Emerald Isle, NC
Quoted from shock_me:This dagger plastic came with the new plastic set. Anyone know where it goes?
It's the spiral ramp diverter cover
(Topic ID: 97143)
Linked Games
Tales of the Arabian Nights
Williams, 1996
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Quoted from shock_me:It's not that one actually, but I can see the resemblance. It seems to be a slightly different shaped plastic. It must just be a bonus plastic I guess. Or a guitar pic
Hmm, you are right. I'll have to check out my plastic kit tomorrow and see if I have one too.
2 weeks later
Switch question. I recently picked up a TOTAN and when going thru it, I noticed a blank switch.
It's on the right obit, just below the top skill shot. Anyone else have this? I looked thru the manual and didn't see any reference. And in another thread, someone is doing a restoration and their new PF doesn't look like it has it. Was just wondering if mine is missing something or it's just a post production omission. Thanks.
Quoted from AlexSMendes:My PF does not have this blank switch hole....
Out of curiosity, is yours a US version or Export version?
And for others, how do you tell if you are an early or late production?
I find it funny that it's there, dimpled and ready to go but nothing in the manual that I have found). I wonder if there's a way to incorporate it like the 3rd magnet on TZ.
Quoted from Namsan:Talking about the playfield i've just finished the clear coat on mine. So shiny
Wow, that's some playfield porn right there. Looks outstanding! I would love to do something like that to mine, but considering I'm 2 years into my WW playfield swap - I think I'll wait a bit before I do something like this 
Quoted from Ericpinballfan:That empty switch slot had to do something in prototype. Factory left it because playfields were probably already made.
I agree, it's obvious it had some purpose and if the code is still there, maybe an easy addition? But my question is why do some playfields have it and others don't. I'd think if they choose not to use it, they'd just leave it in and omit the switch rather than altering the line and removing the slot/dimple, etc.
I'm hoping some of the senior guys like Vid, Loyd, Coyote, etc. may know the story behind it.
Quoted from Coyote:Now normally, you could look at the switch table and see where it could fir into the matrix. However, looking at the manual, apparently there are two whole columns unused.
Interesting, I know in my game there are several plugs at the top of the PF that aren't used and are just hanging there. I wonder if they align to anything in the manual and will check it when I get home next week.
Quoted from Coyote:Probably would be better if someone had a preliminary ROM (P-xx or 0.x) around, as that may still have more code and scan the column neeed that contains the switch.
I just upgraded my ROMs as the machine was bone stock and was the ROM was one of the earliest ones from what I remember. If it turns out to be the one needed for scanning, I'm more than happy to donate to someone that can read it and scan the column.
1 week later
Quoted from PPS:All ... I'm running the TOTAN spinning disk and wondering if any other color(s) would be interesting ... let me know your thoughts.
+1 on the purple and I'm thinking maybe a clear? That way you may get some cool light features depending on the LED choices below.
*Edit: probably a better question is - what colors/features are you able to mold from?
Quoted from PPS:I can make them in most any color than can be injected - i.e. most of the WMS transparent colors - so purple/violet and clear are doable.
Awesome, I'm in for a stock red and a clear, but would love to see what purple would look like.
2 months later
Quoted from Robertstone0407:Just got my fireball mod from ERAK. Wow one of the best constructed and best dudes to deal with!
Wow, that looks awesome. I think I am going to need one too 
5 months later
Quoted from jsa:Here's a question: I often get the Vanishing Magnet is Broken error message. I then run the Genie Test and it shows everything is ok, and the credit dot disappears.
What happens exactly that triggers this error?
I believe I read somewhere that it's a bug in the home rom for TOTAN. I know mine started to do the same thing when I upgraded to the home roms.
Dunno for sure, but seems plausible. If I get some free time, I may put the old rom back in to see if the error goes away.
5 years later
I have a ball lock switch question. Does anyone know the order of the switches?
They are 2 different part numbers, so I’m assuming that they are different shapes. The manual lists them in the switch diagram (p121) as part #A14820, which is the entire assembly. I have looked, but can’t seem to find the order.
The switch part numbers are: 5647-12693-50 switch, 5647-12693-51 switch
As others have mentioned in this thread, they have had problems with the ball lock. Mine is no exception, so I want to see if maybe an incorrect switch was installed or maybe in the wrong position.
I do realize these switches are impossible to find, but I did pick up a -51 years ago before everyone went out of stock. As for the -50, I have no idea what it should or shouldn’t look like, so I wanted to see if I can identify what’s currently there and if it's the correct order.
Thanks!
Totan1 (resized).JPGtotan2 (resized).JPGtotan3 (resized).JPG50 (resized).JPG51 (resized).JPGQuoted from Williams95:It seems like switch type 51 has an initial bend in the switch actuator to the side where as the actuator for switch type 50 is straight (i.e. lined up to the switch body). That bend to the side is not easy to pick up in the Marco pics. If that isn't what you needed just let me know and I can took other pics. btw - I had issues with those switches as well. I transferred the actuators to new switch bodies and then bent the actuators a bit - the switches work a lot better now! Without these switches working consistently, the game would not properly recognize Harem MB and it wouldn't start.
Thanks! I think you may be right by transferring the actuators to new switch bodies, didn't think of that. So this may solve my issues with new switches. Also, do you know which switch is closest to the saucer, 50 or 51? I'm still trying to determine if an operator may have took a shortcut when servicing.
Quoted from Williams95:Unless I'm mixing things up - 50 is used for switch #68 Lock 3 (top) and 51 is closest to the saucer or switch #67 Lock 2 (middle). Switching the actuators can be tricky and delicate at first - going slowly with a small flat head screwdriver is what I do (although I have only done this a few times).
fyi - I just came across the following alternative / back-up available at Marco (thank you to Markharris2000):
Thanks again for the help.
I just put a dozen of the back-ups in my cart as I think it should work, but am not confident in my origami skills. So what I may do is make a couple photocopies of the originals and then use it as a template and see how that goes.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:any idea what those holes are for? Should I just ignore them?
I just looked at mine and it has the same. Predrilled and nothing has ever been installed/screwed in.
I think there is more to the story of TOTAN. I had an earlier post here where I found a switch slot cut on the PF (under top skill shot), but no switch, etc. No one seems to know what it's for. So I'm guessing there were some added features that didn't make it to production.
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