(Topic ID: 97143)

TOTAN club! (fans welcome)

By mof

9 years ago


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#1971 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Can anyone confirm for me if all the bulbs are 13v under the spinning lamp? I read the manual and still can’t tell for sure. I think they are.
Thanks!

I recently bought a TOTAN, and replaced the bulbs. 2 bulbs are normal 555 6.5V. There is one flasher lamp as well. Typically, the black base units (2) are 6.5V. The one grey unit is the 12v flasher. Hope this helps.

1 week later
#2018 3 years ago

I joined Dec 18th. Working on a sh0p job + a bit more. Quick question. Left of the Pop Bumpers, rubbers and 2 bulbs. The rubbers are 2.5 inch i believe.
This does not look right, due to flex in the rubbers, the ball eventually hits and bend/breaks the bulbs. I want to keep the illumination incandescent, but its clear the bulbs will break over time (for the time being put a few leds). Is this correct, or am i missing something. If this is correct, its one hell of a bad design.

IMG_3035 (resized).jpgIMG_3035 (resized).jpg
#2021 3 years ago

Thanks. I already put a slighly smaller ring, and will leave the plastic leds in (this spot only).

Anyone have the right in lane plastic, and the plastic that reaches around the genie? I need just these two, and dont want to buy a complete set.

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1 month later
#2096 3 years ago

Joined the club back in December. The machine has a few problems, and over the last few months have worked out most of the bugs. But, I'm stuck.
After ball 1, my games loads 2 balls; but not all the time.

I have done the normal things: 1) Checked the ball trough for divets, and put in a shim. 2) Replaced the balls in case they were magnetized. 3) Went ahead and replaced the transmitter optos in the ball trough (and yes they test out fine). It still has the issue!

Last night i did some more playing, and realized this condition only manifests on ball2, and once Ball 1 is put into ball lock. Ball 2 loads along with Ball 3 all at once.
I also checked the ball lock switches, which all passed switch tests. Going to retry tonight.

Anyone have any ideas or seen this before?

#2098 3 years ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Did you reflow solder on the pin connections of the trough boards? Could be a cold solder joint causing intermittent false switch closure.

I inspected them under a magnifying glass, and they all looked great. But valid point, I had not attempted to reflow the connections. May give that a try tonight.

I will state that i did numerous switch edge tests with the optos. It never failed. And thought if i had a cold solder joint, i should have seen it by now.

At this point, I am open to trying anything......

#2100 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

So are you saying that you get Ball 1 sent up to the shooter lane normally, and then once you play that and it drains, a new ball it ejected into the shooter lane, followed by another a few seconds later? Or does the eject coil send up TWO BALLS at the same exact time with ONE coil energize?

Ball 1 loads perfectly. If i dont lock the ball (the mode), and it drains after play, ball 2, 3, and 4 load one at a time (per each normal play). But if I lock ball 1, when it loads ball 2, it also loads ball 3 immediately after. (note, before replacing the balls and shim, it used to do a random combo, sometimes loading 2 balls at once, or a few seconds later. the shim and ball replacement seem to clear part of it up). So I now have 2 balls stacked in the shooter lane. Even more interesting, if i left one ball drain, it still does not end the ball. At that point I have to drain both balls before it stops to play ball 3.

Is one coil activation loading 2 balls? I dont think so. It sounds like it is energizing twice. And if it were, the problem would be all the time, and not just went under ball lock.

It's bizarre.......

#2103 3 years ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

Just uncovered a handful of NOS/REPRO plastics for TOTAN. I will be putting them on the market soon. I don't have all of them, but a couple of sets of slings, the clear pieces, the swirl ramp, the underplayfield ball trough, an original new silverball shooter rod, and a new WMS logo flipper bat pair in purple with yellow rubber rings. Also have a couple new AE-27-1200 coils used in a few places in TOTAN.

I would be interested, depending on what you have.

Quoted from Markharris2000:

Longshot: Have you checked the shooter lane switch??? It might be flaky and not registering all the time. Just trying to eliminate variables here...

Indeed. That one works perfectly. Like, I said bizzare. Will mess with it tonight, and keep everyone posted.

#2104 3 years ago

One more question. Do Totan orders have an issue with the ball getting stuck on the left ramp? If the ball is hit to light (And the magnet is not activated), that ball gets stuck before the metal bracket/ramp. Again, only happens on a very slow ball.

#2108 3 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

I never have. It either rolls back down, or makes it over the hill, and gravity carries it through the ramp.
2 questions: What is your PF angle, and does your game have the metal "helper" bracket installed in the ramp at the magnet, or is it missing?
this "lift" bracket:
https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Game-Specific/Williams-75/Arabian-Nights/TOTAN---Magnet-Ramp-End-Patcher.html?language=en

Lift bracket is there, and it gets stuck right there at the entry. Only when the ball is hit soft. Bracket is not bent and sits flush.

Playfield angle is 2nd (+ a bit extra) line of the bubble. Think that is about 7 degrees or so.

I can increase the angle, but it shouldn't be needed

Quick update on my double ball load during lock. Figured it out. One of the lock switches (in the lane, there are two, right below the magnet), was returning very slowly. It was not popping back when activated. Instead very slowly coming back up. Must be a bug in the software, when this is activated under certain conditions, it ignores the shooter ball lane switch, then loading 2 balls. Replaced one of the bad lane lock switches, and no more problems (pic below of the switch I am discussing).

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#2111 3 years ago
Quoted from Seatmandan:

he said it was not the shooter lane. he said it was one of the two switches on the ball lock having a gummed up micro button under the actuator arm.
I’ve had some problems with the middle ball position switch over the years. these switches are a bear to adjust because they really need to be tested for actuation with the playfield down, and with rolling real pinballs into the ball lock when checking actuation in switch edge test. this is very hard to do with the large plastic in place, so it’s best to do it when shopping the game for cleaning.

Bingo. In the end, I replaced the switch (and recycled the actuator arm). There was nothing that appeared to bind with the old switch, but its release from being actuated was very slow. So assuming something just got gummed up in the switch. I'm still surprised that the game would react this way, since the shooter lane switch was working fine, and could detect an existing ball in the lane.

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