(Topic ID: 97143)
Linked Games
Tales of the Arabian Nights
Williams, 1996
Topic Gallery
Walnut Creek, CA
Quoted from Markharris2000:I tore down a Totan last year to replace the ramps. Replacing the ramps takes some real patience, but replacing the scoop is easy. Remember that the coil part of the scoop assembly is a separate bracket piece from the scoop itself. Take some close-up pictures of the two brackets fitted together before you remove it. Also, when you re-assemble, you may need to reposition the coil bracket otherwise the ball may eject crooked and come out of the scoop SDTM.
I bought a backup scoop from Markharris2000 a year or so ago and replaced mine that I couldn’t get right. I tried bending the hood and everything else. I replaced it (pretty straightforward) and it delivers the ball to my right flipper every time.
Quoted from Soulrider911:A peek of a spire I am making for some modifications to my topper
[quoted image]
Excited to see the rest of this!
Working on the rubbers and clear star posts first. Very easy. The original manual says 2" bands, but some kits say 2 1/2". I went with 2 1/2" and they fit nice and are pretty much the same as the ones I took off.
The clear posts look nice and the purple rubbers match shockingly well to the game.
Clear plastic protectors going on as well. The weird (stupid) right inlane ramp drop already hits the plastic and the protector and icks out a bit farther. I moved it over as far as I could. Very dumb design flaw they could have avoided.
20220131_232134 (resized).jpg20220131_232151 (resized).jpg20220131_232913 (resized).jpg20220131_232924 (resized).jpg20220131_232947 (resized).jpg20220131_233003 (resized).jpg20220131_233019 (resized).jpg20220131_233501 (resized).jpg20220201_000827 (resized).jpgMoving up the left of the pf to the larger plastic. Lots of screws holding it on but surprisingly easy to take off. Just be sure to "bag n tag" all of the screws and nuts! Great chance to wipe it down as well as get up in the orbit now that the plastic isn't in the way.
So, that plastic covers the captured ball so probably the only time ever that spot had been cleaned and wipes down.
Of note, some of the star posts' posts are actually screws, while others are threaded posts. Be careful not to let the screws bend from rubber tension and rip up the playfield.
I'm going to leave the plastics off I think and do a final wipe-wax-wipe before reinstalling them.
20220201_000803 (resized).jpg20220201_000809 (resized).jpg20220201_000815 (resized).jpg20220201_000844 (resized).jpgReceived this game with this plastic broken. My buddy told me it's so common bc the scoop hits it. Made sense.
Upon inspection the scoop had actually snapped at the tab holding it together.
A phone call, good conversation, and $20 later a local guy did a great job welding it back together.
Now I can install it and the NOS plastic with the protector on and be confident it won't break again. At least for another 15 years or so...
20220202_000635 (resized).jpg20220202_000645 (resized).jpg20220202_000709 (resized).jpg20220202_000741 (resized).jpgQuoted from Ecw0930:some kits say 2 1/2". I went with 2 1/2" and they fit nice
I do the same thing on mine, if 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 fit snug and have good tension, no reason to put 2” rubber on too tight and cause phantom hits. TOTAN is a fun game to customize, with so much color. My slings are yellow with purple posts lit with star post LEDs. The purple with clear posts looks great.
DE9283D3-28C5-4C28-8BB9-D9309A57565E (resized).pngQuoted from Pinkitten:I do the same thing on mine, if 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 fit snug and have good tension, no reason to put 2” rubber on too tight and cause phantom hits. TOTAN is a fun game to customize, with so much color. My slings are yellow with purple posts lit with star post LEDs. The purple with clear posts looks great.
[quoted image]
I was (am) considering lighting the star posts. Now that they are clear it might look really good. or, it might be TOO MUCH since they are clear...
I decided to go without them for now and see how I like them.
I also put pop bumper ringlights in and turned them all the way down. This way the glow purple instead of blast white light brightly.
I'm enjoying restomodding this for sure!
Some pics of the tear down. Astonished what good shape it's in. Not even ball trails on there. Nice to get into area and clean maybe for the first time ever and give it some wax and love. Actually got the entire ramp system off. Nervous about putting everything back together correctly.
