So what are TOTANS going for these days? Seems like one of the best games ever made
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Quoted from Whitewater:I paid US$6,200 maybe I'm nuts ? But I do love it.
That’s seems to be a great price. If one ends up in Cali for that much I’m grabbin it
Quoted from HIPPY:I paid 5K for mine, routed, destroyed play field. Quite a project, but, worth it. Never leaving.
Yeah this machine looks like it would be worth being a project as you’d learn quite a bit. I’m doing the Data East Star Wars and there is a lot that goes into that Pin. I can only image what this one has in store, seems like the largest pinball build I’ve seen
I got some quality time on this game at The Pinball Museum. Without a doubt, the best Pin in the building. There was a non-stop line to play it. I’ll give Williams Indiana Jones second but this one is a gem for sure. Will be part of this club by next year
Quoted from JosiahCox:Finally in this club! No pictures until I get it polished up a bit. Looks like it has sat for at least 5 years or so in a garage but it appears to have been restored at some point prior.
So stoked! Been looking for this deck for a while.
Congrats! I got one in the same way. How could somebody neglect this beautiful machine?
So this brings me to this subject, why do people treat legendary machines like red headed step child’s?
So when you go out and buy a used pin, are you looking to pay more money for certain things to be good, buy a diamond in the rough and stoked you got a deal on a machine you’re gonna make mint, or are you like F’ it I just want to try this pin and maybe sell it if I don’t like it and not gonna Repair jack on it
I’m pretty confused. But everyone has a different idea of why they want a pin, so curious how you got your TOTAN and what was the final purchase decision.
I’ll tell my reason once I’ve got yours
What is a good place to get the full playfield plastic set from? Marcos is sold out and not getting it back. I believe the full set is a 31 piece
Quoted from harryhoudini:Boom.. saved ya some cash: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/77944
Awesome! Thanks, hittin them up now
Quoted from HIPPY:Pinball Decal also has hem. Clear protectors,too. I got mine there. Good stuff.
I saw the PDI set and it doesn’t look complete. Did you get the key chain pieces with the PDI set? How many pieces total?
Quoted from HIPPY:Yes, it was complete,2 large keychain pieces. I got the protectors, too. It has been a while, though.
The PDI picture doesn’t show the additional pieces, maybe I’ll email them and ask then
Quoted from harryhoudini:Any thoughts as to why my backbox would be hella hot? I just changed out the backbox lighting to LED so that is a lot less heat. Feeling the grate at the top of the backbox it's noticeably hot, like inside a PC case without a fan hot. I can't see anything that would be necessarily emitting much heat. The game was on for a few hours but was not really played much. I don't recall other WPC games being hot like this. Is this normal? Should I put in a fan?
I noticed your ceiling is low, does the other machine get hot?
Quoted from harryhoudini:None of my other machines have ever been "hot" as far as I know. I was in an odd situation (mounting the topper while the game had been on) so I wouldn't normally be at the top of the backbox like that, but I've certainly opened a backbox while the game had been on for a while and never noticed anywhere near that kind of heat. It's fairly cool in my basement, definitely not an environmental thing.
Ok, maybe I’ll fire mine up and see if it’s the same. I think it currently has bulbs so should get hot. How long does it take to get hot?
Quoted from Robertstone0407:I got twonof these unbreakable guides for the commonly broke plastic by the genie left. One purple one blue 15.00 shipped to.your door pm me. They are powdercoated steel[quoted image]
Where do these go?
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:I bought both colors, got the blue one in now.[quoted image]
Ok, thanks. That makes sense, mine is gone so probably busted
Quoted from biomonk:Hey all, I'm having a strange issue with my TOTAN. Whenever I hit the tiger loop switch and gain an extra ball, the machine immediately reboots. The tiger loop switch works fine in all other cases. It's only when I trigger it when extra ball is lit that the machine reboots. Suspecting a software error, I cleared the nvram which didn't fix it, and then upgraded the roms (machine was on 1.3, I burned and installed 1.4) but it still didn't fix it. I'm at a loss as to what to try next. Any thoughts on what might cause this? Thanks.
Did you try temp unplugging the knocker and see if it continues?
