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Quoted from Green-Machine:Fuses are good. Only thing I found was one of my flasher sockets was busted. This caused the problem?
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Problem solved!
Quoted from Markharris2000:I have an extra fully hand painted and clearcoated Genie I'd be willing to sell if someone wants it. I made two since I was in the mood to be crafty. I installed one on my TOTAN, and the other just sits... If someone has a real interest, let me know.
See it below or here (with some detail on what I did): https://ibb.co/pzkKD8d
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That looks great Mark!
Quoted from Green-Machine:That looks great Mark!
Can we see a picture of your TOTAN?
Quoted from toddsolus:It would be nice If you could contribute to the forum by describing your experience and how you solved it.
I have just purchased my TOTAN In all the excitement of buying a new pen I did not notice that the flashers were not working.
The next day after I got at home I started tearing into it. I had plans on shopping it out and replacing plastics and apron. That’s when I noticed the flashers weren’t working.
With a little help from friends here on Pinside to help direct me for troubleshooting issues with lighting. I began the process. The fuses checked out good and all the solder joints looked good as well.
I decided to look through schematics and start tracing through everything. I found that a ribbon cable plugs into J101. Found it just slightly pulled out of the connection on one side. I pushed it in completely and Presto.
Quoted from Tranquilize:After moving a game, it's always a good idea to press or reseat all plugs on the boards. I do this every time to save similar headaches.
Now kick the shit out of that Genie and smooch your princess!
Yes, I should know this. Thanks! Ha Ha I’ll do that
Quoted from Markharris2000:I am in the process of swapping ALL three of the clear ramps on my machine, but will post pictures as soon as the operation is done... Swapping ramps is not for the faint of heart, and I have been taking pictures and writing down every screw and spacer in hopes of being able to put it back together without issues.
Good to know! I’m thinking of getting a new swirl ramp because my flap is wrecked and I cannot find a new one anywhere
Quoted from Initiative:oooooh mystery switch hole. i dont have one of those.
Early run I suppose!?!?
Quoted from Chooga:Team TOTAN, I’m looking to purchase a very clean TOTAN for my home (will be my very first TOTAN). Please let me know if any leads. Appreciate it much! Jason
As long as you don’t live on this corner
13BA8452-9A70-426A-80FD-65A548107E89 (resized).jpegQuoted from pintechev:On top of the ramp diverter coil assembly.
I thought this one goes on the diverter assembly
image (resized).jpgQuoted from pintechev:Thou shall not dispense advice from bed directly after waking up. So sorry - yes, that is correct.
As for the part in question - not immediately sure. Will have to look.
Thank you. I recently purchased a new set of plastic but the plastic in question wasn’t on my machine
Quoted from marioparty34:You are right. Curious I don't see your piece on my playfield yet it shows up as part of the plastic set on multiple sites. Need to do some more research.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Key fob, 100%.
Quoted from thechakapakuni:Hi Green, that’s and extra piece. Even though it has 2 drill holes it’s definitely extra. I have the same extra when I bought the full set. There’s also 2 key fobs. Other than it might have been a part discontinued or prototype that gets printed with the full set, not sure. Maybe J-Pop knows (or sleuth a prototype). Data East Star Wars had a couple mystery plastics that got printed but go nowhere
On the other hand you can use it 2 hold 2 keys if you put key rings on it. Otherwise maybe a large earring or medallion?
Thanks guys, I appreciate it!!! It was driving me nuts
Quoted from Markharris2000:I suspect there was a prototype update that changed the dagger shaped piece to a full circle. Both versions kept the dagger graphic, but the circle covers the diverter mechanism better. So... it’s now a key fob, or a extra part to do with as you like.
The hole alignment is different than the diverter plastic too so something has changed.
Quoted from thechakapakuni:Hi Green, that’s and extra piece. Even though it has 2 drill holes it’s definitely extra. I have the same extra when I bought the full set. There’s also 2 key fobs. Other than it might have been a part discontinued or prototype that gets printed with the full set, not sure. Maybe J-Pop knows (or sleuth a prototype). Data East Star Wars had a couple mystery plastics that got printed but go nowhere
On the other hand you can use it 2 hold 2 keys if you put key rings on it. Otherwise maybe a large earring or medallion?
