Just to chime in - taking my knowledge of other games (Sorry, guys, I'm not a ToTAN fan.. the theme didn't catch my attention back when I was in the operating business, and I don't know anyone now that has one to play near me! ) Ericpinballfan is correct on why it's there - PFs are ordered in batches, so.. when something goes unused, it's just left there without anything mounted in, until files are updated and the next batch is ordered.

Now normally, you could look at the switch table and see where it could fir into the matrix. However, looking at the manual, apparently there are two whole columns unused.

How I found out what the missing switches did in WCS, I loaded up Mame and manually activated the switches, watching what the screen did. However, since the entire columns are unused, it's possible that production ROM versions just skip scanning that column altogether (saves unnecessary scanning time, and gives faster response for all the other switches..) So it's possible that nothing will happen.

Probably would be better if someone had a preliminary ROM (P-xx or 0.x) around, as that may still have more code and scan the column neeed that contains the switch.

Anyways, that'd be what I would try, and my thoughts on it off-hand. Again, I don't know a *thing* about this game, so I could be so far off-base that I'll get ex-communicated.

Having said that, I will keep an eye on the thread now, as I too would be curious if it does anything in-game..!

Edit to add: It's possible that literally all it does is score a little bit of points, and maybe a sound-effect for the ball going up that loop. Since this one switch would have been taking up an entire column, take off the switch and stop scanning the column - maybe had better benefits to the rest of the game, like being able to watch the spinning lamp more quickly..?

I noticed that IPDB has v0.4 listed. I downloaded it and quickly tried it out. That version already has the 7th & 8th columns deactivated; they don't do anything.

So, this means that we would need an earlier version. (If you have one, fantastic!) It ALSO means that no matter what, adding a switch won't do anything in anyone's game, unless they're running an earlier release than 0.4. But, if an earlier version is out there, we can at lease see what it does..

That's a diode. A 1N4004 should do just fine there.

My guess is that it's a flipper code entry. And you've never entered it in.

http://hem.bredband.net/b257182/Cows&Easter.htm#T

All spelled out there. Have fun.

That's gorgeous. IMHO, leave the coin door black - if IT'S gold as well, I think it will draw the eye away from the lockdown bar / side rails.

Yes, it matters. The short and sweet - Fast Blow will pop/blow/open a LOT sooner when current gets to the fuses' rated value. Time-Delay will not. Likely, if you're using these on coil circuits, the fast-blow will open after a few coils fire, because the current draw is a lot higher when power is initially given to the coil.

Yup, that will affect it by far! In that case, a fast-blo should be fine. Or, at least, last a little longer.

You should see the driver side of the coil (thinner wire) drop to ground in regular intervals when on the test and it is set to repeat. The power side of the coil (thicker wires) should not change, and should be constant voltage.

If you are getting no pulse, something is bad between coil and driver. (Transistor, broken wore, etc.

Considering the previous coil burnt, likely your driver locked on and shorted itself ded.

Yup, good luck. I would not be surprised if you lost the driving transistor in the end.

Okay, yes - in that case, it is very possible your coil is bad. (Though, in theory, even with a bad coil, you should still see the pulsing drop. If you did NOT, it would mean that the transistor is still being held high when it drops, which means there's a short somewhere else.)

Drop in a different coil, and see if anything changes.

If nothing changes, then try this test -
In coil test, put your DMM into continuity check/mode. (The one where it 'beeps' when the leads are touched.) Put one lead on the metal backframe of the PCBs, and the other on the J111p5. Whenever the transistor activates the coil, you should get a 'beep' from your DMM.

Ah good! I thought I had replied to you, but I guess it had slipped my mind - a bad coil would show 0 or open ohms. Glad you got it!

In theory, if you're swapping a playfield, won't you already have everything you need?

However, on IPDB there is a "Parts List" - that will narrow it down so much you'll regret it.

"Magnetic Reed Switch"