Non-Modder Approved 
(Topic ID: 97143)
Linked Games
Tales of the Arabian Nights
Williams, 1996
Topic Gallery
Quoted from EStroh:Hey, I made a thing!
6 color changing/fading LED's within a pot of colored jewels. Guarded by a cobra.
My apologies to the non-moders out there.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
A tip of the hat Sir. Nicely done
Walnut Creek, CA
Quoted from whthrs166:[quoted image]
Just wanted to know what was under that Bazaar Cliffy. Looks like just a very small bit of chipping of the clear coat on the edge. I'll take It!
Your scoop is missing…..
Quoted from Green-Machine:Your scoop is missing…..
Thats It! I knew something was wrong…
Quoted from whthrs166:[quoted image]
Just wanted to know what was under that Bazaar Cliffy. Looks like just a very small bit of chipping of the clear coat on the edge. I'll take It!
Are you leaving the Cliffy off? I bought one for mine, but it wouldn’t allow balls to eject after I installed it. Too tight. Even bending the scoop hood upward didn’t help. So I took it out. I put mylar around the scoop instead.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Are you leaving the Cliffy off?
No, I put it back on. It is just the Cliffy not the Mantice. Mantice is great, but it does make that Bazaar shot harder. If your going to play it, you need some kind of protection.
Quoted from whthrs166:No I put it back on. It is just the Cliffy not the Mantice. Mantice is great, but it does make that Bazaar shot harder. If your going to play it you need some kind of protection.
Mine isn’t the Mantis either, it was just the Cliffy. It still wouldn’t fit a ball after install. But my playfield is a CPR reproduction. The scoop hole may simply be too small. I even installed 2 different scoops to see if that fixed it. No luck.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Mine isn’t the Mantis either, it was just the Cliffy. It still wouldn’t fit a ball after install. But my playfield is a CPR reproduction. The scoop hole may simply be too small. I even installed 2 different scoops to see if that fixed it. No luck.
Interesting! I had a CPR pf in my last TOTAN but I used a pf protector on that game instead of a Cliffy. You are probably better off without the Cliffy anyway. We don't play these games like they were played on location.
Quoted from whthrs166:Interesting! I had a CPR pf in my last TOTAN but I used a pf protector on that game instead of a Cliffy. You are probably better off without the Cliffy anyway. We don't play these games like they were played on location.
That’s for sure. I probably average only about 50-75 plays a year on each of my pins, although the first year I tend to play them a little more. So although I install Cliffy protectors on most of them, I may not need to.
2 weeks later
Just finished up my TOTAN restore.
My original intent was to get the armor brass plated, but Chris @ pinballplating.com was out of most items, so I grabbed what I could and opted to go the powder coating route instead. Most gold / brass powder coat looks nothing like brass plating, so I went with a color called Grecian Gold Vein. It looks similar to the powder coat on the Hobbit, but a little lighter in color.
For the decals I went with Radcals, because I loved the ones I got for my Indiana Jones restoration. Unfortunately the color on these decals are not nearly as nice. The black seems to be too light in color. I noticed it when I was putting the decals on, but figured it was the protective film. When I pulled the film off, I noticed the color didn't change much. I'm still deciding whether I want to redo the decals, but for now I'll just live with it. If you're planning on doing new decals, I would recommend using something else.
The original playfield was in decent condition, but a previous owner put a giant screw through the playfield near the center, and it was a real eyesore, so I decided to go with CPR reproduction playfield and gave the old one to a friend for some wall art. The CPR playfield was pretty nice, except the dimples on the bottom of the playfield were worthless. I think maybe 4 or 5 dimples ended up being accurate. The others were WAY off. Luckily the topside holes were mostly accurate.
Overall, I really like how it turned out, minus the RadCals.
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Quoted from DeeGor:Just finished up my TOTAN restore.