20220204_000005 (resized).jpg20220204_000040 (resized).jpg20220204_000052 (resized).jpg20220204_000103 (resized).jpg20220204_000132 (resized).jpg20220204_000152 (resized).jpg20220204_000158 (resized).jpg20220204_000211 (resized).jpg20220204_000607 (resized).jpgQuoted from Ecw0930:Some pics of the tear down. Astonished what good shape it's in. Not even ball trails on there. Nice to get into area and clean maybe for the first time ever and give it some wax and love. Actually got the entire ramp system off. Nervous about putting everything back together correctly.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Playfield looks nice
Also since I had the ramps off I waxed every millimeter of them. Top, bottom, rims, edges.
This machine was in a smoker's home so im trying to touch, clean, and wax everything I can.
The ramps came out pretty much crystal clear and was well worth it. Plus, waxing is a satisfying thing to do for me so it was enjoyable as well.
20220205_140035 (resized).jpg20220205_140054 (resized).jpg20220205_140109 (resized).jpg20220205_141400 (resized).jpg20220205_141421 (resized).jpg20220205_150231 (resized).jpgThe newly welded scoop is back in.
But.... The left side of it is too shallow and the back of it as well. I tried bending it but the genie lamp is in the way.
So it will have to be trial and error while pulling it out repeatedly to get it just right. I don't mind the work to get it perfect tho.
From the looks of things it will have to have the "lid" lifted and then shifted to the left.
20220205_185803 (resized).jpgQuoted from Green-Machine:Yeah it should look more like this
[quoted image]
Did your Genie just get out of the shower? 
I think I got the scoop to be 99.9% good. Hits the tip of the right flipper now.
Quoted from Ecw0930:Did your Genie just get out of the shower?
I think I got the scoop to be 99.9% good. Hits the tip of the right flipper now.
Lol yeah squeaky clean now 
I sold mine a couple years ago. Forgot I had a bunch of of parts.
I found this NOS lamp assembly way back when and never needed it.
Not available at Marco. When they had it, it came in parts and was $299
It'll be on eBay this afternoon if anybody is interested
Other things i found...
I also have a plastic set (the bag is open, take a look, make an offer)
I have a manual $35 and NOS genie (on ebay too) *edit Genie is spoken for
Also a used, but very nice lamp $40
And lastly a skillshot weldment $80
Extra keyfob and a replacement (3d printed I think ) plastic for by the ramp
IMG_8557 (resized).jpgIMG_8556 (resized).jpgIMG_8545 (resized).jpgIMG_8544 (resized).jpgIMG_8562 (resized).jpgIMG_8561 (resized).jpgIMG_8565 (resized).jpgScreen Shot 2022-02-06 at 1.57.00 PM (resized).png
Genie sold
I found some more TOTAN stuff !
Small Cliffy Set - not sure what those are going for - make offer
Unopened Goodie Bag - $30 shipped
Ball Guide Assembly / plastic stack - one broken piece (the tip of the purple piece -- make offer
Ball Guide Assembly Left and Right NOS - still in the bags - Planetary might have the left set for $25, can't find the right side. I want to sell as a pair
IMG_8736 (resized).jpgIMG_8737 (resized).jpgIMG_8761 (resized).jpgQuoted from MadMaxDad:I found some more TOTAN stuff !
Small Cliffy Set - not sure what those are going for - make offer
Unopened Goodie Bag - $30 shipped
Ball Guide Assembly / plastic stack - one broken piece (the tip of the purple piece -- make offer
Ball Guide Assembly Left and Right NOS - still in the bags - Planetary might have the left set for $25, can't find the right side. I want to sell as a pair
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice!
Last topper. This is a goodie, has RGB leds under the sword that create a fire effect, and has lit spires.
Well, i thought i had remedied my bazaar kick out, but played my TOTAN today (i don’t play it much) and it was kicking SDTM again… Does anyone have any tips on this… i swear I have tried slightly bending the scoop, shimming one of the feet, adjusting side to side… ?
If i hold the right flipper it can barely bump the ball upon exit of the scoop… but its def not optimal for realistic game play
I do have the mantis one not sure that matters?
