Quoted from Warzard:Isn’t it coming from a broken plastic ?
I don't think so. The plastic ends like that on other people's pictures too. Also, if it were for holding the big plastic then one hole would be enough.
(Topic ID: 97143)
Linked Games
Tales of the Arabian Nights
Williams, 1996
Topic Gallery
Canton, GA
Mine is just like that also (2 holes there). Never noticed it before with the black wood in a dark area. So I assume normal.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:any idea what those holes are for? Should I just ignore them?
I just looked at mine and it has the same. Predrilled and nothing has ever been installed/screwed in.
I think there is more to the story of TOTAN. I had an earlier post here where I found a switch slot cut on the PF (under top skill shot), but no switch, etc. No one seems to know what it's for. So I'm guessing there were some added features that didn't make it to production.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:So, any idea what those holes are for? Should I just ignore them?
[quoted image]
No holes on mine. Probably fill-in and ignore.
IMG_9376 (resized).jpeg
Ottawa, ON
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I'm in the club since three days back
Immediately began a teardown to clean everything, replace broken plastics, change rubbers and so on.
I found these two empty screw holes in the left woodrail, but nothing were fastened there and I can't see anything missing compared with totan pictures from ipdb.
So, any idea what those holes are for? Should I just ignore them?
[quoted image]
Here’s what mine looks like - someone before me put in those posts (I did change out the rubbers to purple). BUT, upon closer inspection there is what looks like a pre-drilled hole beside one of the posts and perhaps one next to the other post. I would have never noticed that.
FA9A6745-D966-499B-AA52-10A588AD170E (resized).jpegQuoted from Dante:I just looked at mine and it has the same. Predrilled and nothing has ever been installed/screwed in.
I think there is more to the story of TOTAN. I had an earlier post here where I found a switch slot cut on the PF (under top skill shot), but no switch, etc. No one seems to know what it's for. So I'm guessing there were some added features that didn't make it to production.
I agree, something were probably planned to be there but cut due to cost at the last minute. Otherwise 4 out of 5 people (so far) wouldn't have those two holes from factory.
My guess is those with holes were produced earlier and for later totans they simply stopped drilling them.
Paris
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I agree, something were probably planned to be there but cut due to cost at the last minute. Otherwise 4 out of 5 people (so far) wouldn't have those two holes from factory.
My guess is those with holes were produced earlier and for later totans they simply stopped drilling them.
Mine has the holes too.
Here is a picture of a prototype and nothing was there. Should have been something planned really early and they order a first batch with holes in there predrilled.
FEBF11F7-1DEF-4D08-96B2-76BE2173162D (resized).jpegI dismantled the spinning lamp assembly today while cleaning and realized that the genie lamp (including the round orange plastic base) is a bit loose and can "tilt" about 2 mm on two sides. The rod that's rotating the lamp is fastened (pressed?) to the bracket and there is my problem as it's not a 100% stiff connection.
I'm talking about this part: aaa (resized).jpg
My guess is this T shaped part should have zero slack but I want to verify this before I ask a friend to spot weld it for me.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:I dismantled the spinning lamp assembly today while cleaning and realized that the genie lamp (including the round orange plastic base) is a bit loose and can "tilt" about 2 mm on two sides. The rod that's rotating the lamp is fastened (pressed?) to the bracket and there is my problem as it's not a 100% stiff connection.
I'm talking about this part: [quoted image]
My guess is this T shaped part should have zero slack but I want to verify this before I ask a friend to spot weld it for me.
Correct. It should be solid with no play. Welding it should work. Marco may still have replacements if you get in a jam. On the bright side, those two bulbs under the disk will finally get replaced!! Also, PPS has several colors of replacement spinning disks, if the RED one no longer suites your taste!
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Just finished a playfield swap.
I've got detailed pics of hex posts lengths if anyone needs them.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks really great!
Are you missing the snake plastic on the skillshot assembly or just hard to see it on that picture?
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Looks really great!
Are you missing the snake plastic on the skillshot assembly or just hard to see it on that picture?
I lost the damn thing! I have since found it.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Just finished a playfield swap.
I've got detailed pics of hex posts lengths if anyone needs them.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Just finished a playfield swap.
