Congrats on Your TOTAN!

I want that shooter rod! How can I purchase a light up shooter rod for mine? I'm also looking for the LED light up eyes Cobra.
I have had mine for about 2 months. I just got the updated 1.4 roms, mine currently has the 0.4. Is there anything I should look out for in changing these out, other than bending and destroying the circuit boards? I was also very lucky to receive the Sword topper and magic lamp from my wife for Christmas, and my mom was very generious to buy me the COLOR DMD. I know I should do the roms before Color DMD. Any other hints so I don't destroy my $7500 TOTAN?
Happy New Year Pinsiders and Thanks for everyone's Help this year. Thank you pinside for being here!!

Question TOTAN owners. I can't get my princess in bottle to light up in front of genie. It appears to be a flasher and I do not see it in the tests programs under flashers, underplayfield it is under the subway ramp. Any ideas? Thanks for the help. ERIC

Thanks SEATMANDAN!! I have the interlock yellow metal piece. Thought I did that, but may have not, will try again. So indeed she is a flasher unit. But I don't see that princess flasher in flasher tests. Which one would she be under in that flasher test mode? Can't find her in tests or manual.
Kind Regards,
Eric

What angle is everyone playing at?? How high are everyone's back leg levelers? I'm tired of the ball going through gap between spiral ramp and left ramp behind Genie. Gets stuck behind genie maybe 1-20 drops. Frustrating flaw on this game, heard this is common from another owner once. Am I the only one this is happening to?
Ideas, suggestions, comments....Please chime in- Eric

Still having issues. Need to find time to analyze the thread mentioned above and maybe tear ramps out and get this right. I did not shop the game, came this way.

It looks great! Couple questions. How long and how many hours do you estimate you put into it? And how did the decals go, easy, hard....? And of course how did hex posts and ramp reinstall go for you. This info helps us all, Thanks.
Eric

Amendes, I purchased metal guide for shooter lane from that guy on eBay. It looks great...but...now the ball wear on sword on right side bothers me. Thinking of removing both and having them plated shiny brass! But, game would be down for couple weeks while it's done. I'm going away this summer for a few weeks. I will remove and have that done while I'm gone.
My other thoughts, was there a version of this pin that came golded out? Seen several now, is that an upgrade collectors do? Or was there a limited run factory made? Old question I'd love to figure out?
Thanks to anyone who knows.
Eric

No..but that sounds like your DMD board may have zapped it at start up, thats when it would have happened. How's that other board first is the question, try replacing dmd cable to. Then you will know if it's the dmd. Just my thoughts, no expert here on this one. My other thought, is what year did you purchase DMD, ie batch. You could easilly contact Randy or Chris at COLOR DMD, they could guide you as well.

The wear was already there on the sword. It's an alignment issue, it's kind of infinit. I played my friends and his plastic guide on left was a little ascew, compared to mine, to the left. I noticed a lot less ball wear, or track mark on sword on right. When you put this in, Metal sword MOD will call it, you can play with that, albeit minor, but minor enough to make a difference. I have also seen these 2 pieces on a third machine pinch the ball at top, needed to use more of shooter rod spring to compensate.
This pin has a few alignment issues, shooter lane, ramps, the post at top for sinbad and rocks needed fixing when I got this machine. Getting this thing dialed in finally. I'll get some pics and post soon. I also came up with a fix for that damn ball getting stuck behind Genie on soft shots too. It's been working for a few weeks, damn hope I didnt jinx it.

Ninja.. Wow....I'll take it, and a fish. Now Gilligan's Island please.

All right, just when I get my ramps and pitch dialed in, now the ramp diverted on spiral ramp isn't working during game play and getting an error code. But, it works in test mode.
Any ideas, am I missing activation of a switch to make it work?
Suggestions, comments?
Thanks in advance.