Cheers
Quoted from Soulrider911:Well, i thought i had remedied my bazaar kick out, but played my TOTAN today (i don’t play it much) and it was kicking SDTM again… Does anyone have any tips on this… i swear I have tried slightly bending the scoop, shimming one of the feet, adjusting side to side… ?
If i hold the right flipper it can barely bump the ball upon exit of the scoop… but its def not optimal for realistic game play
I do have the mantis one not sure that matters?
Cheers
I ended up replacing mine, but my prior scoop did this and I found an easy temporary solution. I put some thick 2-sided tape on the underside of the scoop hood. The ball would make just enough contact on the tape to alter the kickout from SDTM to the right flipper. It’s easy and worth a try. It solved my problem for months. You just need the right thickness under there, so you might need to experiment with it.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Well, i thought i had remedied my bazaar kick out, but played my TOTAN today (i don’t play it much) and it was kicking SDTM again… Does anyone have any tips on this… i swear I have tried slightly bending the scoop, shimming one of the feet, adjusting side to side… ?
If i hold the right flipper it can barely bump the ball upon exit of the scoop… but its def not optimal for realistic game play
I do have the mantis one not sure that matters?
Cheers
Try taking a slo-mo video of the ball exit. You might see the ball bouncing off the left or right side towards the half-pipe section of the scoop. What I found is the coil brack and scoop bracket are two different assemblies, and the alignment between the two significant affects the ball motion. You may be able to adjust the exit by slightly moving the coil bracket, but will take some trial and error. The goal is to try and eliminate the ball from being launched into the wall of the scoop.
Quoted from MadMaxDad:I sold mine a while back - are these protectors for TOTAN ?
If so and somebody wants a set for $15 shipped, send me a note
[quoted image]
I don't think these are for TOTAN, not ringing a TOTAN bell!
I'll be the first to admit that spotlights in old games sometimes become an eye sore. However, I always felt the Genie was so dark, added a little warm led spot light for him
IMG_6564 (resized).jpg
Mounted on the plastic to the right of the lamp
You can see a before and after here:
Kapture 2022-02-19 at 16.37.16.gif
Quoted from Soulrider911:I'll be the first to admit that spotlights in old games sometimes become an eye sore. However, I always felt the Genie was so dark, added a little warm led spot light for him
[quoted image]
Mounted on the plastic to the right of the lamp
You can see a before and after here:
[quoted image]
I put a spotlight on him only blue. Looks great! Much needed. I also used a bit of a home remedy to keep the bulb in using a paperclip.
Can't even see the spotlight behind the lamp.
Also hooked one up to the inlane flasher for lightning and pointed it at the lamp. Great effect!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Well, i thought i had remedied my bazaar kick out, but played my TOTAN today (i don’t play it much) and it was kicking SDTM again… Does anyone have any tips on this… i swear I have tried slightly bending the scoop, shimming one of the feet, adjusting side to side… ?
If i hold the right flipper it can barely bump the ball upon exit of the scoop… but its def not optimal for realistic game play
I do have the mantis one not sure that matters?
Cheers
I had my Bazzar also doing SDTM for 3 months ( i needed to give a hit to the left each time to avoid it ) and after 3 months it no longer does the SDTM and i didn't modify anything... No idea what it made the direction change.
I ended up taking the scoop completely off this weekend and slotted the feet so I could rotate it… that in combination with some coil angle tweaking has solved the problem .
Amazing just how finicky those two contraptions are, and how much effect of has on the ball travel.
Over in the Baywatch Club, someone was having trouble with the right side kickout hole not launching the ball correctly and discovered that the ball was sitting weird when it fell in. The plunger was hitting the ball off center and causing problems when it shot out.
Maybe something like that is happening on TOTAN? They were able to create a thin shim for Baywatch and stuck it to the inside wall of the hole to narrow the space and ensure that the ball was getting hit correctly.
Left orbit was driving me crazy… the ball guide was not originally installed flush against the post and the ball was hitting the leading edge head on. No more…
Before
FD1E9C4D-2690-404A-9931-CB7C1B4261A2 (resized).jpeg
After - no more gap and wider opening
548A2A88-DF20-433A-A231-C08650890F7E (resized).jpeg
1 week later
Ooooh oooooh I’m getting a beautiful original TOTAN !!!