I've got detailed pics of hex posts lengths if anyone needs them.
[quoted image][quoted image]
That's a beautiful playfield.
Quoted from jazc4:I could use that and any other reference pics if you don't mind.
Here ya go.
010 (resized).JPG011 (resized).JPG012 (resized).JPG013 (resized).JPG014 (resized).JPG015 (resized).JPG016 (resized).JPG017 (resized).JPG018 (resized).JPG019 (resized).JPG020 (resized).JPG021 (resized).JPG022 (resized).JPG023 (resized).JPGQuoted from Bryan_Kelly:Here ya go.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
1 week later
Brian Allen knocked it out of the park again with his art work for TOTAN! I didn’t even have to change the leds from the original translite. Looks amazing! Another Allentown Pinfest pick up!
I also added that mean genie Saleem Bagazi shooter rod! Next up install the side blade art from Brian and finish off getting the armor plated. Such an awesome pin.
Added the brass legs and bolts I picked up at Allentown as well. Such an amazing game one of the few I'll never sell!
52894658607_19dcc3ae27_o (resized).jpg52895396049_d8b8696bb5_o (resized).jpg52895396059_ab9b21e95e_o (resized).jpg52895396159_95f285cc81_o (resized).jpg52895396169_6bc76c0f2d_o (resized).jpg52895618025_c645ba383e_o (resized).jpg52895618045_323644244e_o (resized).jpg52895680343_7e90d9b549_o (resized).jpgI have a beautiful first run CPR screened playfield that has been recleared and cured. I also have an NOS translite that was frame prior to my purchase. I had intentions of a scratch build, but just too many game specific parts. $950 on the playfield and $125 on the translite.
IMG_0837 (resized).jpegIMG_0838 (resized).jpegIMG_0839 (resized).jpegIMG_0840 (resized).jpegIMG_0841 (resized).jpegIMG_0842 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Just went through a complete teardown of a newly bought totan and now when finished the ball launch is wonky. When I launch the ball it doesn't balance on the middle plastic but almost fall down to the right, loosing lots of power while traveling upwards the skillshot and I can't get further than the first switch.
I only played a ball or two after buying it and I'm not 100% sure but I think it wasn't like this before teardown.
The ball shooter spring is the correct one.
It feels like I need to have the right metal scimitar "wall" more to the left and probably need to bend the metal a bit to get that. Would love to see how other people's launch area look like before doing anything though.
This is mine. As you can see the gap on the right is larger than to the left. The middle plastic fits correctly into the groove in the metal assembly up top.
Edit: looking at other people's pictures I found it seem many have the same larger gap on the right side just as me. Is the ball supposed to roll on the middle plastic while leaning against the left plastic when going up? If so, my problem might be with my shooter rod not hitting straight on the middle of the ball. My rubber tip hits the ball more on its right side.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Just went through a complete teardown of a newly bought totan and now when finished the ball launch is wonky. When I launch the ball it doesn't balance on the middle plastic but almost fall down to the right, loosing lots of power while traveling upwards the skillshot and I can't get further than the first switch.
I only played a ball or two after buying it and I'm not 100% sure but I think it wasn't like this before teardown.
The ball shooter spring is the correct one.
It feels like I need to have the right metal scimitar "wall" more to the left and probably need to bend the metal a bit to get that. Would love to see how other people's launch area look like before doing anything though.
This is mine. As you can see the gap on the right is larger than to the left. The middle plastic fits correctly into the groove in the metal assembly up top.
[quoted image]
Edit: looking at other people's pictures I found it seem many have the same larger gap on the right side just as me. Is the ball supposed to roll on the middle plastic while leaning against the left plastic when going up? If so, my problem might be with my shooter rod not hitting straight on the middle of the ball. My rubber tip hits the ball more on its right side.
Yes probably the shooter rod needing alignment. Yours looks the same as mine in the lane
IMG_3939 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Just went through a complete teardown of a newly bought totan and now when finished the ball launch is wonky. When I launch the ball it doesn't balance on the middle plastic but almost fall down to the right, loosing lots of power while traveling upwards the skillshot and I can't get further than the first switch.