Love your chaka avatar! Brings back some old memories
Quoted from Energyspike:The left orbit diverter should keep the ball on the inner (tiger) loop, the magnet should grab the ball and release the ball to saucer / hole for the lock.
The popup post in the upper right corner was not working when I first got the pin a month ago. Fixed the broken wire and the "Roc" mode now completes since the ball is pushed to the bumpers, then the final ramp shot. If you post is working, I do not have any suggests currently.
Do you know, off the top of your head where the pop up post is in test. If not I’ll be home in a few hours to figure it out. Just curious as I haven’t checked to see if mine is working. I just finished shopping mine out and haven’t had much gameplay on it.
Quoted from Markharris2000:I think it's Solenoid #36, "Loop Post Diverter" is the most common name in the manual. Look on pages 2-40 & 2-41 in manual.
Thank you!
Quoted from Markharris2000:Had a weird problem show up on my TOTAN machine last week when I swapped the Bazaar Scoop, and wondered if anyone else has run into this. I got a new scoop from LittleShop in Florida since my original scoop had some weld issues. When I re-assembled the scoop and the kicker, everything fits together fine. BUT, the ball now comes out of the scoop and back onto the playfield at a severe angle, always the same direction angle, far to the left and in fact some times falls into the far LEFT outlane. I am pretty sure it used to come out straight, basically towards the right flipper bat.
The new scoop looks just like the old scoop with a bit stronger welds, etc. I don't see any blockages inside the scoop. I am really scratching my head on this one. Anyone have thoughts on where to look?
My guess is there’s a slight bend in the body of the scoop Maybe not even noticeable to the eye but it’s changing the trajectory of the pinball. Just a guess but plausible I think.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:I have the mirror blades in the Box waiting.
How difficult where they get installed?
Thanks
Actually easier than I anticipated. I removed the protective covering from mirror blade and added double sided tape removed hinge bolt one at a time. Slid blade in trying to avoid tape from sticking but wasn’t fully successful. It came loose fairly easily. I lined it up with hinge bolt hole and put bolt back on and aligned blade straight across the top of cab and pressed tape tight. Then added One screw to the front of blade and called it a day.
Quoted from Markharris2000:Looks nice... I see you also swapped the genie lamp base to the purple version. I like the purple and it seems to match a few of the other purple features (like the outhole just to its left). About the only thing left for you to do is the ColorDMD upgrade, but even without it, sweet...
Thank you! Yes colorDMD is on my wish list
I got crickets when I started my TOTAN today. Just backbox lights and speakers hiss. That’s it, nothing else! Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m mechanically inclined with repair knowledge. This is a problem I’ve never encountered and would love to know the path I should start at for troubleshooting
Thanks in advice
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:Check every fuse first.
Sometimes just turning these games on will blow a fuse.
Thanks I’ll check after I’m back home from work.
I reseated the power supply to the MPU and is working fully now. More investigation is needed to see if and where power is being depleted.
Quoted from Methos:Thanks. I'll try and wait on ebay for a bit. Does Pinball Center ship to the US?
I have new cobra plastic if that is what you need
Quoted from pacman11:What am I missing here? Just a plastic post?
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Yes! Right next to the genies arm in this pic
Quoted from pacman11:Yeah I’ve used screws in the past to reattach the plastics. Thanks for the heads up on that though.
I drilled through the center of the back of the original rivet just deep enough to pop it loose. Then re-assembled it on the new plastic with a dab of superglue. Works like a charm and is original to the look. Have done this on two TZ in the past as well.
Quoted from pacman11:Aright putting this top ramp back on after waiting a week to get parts. Is the left ramp suppose to be lower then the right loop? See picture I am pointing at it.. Thanks!
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Roll the ball down it and see if it works
Quoted from pacman11:I think I’ve got it.. ♂️
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You got it!
