(Topic ID: 97143)
Linked Games
Tales of the Arabian Nights
Williams, 1996
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1 week later
Just finished up the play field rest on my TOTAN I bought last week. discovered that I need a new Bazaar scoop!
Things done: PF stripped, cleaned, rubbers replaced, ramps replaced, all plastics cleaned, started replacing GI lighting with LEDs
broken/sticky micro switches replaced, all PCB lamp boards pulled and cleaned.
I'm sure there's something I forgot! Just waiting on all new cabinet hardware & decals and this thing will be perfect!
1 week later
If you're in test mode, go to lamps+flashers and check it.
Note, since it on the flasher circuit, you have to have the interlock tool installed to enable the high power while the coin door is open.
Also- Be careful when working with the high power enabled when you have the play field up!!
testing it this way will allow you to see if a new flasher bulb will work
***EDIT*** If you are using LED flashers, they can be hard to get to make contact in the socket- may have to mess with the wires on the wedge of the LED bulb to make sure they are making contact with the socket
interlock tool:
tool installed to enable the high power which drives solenoids and flashers.
interlock4_(resized).jpg
3 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from larrys1:Maybe your ramps are twisted or not installed correctly. I would check that first, maybe install a shim in spots to try and avoid the problem.
I agree with this..I installed new ramps on mine and they are definitely faster than the stock/dirty ones. Maybe pull ramps and clean really good
Also, I think you may have the hex posts mixed up, thus twisting the ramp(s) slightly and changing pitch perhaps enough to prevent smooth flow.
read this for info on hex posts
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-restoration-help-with-hex-posts
1 week later
Quoted from aeonblack:how much fun was it figuring out which posts to use for the ramp?
I numbered my posts with numbered stickers and took photos of them before/as tearing it down so they'd go back in the exact place they came from. Still stressful!
Finished my TOTAN restore. My first major restore... big accomplishment for me to say the least- I just need to re-build the flippers and add new rubbers and it will be done! I love this game!
Quoted from dmacy:It looks stunning!
Thank you! It looks even better in person. I don't know about you guys, but doing one of these full restores makes me want to do another one. Luckily with this one, it was in great shape to start with, from the PF to the cabinet. Bought it from the original owner who was an operator. He had pulled it from routing in the late 90's and had it in his home until just a year ago, when he put it in the local small 8-lane bowling alley tucked away in the corner. I asked him why he had it at home for so long and he said it was his wife's favorite pin, and was never to be sold. I saw it at the bowling alley and got in contact with him and told him if he ever sold it, I would be interested. Well, as we all know, Cash is king!!
Ok, here goes a rough estimate. I did the machine in 2 major phases, first, the playfield, and second, the cabinet/backbox.
Playfield: Took approx. 18 hours (6 hours, 3 days)
1. completely stripped everything down, with the exception of the targets, slings and pop bumper bases. cleaned and waxed the playfield, replaced star posts, pop caps, & rubber parts.
2. replaced (with new) skill shot ramp, replaced (with new) bazaar scoop, replaced (with new)all 3 clear ramps, replaced (with new) genie & cleaned fireball ramp & genie lamp
3. replaced all GI lamps, flasher lamps and insert lamps with comet LEDs.
4. pulled all lamp PCBs and re-flowed solder on pin headers for cracked solder joints (few insert lamps out)
5. replaced both in-lane micro switches, replaced both ball lock micro switches, & cleaned/adjusted all other switches
6. removed/cleaned apron
7. on underside of playfield, cleaned all PF inserts (black dust) and all PF mechanics.
Again, as I was tearing it down, I took TONS of photos. Like I said earlier, when it came to the hex posts, I marked them with stickers, and while in place took photos. this made re-assembly a breeze.
Cabinet restoration/game re-assembly: Took approx. 24 hours (6 hours, 4 days)
1. Removed all boards from head & cleaned them, boards were all matching SN's with no hacks. pushed harnesses down into cabinet, removed backbox from cabinet. Removed speaker panel
2. Removed (completed) Playfield from Cabinet & stored in safe place.
4. Stripped cabinet of all hardware, sanded cabinet and backbox with Bosch 1250DEVS sander with 60-grit pads. Then sanded cab with 120-grit pads. Glued front right corner of cab and clamped. Finished sanding cab with 240-grit pads. Primed cabinet and backbox, sanded again with 24o-grit pads. Painted cabinet and backbox, sanded again by hand with 240 grit paper by hand
5. with the help of my daughter, applied decals on backbox & cabinet dry. Used McCune/Bryan Kelly method. worked perfectly. trimmed decals, used black paint pen on edges (Bryan Kelly method)
6. refurbished coin door using Bryan Kelly Method. installed brand new side rails, stern leg protectors, and coin door.