I only played a ball or two after buying it and I'm not 100% sure but I think it wasn't like this before teardown.
The ball shooter spring is the correct one.
It feels like I need to have the right metal scimitar "wall" more to the left and probably need to bend the metal a bit to get that. Would love to see how other people's launch area look like before doing anything though.
This is mine. As you can see the gap on the right is larger than to the left. The middle plastic fits correctly into the groove in the metal assembly up top.
[quoted image]
Edit: looking at other people's pictures I found it seem many have the same larger gap on the right side just as me. Is the ball supposed to roll on the middle plastic while leaning against the left plastic when going up? If so, my problem might be with my shooter rod not hitting straight on the middle of the ball. My rubber tip hits the ball more on its right side.
I never really understood their logic with the shooter lane trough at one horizontal location, the scimitar a little off center to the left, and the skill shot targets even farther off center. Seems like all three should have been lined up and centered in the same straight path. But as you found, your playfield is correct as they designed it.
That said, check the mounting bracket for the Scimitar under the playfield. It could be slightly bent which would change the top of it where the ball rolls pretty dramatically. You could try to bend it slight back if that is the case. (That plastic usually gets pretty dirty, dark over time and should be cleaned or you might be able to find the replacement part as I did 3-4 years ago.)
I made new posts of of 1/4" stainless hex for mine...but I changed the lengths of the body and the threads to accommodate the use of washers above and below the plastic ramps. If you try to add washers without adding thread length and reducing body length, you change the height of the ramps and there usually isn't room enough to engage the nyloc nuts.
Brian Allen (FlyLand Designs) inside cabinet art installed today. Really ties in the playfield nice. Of course now you guys hexed my machine the balls are not launching as good!
52912121542_0b7057cae0_o (resized).jpg52912121587_3c6a197c18_o (resized).jpg52912121612_dd6a605d07_o (resized).jpg52912121617_c99f22000a_o (resized).jpg52912697921_c84972c5c2_o(1) (resized).jpg52912851709_a755cf0731_o (resized).jpg52912852044_a1fd07c043_o (resized).jpg52913083960_d51bdebf44_o (resized).jpg52913083985_23a489fd3b_o (resized).jpgQuoted from PhillyArcade:Brian Allen (FlyLand Designs) inside cabinet art installed today. Really ties in the playfield nice. Of course now you guys hexed my machine the balls are not launching as good!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great
Quoted from GregCon:I made new posts of of 1/4" stainless hex for mine...but I changed the lengths of the body and the threads to accommodate the use of washers above and below the plastic ramps. If you try to add washers without adding thread length and reducing body length, you change the height of the ramps and there usually isn't room enough to engage the nyloc nuts.
For future reference, Hillman makes a 6-32 nylon lock washer that is shorter the standard Stern shipped nuts. The difference allows the nylon locking to engage a couple of thread turns quicker. Perfect when adding protectors and washers to plastics. I can get at ACE hardware.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:Just went through a complete teardown of a newly bought totan and now when finished the ball launch is wonky. When I launch the ball it doesn't balance on the middle plastic but almost fall down to the right, loosing lots of power while traveling upwards the skillshot and I can't get further than the first switch.
I only played a ball or two after buying it and I'm not 100% sure but I think it wasn't like this before teardown.
The ball shooter spring is the correct one.
It feels like I need to have the right metal scimitar "wall" more to the left and probably need to bend the metal a bit to get that. Would love to see how other people's launch area look like before doing anything though.
This is mine. As you can see the gap on the right is larger than to the left. The middle plastic fits correctly into the groove in the metal assembly up top.
[quoted image]
Edit: looking at other people's pictures I found it seem many have the same larger gap on the right side just as me. Is the ball supposed to roll on the middle plastic while leaning against the left plastic when going up? If so, my problem might be with my shooter rod not hitting straight on the middle of the ball. My rubber tip hits the ball more on its right side.
Update: I adjusted the shooter assy so it hits the ball in the center and now I can hit all three skillshots consistently.
My skillshot assembly is directly against the inside of the cabinet. I've bought Flylands sideart and want to add it but I'm afraid it will be scratched immediately.
