Borrowing and rehabing a TOTAN for one of my friends.

The only things I can tell that need help are

- vanishing magnet broken. But from what I can tell/have read it seems to be a non issue issue that is almost permanent. Any help there?

- lock coil issue. So the upkick in the lock hole gets stuck in the up position. Only hurts the game when you get a genie multi ball. With the post UP it won't allow the next ball to fall in the hole. We think it's a mech/coil issue. Anyone ever had to deal with this?

- he gave me an entire led kit and rubber kit so if I get a wild hair I can replace them all. Any tips and pointers in this undertaking? I see the backglass is not normal but I think you take the light housing odd by removing the trim?

Hope to get some help and learn alot about this game along the way. Will post pictures soon.

Thanks everyone.

Did a quick search and can't find anything. But I'm new to this forum and don't know who to go to so I'll post it here.

I was replacing bulbs and put the game back together. First game the genie doesn't work. Nothing about the genie works. Some of the stand up targets also don't work, and the right ramp entry. They are all on the same column of switches. But some of that column's switches DO work.

Anyone ever experience a lame Genie? I can't even tell how it works. There is nothing under the PF and I can't get to him without removing ramps. I would like to know what I'm looking for and at before I go tearing it apart. Is it optos that make him register when he gets hit? It looks like it's a giant leaf switch that hits the metal bracket. But I've never seen anything like it.

I can't find any loose/broken wires and a reseated the one plug that seems to go directly to the Genie.

Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

Maybe try Googling it adding the word pinside to your search. I’ve found that it works much better than using the pinside search option. Hope this helps!

There should be a couple large stand up targets directly behind and at the base of genie. He simply pivots back when struck by a ball and triggers the switch. Check those switches in test mode and see if they register. There should be some discussions about the drop magnet mech in this forum history and people here can help with suggestions.

If the switches are on the same column, then your problem is likely a column wire. Just to exhaust the troubleshooting, take the genie skin off. It's pretty easy, One screw (and a washer) on the back just below his neck. Don't drop the screw or washer. Then the genie vinyl will slide off upward if you are careful. You will see that there are two stand-up style targets mounted upside down on the genie mechanism. Make sure none of the wires have been disconnected. While you are there, replace the bulb in the genie's head. You put the skin on the same way you took it off, but it takes some finese to get it back on and align the mounting hole.

Selling/Trading my Totan and I need to fix one thing but need help...on the skill shot ramp there are the little brass scrolled lips to each of the skill shot holes.....one of mie has come out. I cant tell if they were welded originally or there is another way to re secure it to the ramp?

That entire bracket has been easy to come by at the parts suppliers. PPS has them for about $60 and in stock right now. MARCO IS ABOUT $25 more and also in stock. The metal was welded originally, some repro makers spot welding.

I suddenly lost my right sling, it wouldn’t fire with either switch triggered. One look at the original switch and I figured that was the problem, and both switches are daisy chained, so with one down, they both were. Replaced it and moved the diode to the new switch, works perfectly again. Nice when it works out.

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Found the culprit.

After the world's worst solder job everything is back to working.

There are some intermittent issues with connectivity. I replaced the batteries (still AA) and the lock upkixk seems to do better now. However there are times when the dmd seems to be on the fritz. Like there's a connection problem.

I enjoy working on it so far. The LED's make a big difference. Need to get the new bumper lights in as well as the back of lights and BAZAAR lights.

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How did you do this? That stupid light is right in your face and super annoying. This is much much better.

Please advise! Thanks!

Anyone have an extra TOTAN playfield they are willing to sell? Any condition considered. Thanks.

CPR has the TOTAN in their short runs available. 899

Thanks!

Anyone have for sale or know where I can find the part "Guide Assembly # A-20694"? It's the sword shaped part that the ball rolls up after initial ball launch. This was the only picture I could find.