Quoted from Haggy38:Totan Magic Lamp gold Chrome treatment.
Gustavo[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Damn, that should be on a Bentley
Quoted from Haggy38:Finally, Golden Magic Lamp!![quoted image][quoted image]
So you gonna share your secret or have us all just wonder?
Quoted from Haggy38:Hahahaha, it's a water based paints, actually its very simple process, as you can see in the pictures they're different layers of paint, black, black satin, chrome and finally gold paint, the best part it's pretty cheap DIY.
Gustavo
Did you spray it with a Binks type pro sprayer or straight up Krylon?
Quoted from biomonk:No, I did not! Thank you for the suggestion, I'll try it!
I had that same issue. Seems like if the knocker isn’t working or shorted it will pop the fuse
The pic seems odd because that doesn’t look like the ramp gate. Of course it’s possible I have the wrong one installed but here’s my gate. Others can confirm
00800270-3B00-419E-8551-FF96AE8CBFDD (resized).png117F2B76-C03A-4288-9588-4814010BCE93 (resized).pngF0DF5832-2EFE-44FF-B19A-67B0D5706263 (resized).pngQuoted from Toppers:Well! I bought a TOTAN finally! Super excited. It is a major fixer upper and total ultimate player machine. However, I plan to do my first full pinball restoration on it. First order of business is get it working properly. Several things I’m missing or not working but the main thing I see is the ramp gate is completely missing. Attached are some photos of what I need. The part number is...
A-20847
I can’t find it anywhere online. Suggestions? The photo of the entire assembly is what I have missing. Any help would Be much appreciated.
Thank you![quoted image][quoted image]
It appears to be included in this setup
Anybody know where to get these hex head screws? Marcos isn’t stocking them and can’t see to find them anywhere
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4808-01175-26
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=4808-01175-24
184A25DD-2651-4E3D-A14C-46226B8ADB42 (resized).pngQuoted from Ericpinballfan:Fastenal.com pretty much has everything you will ever need in hardware. I have started to get all brass hardware topside on my Indy.
Yeah they didn’t even have it. I went to Ace and the had a self drilling version of it so I’ll just dremel the tip off
Ok, so either Marcos has these part numbers wrong or the Manual is backwards. According to Marcos, There are 2 Yellow Targets, the thin target (A-18530-6) and Thicker one (A-18017-6). But looking at the originals installed and pics on the net, these numbers in the manual appear to be reversed. For instance in the Manual (2-33), #33 calls for a Thick Yellow according to Marcos’s part number (A-18017-6) but clearly the pictures I see are of the thin target. Even the Manual calls (A-18017-6) a “Yellow Standup Mini Target” which to me would be the thin one.
So did I miss read this or does Marcos have their part numbers wrong?
F8333C51-1A09-43F1-9A3E-DD3B5C4C98FC (resized).jpeg
The effects are great, but I think I would tone the light down a little. Im a fan of TOTAN as is over most Pins as it has the right balance of light, darkness, and colors. I could see this though being much better on an Indiana Jones Williams which is too dark in general. Im gonna pick one up soon after I finish this current build
Quoted from TopMoose:Have you ever been to a pool at night, when it's completely dark out but the lights inside the pool are on and the water is still? It's an eerie, mysterious glow beneath the glassy surface. That's the same feeling looking down onto a TOTAN playfield. Pinstadiums are great in some games (might get them for my Baywatch) but I wouldn't want them in my TOTAN.
That's a very excellent description. There's something very cool about the colors in the darkness of TOTAN that is part of its mystery. I've torn apart many pins but the use of color and lights in the game give it a specific ambiance which cannot be interrupted by brightness. Its like my KISS 78. Its the one machine that will always have incandescent bulbs as any LEDs ruin its warm natural color
Has anybody picked up a CPR or other Playfield as a spare? Curious on who has done this or replaced the original
Sure its a lot of work. I'm tempted to pick up one, but maybe they will just keep producing them and holding onto one is wasted money
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Cpr for Totan.
I figured but why is MicroPlayfields more expensive then?
Are both certified Williams/Bally?