My original intent was to get the armor brass plated, but Chris @ pinballplating.com was out of most items, so I grabbed what I could and opted to go the powder coating route instead. Most gold / brass powder coat looks nothing like brass plating, so I went with a color called Grecian Gold Vein. It looks similar to the
Looks great! Nice job
Quoted from DeeGor:My original intent was to get the armor brass plated, but Chris @ pinballplating.com was out of most items, so I grabbed what I could and opted to go the powder coating route instead.
How did you refinish the apron?
Quoted from SuperMica:How did you refinish the apron?
The previous owner installed the apron. I'm not sure where he purchased it from.
Quoted from DeeGor:Just finished up my TOTAN restore.
My original intent was to get the armor brass plated, but Chris @ pinballplating.com was out of most items, so I grabbed what I could and opted to go the powder coating route instead. Most gold / brass powder coat looks nothing like brass plating, so I went with a color called Grecian Gold Vein. It looks similar to the powder coat on the Hobbit, but a little lighter in color.
For the decals I went with Radcals, because I loved the ones I got for my Indiana Jones restoration. Unfortunately the color on these decals are not nearly as nice. The black seems to be too light in color. I noticed it when I was putting the decals on, but figured it was the protective film. When I pulled the film off, I noticed the color didn't change much. I'm still deciding whether I want to redo the decals, but for now I'll just live with it. If you're planning on doing new decals, I would recommend using something else.
The original playfield was in decent condition, but a previous owner put a giant screw through the playfield near the center, and it was a real eyesore, so I decided to go with CPR reproduction playfield and gave the old one to a friend for some wall art. The CPR playfield was pretty nice, except the dimples on the bottom of the playfield were worthless. I think maybe 4 or 5 dimples ended up being accurate. The others were WAY off. Luckily the topside holes were mostly accurate.
Overall, I really like how it turned out, minus the RadCals.
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Super nice ! 
Quoted from SuperMica:How did you refinish the apron?
I did refinish a TOTAN appron once:
You can use a paint stripper and then sandblast the existing anodized surface to get the original screened black and red lines and scroll-work off, then you can prime with a metal etch primer, followed by two-three coats of gold spray from Krylon (I used Krylon Fusion Metallic Gold, but you could try Rustoleum Hammered Brown, which is really gold, and might match the rest of the powder coatings if you do so), then 2 coats of clearoat. Bake the whole thing in your oven at 180-degrees for 4 hours. Then you can hit up TREASURE COVE for a TOTAN die-cut decal for the apron (about $60), which is applied using contact/release material. The decal is die cut, so every line is cut and the whole thing applies without extra clear material reducing the 'factory' look at the end.
This has probably been well document but I don't hate how my lamp turned out with this paint. I just need to give it a darker aged look. I may go around the recessed spots with something darker and wipe off the excess. What do you guys think?
PXL_20210930_004109530 (resized).jpgPXL_20210930_004349300 (resized).jpgQuoted from Hougie:This has probably been well document but I don't hate how my lamp turned out with this paint. I just need to give it a darker aged look. I may go around the recessed spots with something darker and wipe off the excess. What do you guys think?
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Wiping an acrylic dark brown on and wiping most of it off leaving dark residuals in the crevices will definitely antique it. Maybe put a clear coat on after to seal the deal 
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Quoted from Hougie:This has probably been well document but I don't hate how my lamp turned out with this paint. I just need to give it a darker aged look. I may go around the recessed spots with something darker and wipe off the excess. What do you guys think?
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Looks good to me. Maybe a clear coat?
Quoted from thechakapakuni:Looks good to me. Maybe a clear coat?
I think it looks fine too.
Quoted from Hougie:This has probably been well document but I don't hate how my lamp turned out with this paint. I just need to give it a darker aged look. I may go around the recessed spots with something darker and wipe off the excess. What do you guys think?