It indeed says ramp diverter broken on test mode after power up. But works during coil tests. What switch activates it? Entrance to spiral ramp?
Thanks

I did check that one. Works fine in coil test, repeatedly. At power up error code is
" ramp diverter broken"
Thanks Eric

I will check that in switch edges tonight, and do dry run with glass off. Every once in awhile I get genie magnet error code, but once I hit multi ball and it vanishes credit dot for goes away.

Mollyspub-----You can't do that to us. Where did you get tbat? Is this Alternate available?
I'll take one now please. E.

Alex, I like it! Different is good. Nice to customize any machine.

Can you post a picture of your problem?Sounds crazy, but I never liked the color of the skill shot assembly piece. You could take it off and have it welded. Then RE-plate it to color you like, or shiny brass rather than dull look.

I have to ask. How flat is your table, on easy setting? Had mine almost a year and only battles genie twice, didn't rescue princess. Sounds like your leg levelers are not placing bubble a 6 degrees. This pin is harder than that, no one should battle genie in there first couple games. Something doesn't sound right.

Pinball life sells the sockets for wpc 95 tube lights. The yellow are GI, the black are flashers. In manual should be the layout for pattern. The trick is building the harness to power driver board.

My divertor says it's broken, works in test.
The wire leaf on switch isn't making contact at entrance to swirl ramp.
Thinking of just bending it strait again. Hope that works.

My diverter fixed last night. Thought I'd share more info.
The switch at swirl ramp entrance had rolled up after getting loose. There for the wire was swinging in space. Rolled switch back down, tighten it. Gave game a few plays, easy fix. Credit dot went away playing once it had activated a few times.
Then after another game the upper ball lock switch showing credit dot. I can't win some days.

No one posted picture yet? Going now, will send pic in a few minutes.

Reminded me how much I hate the light tub on Wpc 95.

IMAG3775 (resized).jpg

It does. Playing mine right now. Took a break, tonight is my Friday.
Tell you why, it's power flow. My molex is patched, I'll catch flak for this. Been on my list. You want them correct. I always go by schematics in manual.
Manual is law for this pin.

looks like a flipper football or 6803 with single bulb.

It's just a key fob. Mines dangling off key right now.

I just looked at mine.k
I dont have that switch either. Blank hole.
Hmmmm...??
Someone has to know the answer here?
Thanks

I'd post a pic, but it is the exact same picture #2 above.
No switch in my hole. I know I have an early production Totan, say first 1000 machines.

The slot thickens, i mean plot.
That empty switch slot had to do something in prototype. Factory left it because playfields were probably already made.
Love to know what it did? Underside dimpled for a switch ready to go.

I think the easy answer to it not being in later models is simple.
There was something there in the design process, whitewood.
Then, by the time it went into production the slot was dead.
Playfields by that starting assembly line process had already been made, probably half or more. To late to fill hole, which they wouldnt do anyway. When second batch of playfields ordered they fixed that hole and made it solid, saving 3 steps.
The real question, what did it do in prototype?

Who sent it to you? I cry bullshit.
That is a warped and leaning , should stand strait up!

Id call him again. Maybe send picture. They always sell quality stuff. Hes the only guy selling this so i wanted to ask first. Figured its were you purchased it.
Thinking.....maybe just maybe this box package was placed in warm spot in truck or something prior to delivery. Exposed to some extrem heat. That's heat damage, warped from something melting it. In fact, the lean i see might make this wobble in place during game play and never spin correctly.

Mine is original, and perfectly symetricle.

Purple and Blue would be great Rick!

Are ypu running the lamps too?

Rick, thanks for quick response. Placing order today!
Any news on Black Rose cannon shell set, and Diner coffee cup?

For a crazy TOTAN owner like myself, ill have to order one of each.

Yes...good luck.

8k, little more reasonable.
But, I can buy a brand new Hobbit for that much. With so many titles being made now prices have been falling a bit. Even HEP restorations aren't holding there value. Only so many collector's with deep pockets.

You asked for opinion.

I got some purple on me looking at pics.
Machine looks great thou.