Quoted from Andypc:I purchased a Totan yesterday than came with a CPR Gold Playfield from the 2015 run. The owner had not got round to installing it. Was really disappointed when I opened it to find problems with the inserts. I have not seen this on a CPR playfield before. I got a Silver Diner playfield and the inserts are perfect, so was not expecting this to have happened to a gold playfield.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Dude, that is garbage. Id totally hit them up and send them these pics. I can imagine they want a Pinside thread showing these images without resolving this
Anybody get the CPR TOTAN backglass? Curious on how it looks lit up
https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/totan-bg/
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Ive been on the fence about CPR Totan. I have Addams and Indy and they are amazing. Its this damn light pan Im thinking just wont work good with glass. Barely works with a translight. I also have all 4 translites and switch up once or twice a year
Yeah I’m waiting for somebody else to be the test of truth. You would think CPR would post a video. It’s too expensive to risk it, so I’m fine waiting. I’ve got other problems to worry about like my next post
Ok, pretty sure this is the “row short” I’ve beem getting on the GRN-BLK Switch wire. I’m not an expert on resisters, but my senses tell me R71 is cooked which coincidentally is the Resistor for the GRN-BLK wire
Or somebody had a bad resistor painting day
3E354B62-F93D-425F-9372-870FDE7A62CE (resized).jpeg4B9F677F-AA26-4C44-8FC9-E5997D00C3CC (resized).pngQuoted from Ericpinballfan:Its the curing we are hearing about on so many new tables. When a CPR or Mirco playfield is delivered you should give it about 3-6 months rest before a swap. Storing in climate control is best, closet in house standing strait up.
Just good to not mess with gravity on inserts.
This time will also give clear coats plenty of time to harden and cure.
I thought CPR cured them before delivering? Seems risky to let a customer figure out that responsibility
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:That is correct for USA. dip 1 & 2 off, all others on. I also went and pulled the manual and double checked.
Awesome, thanks! I looked up & down the Manual, what page was it on?
Yeah there doesn’t seem to be a place in the Manual that calls out the post locations. Also the very back of the playfield has 3x post and a rubber and the manual doesn’t even mention that at all.
The kits has 2 of the double ring purple and this clear one. No idea where the go
Anybody have a full rubber & post location playfield mapping?
C5A45D1A-B2AD-44A6-AC05-EBA4F3F2DFF4 (resized).jpegQuoted from goggleloy:Just finishing the restore on Totan and was wondering if anyone has ever has any issues with a G10 error?
thanks[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from goggleloy:Just finishing the restore on Totan and was wondering if anyone has ever has any issues with a G10 error?
thanks[quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah that looks wicked
These don’t look painted though but rather heat induced colors. But I guess gog can tell us.
The heat method
https://anitachowdry.wordpress.com/2013/11/15/heat-induced-colours-on-metals/
Does anybody here have a micro playfield?
Curious what the difference is between them and CPR. They are about $100 more expensive
Quoted from Seatmandan:I'm guessing that they probably have bunched up, pooling, rippled clearcoat around the holes where the posts go
It’s not a Stern or JJP
Can somebody take a picture of the left diverted coil assembly with diverter arm position? My diverter is working but the hold seems to be sticking and I want to verify the arm is installed correctly. Thx!
Quoted from wildside:Deleted post
Well just like someone that can’t afford gold Dayton’s, you can either buy Yellow Marcos and pretend they’re gold go to Home Depot and buy a can of Krylon
The skill shot Snake plastic is very odd as you can barely see it. So the question is; does it face the metal or face away from it? I also have a pinbits and I’m not sure how you could hit the front of it if it’s tucked away behind the metal scoop, but does the Pinbit protected for in front or behind. It would seem more likely a ball behind was hit it but I don’t really see any clear pics of this
Another questions here: When you run the self test for the left orbit diverter, does the hold work on testing? It appears when I run the test, the diverter works fine on the open/close test but when I run the left diverter hold - it seems to not be working. Not sure if this is a but of something wrong with the actual diverter/coil/etc
Thanks Hippy
Ok, last question about this pin and I’m done (finally)
I found this gate wire and not sure if it was extra or it goes somewhere.
