(Topic ID: 212034)

TOTAN Lock magnet overheating

By SkillshotExhibit

6 years ago


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#1 6 years ago

Hi all,

I have a Tales of the Arabian Nights that has a Harem Lock Magnet problem. The lock is not working at all. I replaced the faulty magnet with a new magnet and it is still not working. I turned the game on, lit the locks and held the ball over the magnet and it does not grab, however if I touch the magnet with my finger, its extremely hot. Im also starting to smell a burning plastic smell. Could I have a bad transistor? Im not sure how to trace find which transistor is linked to the magnet. If im reading the manual correctly, the coil is solenoid 6 "lock magnet" on the solenoid wiring diagram, connected to J116, blue/violet.

What should I look for?

Thanks!

#2 6 years ago

High Power interlock off. Go to Tests - Magnets or Solenoids ( which ever has that magnet ) stop on that magnet. Hit Start button then keep hitting "+" diagnostic button. This steps you through name, fuse, wires, connector pins, and drive transistor.

LTG : )

#3 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

High Power interlock off. Go to Tests - Magnets or Solenoids ( which ever has that magnet ) stop on that magnet. Hit Start button then keep hitting "+" diagnostic button. This steps you through name, fuse, wires, connector pins, and drive transistor.
LTG : )

Thanks, very helpful! What pops up is “drives q66-62-51” I found and replaced transistor q66 but can’t seem to figure out what 62 and 51 refer to, they are not labeled transistors and can’t locate them in the manual, what could those numbers be?

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from SkillshotExhibit:

they are not labeled transistors and can’t locate them in the manual, what could those numbers be?

Little itty bitty transistors on the board.

LTG : )

2 weeks later
#5 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Little itty bitty transistors on the board.
LTG : )

Ok, thanks for that. I replaced the q66 transistor and the magnet started working again. It been just fine for several games and now the magnet is heating up again. The magnet works but the burning plastic smell has returned after the game is powered on for 30 minutes or so. Could these smaller transistors be the cause? Im not sure what else to look for, I have a new magnet in the game also.

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from SkillshotExhibit:

I replaced the q66 transistor

You might have shorted out that transistor again,Your dealing with 3 things here
1.The transisitor
2.pre-drive transistor(smaller transistor)Locate them on the schematics in the manual
3.The coil that runs the magnet if a coil is there to the magnet(Coil rarely goes bad unless it is fried or shorted..Probably the burning smell your talking about
is it locking on/staying activated?did you test the coil for the correct ohms? it should be 2 ohms or higher.
Its always best to replace all 3 at one time.

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from pinmike:

You might have shorted out that transistor again,Your dealing with 3 things here
1.The transisitor
2.pre-drive transistor(smaller transistor)Locate them on the schematics in the manual
3.The coil that runs the magnet if a coil is there to the magnet(Coil rarely goes bad unless it is fried or shorted..Probably the burning smell your talking about
is it locking on/staying activated?did you test the coil for the correct ohms? it should be 2 ohms or higher.
Its always best to replace all 3 at one time.

Ok, great advice. I first replaced the magnet and it did not help, next I replaced the Q66 larger transistor and then everything was working fine for several games, at least 30 to 40 games. Now the plastic smell is returning, however the magnet works just fine and is not locked on.

#8 6 years ago

Ok,Is that magnet run by a coil?

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from pinmike:

Ok,Is that magnet run by a coil?

All magnets in WPC games are run by coils. The coil is the magnet.

Quoted from SkillshotExhibit:Ok, great advice. I first replaced the magnet and it did not help, next I replaced the Q66 larger transistor and then everything was working fine for several games, at least 30 to 40 games. Now the plastic smell is returning, however the magnet works just fine and is not locked on.

If the magnet is no longer locked on then you have found the faulty component. Are you sure the plastic smell is not just lingering?

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

All magnets in WPC games are run by coils. The coil is the magnet.

If the magnet is no longer locked on then you have found the faulty component. Are you sure the plastic smell is not just lingering?

Thank you for reminding me,with all these new games i can't believe i forgot especially WPC that's my speciallty..