7. refurbished all exposed carriage bolts (backbox & cab)
8. refurbished lockdown assembly, re-installed.
9. re-installed playfield, installed brand new legs & levelers, re-installed backbox onto cabinet.
10. replaced speaker panel with new, installed pinball pro speakers/woofer, installed colorDMD
11. disassembled translite, and cleaned/painted the light tub white. re-assembled.
12 installed brand new lockdown bar
Two areas I did not completely restore were the back of the cabinet/backbox, because it was already in excellent shape, and the inside of the cabinet. They both just needed a good cleaning. The game came with all the original documentation as well as the cash box.
Lastly, the Playfield glass could be replaced but it's not that bad at all.
EDIT: added a photo of the machine before the restore. 2nd one is the bowling alley where I got it
It took me about a month total, from ordering all the replacement parts from different sources (PPS, Marco, PDI) to working on it mostly on the weekends. I was really surprised how well the Bosch sander worked. It's the 1250DEVS, which equates to the 6" festool. It stripped the decals in record time. 5 minutes per side on the backbox, and 15 minutes per side on the cabinet. Amazing product for the price. I have a shop-vac hook-up for it, so there was zero dust.
The cabinet decals were the most stressful because of how big they are. I followed Bryan Kelly's IJ thread meticulously as far as applying them and trimming them. they turned out amazing. Definitely a 2-person job. I built a coin door plug to do the front. When I got the game it was in superb condition with the exception of cabinet fade and a slight separation on the cabinet between the front and right side. I think that the condition of the machine in the beginning is key. Hope this all helps!!
EDIT: added some images of the sanding
totan_restore-03_(resized).jpg
totan_restore-04_(resized).jpg
Thanks dmacy. I really had fun doing it . I say if it isn't fun for ya, you might be in the wrong hobby! I really love pinball
2 weeks later
Quoted from biglaw:Pinbits has both plastic pieces 35.00
NOTE: The center plastic ball rail attaches from the underside of the playfield with a metal bracket thats attached to it. Are you missing the entire thing? If so, you may have to fabricate the bracket to go with this plastic
-Dan
1 month later
My game had this problem when I bought it. It turned out to be the ramp entrance/gate microswitch. It was old/sticky and wouldn't always register (like most old switches do) I replaced it when I replaced my ramps and all is perfect now. I believe it's that switch that tells the diverter to open or not.
Here's a pic.
To be a little more clear- When I bought my game, it would do "diverter broken" MOST of the time, which means SOME of the time, it would work. The culprit was the switch (like mentioned above) at the ramp entrance that was working only SOME of the time.
Replacing the switch fixed it, not re-booting the game.
1 month later
1 week later
Quoted from Yamisetatiggler:the inner left loop does not register during game play but tests OK.
Do you test it in switch edge test with just your finger pushing it down, or by rolling a ball over it? Sometimes it falls out of adjustment or the micro "button" (under the metal lever) starts to gum up/flake out. May have to re-adjust it so a ball will activate it (if this is the case) or replace it with a new one.
Just an Idea -Dan
6 months later
Quoted from rdbronko73:That did the trick. The lights for the backglass are working properly now. Thanks!
rdbronko73, way to bring that "parts machine" back from near death! Looks great! Nice job!
All TOTAN owners,
I wanted to say that over the holiday break I bought and installed Herg's LED OCD and GI OCD boards on my TOTAN... and all I can say is this is the best mod to date you can install on this game, hands down! I have all Comet LEDs throughout the game, and the boards clean up ALL the flickering and allow the GI to perform dimming as it should. AWESOME is all I can say!
Quoted from aeonblack:Bump on this issue, still can't figure it out. Does anyone else have any ideas on what I should be looking for?