I count 2 gates installed in the game. 1 at the ramp entrance and the other upper right spiral ramp. Curious if there is a third somewhere
97918D7F-28B8-4C5A-9761-16517BA259BA (resized).jpegOk, so which flipper should the bazaar eject kick out to - the left or right? Mine is currently (and perfectly I might say) ejecting straight down the middle. While I would like to polish my slap save skills, I'm pretty sure this is a common "feature" that most would not like to have. Not sure if there is a specific setting for this coil or if I should just bend it. If so, just curious which way it the ball should be going
From the videos, it appears to be right at the upper tip of the right flipper, but not sure if this is what everyone else's kick out goes to
Ok, seems like Seatmandan gave some suggestions on this thread here. Ill try adjusting those, but does appear to be right flipper landing
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-bazaar-drains-sdtm-every-time
Quoted from HIPPY:Mine also goes to the upper tip of the right flipper.
I had the same problem from the popper multi ball. A larger rubber on the post above the bazaar fixed it.
Did you get yours fixed?
I messed with the eject scoop and that helped a bit, barely hits the right flipper when up so better than SDTM. Adjusting the coil bracket did nothing helpful.
I might tweak it later some more but really seems like something gonna break if I keep toying with it.
I did also run into the mysterious “vanish magnet broken” error which seems to have gone away now.
Other than that, was good enough to put up my first GC on it
ADF3D8EA-E0AC-40F6-B40F-B11FF3E0FAB8 (resized).jpegQuoted from TopMoose:Sometimes my ball moves too fast and the magnet doesn't catch it. In that case, the game is expecting the subway switch to close and, when it doesn't, it posts an error. It usually goes away after the next successful catch.
The error is a credit dot on post. It seems typical and reported by many as a possible bug
See this thread here. For the most part, I think mine might be switch related per Seatmandan as it went away after a couple plays, returned and then went away again. The thread shows discusses it as a permanent credit dot even thought the magnet works perfectly
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-vanishing-magnet-broken
Quoted from Jjlp:Hi everybody
Maybe someone could help me for my problem on my Totan.
When i lock the first ball, it shows the animation " first ball is lock" two Times.
It doesn't occurs when second ball is locks or when i lock the first ball using "secret ball lock".
I dont understand why the animation of the first ball lock is played twice with the two variation of it.
Thanks in advance
Yeah, check all 3 switches (ball eject switch and lock lane pair). I’ve had it act weird if any are not 100%
Quoted from Yelobird:Totan knowledge group I could use your help. Considering listing my Totan but I'm not exactly sure what I have? lol There are several components that look different from the pics I have researched. Game is in perfect condition just don't want to sell something I'm not fully knowledged in before pulling the trigger. Thanks for any input!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nice, what number is your prototype? The other ones mentioned were #6 & #21
Also, turn off the power save settings. This caused all kinds of issues on Williams in general with LEDs
Quoted from harryhoudini:I'm guessing that this is probably close enough, yea?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-6027-06
The one in the game seems to be 1-3/8 but 1-1/2 should probably be close enough.
I suppose if it was that important you could change the face or build switches: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8656-15
I feel like my switches might need replacing, lol.[quoted image]
Wow, did you pull that Genie from a sunken ship?
I save everything regardless and that will clean up somewhat, but yeah maybe a new one. I’m guess you can Frankenstein one if you really needed to
Quoted from harryhoudini:The top of the magnet post which sticks through the playfield is worn down. Apparently this is as designed since the metal is softer than the ball (to prevent ball damage) at least that is what I read. The specific part (A-18157) seems, once again, very specific to TOTAN, CV and maybe TOM or something else.
I saw in this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/part-needed-a-18157-magnet-bracket-and-pole-piece-assembly that they talked about a replacement from TZ that was adjustable. What I see in the TZ manual is part A-15257 that looks just like the TOTAN one but would assume it isn't the same size or something, otherwise why a new part number. The other item listed in TZ is A-16140 (https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=A-16460) which looks like that threaded post mount.
In another thread someone questioned if this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15257 was the same part or size as A-18157 but no one answered. This was for a CV.
I'm gonna email Marco and see if they know.