2 months later
#11 5 years ago

Welp, The problem was fixed and came back again. I replaced the Q-66 Transistor that is linked to the tiger magnet. The game came with a Rottendog board, it does not have any of the smaller pre-drive transistors, this was confirmed by one of the techs at Rottendog who gave me a call. I also replaced the tiger loop switch near the tiger loop magnet thinking that perhaps it was causing the magnet to stick on. So, Ive replaced the transistor and the magnet and the switch near the magnet. I do not have any blown fuses, the magnet is plugged in correctly. The problem is that the tiger lock magnet does not work at all. What should I try?

Thanks!

3 months later
#12 5 years ago

Hi all, I’m wondering if anyone has any more thoughts on this. I sent the board out for repair, has been totally fixed. I have a new magnet, checked that all of the pins are connected properly to the board and the fuses are all good. The magnet is totally dead, won’t power up. It’s listed under the solenoid test section, it cycles through each solenoid in the game, when it comes around to the ball lock coil(which is the tiger loop magnet) the display says that it’s working just fine and it’s not. I know a lot of people on pinside have complained about a warning that states the “vanish magnet is broken” I have that message coming up too but the vanish magnet works perfectly, never had a problem. After having replaced the transistors in the board, all the fuses and the magnet, I have no idea what to do next. I’d appreciate any advice!
Thanks!

#13 5 years ago

Seen vanish magnet errors if switch on subway underneith doesnt get tripped.

Ribbon cables if original can cause odd issues like this.

#14 5 years ago

Ohms with your dmm the magnet, it's above 3 ohms? Your power driver board is a rottendog ? I was thinking about an IC that controls de pre driver trnsitor and the main transistor, but if it is a rottendog I have no experience with that board.
Please check the magnet ohms, and be sure when turning the game on, if the magnet locks on.
Reset the ribbon cable from the mpu to the power driver board. Remove the ribbon cable , straight it with your hands , and you could try inverting it. I mean re connect the ribbon cable but with the red line (pin1) not in the 1st pin but in the last , (180 rotate).

1 week later
#15 5 years ago

Hi all, thanks so much, will try the ribbon cable. I tested the magnet. I bought myself a new multi meter and checked the two magnets I have. One is in the game and the other is a backup (neither work in the game). I put the meter on 200 ohms to check for continuity by checking the plug tips on both magnets and I had a reading of 0.21. I checked the winding connections on the magnet out of the game and had a reading of 0.31. So, both magnets should be functional with that reading, correct? What Should I check next? I looked for broken wires and didn't see anything kinked. I also noticed something weird. It appears that the pins on the magnet don't totally line up with the plug they match to, its always been like that on the game and the magnet was working for years before this recent problem. Is only one of the pins supposed to be plugged in?

I tested the magnet outside of the game again, with a higher reading, testing the connections inside the coil with a reading of 05.3

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#16 5 years ago
Quoted from arqpuebla:

Ohms with your dmm the magnet, it's above 3 ohms? Your power driver board is a rottendog ? I was thinking about an IC that controls de pre driver trnsitor and the main transistor, but if it is a rottendog I have no experience with that board.
Please check the magnet ohms, and be sure when turning the game on, if the magnet locks on.
Reset the ribbon cable from the mpu to the power driver board. Remove the ribbon cable , straight it with your hands , and you could try inverting it. I mean re connect the ribbon cable but with the red line (pin1) not in the 1st pin but in the last , (180 rotate).

The magnet does not activate when the game turns on, won't work during the coil test either.

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballplusMN:

Seen vanish magnet errors if switch on subway underneith doesnt get tripped.
Ribbon cables if original can cause odd issues like this.

I checked the switches attached to the vanish magnet and they are working well, still seeing the same vanish magnet warning.
Im wondering if I could have a connection problem with the CPU where the ribbon cables connect to the driver board.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from SkillshotExhibit:

I checked the switches attached to the vanish magnet and they are working well, still seeing the same vanish magnet warning.
Im wondering if I could have a connection problem with the CPU where the ribbon cables connect to the driver board.

Did you check by rolling the ball over the subway switch and see if it works?

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