Maybe a wire came off under the playfield. Check out this TZ thread coil issue, sounds like he had a similar problem
1 week later
Quoted from robotron:the flicker on totan was the only one driving me crazy
I totally agree on this, as I would imagine most all other TOTAN owners who have LEDs installed. If the game is in a really dark game room, the flickering can cause you to lose track of the ball, especially during multiball. I believe HERG invented the OCD boards using his TOTAN game!
1 month later
Quoted from Stokoloog:I saw the diode is connected to the target on a different manner.
If you look at the wiring, it's pretty much the same (Green-yellow front tab, White blue rear tab) except that the tabs are on the bottom rather than the side. I would wire it the same way, Green yellow to the empty lug and White-blue to the non-banded diode side lug.
EDIT: As far as the diode is concerned, it looks like the leafs are out of order. I think the banded side diode connection should be isolated from the other two connections . maybe it was assembled that way on accident.
Can you add another photo of that area from a different angle? Is that empty lug coming off the center blade in the switch stack? In the photo, it looks like it's stacked with the front diode lug (banded side). If it is, then I believe it's wrong. See my attached photo of my popeye game for proper order. Maybe the experts can chime in on this
1 week later
Quoted from Whitewater:I have made a guard
Is that to replace this guard?
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_22&products_id=345
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-skill-shot-with-plastic-side-guard-without
2 weeks later
Quoted from Namsan:Some photos of mine, restoration still in progress.
Is that powder coat, or spray paint? That wear on the scimitar is rough
1 week later
1 week later
Quoted from robotron:stupid money. 175.00
but i just had to have it.
yes pdi
Yeah, I'm gonna pull the trigger on that too eventually. It's the last piece I need for my TOTAN to be perfect...
Quoted from jsa:Hey folks. Is the lamp supposed to be squished like this?
Damn, looks like it spent some time in the Arabian Desert
2 weeks later
Quoted from Whitewater:I have the same problem ... not sure what the solution is ?
I think this target is supposed to be an A-18530-6 standard oblong target (yellow) instead of the A-18017-6 3D target thats shown in your picture. The 3D target is supposed to be behind the two newton balls and up next to the genie. I believe the TOTAN manual has these called out backwards. Either that, or Marco has them listed backwards (part numbers swapped)
Image is from High-End Pins (HEP)
1 month later
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Do you guys think its worth doing new cab decals
Decals make the game look BRAND NEW. they are not too hard either if the cabinet wood is in excellent shape and all you have is fade, like mine was.
Original Decals-01 (resized).JPG
Cabinet Refinishing-02 (resized).jpg
Quoted from jake35:looks great. How long did it take (including pulling PF, etc)
I believe this post details it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-club/page/8#post-2993193
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Where did you buy decals? Ive seen a few spots and differnt prices
Ordered mine from Planetary Pinball Supply, who doesn't seem to carry TOTAN ones anymore. PDI seems to have the same ones, for around the same price. I know that the ones I got from PPS were "Genuine BW replacement" printed with "Next-generation" printing. see image
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Thanks a ton
Not a problem! Maybe contact PPS to see if they still sell them even though they are not shown on their site. They were excellent to deal with!
Quoted from Robertstone0407:What starting grit did you use and finish?
60 to start, then 120 to remove the sanding swirl marks, then 240 to smooth it all out. after priming and painting, 240 to finish.
1 week later
Quoted from jsa:Do you all have this same contact? Is the rubber in the wrong place?
Normal on replacement rubbers because they tend to be slightly fatter than the OEM ones..
Question- What's with the red pop bumper caps?
Quoted from jsa:Hmm, looks like high_end_pins has two bands in his photos:
The second band (bottom one I believe) is used to prevent a ball trap. If you only have one, a ball can get wedged in there between the PF and rubber. Happened on mine a few times (rare) until I restored it and added the second band.
3 months later
Quoted from jsa:I had to cut the back of the eyes off with an xacto knife.
Yeah, I did too. Because this part is molded with a roto-cast/slush mold technology, it's impossible to prevent heavy build-up of material in certain areas, in this case, the eye pockets. I'm sure all the genies on the production games back in 1996 had the same problem, however B/W probably had a hot knife or dremmel-like tool on the assembly line molding area to finish the part after it was de-molded. No big deal, right? kind of a pain though!
1 week later
2 months later
Quoted from jsa:Here's a question: I often get the Vanishing Magnet is Broken error message. I then run the Genie Test and it shows everything is ok, and the credit dot disappears.