8CDA28FD-35C5-4519-8F02-42D9E60857F7 (resized).jpegQuoted from pacman11:I think I’ve got it.. ♂️
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It’s coming along quite nicely!
Quoted from pacman11:Does anyone have a custom Genie that they painted they could share with me to give me some ideas. Thanks!
Here is mine that I painted
958E3894-111B-4A33-BF2F-97F1331BAD45 (resized).jpegQuoted from Markharris2000:It was a factory add-on early in production. Good thing you have it and quite easy to install. I am attaching a picture
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Is that modern day stern glass on your TOTAN
Quoted from Markharris2000:It is! My machine glass had 30 years of scratches on it. Found someone locally that swapped a few of their new machine's glass to HD glass, so gave me a sheet a few months ago. Makes a BIG difference!!!!!
Yes, I ordered new glass as soon as I bought mine...like yours it needed replaced
Quoted from pacman11:Ramp spacers? What are you talking about? I played it last night and got it stuck twice within an hour.
I think he’s trying to help you. Ramp spacers are the little plastic sleeves that go over the screws that hold your ramp in place if they’re not correctly put into order or size your ramps downhill grade could change causing your ball to get stuck.
Quoted from Green-Machine:I think he’s trying to help you. Ramp spacers are the little plastic sleeves that go over the screws that hold your ramp in place if they’re not correctly put into order or size your ramps downhill grade could change causing your ball to get stuck. He doesn’t see your game so of course it’s a theory so that’s why He asked I’m assuming
Officially leaving the club on Saturday..... sad to go but was ready for a new pin to tinker with
Quoted from thechakapakuni:Is the Main drop magnet level with the playfield?
Will and Holly concur!
Quoted from thechakapakuni:What about Marshall?
I guess in my head when I think of Chaka I always hear him saying “Will and Holly” in his prehistoric accent
Quoted from Pinkitten:Can anyone confirm for me if all the bulbs are 13v under the spinning lamp? I read the manual and still can’t tell for sure. I think they are.
Thanks!
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Super easy to change those bulbs without disassembling
Quoted from Markharris2000:My fingers must be too big.... that said, you’d be shocked how much oil residue has accumulated on the underside of the spinning disk!
Lol
Quoted from mollyspub:This was by no means any disrespect to you ( as you have helped me with my pinball needs) or the pinball god (HEP). Every game will need maintenance or tweeks of some kind. Just surprised that this level of game would need anything so soon. Both of you guys are way more skilled than me in the hobby!
I have NIB just out of the box pins with issues
Quoted from Soulrider911:Thanks everyone so as I kinda suspected, it was just some tweaking that was required. It Would appear that on my game the angle of the coil and the geometry thereabouts is a bit off. The result was the plunger binding inside of the coil and not moving freely.
After inspecting it quite a bit I noticed that when it moves smoothly the back coil bracket mount needed to be raised up a few millimeters so I 3-D printed a shim and now it works flawlessly
This is the angle the coil needed to be at to move freely
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Quick model of a shim
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Shim installed and Now working perfectly smooth
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Nice job!
Quoted from BrianZ:I joined Dec 18th. Working on a sh0p job + a bit more. Quick question. Left of the Pop Bumpers, rubbers and 2 bulbs. The rubbers are 2.5 inch i believe.
This does not look right, due to flex in the rubbers, the ball eventually hits and bend/breaks the bulbs. I want to keep the illumination incandescent, but its clear the bulbs will break over time (for the time being put a few leds). Is this correct, or am i missing something. If this is correct, its one hell of a bad design.
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Mark’s ring size and the doubling up of them works great
Quoted from BrianZ:Thanks. I already put a slighly smaller ring, and will leave the plastic leds in (this spot only).
Anyone have the right in lane plastic, and the plastic that reaches around the genie? I need just these two, and dont want to buy a complete set.
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I might have the right in lane plastic. I’ll look when I get home along with the TZ plastics I was suppose to look for LOL
Quoted from pacman11:So I was playing my TOTAN tonight and the ball fell off the ramp because it didn’t have enough power to make the fireball magnet and it fell behind the Genie and got stuck. Is there a plastic behind the Genie or something I am missing?