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Is yours missing or just damaged/discolored? The reason I ask is it would be easy to replace the plastic part if you still have the metal mounting portion. Upkick or any plastic maker can cut a new part if you have the old one as a guide. If not, someone might be willing to remove theirs and TRACE the outline for you to have it manufactured, and you'll have to improvise on a metal angle bracket. (Just a few wood screws under the playfield if I rememeber correctly when I took mine out for cleaning a few years back).

https://pinbits2.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_22&products_id=258

Pinbits has it

Is Pinbits in biz? Weren’t they AWOL for the past year or so? I ordered orange plastic protectors from Pinbits for my White Water and never received anything.

That’s what I heard. They had stopped filling orders, but the website seems to have been updated recently. I would drop Pam an email before you sent any money…

I tried emailing pam and email no longer valid. Completely sucks. They were great and had great products. I really wish someone would have taken there business over.

The hunt continues. Any thoughts on finding an apron? Maybe a different game used the same size one? One of the few parts that I'm not sure I'll find.

Also, Pinbits website will still let you order it looks like. But I will call instead and see if I can get through for the ball launching plastic.

I might have an apron - I will check tomorrow

Yeah that s

I have my old one somewhere but it will need to be restored.

Can we put a shaker in TOTAN and it is included in the code?

TOTAN code does not include direct support, but a $250 pinshaker will do the job. Basically the pinshaker triggers off of all your flashers and coils. You chose what each trigger does. Takes some setup, but will add some feel. I could see the lightning flasher being a great source of trigger, as well as the outholes and the star captures. You can choose with pinshaker.

Thank you!

That's a really cool idea. Completely custom shaker.

Yeah the lamp would be a no brainer and the best trigger. The genie most definitely. Shooting stars. Probably the orbs as well. The disappearing/multiball magnet.

Definitely a lot to work off of. But dayumn. $250 AND I gotta do more work. Eesh. Very intriguing tho.

Does anyone have a spike assembly out of their machine by any chance? I need measurements of the washer assembly. It's this piece pictured below minus the spikes. I've bought all of the parts to build the two spike assemblies except for the washer assembly. It is nowhere to be found. Looks like I'll have to have two made, but I need the measurements. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Anyone have mirror blades on their TOTAN?

The only sideblades out there I do like and look great on the machine. I wish there was another option, maybe more genie centric instead of just matching the backwall.

Mirror blades seem to be the only other option. Just wondering and wanting to see them.

I have mirror blades and I rather like them! The high ramps and the skill shot mostly cover them, but they do brighten the playfield a bit.

Not installed yet.
Black Friday purchase, I need to get on that project.

I have mirror blades on my Totan and I think they look great.
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They look great with all your chrome treatment.

Tell me more about the purple lights around the scoop area...

Love how your machine looks!

Mirrors look great! I have the blades that match the back wall too, which are consistent. I have some brass on mine and mirrors would really make it pop. Add these to the list!

I put gold mirror blades on mine. I think they're worth the extra $ and they really "warm up" the playfield.

The photo makes the game look brighter than it really appears in person BTW.

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Anyone in need of an amazing topper

Mod - For Sale

TALES OF THE ARABIAN NIGHTS SWORD TOPPER V2 Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “Up for sale is a One of a kind custom-made Topper to add that extra wow factor to your Tales of the Arabian Nights Pinball machine. I was not satisfied with the toppers I found on ...”

2022-01-21

Walnut Creek, CA

Soulrider911

349 (OBO)

Archived after: 37 days

Viewed: 617 times

Status: Not sold

Man I was looking into gold side blades. Would be perfect! But man... $300! Sheesh. I think that is much too rich for my blood.

Real gold!?

https://www.pinballdecals.com/MirrorBladesPage.html

Ok, $250.

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Yep, same here. I was looking at them for my TOTAN too. $250 from Pinball Decals and $300 from Cointaker. I’m not sure how they compare in terms of quality. The last pair of standard mirrors I received from Pinball Decals were excellent. Cointaker is usually awesome too.

I wouldn't put them on a game that is worth $3000 - $4000 or so, but TOTAN is not in that class.