I was getting the exact same problem when I bought my TOTAN. Mine was a flaky microswitch in the tunnel just under the vanishing magnet. I replaced the microswitch and have NEVER gotten the error since.
EDIT: Keep in mind, the only way to activate this switch is either through the Magnet dropping to start multiball or the Harem sneak-in hole. If you play so many games in a row WITHOUT actuating the switch, it triggers the error. This might be the problem if the switch is fine. I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that this is the error it throws instead of "check switch 12 vanish tunnel"
here's the switch:
3 weeks later
Quoted from xsonics2k2:You mentioned that you replaced the switch, do you remember where you found it?
use this switch body, and transfer the wire actuator lever over: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1860
With these diodes: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=173
The unique number for the part in the manual (A-12238 in this case) pertains to the actuator lever itself, really. all the switch bodies are 3-pole DA3 switches, usually the easy-actuation force like the one listed above. Just transfer the flat lever over and solder a NEW 1N4004 diode on, and then install. Should fix all your problems. buying a few of these when ordering can't hurt- you probably will be replacing others in the future, especially if you own multiple B/W pins!
I've used this one as well and it works just fine. I think it is a stronger pressure on the button:
2 weeks later
Quoted from xsonics2k2:Thanks for the detailed info Seatmandan! I'm finally getting around to fixing it this evening
No problem! Glad I could help! This game is great when everything works properly!
1 year later
Quoted from pinballdork:Made a Alt translite with art purchased online. I changed the jewel in her head piece to red, and I will put a lamp behind it to light when her ruby lights. And I put in a new Lamp from -Alibaba-.
Looks great EXCEPT-- the Tiger looks like it's out of a Disney movie. (Jungle Book?) Maybe needs to look a little more realistic
5 months later
thinner one is for Bazaar and ramp targets, fatter one is for targets next to genie and in the captive ball areas
Edit: I believe the manual is backwards, or at least the images in the illustrations are
1 week later
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:So I just upgraded my code to 1.4 mainly because when the ball is on the genie magnet for a mode start it would just drop the ball SDTM. After the update I still get the same thing after the mode start it just drops ball. I just watched videos and see some try and move the ball before it drops it.
All I see in the menu is Magnet Trow I set it to 3 from Factory setting of 1 but still no difference. Is there something i'm missing or need to set somewhere else?
I had this problem too. messing with the throw setting never quite fixed it, so I un-leveled the game side to side slightly, and this fixed all the gravity drops SDTM. The ball will now catch the tip of a flipper when that happens.
1 week later
Quoted from Tinnhound:Hi everyone, I picked up a TOTAN a few days ago, and have been going thru it, fixing things, and playing it a bit. I noticed last night that when all 3 Lock lights were lit, I could send the ball up the left loop repeatedly and not lock a ball, however, I could lock a ball below the tiger magnet. I went thru the entire switch matrix on edge test, and every single switch works. What am I missing here? I am assuming that since there is a lock light flashing at the left loop , that I should be able to lock a ball, is this not the case? I have game ROM 1.4 Thanks for all help and advice!
This ball lock can be temperamental. Make sure that when the balls are entering the lock lane from the top, and coming to a rest (specifically locks 2 & 3, lock 1 is a saucer and isn't usually out of adjustment) that when stacked up, they all depress and actuate the microswitches under them. It's usually locks 2 and 3 that need adjustment. switch 3 isn't really a lock, it's just a stack that will tell the game to dump lock 1 and then the top 2 move down.
I had a problem with 2 & 3 for a while, finally dialed it in. Check them with the playfield in the down 6.5 degree position
3 positions (resized).JPGdid you check the left inside orbit switch? this switch tells the magnet to turn on and grab the ball. Does the Magnet turn on? if the switch works in edge test, MAYBE the ball is not depressing it fully when in flight around the orbit. If this is the case, adjust the height of the microswitch under the PF and test the orbit with a ball in edge test with the PF DOWN in the 6.5 deg. position
left loop lock (resized).JPG
Quoted from shock_me:Just wondering. Does the diverter open to send the ball into the Tiger loop?
great point- if the ball is ending up in the pop bumpers when you're shooting the left orbit when lock is lit, then this is the case
ALSO: I believe that the mode Sinbad and the Rocs does not let you lock with the left orbit when the mode is active. If it's not that mode, then it's another.