There is supposed to to be a plastic behind the Genie. It often breaks off of the front part of the plastic.
86499A91-D572-4B42-BB86-BD5C01CCD96F (resized).jpegQuoted from Soulrider911:Thanks markharris2000 good points. I have an airbrush, primers, paints you name it. I use to paint miniatures quite a bit. I'm torn on the waist part. I was actually thinking a desaturated red. For clear I think I am going to to a matte, instead of a gloss.
To be honest I am still confused if that is supposed to be smoke ( like he is coming out of the bottle) or a waist wrap ??? If you look at the cabinet art... its smoke...
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Thoughts?
This would be a wrap:
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I think it’s smoke. I experimented with this too. This is my final thing I painted.
229B7A38-F957-4EC1-B222-9C94F05E1915 (resized).jpegQuoted from Soulrider911:Nailed it! green-machine. Did you repaint the whole genie or just areas and then clear it?
Love the name @soulrider911. Thanks! I sent you a text
Quoted from Markharris2000:But look how nice it looks with some 'flair'!!!! LOL...
(Gold trim, Metallic blues, gloss clears)
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The Rick Flair of genies! That blue would look good on my 70’ Cuda
Quoted from Markharris2000:Making those genies has become a personal adventure... I had 4-5 on my machine over the years. And I have passed some of those on to other TOTAN owners as I made a new one.
That said, I now own nearly every shade of blue spray, from classic genie blue to every flavor of lagoon and classic blue. I have metallic shimmer clear coats, and several shades of gold and silver accent paint. In the process, I found something called "Adhesion Promoter" which if you have never tried it, do! It allows nearly any surface to be painted and stick.
The genie itself, which on a fresh machine is aladdin blue like in the movies. Light but full bodied blue. This bright light blue dulls and gets a green/grey tint on a heavily routed machine. After I degrease older genies, and apply adhesion promoter, I start with a base aladdin blue and then add depth using other shades. I find the genies look best when I mix a couple of the shades of blue carefully. Looks richer...
Now that I don't have the machine any longer, I think my artistry might be drawing to a close...
There are plenty more toys on plenty more pins don’t hang up your palette quite yet
Quoted from Soulrider911:Started a little paint on the genie and modeled him a fireball that will be lit from the back.[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Few more touch ups. Dry brushed his hair with silver, painted the veins a very subtle blue, and finally 7 layers of clear! Came out pretty decent
Thanks for the inspiration markharris2000 and green-machine
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Man! That looks great. The hair looks cool that way! Nice job Brady
Quoted from Soulrider911:Today’s project operation diy topper, sneak peek
3D printing some detail bits for it
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Toy sword with holes drilled for the Gems
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Yeah... this guy has some talent!
Quoted from EStroh:I decided to take a swing at making a fireball. I wanted mine to look more "ball shaped" (like a small sun).
Here's my first pass at it...
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Nice job!
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Just wanted to know what was under that Bazaar Cliffy. Looks like just a very small bit of chipping of the clear coat on the edge. I'll take It!
Your scoop is missing…..
Quoted from DeeGor:Just finished up my TOTAN restore.
My original intent was to get the armor brass plated, but Chris @ pinballplating.com was out of most items, so I grabbed what I could and opted to go the powder coating route instead. Most gold / brass powder coat looks nothing like brass plating, so I went with a color called Grecian Gold Vein. It looks similar to the
Looks great! Nice job
Quoted from Hougie:This has probably been well document but I don't hate how my lamp turned out with this paint. I just need to give it a darker aged look. I may go around the recessed spots with something darker and wipe off the excess. What do you guys think?
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Wiping an acrylic dark brown on and wiping most of it off leaving dark residuals in the crevices will definitely antique it. Maybe put a clear coat on after to seal the deal
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Quoted from thechakapakuni:Looks good to me. Maybe a clear coat?
I think it looks fine too.