Thinking of adding one thin strip of fabric to the assemblys outer side using glue, anyone done something similar?
I've tried to remove the assembly and mount it back while pressing it away from the cab while tightening the screws to the hex posts below but it didn't help. Is it supposed to sit this close against the cabinet or do you have a few millimeters of air between?
The two larger hex posts below were actually not straight 90 degrees up for me so I've mounted them leaning slightly inwards but the assembly itself still rests against the cabinet.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:My skillshot assembly is directly against the inside of the cabinet. I've bought Flylands sideart and want to add it but I'm afraid it will be scratched immediately.
Thinking of adding one thin strip of fabric to the assemblys outer side using glue, anyone done something similar?
I've tried to remove the assembly and mount it back while pressing it away from the cab while tightening the screws to the hex posts below but it didn't help. Is it supposed to sit this close against the cabinet or do you have a few millimeters of air between?
The two larger hex posts below were actually not straight 90 degrees up for me so I've mounted them leaning slightly inwards but the assembly itself still rests against the cabinet.
You could buy these
image (resized).jpgSo, about 50% of the time the ball roll past the cage area and into the outlane before the actual cage deploys up and ofc misses the ball.
Playfield is cleaned and waxed so guess the balls roll past the opto sensors pretty fast. Is there some kind of adjustment (software or mechanical) that can be made to remedy this behavior?
All optos have already been cleaned.
To clarify, the cages seem to deploy when they should, just that it's often too late.
Quoted from Tiltbob:You could buy these[quoted image]
Yes, the last two used games I bought had torn art blades which could have easily been avoided if these protectors were used when raising the playfield. I use them every time, even on games without graphics so the paint doesn't get scratched...I highly recommend them, especially for these beautiful Flyland Designs blades!
figure I should put these here too... Louis Koziarz shared a bunch of stuff about Totan. archived at http://pinballnovice.blogspot.com/2023/03/louis-koziarz-pinball-files-tales-of.html
All comments below are from the Louis Koziarz toots.
pasted_image (resized).png
First whitewood. See if you can spot all the changes from the final version. The actual playfield shot geometry didn't change at all, but the ramps did.
Note the "open sesame" cave that was trying to have two positions (partially open and fully open). And the vanishing magnet was on that small standup off the left ramp. The mech is awesome, but not in that position. Capturing the ball was impossible
pasted_image (resized).png
The cover letter CCs Ken Fedesna (WMS VP) saying "Popadiuk really wants this title - but is it worth the trouble?"
pasted_image (resized).png
Another photo of XY1, but with the handmade lamp in place and the left ramp being rethought with the Bong magnetic diverter. (Fireball is a whole story coming soon) You can see the GENIE spellout used to open the cave. The lamp icons on the smoke trail were from an early rule idea.
All my notes reference XY1, XY2, etc which was the internal notation for a whitewood ("XY" meaning an AutoCAD layout being loaded into a CAM drilling machine on plywood).
pasted_image (resized).png
Here's the original development schedule. Jim Patla, a legend in his own right, was our engineering manager and tracked multiple pinball projects while herding all the cats from start to finish. Really an unsung hero in the 90's W/B era. I believe American coaxed him out of retirement to help do it all again.
pasted_image (resized).png
Time for some art. I always thought McMahon did great stuff but he pushed his boundaries for Arabian and it's insanely good.
pasted_image (resized).png
Secrets in the keyline.
pasted_image (resized).png
Joe Joos was a mechanical engineer at Williams Pinball that passed away shortly before TOTAN began development. The entire department missed him dearly.
pasted_image (resized).png
Dimira.
pasted_image (resized).png
Tiger Lock art. I wanna say that Pat McMahon stole this art from Pinball Circus but I can't be sure. Might have been the speaker cutout / coaster art. Maybe...Python drew it?
pasted_image (resized).png
The artists upstairs at WMS were always working under the gun and turned out amazing stuff out of nowhere in short spans of time. But all good artists steal. The woman on the TOTAN Pinball backglass? That's Stephanie Seymour, lifted from either a Playboy magazine or something similar.