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:The iridescent lockdown bar is way too cool!!
Please do tell?
That looks like the paint called "Mystic" that Ford Motor Company used in the 90's and early 2000's on certain Mustangs
Mystic (resized).jpg 2 weeks later
I'm guessing that they probably have bunched up, pooling, rippled clearcoat around the holes where the posts go
3 weeks later
Quoted from wolfemaaan:I did also run into the mysterious “vanish magnet broken” error which seems to have gone away now
This error is caused by the microswitch in
the subway just under the vanish magnet not registering properly. this could be by a flaky/bad switch, a bent actuation wire, or just not hitting the switch for 25+ games
1 month later
Quoted from harryhoudini:Had to direct solder one of the wires to a blade, the tab broke off,
My genie assembly had a broken tab on the switch as well, and I fixed it the same way. Been that way for quite a while now with zero problems. Nice work!
Quoted from harryhoudini:Is this a thing? If you miss the skill shot completely (I think my sword is pushing the ball to the left so sometimes it misses landing on the skill shot) and let the ball drain (with ball save on) you get another ball and another chance at the skill shot.
It looks like your game is missing the clear deflector on the LH side of the skill shot ramp.
Deflector (resized).JPGmissing deflector (resized).JPGIt looks like Marco carries it, but it's out of stock.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-2562-3
LSOG has it.
Pinbits has it too. Looks like they can also provide the small bracket as well.
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=345
EDIT: You'll need to make a small "L" shaped bracket for it to attach it to the skill shot
Quoted from harryhoudini:The bazaar kickout is still not consistently hitting the flipper (drain). I took it out and it looks like someone had to weld the tabs back together that hold the side to the scoop and didn't quite align it well enough, so there is a wider gap at the top, which seems to let the ball go too far left. I bent the heck out of it and it's better, but I think I might just order the part from Marco.
I had the same problem with mine (broken welds) replaced it with a marco (mantis) one when I restored it, kicks out perfectly ever since
I do not have any aftermarket mods, so can't really help you on the genie mods. As far as the flasher wiring- the owners manual is invaluable for this!
good luck, -Dan
EDIT:
Looks looks it's out of stock at Marco, and more expensive. ($99.00) Mantis Amusements has it for $75.00
https://mantispinball.com/product/tales-of-the-arabian-nights-bazaar-scoop/
Quoted from harryhoudini:Is this the replacement for the lock magnet bracket and core (A-18157)
No, I believe that one would be too big of a core for the magnet.
Are you missing the tiger magnet core bracket all together? (A-18157) If so, I might have the used one from my game when I restored it.
Quoted from harryhoudini:Or one of these. Marco uses the same picture, not sure if that means they are the same or just similar.
I believe this bracket is for a smaller diameter (O.D.) magnet, and Marco is using the wrong picture. It's the magnet bracket for under the mini-playfield on TZ, and won't work for TOTAN.
Yes, this is the correct nut that you listed:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=4428-01135-00+nut
Quoted from wolfemaaan:Where did you find an original new? I’m good with the TZ as the original wasn’t in stock anywhere
I bought it back in early 2016, when I restored my TOTAN.
I have yet to install it, as I recall I just filed down the one that came with the game and left it in there.
2 months later
Quoted from Phantasize:Whenever the long left diverter under the ramp is pulled and in hold mode, there is a loud hum or "rattle sound".
Rebuild the assembly to tighten up all the looseness (rattling) and turn up the game volume to muffle the humming sound. TOTAN has GREAT sound.
1 week later
Quoted from wolfemaaan:it’s a ColorDMD but the original LCD and not the new version. The new version is a little more crisp though,
Huh? I have 2 older ones and a new one and they all look exactly the same. not sure what your comment refers to
Quoted from wolfemaaan:I do DOTXL but even with that you can tell the difference
When they (old LCD v.s. new) are both set to standard there is zero difference IMO. The reason the newer ones look better is because of DotXL setting.
You said the new one looks "sharper" which I don't agree with. they look exactly the same. Only difference being the looks of the chassis and the firmware.
As far as the LED display goes, there's definitely a difference there.
My point is, nobody should be discouraged from buying a game with the gen.1 ColorDMD. They are great just like the newer one
1 week later
Quoted from transprtr4u:Cause and cure ... when the magnet in front of the genie releases the ball on occasion it will not “jiggle" the ball and causes the ball to drain SDTM
Any suggestions ?