Quoted from Ecw0930:Did a quick search and can't find anything. But I'm new to this forum and don't know who to go to so I'll post it here.
I was replacing bulbs and put the game back together. First game the genie doesn't work. Nothing about the genie works. Some of the stand up targets also don't work, and the right ramp entry. They are all on the same column of switches. But some of that column's switches DO work.
Anyone ever experience a lame Genie? I can't even tell how it works. There is nothing under the PF and I can't get to him without removing ramps. I would like to know what I'm looking for and at before I go tearing it apart. Is it optos that make him register when he gets hit? It looks like it's a giant leaf switch that hits the metal bracket. But I've never seen anything like it.
I can't find any loose/broken wires and a reseated the one plug that seems to go directly to the Genie.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
Maybe try Googling it adding the word pinside to your search. I’ve found that it works much better than using the pinside search option. Hope this helps!
Quoted from Ecw0930:Man I was looking into gold side blades. Would be perfect! But man... $300! Sheesh. I think that is much too rich for my blood.
Real gold!?
Quoted from Ecw0930:Some pics of the tear down. Astonished what good shape it's in. Not even ball trails on there. Nice to get into area and clean maybe for the first time ever and give it some wax and love. Actually got the entire ramp system off. Nervous about putting everything back together correctly.
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Playfield looks nice
Quoted from Ecw0930:Did your Genie just get out of the shower?
I think I got the scoop to be 99.9% good. Hits the tip of the right flipper now.
Lol yeah squeaky clean now
Quoted from MadMaxDad:I found some more TOTAN stuff !
Small Cliffy Set - not sure what those are going for - make offer
Unopened Goodie Bag - $30 shipped
Ball Guide Assembly / plastic stack - one broken piece (the tip of the purple piece -- make offer
Ball Guide Assembly Left and Right NOS - still in the bags - Planetary might have the left set for $25, can't find the right side. I want to sell as a pair
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Nice!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Hey friends I just realized I have one of these left. Normally 125 shipped, 105 takes it. PM me if your interested. It is "intereactive" his leg hangs in the ball lane so it moves when the ball bumps his leg, kinda fun.[quoted image][quoted image]
Wow, Brady! You make some really cool stuff! How can I see what mods you are working on? Love to give you my money
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Just went through a complete teardown of a newly bought totan and now when finished the ball launch is wonky. When I launch the ball it doesn't balance on the middle plastic but almost fall down to the right, loosing lots of power while traveling upwards the skillshot and I can't get further than the first switch.
I only played a ball or two after buying it and I'm not 100% sure but I think it wasn't like this before teardown.
The ball shooter spring is the correct one.
It feels like I need to have the right metal scimitar "wall" more to the left and probably need to bend the metal a bit to get that. Would love to see how other people's launch area look like before doing anything though.
This is mine. As you can see the gap on the right is larger than to the left. The middle plastic fits correctly into the groove in the metal assembly up top.
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Edit: looking at other people's pictures I found it seem many have the same larger gap on the right side just as me. Is the ball supposed to roll on the middle plastic while leaning against the left plastic when going up? If so, my problem might be with my shooter rod not hitting straight on the middle of the ball. My rubber tip hits the ball more on its right side.
Yes probably the shooter rod needing alignment. Yours looks the same as mine in the lane
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Quoted from PhillyArcade:Brian Allen (FlyLand Designs) inside cabinet art installed today. Really ties in the playfield nice. Of course now you guys hexed my machine the balls are not launching as good!
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Looks great
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:My skillshot assembly is directly against the inside of the cabinet. I've bought Flylands sideart and want to add it but I'm afraid it will be scratched immediately.
Thinking of adding one thin strip of fabric to the assemblys outer side using glue, anyone done something similar?
I've tried to remove the assembly and mount it back while pressing it away from the cab while tightening the screws to the hex posts below but it didn't help. Is it supposed to sit this close against the cabinet or do you have a few millimeters of air between?
The two larger hex posts below were actually not straight 90 degrees up for me so I've mounted them leaning slightly inwards but the assembly itself still rests against the cabinet.
You could buy these
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