I have the snake. NO idea where i got it.
I like the lion and the mirror blades.
Maybe ill add those.

Congrats!! Took me several years to trade up till I had one to.
Makes me wonder about my build date and serial #, will look tonight.

I show it working, ordered a few things yesterday. Got emails and confirmation.
Im also in ca.
Pam at pinbits is awesome, done some really nice things for me over the years.

What do you notice as a visible difference?

Disclaimer...
Just because i have something different, doesnt make it right.
1st, what is up with the pop caps. Usually on this game there purple. Doesnt mean thats right, it is the factory color. Ive seen clear with color changing, looks great. I have purple. But considered the change up.
My game was completly gone thru about 18 mo ago. I made a point to match factory bands and size.
I see 2 white bands by that pop bumper, i only have one rubber in that area. Lose the bottom band, i have only the upper on that area. Looking at my posts holding bands, i only see one inset in post to hold one, that lower band doesnt have the inset in post.
Does that make sense?

Interesting, my posts are metal there, not purple plastic.

PPS Apron has been out for at least a year. Got mine 10 mo plus ago.

Where can you buy this genie fireball mod?

Ive seen a few blue Genies with tattoo's.
I want to pull mine off and get him inked up.
Tribal bands on bicep, fee other ideas.
What has everyone else come up with?

Ebay, $92 bucks.

See post #871 above.
Ive seen them pop up on this thread the past year from time to time. Id have to search last 10 pages.

Love to see those posts in purple, ill email him to.

I know , im screwed to.
Ill have to contact him and order fireball when i get back in a week.

Bummer, let me know when you get parts to make more. thanks

3D Translite for Totan just annouced Today!
Should be amazing, so many things happening in image!

Hmmm, bare metal for me, im doing a custom powder coat job soon.

Thanks. Thats such a good idea and really great to offer this.

Nice work.
Is that laser cut?

Pm sent. Thank you for making these!!

Nice work!
These look great and i love the pruple there i got!
I just think you will be making more, and a few different one's to!

Thanks! Looking forward to a mod that only takes a couple minutes!

Holy wow!
Where did you get ypur plating done?
That stuff looks amazing!

Love my purple metal deflector!

20170825_111352 (resized).jpg

Nice work Modfather.

Were supposed to play these works of Art?

3d translite coming...probably not till Jan or so. Same guys making them as WW. Funhouse first, then Totan.

Pinball Dreams Germany.
"ALL titles arrived and are back in stock. They will be shipped to the US early next week. So PPS should stock all titles available: Fish Tales, Wh20. AFM, MM, TOM, RFM and BOP. Funhouse in the production line...TOTAN soon Have fun. Cheers Henrik"
Rick Just posted BOP in stock as of Today.

This is shocking news. AGREED WITH above, your having a ground issue for sure. Usually starts at wall, then cord to game. Could also not be fully seated at rear of game, then into cabinet checking all grounds at power box.

No.+1...Sorry. anxious to hear answer.

Finally finished and got my double topper to work.

20171203_154110 (resized).jpg

It wasnt easy! Same connectors for both at power driver board. Those damn little ones, .100 . So i knew if i put leds in sword, draw a few volt less power, this trick may work.
But, i hate rebuilding connectors.
I contacted Kim, at Kimballs pinballs. He was very helpful and after about a dozen emails we figured it out. Custom connector was built by kim. So connector comes.....didnt really work. Huge latency power flow that caused sword not to be in sync. The 2 powers needed to be joined together, cut off both molexs, built single pin molex for power, heavy12 gauge single wire in molex, now soldered both topper powers to it, still a delay in latency sync. Had to measure both power cables, make them the same length. Works perfectly now. Cleaver velcrow to join sword to lasserific topper. Removed lamp from lasserific, added my own from India, ordered genie bottle from Cairo Egypt, not kidding. Custom Totan topper done.
Was a lot more work than expected but turned out awesome. I also changed out playfield jewels for matching led bulbs to match toppers.
Hope above makes sense. The latency power flow was frustrating for sure. That little delay in power flow was not easy to trouble shoot.
Ill post pics of connectors when i get a chance. A little frankstien looking set , but it works.
Kim once again was very helpful, however if he makes another for someone i had to fix his, so let me know and ill share design flaws. Basically needed more length at data between joined connectors, barely fit in, hard to plug in.