The LAMP is a tough gimmick to refurb. In it's factory state, it always seems to beg for a refresh, but when you decide to apply paint to it, it always seems like you have to make a choice what 'feel' you want to leave it in, original, shiny or antiqued. I struggled with this exact choice, and ended up leaving it alone. In the end, less is better IMHO, and any shade of gold probably works fine, but remember it is 6-inches away from the skill shot bracket, which if you have refinished, might work to tie in, and then the apron is also an area that commonly gets refinished, in some shade of gold. I don't think there is any 'best' answer, just your taste.
Also note, PPS has the lamp spinning disk in red, purple and clear, which may influence/compliment your choice above. And lastly, if you are in the spinning disk area doing work, make sure you change the bulbs under the disk which are many times forgotten for years, but changes the look of the lamp as well.
Quoted from Markharris2000:The LAMP is a tough gimmick to refurb. In it's factory state, it always seems to beg for a refresh, but when you decide to apply paint to it, it always seems like you have to make a choice what 'feel' you want to leave it in, original, shiny or antiqued. I struggled with this exact choice, and ended up leaving it alone. In the end, less is better IMHO, and any shade of gold probably works fine, but remember it is 6-inches away from the skill shot bracket, which if you have refinished, might work to tie in, and then the apron is also an area that commonly gets refinished, in some shade of gold. I don't think there is any 'best' answer, just your taste.
Also note, PPS has the lamp spinning disk in red, purple and clear, which may influence/compliment your choice above. And lastly, if you are in the spinning disk area doing work, make sure you change the bulbs under the disk which are many times forgotten for years, but changes the look of the lamp as well.
I like how this paint reflects light when it spins. It's definitely better with the room lights off. I want to tame it a bit but retain some of the shine/reflection. I think I will try wiping a little acrylic paint on to give it an aged look.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Pinkitten:Trying something a little different from the original art. I need to trim the bottom yet, but it’s fun to change it up.
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As someone who's created a few custom translites... be prepared for a few negative comments about how the original should never be changed.
A suggestion though... you might want to remove the stars that are somehow shining though the portion of the moon that is in shadow
Quoted from EStroh:As someone who's created a few custom translites... be prepared for a few negative comments about how the original should never be changed.
A suggestion though... you might want to remove the stars that are somehow shining though the portion of the moon that is in shadow
Maybe that moon is a half halo? 
Quoted from Pinkitten:Trying something a little different from the original art. I need to trim the bottom yet, but it’s fun to change it up.
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WAY too plain 
Quoted from EStroh:be prepared for a few negative comments about how the original should never be changed.
No worries, it’s just on my machine, so nobody else has to embrace it. Plus, I still have the original, and I’m sure at times I’ll use it again. It’s easy enough to swap them out, to try something different.
Just tuned up my pin, lot of flashers out. Couple questions. What are you using LED-wise to replace wedge #906 flasher bulbs?
On a separate topic, I was in the Scheherazade mode and at one point the lady genie is on the screen with a short countdown. What is the countdown for?
Quoted from thechakapakuni:Just tuned up my pin, lot of flashers out. Couple questions. What are you using LED-wise to replace wedge #906 flasher bulbs?
On a separate topic, I was in the Scheherazade mode and at one point the lady genie is on the screen with a short countdown. What is the countdown for?
Scheherazade is the only timed mode. If you can hit all five Golden Symbol shots and collect the jewel in 40(?) seconds, you can earn a 1M point bonus. If the timer runs out before all five shots are completed, the ramp will light and you can collect the jewel for whatever value you accumulated.
Quoted from TopMoose:Scheherazade is the only timed mode. If you can hit all five Golden Symbol shots and collect the jewel in 40(?) seconds, you can earn a 1M point bonus. If the timer runs out before all five shots are completed, the ramp will light and you can collect the jewel for whatever value you accumulated.