The TZ adjustable one definitely works
I filed down my original flat but would have needed to tweak it. So the TZ worked out better as you can adjust it over time
Quoted from Seatmandan:i have both new, looks like the adjustable one will work. the one i’m showing is from Dirty Harry, which is probably same as TZ[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Where did you find an original new? I’m good with the TZ as the original wasn’t in stock anywhere
Quoted from harryhoudini:Thanks seatmandan!
I believe these are the correct pieces now for the TZ adjustable magnet bracket, nut and post to replace the TOTAN part A-18157:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4428-01135-00
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16460
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4773
Yup, as mentioned I have that one installed - works great. Wondering where Seadman got the original bracket from. It appears from the pictures he has a new one
Quoted from Seatmandan:I bought it back in early 2016, when I restored my TOTAN.
I have yet to install it, as I recall I just filed down the one that came with the game and left it in there.
Ok, yeah they don’t stock the original anymore. Otherwise I’d pick up an extra. The TZ works great though so I’m good for now
Quoted from JIMAKOST:Hello all I have made the sword topper with pcb board ,my design for everyone who will attempt to remake.
I have used cat5 cable that unfortunately it was white so I had to put the entire cable in heat shrink so it can blend with the inside color of the back box.
Also made a support bracket from a piece of lexan I had laying around.
Total cost is 25$
Enjoy
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Wow, what a effort. Congrats on that. Man id have to be doing some serious meth to attempt that
Quoted from JIMAKOST:What about if I told you I remade the entire game !!
I’d say you must hang out with this guy
B37310D5-6AC5-4C6E-B303-9C8A47D04A26 (resized).jpegQuoted from Phantasize:Hello everyone
I have a question regarding a TOTAN i currently have on loan from a buddy, in exchange for fixing a couple of issues with it.
I have it fully working now, but one thing bothers me about it:
Whenever the long left diverter under the ramp is pulled and in hold mode, there is a loud hum or "rattle sound". Placing my fingers/hand on the diverter itself above the playfield doesn't change anything. So i am pretty sure the noise is coming from the mechanism under the playfield. Unfortunately i can't get under the playfield to check it out, while still triggering it above the playfield. And the short bursts in test mode doesn't produce the sound.
As far as i can tell, the assembly is nice and tight everywhere, with no loose screws or anything.
Has anyone experienced this, and know of a fix or where to start?
Thanks. Great machine btw. Wish i owned one myself...
Mine does that. Not sure if its normal per se, but its the coil holding. Sounds like a bathroom fan
Quoted from Seatmandan:Rebuild the assembly to tighten up all the looseness (rattling) and turn up the game volume to muffle the humming sound. TOTAN has GREAT sound.
Yeah good point. If you can hear the hum, your TOTAN isn’t at 11
Ok, so I see CPR & Mirco have TOTAN Playfields. And it also appears CPR is going digital now.
So a couple questions regarding this.
Are Micro and CPR current in stock offering a screen printed or digital printed playfield.
Is Screen or Digital “better”. What are the pros & cons
Does anybody here own either one? How is it holding up?
From what I’m hearing, both are good and sometimes people might get a bad one in which both companies honored and replaced.
Quoted from 2pupPinz:No it shouldn’t be lit all the time. Maybe check the socket
I stand corrected, you are correct sir!
Once I did a lot of tracing, and looked at the links Houdini sent, I started checking the diodes and removed the bulbs. I tried a new socket and diode, but when I compared it to the special Outlane sockets, there it was. Somebody mixed up the top & middle connectors. Once I reversed it, boom. Back in action.
It’s amazing how much havoc a single socket can cause. Bet it was sending power issues all over.
Thanks guys
Couple things I discovered being still a noob and I’m sure you know. Didn’t know there was a Superskill shot. Saw the snake come up twice with a higher score and didn’t know.
Also, is it just me, but I certain modes you can move the direction of the ball while it’s on the magnet - was I imagining this. It either followed my flippers left & right or I’m on krak like J-Pop
I did notice the Genie in between the flippers was still lit after defeating him. Not sure what that represents.
And I hit special lit (never seen in lit) in the Outlane and it kraked a game.