pasted_image (resized).png
One more TOTAN Pinball photo for now: The portrait of a young developer at his desk, looking happy to have a working whitewood and door that can close. Probably fall 1995. That's a beefy Pentium 90 and 20" CRT on my desk. Still took 15-30 minutes to assemble the code. WPC-95 prototype boards (red) in the backbox.
pasted_image (resized).png
One more TOTAN Pinball art piece I found: alternate idea for the back box side with a cool cobra on it.
pasted_image (resized).png
The actual art is modeled off of Jpop's wife.
pasted_image (resized).png
TOTAN Pinball, unused art by Pat McMahon. Ink on vellum.
pasted_image (resized).png
Someone saw the TOTAN Pinball prototype one morning and left this taped to the cabinet. Pretty sure that's Dwight Sullivan's head.
pasted_image (resized).png
TOTAN Pinball, backglass concept art by Pat McMahon.
Quoted from cait001:figure I should put these here too... Louis Koziarz shared a bunch of stuff about Totan. archived at http://pinballnovice.blogspot.com/2023/03/louis-koziarz-pinball-files-tales-of.html
All comments below are from the Louis Koziarz toots.
[quoted image]
First whitewood. See if you can spot all the changes from the final version. The actual playfield shot geometry didn't change at all, but the ramps did.
Note the "open sesame" cave that was trying to have two positions (partially open and fully open). And the vanishing magnet was on that small standup off the left ramp. The mech is awesome, but not in that position. Capturing the ball was impossible
[quoted image]
The cover letter CCs Ken Fedesna (WMS VP) saying "Popadiuk really wants this title - but is it worth the trouble?"
[quoted image]
Another photo of XY1, but with the handmade lamp in place and the left ramp being rethought with the Bong magnetic diverter. (Fireball is a whole story coming soon) You can see the GENIE spellout used to open the cave. The lamp icons on the smoke trail were from an early rule idea.
All my notes reference XY1, XY2, etc which was the internal notation for a whitewood ("XY" meaning an AutoCAD layout being loaded into a CAM drilling machine on plywood).
[quoted image]
Here's the original development schedule. Jim Patla, a legend in his own right, was our engineering manager and tracked multiple pinball projects while herding all the cats from start to finish. Really an unsung hero in the 90's W/B era. I believe American coaxed him out of retirement to help do it all again.
[quoted image]
Time for some art. I always thought McMahon did great stuff but he pushed his boundaries for Arabian and it's insanely good.
[quoted image]
Secrets in the keyline.
[quoted image]
Joe Joos was a mechanical engineer at Williams Pinball that passed away shortly before TOTAN began development. The entire department missed him dearly.
[quoted image]
Dimira.
[quoted image]
Tiger Lock art. I wanna say that Pat McMahon stole this art from Pinball Circus but I can't be sure. Might have been the speaker cutout / coaster art. Maybe...Python drew it?
[quoted image]
The artists upstairs at WMS were always working under the gun and turned out amazing stuff out of nowhere in short spans of time. But all good artists steal. The woman on the TOTAN Pinball backglass? That's Stephanie Seymour, lifted from either a Playboy magazine or something similar.
[quoted image]
One more TOTAN Pinball photo for now: The portrait of a young developer at his desk, looking happy to have a working whitewood and door that can close. Probably fall 1995. That's a beefy Pentium 90 and 20" CRT on my desk. Still took 15-30 minutes to assemble the code. WPC-95 prototype boards (red) in the backbox.
[quoted image]
One more TOTAN Pinball art piece I found: alternate idea for the back box side with a cool cobra on it.
[quoted image]
The actual art is modeled off of Jpop's wife.
[quoted image]
TOTAN Pinball, unused art by Pat McMahon. Ink on vellum.
[quoted image]
Someone saw the TOTAN Pinball prototype one morning and left this taped to the cabinet. Pretty sure that's Dwight Sullivan's head.
[quoted image]
TOTAN Pinball, backglass concept art by Pat McMahon.
Quoted from cait001:figure I should put these here too... Louis Koziarz shared a bunch of stuff about Totan. archived at http://pinballnovice.blogspot.com/2023/03/louis-koziarz-pinball-files-tales-of.html
All comments below are from the Louis Koziarz toots.