Owning a TOTAN is like walking into a fine steak house. You could order the side blade "burger", but if you're in the mood for prime rib, now is the time.
Treat yourself. Treat your pin. You both deserve it.

So my Lock upkicker is super slow to retract. It upkicks just fine, but it is really slow going back down. Occasionally that will mess up the game, but it hasn't done that in a long time. What it does is usually delays the 3rd ball in multiball. Sometimes to the point that I have to shake the machine in hopes of speeding it up. Sometimes that ball just sits there on the other side of the upkicker. That sucks.

It has gotten better but it's still a problem.

When I move it with my hand it moves freely. And I don't see or feel any binding.

Any thoughts on this? All help / advice is appreciated.

I assume you are referring to the UP KICKER described on Page 2-21 in the manual? If so, it's either ON or OFF electrically, and it sounds like it turns off fine, just doesn't retract very fast.... so I suspect you'll find the issue is pure mechanical (don't chase any wiring or drivers, etc). The mechanical is pretty simple, a coil, a sleeve, a spring and a plunger. The plunger is probably fine, since it's just a stick of metal. Could be the spring is missing or damaged? Easy enough to test with your finger. So that leaves the coil form and the sleeve... both of which are made of plastic. (putting the coil wiring aside). So I suspect that the coil form or the sleeve has warped over the years, and now making smooth travel a bit strained... likely due to overheating at some point. Refer to part #7 or #8 in the manual. Easy to swap them both if needed, but a quick disaassembly and a few seconds eyeballing the plunger travelling in the sleeve when installed in the coil will give you an idea of next step.

Wow! Great info thank you. And said in language I can understand! I appreciate that and I will be looking into it in the next couple of days.

Sounds easy enough. Better than chasing wires! Thanks again!

IMG_20220125_195842_01 (resized).jpgSo, if you don't know you're a lucky one.... But...

We TOTAN owners know all too well that the right ball guide plastic breaks bc they designed the drop with pure stupidity. It just the sling plastic then cracks the guide plastic then SNAP. And now your ball jumps the ball guide and either gets stuck like I have pictured or straight jumps it and drains. What a crock!

After checking if stern outlanes with the wire would fit... And looking everywhere for the actual plastic (with zero luck bc they are all out of stock bc they break so often....), And thinking about it a bit... A light bulb went off today and I said to myself "self, just make the wire"

So I did.

At first I used 9 gauge brass which looked amazing! I had the first one I tried fitting nicely! But I tweaked it once too much and the loop snapped.

2 + hours and 7 dead brass soldiers later I was down to one steel piece of wire I had left.

Heated it up red hot for the whole process. Bent it carefully. Snugged it in. And VOILA! My very own guide wireform.

Haven't played it yet but it's solid and should do the trick.

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excellent idea on the wire. I installed a skinny purple post years ago (screwed into the plastic guide) just above the drop and has worked flawlessly

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This is genius! And undoubtedly 100% easier! Hahaha

So I got all the stuff to start a pretty extensive (for me) overhaul.

Already did the lights so that's done. Finally found a twist socket that worked for the one I was missing. Also got bright rings for the pops. Going in tonight.

Now for all new clear star posts, all new purple titan rubbers, all new clear plastic protectors, and a NOS plastic over the scoop. Pretty much everything will have to come off so I can put all the new things on. Excited and anxious about it all.

Also getting the scoop welded as the one tab has broken which is what caused the plastic to break in the first place.

Hoping I can do it nice and smooth in a day or 2. Can't wait til she's up and running again.

I'll try to remember to take and post pictures as this thread is lacking and hope they will be helpful to someone later on.

Any advice from you experienced guys is appreciated!

I tore down a Totan last year to replace the ramps. Replacing the ramps takes some real patience, but replacing the scoop is easy. Remember that the coil part of the scoop assembly is a separate bracket piece from the scoop itself. Take some close-up pictures of the two brackets fitted together before you remove it. Also, when you re-assemble, you may need to reposition the coil bracket otherwise the ball may eject crooked and come out of the scoop SDTM.