That was all I can think of. What a simple but very tricky game with lots of little tricks. It’s definitely never leaving. Gonna get a new PF and hold it until this one gets tattered just to be sure I can play it till the end
Quoted from harryhoudini:Sounds awesome. I've got the princess but that's it. I'm around 26 million. Just fixed a few switches and replaced a few rubbers, I'm sure I'll be better now
Oh and which screen is that? If any game needs it TOTAN does. I like the look of yours, I'll get whatever that is. I'm hoping it's not one of those full monitor ones but it looks like it, no biggie I just thought those installs were weird.
Question for anyone: Why would I get an error report of the ramp magnet and the vanish magnet broken? They both work fine, I've cleared all other errors and tested all switches and they seem to work fine.
I do get another oddity which could be related. I think what causes this is shooting the left loop or something on that side of the game. I can hear a magnet/coil engage that isn't related, I don't think. It sounds like the vanish magnet is energized but it doesn't drop. I'm going to try to pay more attention. I think it also coincides with the message you get when a ball drains that should have been saved by the cage. She says something about pardon me, saved your ball kind of thing. Meanwhile I have no ball near the trough or the rollovers.
I think if I can figure out the magnet broken messages it might lead to this other one or be part of the same issue. I don't know what the game uses to determine a magnet is bad.
So regarding the screen, I’m assuming you mean the DMD, it’s a ColorDMD but the original LCD and not the new version. The new version is a little more crisp though, this one came with it so it’s good enough.
Regarding the magnet error, there’s a long discussion about it on this thread (can’t remember what post), might be bookmarked. It’s a bug but I believe it’s related to a switch (I believe the lock ball switches, but don’t quote me). I had that problem for a minute and cleaned all my switches and it hasn’t returned.
Quoted from Yelobird:I am Totally reaching here as it happened a long time ago but I think I had the same magnet error and the issue was that the large magnet drum somehow rotated? Would not grab or properly release. Only in test would it work. Again totally can’t recall but mine had to do with that mech rotating.[quoted image]
Nice prototype
Quoted from Seatmandan:Huh? I have 2 older ones and a new one and they all look exactly the same. not sure what your comment refers to
There’s a version 1 and version 2 of ColorDMD LCD. There is also an LED version as well. I only found out there was a version 1 when I went to update the firmware and there was 2 different versions for TOTAN based on which ColorDMD. They do look the same but they’re definitely not. If you update the firmware you’ll see
As far as difference in display, the newer ones are definitely much sharper. I do DOTXL but even with that you can tell the difference
Check out this link, it break it down to older vs newer controller boards
Quoted from Seatmandan:When they (old LCD v.s. new) are both set to standard there is zero difference IMO. The reason the newer ones look better is because of DotXL setting.
You said the new one looks "sharper" which I don't agree with. they look exactly the same. Only difference being the looks of the chassis and the firmware.
As far as the LED display goes, there's definitely a difference there.
My point is, nobody should be discouraged from buying a game with the gen.1 ColorDMD. They are great just like the newer one
Actually not true. DotXL is available on both. The new boards generate the graphics faster and coloring is different.
You can read the detail here
https://www.colordmd.com/chromainfo.html
I do agree with you though, don’t be discouraged using the older ones as the difference is barely noticeable (if at all for some). I can definitely tell though as subtle as it may be. But more to your point Seatmandan I’m not running out and replacing it. I just wanted to reference it’s the older controller because somebody asked about getting one and it’s discontinued. Not sure how you’d get it anyway.
Quoted from Seatmandan:Nothing.
What I did was put an intentional slant to the RH side (Bazaar side) to cause the ball to either contact a spinning genie lamp post, or drive towards the RH flipper slightly. Only thing that works.
So is it true/not true that when the ball is in the Genie magnet you can move the direction on the magnets with the left & right flippers? I could swear this was the case on mine. It’s definitely the case on the digital PBA. The ball will swing left and right when you tap the flippers
Can you guys confirm or deny this in the IRL?
Quoted from noitbe1:What’s possible is pressing the flipper change the pulse pattern and make the ball swing. The magnet however is pretty basic. This behavior could be seen on RM head on the CV.
That’s what I thought, so that in itself would prevent consistent SDTM’s
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