[quoted image]
First whitewood. See if you can spot all the changes from the final version. The actual playfield shot geometry didn't change at all, but the ramps did.
Note the "open sesame" cave that was trying to have two positions (partially open and fully open). And the vanishing magnet was on that small standup off the left ramp. The mech is awesome, but not in that position. Capturing the ball was impossible
[quoted image]
The cover letter CCs Ken Fedesna (WMS VP) saying "Popadiuk really wants this title - but is it worth the trouble?"
[quoted image]
Another photo of XY1, but with the handmade lamp in place and the left ramp being rethought with the Bong magnetic diverter. (Fireball is a whole story coming soon) You can see the GENIE spellout used to open the cave. The lamp icons on the smoke trail were from an early rule idea.
All my notes reference XY1, XY2, etc which was the internal notation for a whitewood ("XY" meaning an AutoCAD layout being loaded into a CAM drilling machine on plywood).
[quoted image]
Here's the original development schedule. Jim Patla, a legend in his own right, was our engineering manager and tracked multiple pinball projects while herding all the cats from start to finish. Really an unsung hero in the 90's W/B era. I believe American coaxed him out of retirement to help do it all again.
[quoted image]
Time for some art. I always thought McMahon did great stuff but he pushed his boundaries for Arabian and it's insanely good.
[quoted image]
Secrets in the keyline.
[quoted image]
Joe Joos was a mechanical engineer at Williams Pinball that passed away shortly before TOTAN began development. The entire department missed him dearly.
[quoted image]
Dimira.
[quoted image]
Tiger Lock art. I wanna say that Pat McMahon stole this art from Pinball Circus but I can't be sure. Might have been the speaker cutout / coaster art. Maybe...Python drew it?
[quoted image]
The artists upstairs at WMS were always working under the gun and turned out amazing stuff out of nowhere in short spans of time. But all good artists steal. The woman on the TOTAN Pinball backglass? That's Stephanie Seymour, lifted from either a Playboy magazine or something similar.
[quoted image]
One more TOTAN Pinball photo for now: The portrait of a young developer at his desk, looking happy to have a working whitewood and door that can close. Probably fall 1995. That's a beefy Pentium 90 and 20" CRT on my desk. Still took 15-30 minutes to assemble the code. WPC-95 prototype boards (red) in the backbox.
[quoted image]
One more TOTAN Pinball art piece I found: alternate idea for the back box side with a cool cobra on it.
[quoted image]
The actual art is modeled off of Jpop's wife.
[quoted image]
TOTAN Pinball, unused art by Pat McMahon. Ink on vellum.
[quoted image]
Someone saw the TOTAN Pinball prototype one morning and left this taped to the cabinet. Pretty sure that's Dwight Sullivan's head.
[quoted image]
TOTAN Pinball, backglass concept art by Pat McMahon.
Very interesting, love history bits like this 
Got tired of balls bouncing off the skill shot onto the play field, so I made a deflector. I know this has been done before, but I don't think they are being made presently. Also mine is simply a friction fit so no drilling, brackets or other modifications to the game are necessary. Seems to work quite well.
PXL_20230524_164527867 (resized).jpgPXL_20230524_164545693 (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
Was cleaning out the shop yesterday and found what appears to be and NOS translite or one in very good condition. $100 fair? I have no idea.
IMG_0951 (resized).jpeg 3 weeks later
I was looking at a friends TOTAN that prompted me to Check Errors. It showed "Check Inlane Left 26, Inlane Right 17 switches. I went into the switch test and pressed on the left rollover three times, nothing, but on the forth it would register after that. Same on the right side. I rebooted the machine and right back to the same issue. Any ideas of what this is about? - Tom
Quoted from tcw16505:I was looking at a friends TOTAN that prompted me to Check Errors. It showed "Check Inlane Left 26, Inlane Right 17 switches. I went into the switch test and pressed on the left rollover three times, nothing, but on the forth it would register after that. Same on the right side. I rebooted the machine and right back to the same issue. Any ideas of what this is about? - Tom
Is it always registering on exactly the FOURTH press, on the left and right rollovers?