Micro is making run of Totan playfields.

Opps, its Mirco, not Micro.

Confirmed, its plug and play, no new code needed. Runs with all versions of code.
It emulates the mode circles in between the flippers.

UMMM---NO!
Right Flipper, in the backbox there's a wire in the wrong spot. If you have manual go check that out, wire for wire on Driver board.

Great Topper.

Ive had this. Those 3 targets take a beating.
I had to replace all 3 diodes. They just get old.
Take a spare diode, bend to switch, now take 3rd hand and hit switch in test. Good way to check before dissemble.

Are you kidding me?
Im having same problem. Only bazaar scoop not working.

Yep, big paperweight right now.
I started a thread couple days ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-bazaar-stopped-working-#post-4757934

Ive run through those checks to.

Thanks a lot I'll check all that tomorrow. Wouldn't you know I have a big party at my house with about 40-50 people tomorrow. No Totan. Arabian is my only WPC 95 game. I'm almost certain that it's Q70 for some reason just decided not to work anymore, and I don't have any spares that are that size.

Thats right. This is a game that is very dependent on playfield pitch. All about the leg levelers. Finding that right angle and pitch.

Is your power driver board original?
I have found the 12v draw on PDB during multiball with many things happening causes this.

Original PDB board. Almost 24 years old.
Lord knows how many hours a game has been powered up at this point.
All these games are reaching the point of fail due to age. Remember, they were designed for ten years of service.

Send it out to be rebuilt. New rottendog( thats what i have). Karr daughter board can be a good patch.

Great Part!!! I have this installed.^^^^^^^^^

But your not blowing any fuses right?
How is the power at F116 during attract mod and power up? Meter that. Then glass off try a mutilball and get a reading when genie magnet steals ball. This is a 12v line at F116, if it is over taxed then you can get resets.

Titan has them in multiple colors.

Fastenal.com pretty much has everything you will ever need in hardware. I have started to get all brass hardware topside on my Indy.

There will always be a playfield for sale. Plenty of guys pick them up and never do the work. Hell I'm sitting on 2! Not totan fyi. Addams and a fire.

Cpr for Totan.

Did the inserts sink, slip down and you can feel the wood? Thats what it looks like.
If so, it may have been stored flat for 4 years, dont store playfields flat.

Ive been on the fence about CPR Totan. I have Addams and Indy and they are amazing. Its this damn light pan Im thinking just wont work good with glass. Barely works with a translight. I also have all 4 translites and switch up once or twice a year

Its the curing we are hearing about on so many new tables. When a CPR or Mirco playfield is delivered you should give it about 3-6 months rest before a swap. Storing in climate control is best, closet in house standing strait up.
Just good to not mess with gravity on inserts.
This time will also give clear coats plenty of time to harden and cure.

.....and they shouldn't.
4 years is a long time.
I'm not going to debate anybody here, but we were just offering advice.
In no way do I expect either CPR or PPS to be responsible here.
Im sorry your playfield has issues. Try and reach an agreement with the seller. Rick and Kevin have no way of knowing how this playfield has been handled for 4 years, sadly....poorly.

That is correct for USA. dip 1 & 2 off, all others on. I also went and pulled the manual and double checked.

Lol...inside front cover.
I'm not making fun, been there.

The iridescent lockdown bar is way too cool!!
Please do tell?

Anyone Buy the CPR Mirrored back glass?
Curious if its a nice upgrade?
Thanks

Amazing! Nicely Done.

Same here to, confirmed.
It is just a coil hold humm.
Wonder if an eos type stop could be used?

A well timed nudge at magnet release.

Key fob, 100%.