Should ship in a week or so but I may be away til mid April so there’s still time before I get to enjoy the latest addition. It’s got one of those playfield protectors so the pf is as fresh as can be. Can’t wait to cut it out and enjoy a gorgeous original playfield
56A600B0-7583-4115-9810-4769C7DEB015 (resized).jpegDoes anyone tried to create the left and right ramp in metal, i imagine that the cyclone part is hard to create in metal ( maybe ) but the parts that go down maybe would be easy to create in metal, what do you think?
tanks
1 week later
Hey TOTAN friends. I just came across a mod that evidentially - Mirco of all companies - is going to release with updated code and some sort of blue-stained doily for a speaker panel? They are calling it TOTAN 2.0 the lost tales. Wondering if anyone has heard of it?
I personally do not trust the Mirco brand any farther than I can throw one of their playfields, BUT new code sounds like a fun idea.
https://m.facebook.com/mircoplayfields/photos/a.1253209824756364/5015568461853796/?type=3
Quoted from Soulrider911:Hey TOTAN friends. I just came across a mod that evidentially Mirco of all companies, is going to ralease with updates code and … some sort of stained doily for a speaker panel? They are calling it TOTAN 2.0 the lost tales. Wondering if anyone has heard of it?
I personally do not trust the Mirco brand any farther than I can throw one of their playfields.
https://m.facebook.com/mircoplayfields/photos/a.1253209824756364/5015568461853796/?type=3
It's a great coding work that someone is doing for some years, you can see a bit of info here even if apparently there will be new updates:
congrats PinballGalore such an amazing game. Truly a special one to own. If you are in the market for a topper at some point let me know
2 weeks later
Totan used parts if anyone needs something let me know.
Left and right ramp should clean up fine. Center ramp has a small crack that could be repaired also.
All original plastics, speakers, speaker panel has a weird burn like mark on it by the display.
Driver board in the back not for sale.
20220330_095205 (resized).jpg 1 week later
For you consideration.
I finally got this to fit like a glove! I hated the skill shot light being so bright and ugly so I decided to do something about it.
It slides right over the existing metal. No tools, glue, or tape. It just barely clears the glass but it does.
It makes such a huge difference not only in the light not being in your eyes but also aesthetically and makes the light seem brighter on the skill shots targets.
Please let me know via private msg if you would be interested in one. I have a light purple filament that might look good and I could get gold if someone wanted to try that as well.
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Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Totan used parts if anyone needs something let me know.
Left and right ramp should clean up fine. Center ramp has a small crack that could be repaired also.
All original plastics, speakers, speaker panel has a weird burn like mark on it by the display.
Driver board in the back not for sale.
[quoted image]
Is this still available?
Quoted from Days:Hello, rarely i can go to the far snake chest, i changed the springs, the tube, but still very hard to send to the upper one. Does anyone have some solutions? thanks.
[quoted image]
I had the same problem when I got my machine. Found that my shooter rod was not the one called for. I ordered the exact one called for in the parts manual and when it arrived I compared it to the one that was in my machine when I bought it. The new one was longer by about 1/8th inch and that was all it took.
Quoted from Robotron2084:I had the same problem when I got my machine. Found that my shooter rod was not the one called for. I ordered the exact one called for in the parts manual and when it arrived I compared it to the one that was in my machine when I bought it. The new one was longer by about 1/8th inch and that was all it took.
hoo thanks! I Already ordered 2 but they seem to be all the same size. Do you remenber the reference? thanks
( i will try to add some extra lenght with some hard plastic on the tip of mine and then cover with the usual cover plastic.
Quoted from Days:hoo thanks! I Already ordered 2 but they seem to be all the same size. Do you remenber the reference? thanks
( i will try to add some extra lenght with some hard plastic on the tip of mine and then cover with the usual cover plastic.
The number was 20-9927-1. That is what the manual is calling for. I ordered mine from Marco for $19.99 but they show out of stock at the moment. I always go to the game manual and order the exact parts called for when something is not acting right. The power spring is 10-148-3. Hard telling what got put on a game over its life and why. Sometimes a few millimeters difference in parts is all it takes to throw something off. It might kind of work but not like it was supposed to.
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