Hello all! I’m having an issue with the Bazaar Eject coil. While playing two balls got stuck in scoop, and since then, coil will not fire in test nor in game play. Changed coil sleeve and inspected coil, it was not hot. Switch prior to coil tests fine. All fuses test good out of board in 8 month old Rottendog, volts on lugs read 71.5 V on both, volts at J116-6 reads 71.5 V, 7.3 resistance, and breifly grounding out Q70 fires the coil (somewhat, but not a full fire).

I have changed the 3inch ribbon between mpu and pcb, and have reseated all connections as well. In addition, the Vanish Magnet Broken error now shows up after this happened, which never happened on this machine since new pcb was installed, but in test I can hear the magnet fire. No other solenoids are effected and all test good.

Any suggestions on what may be the issue or what to try next are welcomed. Thanks!

Well misery loves company! Hopefully we run into someone who may have had this problem and solved it. Game is a big paperweight without that scoop working.

I swapped out my pcb with a spare and got it going, any wpc 95 would work. There was a flasher wire that came across the coil and wear caused bare wire exposure that I think caused board damage on mine, so you may want to check close. Before swapping, if you do that, check the resistace on the coil first, so that you don’t damage the swapped in pcb. Mine measured 7.3 ohms if that helps. Test the continuity between coil and the j 116-6 line in the backbox too. Good luck!

Mine was chromed well when I got it, but I like that TOTAN teal! Looks good and good luck with the fixup! Great game!

Try looking over anything you may have worked on recently prior to it happening. If you changed any GI leds, inspect the sockets, looking for possibly a bent tab touching the center of the socket or a broken wire. I’ve been there as well, it just takes time to find it, thats why I suggest looking at the last place you may have worked on the game, happened on my CV.

Her Ruby is yours! Congrats!

The scoop is a super tight fit. When I installed a Cliffy, I had to manipulate the scoop top to get the ball to even fit down the entrance. But in doing so I adjusted the top of the scoop to stop any SDTM ejects. The metal is stiff and hard to bend, but it doesn’t take much. When looking dead on at the scoop, I torqued the top left of the scoop downward a hair and that changed the eject trajectory just enough.

Yes, had to remove to do this. I used locking pliers with a cloth in-between. I look forward to hearing about the playfield swap! Good luck with it! I was thinking about doing a FT and IJ(if it ever gets approved for Mirco).

There may be a short at the Slam Tilt switch (switch 21). I would check the switches to see if any connections look suspect or if you have a spare powerboard or swap out one from another game to see if the resets continue.

I had mine repaired locally but still had resets. Replaced with Rottendog and game has no issues. Get the old one repaired and have a backup.

You may be able to find someone near you, but I use and have had good luck with ksarcade.com for both purchasing new boards and one repair. The Coin-OP Cauldron and Chris Hibler are others.

Thanks for the link! They seem to have reasonable prices too. I would like to try a board repair someday, but it’s getting tougher with these old man eyes I have lol.

Looks great! You should be proud of your work! Her ruby is yours

Wow! Man that stinks! Couldn’t hurt to ask someone at CPR about how to repair. It is a great game so hopefully the original in the game is playable! Enjoy!

I have one right at the end of the ball trough before the shooter.

Lol! Woops! Thats the one you showed.

Keep tweeking the top of the eject scoop, it will do the trick. Had to adjust mine after adding cliffy.

Could be a flakey switch on the first ball lock. I’d start there. See if the switch matrix flutters when ball lands on it

Try reseating the ribbon cables in the backbox. Make sure all the pins on the cables are aligned and cables are pushed on securely. If it still does the repeating, next try GENTLY pushing in on the chips on the MPU board. While in the back box exam your batteries for any signs of corrosion or leakage as well.

Could be a ROM issue yes, as well as shooter lane switch if ball bounces before settling in on the switch completely, good thought!

Agreed. you may have hit a Bazaar award “Light special” which is awarded when ball exits the outlanes. That can be set to replay or extra ball or ticket

Bong of Bagdad?!? Looks like the Cheech and Chong version of TOTAN

That’s a beauty! Congratulations!

Looks like Little shop of games has it for $60.

https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/decals/decals-insert/tales-of-the-arabian-nights-insert-decal-set/

You might want to check to see if adding/removing a washer at the pivot point helps align the coil plunger up a little better with the coil. I had a similar issue with the diverter at the top of the ramp and a washer did the trick.

No it shouldn’t be lit all the time. Maybe check the socket

Great! Now shoot again.

Yes, and it goes up in value at least once if you do it consecutively. Haven’t been able to beat the genie myself but have gotten to him a few times....Congrats! I find that I often set my high scores on a game I just worked on, which I think is a “thank you” from the game. Karma right!

Not familiar with the mod, but if you used alligator clips to power something on it, you may have shorted out the bulb you attached it to. Check the associated fuse and replace if it’s blown. Before replacing, and powering back on, see if any clip is touching the base of a socket and anything near by that you may have bumped while installing (resistors bent over, loose wire, etc). Always start with what you did last on the machine.

J105 is the value for the wiring to the powerboard for the GI, you will want to check page 1-47 of the manual for the fuse list. You will want to check fuses F110 through F114. These will be glass and found in the lower left portion of the powerboard, right above J105. Make sure the game is off, remove a fuse, check it with a dmm for continuity, replace if bad with a new one that has the proper value and type.
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You’re welcome! We all have to start somewhere. Take your time, watch youtube videos and search posts here on pinside, most things have been answered in the past, but can be tricky to find exactly what you need. Pinwiki is a great resource as well.

Great idea for a pinsound version....

“Oh Master!”
Theme song
“Do-onig” sound effect
And of course the canned laugh track

Could the balls have become magnetized? Maybe try some new ones

I had an issue with the diverter a while back. You may need to just rotate the coil a quarter turn (or a half turn by the look of the pix) so the lugs point out towards the right side (towards pop bumpers). You will need to remove the coil stop to rotate it. Also few washers can be used at the pivot point to make sure the plungger is properly aligned with the coil.

Watch Cary Hardy’s Expo22 show walkthrough video (@ the 34:30 minute mark). The hardtop company that is producing TOTAN cabinet decals that look great.

http://www.outsideedgeproducts.com/store/p78/Pinball_Cabinet_Decals.html

Yeah he’s pulling your chain because I got his last one