Ah damn. Good to know. This game keeps revealing small little mysteries. It’s playing perfect now so spending a bit more time on it. I may even try to get the “Bazaar Cow” now
3159A2CF-43AE-45D1-9D6C-A5505647DFE9 (resized).pngQuestion for you all. I’ve got my TOTAN tip top and all shots are quick esp tiger loop. The only area that drags is this exit here. When the ball comes down that it slows down to a crawl and drops out even with a good waxing. Not sure if this is normal intended just seemed odd considering everything is super fast. How are your exits out of that chute? Fast, slow?
044F4D22-66B9-4D9F-9A12-C82B5254C866 (resized).jpegQuoted from TopMoose:Scheherazade is the only timed mode. If you can hit all five Golden Symbol shots and collect the jewel in 40(?) seconds, you can earn a 1M point bonus. If the timer runs out before all five shots are completed, the ramp will light and you can collect the jewel for whatever value you accumulated.
I notice the ramp lights up after just hitting 1 of the shots. Also as you hit a shot it doesn’t unlight. So I’m guess you mentally need to keep track of the shots right? Also is there a display showing the 1MIl bonus? I thought I got it but didn’t see any screen
Quoted from thechakapakuni:I notice the ramp lights up after just hitting 1 of the shots. Also as you hit a shot it doesn’t unlight. So I’m guess you mentally need to keep track of the shots right? Also is there a display showing the 1MIl bonus? I thought I got it but didn’t see any screen
Correct. After you hit the first shot, you can cash out and collect the jewel (hence the ramp lighting). The best strategy, if you’re going for the 1M bonus, is to hit the ramp last. This will count as the “star” shot and collect the jewel at the same time. Or you can hit the ramp first, then the other four shots and then the ramp again to collect, but that’s one more shot to make in 40 seconds.
During the mode, you can hit the same shots over and over, to increase the jewel value, even though that doesn’t help you towards the bonus. That’s why the golden symbol lights don’t stop flashing until the timer runs out.
You’ll notice that when you hit one of the shots, the Genie names a symbol associated with that shot. From left to right it’s Sun, Moon, Star, Daggar and Lightning Bolt. You can see each of those symbols in the artwork on each golden symbol insert. You’ll also see those same symbols on the blue bonus inserts in the same order, from bottom to top. During the mode, when you hit a shot, its corresponding symbol on the bonus ladder will start flashing, which is how you keep track of the shots you need.
When you do complete the mode within the time limit, you’ll hear a short trumpet fanfare and the DMD will show “1 Million Bonus!” (Or something similar, it’s been a while for me). It’s very quick and sometimes doesn’t show at all if a higher-priority graphic comes up.
Porters Lake, NS
Quoted from Birdnest:I think you might have the correct one - here is mine
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Can you post more pics of your Totan? I’m looking at using that same finish on my restore and would love to see it. Do you know what color it is? It looks similar to Addams gold topcoat over ink black. Looks great with brass bits as a contrast.
Quoted from ulmpharmd:Also..where is everyone getting the best quality cab decals for restores?
I went with Radcals on mine and I really like how they turned out. New decals would look awesome too. I haven’t tried decals yet.
7A1BD5FA-FD1C-463E-A8B9-87BBB42B704B (resized).jpegAC452568-6286-4A77-9001-43B0436FD8C5 (resized).jpegECFB508B-67E9-4298-AD3D-46F9C79BF9CE (resized).jpegQuoted from ulmpharmd:Can you post more pics of your Totan? I’m looking at using that same finish on my restore and would love to see it. Do you know what color it is? It looks similar to Addams gold topcoat over ink black. Looks great with brass bits as a contrast.
I am very happy with the black and gold powder coating - Robert Stone did the coating and is black with gold flakes - the gold fleck shows up much better in person. The other plus is that fingerprints are less noticeable than chrome or brass. The inner pieces were done with a flat gold to match the apron but if I could do them over I would go brighter like Pinkkitten did. If you need better pics let me know and I can try later tonight.
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2 weeks later
Quoted from thechakapakuni:Non-Modder Approved
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Chaka you're in here too! Wonderful news! Good to see you outside of the jjp gnr thread!
Do you have a totan?
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