomorrow will ask our machine shop neighbors for input.

#23 6 days ago

One more question- then I'll have more photos of my 'progress so far' - its slow and steady, not like Rotor Dave is so fast- but that's ok, I'm learning.

Should these orbits be coated so they don't get that ball groove? Thought I read somewhere about that as an approach but can't remember.

#24 6 days ago
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:

One more question- then I'll have more photos of my 'progress so far' - its slow and steady, not like Rotor Dave is so fast- but that's ok, I'm learning.
Should these orbits be coated so they don't get that ball groove? Thought I read somewhere about that as an approach but can't remember.

Don't coat them. They will get ball grooves slowly and that's just fine. The ones you're cleaning now took 20 years

#25 6 days ago
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:

Ok, so the consensus is to keep on rolling with the ball guides. Stay with the 80 grit then- what say you all. It is looking really great and want to continue without wrecking it.
No luck yet on the broken post- tried vice grips but can't get a bite. Tomorrow will ask our machine shop neighbors for input.

Sorry about your broken post. Maybe high_end_pins has a good solution.

#26 6 days ago

On the post.
It looks like it is this one. image (resized).jpg

There are a couple ways to handle it

The easiest would be to drill a new pilot hole directly in front of the broken one and install the post.
In front is the best choice because it will cover or at least mask the old broken one and likely have no real impact on game play in that location.
Going behind could creat a ball trap on the target.
Trying to extract it would likely do more harm than good if you are not well practiced.

Here is a crude example of what I propose. Get as close as you can to the broken post but not so close that you would run into it with the new screw once placed. Just a sliver apart
No guarantees of course but it is what I would do in this circumstance if extraction isn’t ideal.

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#27 6 days ago
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:

not like Rotor Dave is so fast

Ive been doing it for a long time though.

My process these days - I won’t start anything unless I have 2-3 clear days. Then I smash it all out in one go. If I discover I need parts that I haven’t got (it takes 3-4 weeks for parts to come to NZ) then I’ll get it 99% as finished as I can and add the parts as soon as they come.

That’s the best advise I can give to anyone - do the whole job, start to finish in one go, while it’s all fresh in your mind. Over a weekend for example. It takes commitment, and some long days, but it’s the only way to go IMO.

rd

#28 6 days ago
Quoted from High_End_Pins:

On the post.
It looks like it is this one. [quoted image]
There are a couple ways to handle it
The easiest would be to drill a new pilot hole directly in front of the broken one and install the post.
In front is the best choice because it will cover or at least mask the old broken one and likely have no real impact on game play in that location.
Going behind could create a ball trap on the target.
Trying to extract it would likely do more harm than good if you are not well practiced.
Here is a crude example of what I propose. Get as close as you can to the broken post but not so close that you would run into it with the new screw once placed. Just a sliver apart
No guarantees of course but it is what I would do in this circumstance if extraction isn’t ideal.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, many thanks to you for the suggestion and the candor. I'm clearly not practiced enough to do a more elaborate fix- thankfully this isn't a piece where the exact placement is critical.
And a huge thanks for all you've done documenting your restorations- I've utilized several of your photos and suggestions with great success, learning the gaps in my own skill and also documentation. I'm gushing with admiration and appreciation

#29 6 days ago

Wire ball guides all installed, except for the two near the trough- they need to be replaced or reformed.
Buffed all the stainless ball guides- sounds like I'll be picking up that polishing kit rotordave. Hoping Harbor Freight has parts for using that kit on tmezel workbench buffer (I unboxed it for him today after 2 years).
Next weekend my goal will be to install all those guides- and maybe the pops. #turtle #slowandsteadywins #juniorwoodchuck

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#30 6 days ago

Suggestion: you don’t need that playfield protector. In home use, that game will stay clean and perfect.

#31 6 days ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Suggestion: you don’t need that playfield protector. In home use, that game will stay clean and perfect.

Well- this won't be an HUO (good news and bad news I suppose). We run a small arcade- 505 Pinball- and have seen our share of wear and tear on the collection. Really want to keep this one in good shape! I went back and forth given advice on both sides of the protector vs. not. Because we are going to be carrying a similar product in our webshop, I thought this would be a great test case for the product in an arcade environment.

#32 5 days ago

You’re making good forward progress! The broken post issue is super annoying. I’ve had some success with drilling small holes next to hole to get pliers in to remove. You may have to glue in some skewers or toothpicks in after, but with a new screw and maybe a washer underneath, it will be good as new.

I like the protectors. And despite even home use, some of the new playfields chip in short time. I’ve seen personally this way more than I wish.

#33 5 days ago
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:

Well- this won't be an HUO (good news and bad news I suppose). We run a small arcade- 505 Pinball- and have seen our share of wear and tear on the collection. Really want to keep this one in good shape! I went back and forth given advice on both sides of the protector vs. not. Because we are going to be carrying a similar product in our webshop, I thought this would be a great test case for the product in an arcade environment.

In that case, that makes a ton of sense. Good luck with the rest of the work - it's going to be great when completed.

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