Quoted from tcw16505:I was looking at a friends TOTAN that prompted me to Check Errors. It showed "Check Inlane Left 26, Inlane Right 17 switches. I went into the switch test and pressed on the left rollover three times, nothing, but on the forth it would register after that. Same on the right side. I rebooted the machine and right back to the same issue. Any ideas of what this is about? - Tom
WPC-95 games had known issues with flux getting into the switches and gumming them up.
Just replace them or they'll drive you insane.
1 week later
Ok, trying to figure out the details of Scheherazade mode. When you start the mode, she appears on the DMD with a countdown (I believe 24 seconds). All 5 of the amber/yellow inserts are flashing. My understanding is you need to hit all 5 before the countdown ends for some kind of bonus.
What I don’t understand are a couple of things.
1. When you hit each flashing light, they all have a different callout that you hear but can’t make out what each one is. Anybody know? (I’m gonna try and listen carefully and translate)
2. As you hit each shot, they keep flashing. So other than by memory, I’m not sure how you keep track of each shot and know when they are completed. Would be nice if they were marked solid after each shot was completed
3. When the countdown ends, as long as you make at least one shot it will direct you to shoot the ramp to complete the mode. If you hit all 5 shots does that give you a bonus or do you need all 5 shots plus the ramp before the countdown ends?
4. What is the bonus for getting all 5 shots before the countdown ends?
Anyway, it just seems like I’ve got all 5 shots before but didn’t notice any payoff. If anybody can shed any light on this, would be much appreciated. The rule set doesn’t tell you much of anything
IMG_0512 (resized).jpegIMG_0513 (resized).jpegAfter further investigation, I noticed each amber lit insert has a symbol on it (ie the ramp has a Star) when you hit that shot you can clearly hear the cal out “Star”. The 5 symbols are Sun, Moon, Star, Sword, Lightning Bolt. When you hit each shot, it marks it on the blue smoke inserts by flashing each symbol after the shot is made.
IMG_0519 (resized).jpegIMG_0520 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0518 (resized).jpegQuoted from TopMoose:Scheherazade is the only timed mode. If you can hit all five Golden Symbol shots and collect the jewel in 40(?) seconds, you can earn a 1M point bonus. If the timer runs out before all five shots are completed, the ramp will light and you can collect the jewel for whatever value you accumulated.
Hey Moose, curious on how you figured this out. It doesn’t appear to be written anywhere including the rules. Does it pop up “1 MIL” bonus on the screen after completing?
Quoted from thechakapakuni2:Hey Moose, curious on how you figured this out. It doesn’t appear to be written anywhere including the rules. Does it pop up “1 MIL” bonus on the screen after completing?
I just figured it out after playing a lot - it is a bit confusing at first, since the game doesn’t make it obvious. I can’t recall what the on-screen graphic is, but the game should give you a little ascending fanfare when you get the Scheherazade bonus.
Quoted from TopMoose:Correct. After you hit the first shot, you can cash out and collect the jewel (hence the ramp lighting). The best strategy, if you’re going for the 1M bonus, is to hit the ramp last. This will count as the “star” shot and collect the jewel at the same time. Or you can hit the ramp first, then the other four shots and then the ramp again to collect, but that’s one more shot to make in 40 seconds.
During the mode, you can hit the same shots over and over, to increase the jewel value, even though that doesn’t help you towards the bonus. That’s why the golden symbol lights don’t stop flashing until the timer runs out.
You’ll notice that when you hit one of the shots, the Genie names a symbol associated with that shot. From left to right it’s Sun, Moon, Star, Daggar and Lightning Bolt. You can see each of those symbols in the artwork on each golden symbol insert. You’ll also see those same symbols on the blue bonus inserts in the same order, from bottom to top. During the mode, when you hit a shot, its corresponding symbol on the bonus ladder will start flashing, which is how you keep track of the shots you need.
When you do complete the mode within the time limit, you’ll hear a short trumpet fanfare and the DMD will show “1 Million Bonus!” (Or something similar, it’s been a while for me). It’s very quick and sometimes doesn’t show at all if a higher-priority graphic comes up.
Here’s a previous post, outlining details about Scheherazade mode.
The bonus fanfare is the same one you get when you hit the Tiger Loops award.
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