Nothing.
What I did was put an intentional slant to the RH side (Bazaar side) to cause the ball to either contact a spinning genie lamp post, or drive towards the RH flipper slightly. Only thing that works.
Quoted from arolden:In the latest ROM revision, there is a setting to change how hard the magnet flings the ball away on release. Try changing that setting.
This does nothing in the instances where the ball does NOT fling.
What i'm saying is, even with the "MAGNET THROW" setting turned all the way up, there are times when it does NOT throw the ball at all, and it still drops SDTM. It's NOT the magnet, because I've tried a brand new magnet and it will still do it sometimes.
I'm pretty sure that this topic is covered in this thread somewhere already, and if not, then its in another thread here on Pinside
I just want to prepare you for the disappointment you'll have when the ball is still dropping SDTM sometimes, that's all.
EDIT: also want to note that I run V1.4 as well.
Quoted from Jamwin:found a TOTAN fuse kit on Marcos, just ordered that. thanks again for the insights.
The bag of short 4.0A fuses you see in my image are from the Marco TOTAN fuse kit I believe.
EDIT: I did verify that those are indeed TOTAN fuses. The "T" in front of the amperage value means "time delay" which is noted in the manual. see image:
TOTAN GI FUSES (resized).JPGQuoted from Coyote:Yes, it matters. The short and sweet - Fast Blow will pop/blow/open a LOT sooner when current gets to the fuses' rated value. Time-Delay will not. Likely, if you're using these on coil circuits, the fast-blow will open after a few coils fire, because the current draw is a lot higher when power is initially given to the coil.
I agree. this is, however, a G.I. circuit I believe, and wouldn't using LEDs make the current draw way less than incandescents, thus reducing the issue? Just curious...
8 months later
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:That's correct a Newton ball should be there.
With a loose pinball between it and the target, just like the one on the RHS of the game under the clear ramp
EDIT: and, thats the wrong target switch- should be a narrow yellow one, like this:
1 month later
Quoted from Onwallst:Need help. Keep getting vanishing magnet broken error. But the magnet works fine. Thoughts?
I had this error. It was intermittent at first, then all the time.
There's a microswitch just under the magnet in the clear subway. It's where the ball goes when it vanishes. This switch may be sticking, or out of adjustment. For me, the switch body nub was gummed up and wouldn't "click" out all the time, I replaced the switch and fixed the error.
I did post that on this thread a few years ago with photos.
Hope this helps
my original post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/totan-club/page/22#post-4155669
1 month later
Quoted from EStroh:I decided to take a swing at making a fireball. I wanted mine to look more "ball shaped" (like a small sun).
Here's my first pass at it...
That looks awesome! looks very realistic when lit
Quoted from BrianZ:One more question. Do Totan orders have an issue with the ball getting stuck on the left ramp? If the ball is hit to light (And the magnet is not activated), that ball gets stuck before the metal bracket/ramp. Again, only happens on a very slow ball.
I never have. It either rolls back down, or makes it over the hill, and gravity carries it through the ramp.
2 questions: What is your PF angle, and does your game have the metal "helper" bracket installed in the ramp at the magnet, or is it missing?
this "lift" bracket:
https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Game-Specific/Williams-75/Arabian-Nights/TOTAN---Magnet-Ramp-End-Patcher.html?language=en
Quoted from Markharris2000:So it was a shooter lane switch issue, but not the switch itself
he said it was not the shooter lane. he said it was one of the two switches on the ball lock having a gummed up micro button under the actuator arm.
I’ve had some problems with the middle ball position switch over the years. these switches are a bear to adjust because they really need to be tested for actuation with the playfield down, and with rolling real pinballs into the ball lock when checking actuation in switch edge test. this is very hard to do with the large plastic in place, so it’s best to do it when shopping the game for cleaning.
3 weeks later
Quoted from toddsolus:Bazaar are the thin ones and genie Newton balls are 3D on mine.
...Which is the correct way from games in the arcade back in the mid 90's
Quoted from gb:So, TOTAN fans, which is correct? Is the manual wrong?
Games came from factory with 3D ones behind the newton balls
People over the years replaced the bazaar and ramp ones with the 3D b/c the reinr. ones didn't exist, and they took a beating better.
9 months later
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